Hi All,

I figured some folks in here could probably chime in on their own personal experiences....

What I really want out of my car sound system is more hard-hitting (ie really feel a drum beat), versus that booming/rumbling feel I am quite familiar with when using my 8" sub currently..

What I'm wondering is, would I get more of this hard/solid bass if I swapped out the stock TL 8" sub with more of a standard 8" driver/woofer? (rather than a subwoofer)??

I already have my standalone 8" DVC sub in a box, so having two 8" subs in my trunk is probably overkill?

 

2 8's overkill? not at all.

That would probably be the best solution. or 2 10's in a low tuned ported box

 

But to get more of a rock-solid hard-hitting bass, would I be better replacing one of the 8" subs with an 8" mid-bass driver??

 

Is your front stage still stock? If so, address that first

 

^ This. If you fronts are stock, work on those first. That will help with bass from around 80hz and up. That's where you'll get that hit in your chest bass from. If that's still not enough, add another 8" sub for dual 8's or go with a single 12" or something.

 

Agreed with the others. And don't limit yourself on sub size. It's a myth that 10s are "tighter" or harder hitting than even 15s. The enclosure is going to determine it's characteristics more than anything else.

 

Nope, all upgraded! I did Infinity tweets and center speaker, and Infinity 73.9is in the doors.....such an improvement just from that!

But I think overall it's just the lack of available power, which I'll be taking care of once I install that amp for the fronts..

So I'll take everyone's advice on here and just stick with the two 8" subs as it is, and see how it all sounds once I get the new front amp in, and install the better amp in the rear..

 

Finish up the fronts. If you are running those off of stock amp, then they will be lackluster, at best.

Although it is a myth (academically) that drivers are slower, tighter, etc., actual speakers are manufactured to do certain things, so in practice a driver made for the low end could actually be slower and sloppier when used higher in the range. This is why a lot of people have issues with using 8-10" subs for midbass, whereas a 8-10" midbass driver would work very well. Even if a company could afford to make a perfectly flat driver from 30-20K hz, nobody could afford it, so we are left to pick the best-of-breed to meet our needs in different ranges and applications.

I run my 12 up in the range to 100hz to overlap the midbass in the door. I like the sound, but I have a 12 that will do very well from 30 to 120.

What kind of subs and amps do you have now?