New Setup Coming...Amp Location Ideas?
03-13-2012, 11:50 AM
#42
Touching the leads of the DMM on the terminals on the outside of the box gave me a reading of 3.5-3.6 ohms. Isn't that right? I mean the amp see's 2ohms, but they're DVC 4ohm subs
Hopefully everything looks okay...
On the very far right side I've got ground going in the left terminal and power in the right terminal. That's a new fuse too as I thought the fuse my have been bad that came with the amp.
Hopefully everything looks okay...
On the very far right side I've got ground going in the left terminal and power in the right terminal. That's a new fuse too as I thought the fuse my have been bad that came with the amp.
03-13-2012, 02:33 PM
#43
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Page 8 of the manual seems to indicate that you need to use all 4 of the output terminals, although that makes no sense to me. You could try running 2 + and 2 - to the speaker, even in series.
03-13-2012, 05:33 PM
#47
Might go plug the sub up to the p900.4 & see what happens. It's good for 200ish @ 2ohms, but I'll at least see if the sub is okay.
Guess I'll put this Audison up for sale. Anyone here interested? Might be a cheap ad easy fix for someone that knows what to do
Guess I'll put this Audison up for sale. Anyone here interested? Might be a cheap ad easy fix for someone that knows what to do
03-13-2012, 06:11 PM
#49
Yeah I figure it can't hurt. Going to just rip all the crap off the box for now b/c I'm sick of having to move everything constantly.
If the amp is in protect...any idea what I should ask for it?? They retail for $650+ here and there was one on DIYMA used for $400. Still texting the guy I purchased it from, but he said this didn't happen to him.....but who knows. People are shitty nowadays. Maybe he purchased it recently enough to have it warrantied
If the amp is in protect...any idea what I should ask for it?? They retail for $650+ here and there was one on DIYMA used for $400. Still texting the guy I purchased it from, but he said this didn't happen to him.....but who knows. People are shitty nowadays. Maybe he purchased it recently enough to have it warrantied
03-13-2012, 07:17 PM
#51
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Try wiring it the way that they have it in the manual.
Text that dood and ask him if he used all 4 output terminals, or just 2. The manual seems to indicate that you can only use two when you bridge/strap the amp. The unstrapped diagram appears to need to use all 4.
You could also try wiring outside to outside - this is the way that a lot of bridged amps roll (L+ and R- (usually)).
Again, I don't see how it could matter on a monoblock, but worth a try before you scrap it.
If it is broke, you can probably get it fixed by db-R for less than a hundred. It is a good amp and if he fixed it, I would consider it as good as new. That amp should be able to last you near a lifetime if you don't abuse it or blow it out.
Text that dood and ask him if he used all 4 output terminals, or just 2. The manual seems to indicate that you can only use two when you bridge/strap the amp. The unstrapped diagram appears to need to use all 4.
You could also try wiring outside to outside - this is the way that a lot of bridged amps roll (L+ and R- (usually)).
Again, I don't see how it could matter on a monoblock, but worth a try before you scrap it.
If it is broke, you can probably get it fixed by db-R for less than a hundred. It is a good amp and if he fixed it, I would consider it as good as new. That amp should be able to last you near a lifetime if you don't abuse it or blow it out.
03-13-2012, 07:19 PM
#52
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Next time, don't hide or mount anything until you get it all squared away and tuned. I have used bungie cords and rachet straps to hold stuff in place for a few weeks while I worked out kinks. 
The cargo net in the TL works great.
The cargo net in the TL works great.
03-13-2012, 08:05 PM
#53
Yeah I don't see why that would matter, but I asked him. I only had power, ground and remote in it and it was in protect. Shitty people on Craigslist..
He said it was under 6months old in his FS post, so maybe it's still under warranty
He said it was under 6months old in his FS post, so maybe it's still under warranty
03-13-2012, 08:46 PM
#55
Not sure how to go about this tomorrow when I call the place he bought it from. He said the shop "knows him" so I cant fake being him and change my address.
If I cant get it warrantied, there's a guy locally that says he fixes amps but no telling the quality of parts, craftsmanship, etc he has. Is that DB-r place the best and/or cheapest for amp repair??
If I cant get it warrantied, there's a guy locally that says he fixes amps but no telling the quality of parts, craftsmanship, etc he has. Is that DB-r place the best and/or cheapest for amp repair??
03-14-2012, 12:07 PM
#56
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Give that shop a shot. They might be cool if they "know him." ...or even show you some tricky stuff to get it to work.
I don't know about best or cheapest, but I have sent db-r a few amps and he has always been fair and the work was very good. I don't know if I have ever seen a bad review of his work.
His rep meant a lot to me since I was sending him some super-nice older stuff that would be hard to replace.
I don't know about best or cheapest, but I have sent db-r a few amps and he has always been fair and the work was very good. I don't know if I have ever seen a bad review of his work.
His rep meant a lot to me since I was sending him some super-nice older stuff that would be hard to replace.
03-14-2012, 01:43 PM
#57
That shop won't do shit. I'll either have to send it to Elletromedia (Audison) or DB-r, etc. Not sure how much this will cost, but I doubt it will be cheap.
Looks like I might have to reverse look up this guys phone number and pay him a visit. I'm sure a few hundred dollars worth of damage to his truck shouldn't be a problem..
Looks like I might have to reverse look up this guys phone number and pay him a visit. I'm sure a few hundred dollars worth of damage to his truck shouldn't be a problem..
03-14-2012, 06:13 PM
#61
Try wiring it the way that they have it in the manual.
Text that dood and ask him if he used all 4 output terminals, or just 2. The manual seems to indicate that you can only use two when you bridge/strap the amp. The unstrapped diagram appears to need to use all 4.
You could also try wiring outside to outside - this is the way that a lot of bridged amps roll (L+ and R- (usually)).
Again, I don't see how it could matter on a monoblock, but worth a try before you scrap it.
If it is broke, you can probably get it fixed by db-R for less than a hundred. It is a good amp and if he fixed it, I would consider it as good as new. That amp should be able to last you near a lifetime if you don't abuse it or blow it out.
Text that dood and ask him if he used all 4 output terminals, or just 2. The manual seems to indicate that you can only use two when you bridge/strap the amp. The unstrapped diagram appears to need to use all 4.
You could also try wiring outside to outside - this is the way that a lot of bridged amps roll (L+ and R- (usually)).
Again, I don't see how it could matter on a monoblock, but worth a try before you scrap it.
If it is broke, you can probably get it fixed by db-R for less than a hundred. It is a good amp and if he fixed it, I would consider it as good as new. That amp should be able to last you near a lifetime if you don't abuse it or blow it out.
Could I just daisy chain the positive input to the other positive input? Same with negative. Basically just a little 2" wire at the amp that makes both positives and both negatives hooked up...and then run the POS and NEG sub wires coming from the box to the amp in either of the 2 sets of terminals
The only thing is that it's in protect without any speaker wire even going in to the amp. Most amps won't go into protect if you don't have a sub or speakers plugged up ya know. Maybe Audison is different and I'll try it, but I'm not going to get my hopes up.
03-14-2012, 06:31 PM
#62
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Just run dual wires - 2 to each terminal that you have a wire run to now.
Some of the better amps need to sense a resistance before they will even turn on.
The diagram is on the Audison web page - find the amp, download the manual and go to page 8.
Probably a long shot, but worth a try. Try the outer terminals first. Perhaps it is puking looking for a resistance from L+ and R-.
Some of the better amps need to sense a resistance before they will even turn on.
The diagram is on the Audison web page - find the amp, download the manual and go to page 8.
Probably a long shot, but worth a try. Try the outer terminals first. Perhaps it is puking looking for a resistance from L+ and R-.
03-14-2012, 07:27 PM
#63
Just run dual wires - 2 to each terminal that you have a wire run to now.
Some of the better amps need to sense a resistance before they will even turn on.
The diagram is on the Audison web page - find the amp, download the manual and go to page 8.
Probably a long shot, but worth a try. Try the outer terminals first. Perhaps it is puking looking for a resistance from L+ and R-.
Some of the better amps need to sense a resistance before they will even turn on.
The diagram is on the Audison web page - find the amp, download the manual and go to page 8.
Probably a long shot, but worth a try. Try the outer terminals first. Perhaps it is puking looking for a resistance from L+ and R-.
03-17-2012, 07:05 PM
#66
Team Owner
I would be extremely pissed as well. PM sent on DIYMA. I'll send you a W6 and 1,000w class D Infinity sub amp to help out if you want.
03-17-2012, 07:30 PM
#67
I picked up Diamond D1000.1 locally for pretty cheap to have while I figure out wtf I'm going to do with the Audison.
I sent you a PM back on DIYMA
I don't know if they archive the PM's on there, but I've gotten so many from multiple people about stuff that I'm selling, etc that I only have like 5-6 PM's from that latter portion of me purchasing the IDmax. I did make that thread on there, which should add validity to the dates, etc.
Just got off the phone with SonicElectronix also because I'm having to ship back my P900.4 b/c of a stripped set screw and a large bump in the middle of the amp. I think something is messed up b/c it gets WAY to hot in a short period of time. That bump shouldn't be there..so I'm guessing that might be the culprit. Go figure...they're out of stock but said they're getting some in this upcoming week. I'm starting to think I'm not supposed to be in car audio!!
I sent you a PM back on DIYMA
I don't know if they archive the PM's on there, but I've gotten so many from multiple people about stuff that I'm selling, etc that I only have like 5-6 PM's from that latter portion of me purchasing the IDmax. I did make that thread on there, which should add validity to the dates, etc.
Just got off the phone with SonicElectronix also because I'm having to ship back my P900.4 b/c of a stripped set screw and a large bump in the middle of the amp. I think something is messed up b/c it gets WAY to hot in a short period of time. That bump shouldn't be there..so I'm guessing that might be the culprit. Go figure...they're out of stock but said they're getting some in this upcoming week. I'm starting to think I'm not supposed to be in car audio!!
03-18-2012, 02:52 PM
#68
Suzuka Master
seems like alot of scams on car audio equipment. I am looking on my local craigslist for deals, but this has got me a bit scurred
03-18-2012, 03:32 PM
#69
Usually I either make sure they're hooked up, test them on my own equipment, etc...but the one time I didn't check I get screwed. I wouldn't be scared about it. I just purchased a Diamond D1000.1 from a guy about 2 miles from me on Craigslist & it works perfectly. I'm sure I'll put it up FS once my Audison gets back, but still...just check em and you'll be okay.
03-20-2012, 01:28 PM
#70
Instructor
Wish I would have seen this thread earlier -- you might have gotten some ideas from my build. It's only about 80% finished, but I'll post a spoiler in a few. 
03-20-2012, 03:18 PM
#71
Instructor
false floor!
Basically a big piece of carpeted birch to mount all of the equipment, then some 3" risers and a new floor above that. Initially we were just going to raise the middle and taper them off to the sides but we decided to flatten everything out. Surprisingly didn't take long to build, but then again my installer was pretty handy with a saw. I screwed up on the carpet and got the wrong color but I don't care -- it's close enough.
PS -if you see water then take your interior liner out and run the hose on various entry points to see if you can isolate. Hopefully it's not a seal with the rear windshield...
Basically a big piece of carpeted birch to mount all of the equipment, then some 3" risers and a new floor above that. Initially we were just going to raise the middle and taper them off to the sides but we decided to flatten everything out. Surprisingly didn't take long to build, but then again my installer was pretty handy with a saw. I screwed up on the carpet and got the wrong color but I don't care -- it's close enough.
PS -if you see water then take your interior liner out and run the hose on various entry points to see if you can isolate. Hopefully it's not a seal with the rear windshield...
The following users liked this post:
UA6Momo (03-29-2012)
03-20-2012, 03:54 PM
#72
Got The Midas Touch
Wow first time on Azine in a little while and I see this post now that I'm starting to try and figure out a set up for my Avalon
. Now I'm reconsidering if I even want to jump into car audio again lol, and I have a chance bid going for an IDMax on ebay right now too lol
. Damn I knew I should have just left things alone.. good luck with your system hopefully things start getting better.
. Now I'm reconsidering if I even want to jump into car audio again lol, and I have a chance bid going for an IDMax on ebay right now too lol. Damn I knew I should have just left things alone.. good luck with your system hopefully things start getting better.
03-20-2012, 04:35 PM
#73
false floor!
Basically a big piece of carpeted birch to mount all of the equipment, then some 3" risers and a new floor above that. Initially we were just going to raise the middle and taper them off to the sides but we decided to flatten everything out. Surprisingly didn't take long to build, but then again my installer was pretty handy with a saw. I screwed up on the carpet and got the wrong color but I don't care -- it's close enough.
PS -if you see water then take your interior liner out and run the hose on various entry points to see if you can isolate. Hopefully it's not a seal with the rear windshield...
Basically a big piece of carpeted birch to mount all of the equipment, then some 3" risers and a new floor above that. Initially we were just going to raise the middle and taper them off to the sides but we decided to flatten everything out. Surprisingly didn't take long to build, but then again my installer was pretty handy with a saw. I screwed up on the carpet and got the wrong color but I don't care -- it's close enough.
PS -if you see water then take your interior liner out and run the hose on various entry points to see if you can isolate. Hopefully it's not a seal with the rear windshield...
Nice Masconi's btw!
Wow first time on Azine in a little while and I see this post now that I'm starting to try and figure out a set up for my Avalon. Now I'm reconsidering if I even want to jump into car audio again lol, and I have a chance bid going for an IDMax on ebay right now too lol. Damn I knew I should have just left things alone.. good luck with your system hopefully things start getting better.
. Now I'm reconsidering if I even want to jump into car audio again lol, and I have a chance bid going for an IDMax on ebay right now too lol. Damn I knew I should have just left things alone.. good luck with your system hopefully things start getting better.
03-21-2012, 09:14 AM
#74
As if I wasn't already annoyed with everything going on, my "D" light on the gauge cluster started to blink today on the way to work. A quick search on here reveals that it's some sort of code through the PCM (power control module) that can only be read at the dealership. This code blinks if there's a problem with the transmission....
you've gotta be kidding me! Guess I'll be calling 5-star Transmissions and telling them they can re-do my transmission
you've gotta be kidding me! Guess I'll be calling 5-star Transmissions and telling them they can re-do my transmission
03-21-2012, 09:33 AM
#75
Looks like I get to eat the cost for the dealership to read the code. $2500 for rebuilt transmission and it's still as shitty as when they put it on the tow truck. It's ridiculous.
IHC...what ATF and filter should I go with? I don't want to get too crazy and go with the racing ATF quite yet. Maybe ease into that. Hopefully I'll benefit from 3rd/4th switches and some Redline D4 or something....
IHC...what ATF and filter should I go with? I don't want to get too crazy and go with the racing ATF quite yet. Maybe ease into that. Hopefully I'll benefit from 3rd/4th switches and some Redline D4 or something....
03-21-2012, 10:30 AM
#76
Got The Midas Touch
Yeah, car audio can be a PITA, but I'm just having some really shitty luck. If you link the IDmax on here, I can have a look at it. BuickGN made a good point to me that my surround didn't stand as tall as normal, likely meaning a sagging spider, blown. I will say that the PPI phantom amps are pretty badass little guys. Tons of power for the price. Wish I would have just picked up the P1000.1 also, but now I have an Audison sr1dk that's broke and a Diamond d1000.1 lol.
Seller actually put real pics up finally I had to email him for the pics when the auction first started. I figured if it stays low the risk isn't too bad. I'll keep the PPI's in mind for a possible future install I definitely need a sub amp because even if I don't get the IDMax I have the IDQ still sitting waiting for an install.
As if I wasn't already annoyed with everything going on, my "D" light on the gauge cluster started to blink today on the way to work. A quick search on here reveals that it's some sort of code through the PCM (power control module) that can only be read at the dealership. This code blinks if there's a problem with the transmission....
you've gotta be kidding me! Guess I'll be calling 5-star Transmissions and telling them they can re-do my transmission
you've gotta be kidding me! Guess I'll be calling 5-star Transmissions and telling them they can re-do my transmission
03-21-2012, 02:21 PM
#77
Team Owner
Looks like I get to eat the cost for the dealership to read the code. $2500 for rebuilt transmission and it's still as shitty as when they put it on the tow truck. It's ridiculous.
IHC...what ATF and filter should I go with? I don't want to get too crazy and go with the racing ATF quite yet. Maybe ease into that. Hopefully I'll benefit from 3rd/4th switches and some Redline D4 or something....
IHC...what ATF and filter should I go with? I don't want to get too crazy and go with the racing ATF quite yet. Maybe ease into that. Hopefully I'll benefit from 3rd/4th switches and some Redline D4 or something....
If you've never done switches, they're way overdue. Every 2-3 years is about right. I would read the code first, it could be something very simple. Do you notice anything wrong with the way it drives?
03-21-2012, 02:57 PM
#78
Any DextronIII fluid will work. That includes Amsoil "ATF", Redline D4, or the cheap stuff at the auto parts store. Straight type F is what I recommend, especially for your first drain and fill since it will only be around 50% new fluid.
If you've never done switches, they're way overdue. Every 2-3 years is about right. I would read the code first, it could be something very simple. Do you notice anything wrong with the way it drives?
If you've never done switches, they're way overdue. Every 2-3 years is about right. I would read the code first, it could be something very simple. Do you notice anything wrong with the way it drives?
I know I personally have never done the switches, though I thought they would be smart enough to replace them when doing the rebuild. Seriously...the worst tranny shop I've ever heard of. He even admitted that he's seen those go out on Acura's/Honda's & still didn't replace them.
I'm going to order the switches and some ATF tomorrow most likely. It didn't flash at me at all on the drive home today and when it flashed in the morning I just shut it off at a stoplight, turned it back on and it went away (went solid). I'll use that $60+ that it will take to read the code at a dealership and put that towards the switches/ATF.
03-28-2012, 10:34 AM
#79
Wow...I'm kicking myself right now. Sold my Sundown 100.4 AND the Kenwood XR-4s I picked up. Now I'm left with a broken PPI p900.4 and it looks like it might be A LONG TIME until they get more in stock at SonicElectronix.
Still don't know what to do about the Audison and Fedex is picking up the blown IDmax for inspection or whatever today. Talk about bad luck...
SonicElectronix told me they'd have them in by last Monday or Tuesday, but still nothing...and now they're stating they have no clue when they'll get them. I purchased another to so they'd ship it out immediately. Nothing like purchasing 4 items (2 PPI's, IDmax, Audison) and not being able to use any of them. The PPI tech on DIYMA said it could be awhile so I might just go a different route.
Any thoughts or ideas??
Still don't know what to do about the Audison and Fedex is picking up the blown IDmax for inspection or whatever today. Talk about bad luck...
SonicElectronix told me they'd have them in by last Monday or Tuesday, but still nothing...and now they're stating they have no clue when they'll get them. I purchased another to so they'd ship it out immediately. Nothing like purchasing 4 items (2 PPI's, IDmax, Audison) and not being able to use any of them. The PPI tech on DIYMA said it could be awhile so I might just go a different route.
Any thoughts or ideas??
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