rapoM

I know I know wrong section! But the people over in the audio section are either non existent... or sleeping. I'm in a jam. 04 non navi tl with factory radio. Trying to hook up aftermarket amp and 1 sub. I'm going to use a line out rca inverter. My issue... I ASSumed that the factory rear center sub was DVC. When I pulled back the under trunk carpet I quickly realized it is not! Was going to get my left and right channel outputs from that source. But it's SVC. So now I figure I need to tap off of the left and right rear deck speakers.. my questions.. do they receive a full signal?!? Meaning not only mid or high.. but FULL.? Also.. seeing these wires are not accessible. Nor are thoes speakers. (Doing everything I can to avoid removing rear deck cover) where do these wires trace too? Any easy access points to get at these wires? I'm in a pickle/time crunch.. thanks!

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Svc, dvc, it doesn't matter. Take the OEM sub signal after the factory amp. Put in a hi low converter. Run it to your amp. Run new wiring from amp to sub. Done. And you still have OEM head unit sub control. Super simple

For the hi low converter twist both positives together and both negatives together and then connect them to the OEM wiring

rapoM

That does sound super simple. But I'm using a 2 channel amp that I'm going to bridge. And a dvc sub. Your way I believe would work.. however I'm not sure if I would receive full benefits of using true left and right? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I would LOVE to twist the wires together like you suggest. But again.. with a 2 channel amp.. I think it would not work correctly

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I don't know why you keep bringing up dvc. It doesn't matter. All that relates to is the power you'll see and the resistance the amp will see. It will only effect how you set your gain. My sub is dvc.

Have you done any audio installs before?

For bridging you use the positive of one channel and the negative of the other. Maybe I'm not understanding you or you're coming off different?

If you want true full signal, grab it from the front right and left pre factory amp. I'm really confused at what you're trying to achieve

PrimeTimeTSA

L & R dent matter with subs anyway

rapoM

[QUOTE=sockr1;15685511]I don't know why you keep bringing up dvc. It doesn't matter. All that relates to is the power you'll see and the resistance the amp will see. It will only effect how you set your gain. My sub is dvc.

Have you done any audio installs before?

For bridging you use the positive of one channel and the negative of the other. Maybe I'm not understanding you or you're coming off different?

Sorry.. I'm used to rebuilding engines and anything under the hood. (Honda mech) I don't do much electrical diagnostic... its not as common as most other automotive issues. + I don't have an acura tl etm on hand.. anyway.. I have done a ton of car audio. On all of the vehicles I've owned. Roughly 10 systems installed. This is just the first in a TL. The one I put in my (sold) 300 srt8 was a mother! The only speakers that received a full signal were the front door speakers. Of course it took me forever to figure that out.. but in this case. Here is what I have. A 2 channel amp and 1 dvc sub (correct it does not matter that my sub is dvc.) I plan on bridging the amp to the sub. So both left and right channels on the amp essentially combined together to power the sub. Which is wired down to 2ohm. In order to pull this off with Max efficiency (that I'm aware of) is by using a full frequency left and right outputs from the car to the aftermarket 2 channel (left-right) amp. You can use one side either left or right but then you can't bridge. You will only get half of the amps max output and you will be missing notes... we're not talking about that. But it is the use on the center sub output that is confusing me... I'm not sure how that works. Does the factory sub receive both left and right output?... I making this more difficult than it needs to be I know. .. on another note.. yo say use outputs from the FRONT l and r speakers?! BEFORE the amp.? I have 2 issues with this... 1. Why not use the rear left and right speakers because they are right where your at anyway with the sub/amp... and I'm thinking that the factory head unit only produces 0.2w. Which is not enough to excite an aftermarket amp... just bare with me here.. I'm good at over thinking.. and even better at making no sense (don't quote that lol) just looking for the easiest best outputs for my rca line inverter..

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

So how did you do it in the srt, looks like it's the same situation. Our front left and right are full signal.

Also you mention inverter. Do you mean hi lo converter (loc)? an inverter switches dc to ac.

The head signal is a low output like you said (but measured in amps not watts). but you could always use a line driver pre factory amp to get it where you need it for the new amp. Using a loc does the opposite if you take post stock amp since it takes a high output and puts it down to a level your amp can take. Either way you get there.

Someone else pointed out you trying to bridge to two ohms. I also think that's a very rare spec for an amp so make sure your amp can actually do that. Most amps are two ohm stable and bridge to 4 ohms

Please read this: http://community.crutchfield.com/car...s-load-bridged