Need help choosing Subwoofer please :D
#1
Need help choosing Subwoofer please :D
Hi guys,
A friend of mine just gave me his old Rockford Fosgate P3001 amplifier (2005 model if I'm not mistaken) (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...9&locale=en_US) because he decided to upgrade to some more powerful components. I know the amplifier is pretty small/weak, but I am just going to go ahead and use it with a 10in woofer. I have a 1farad RF cap as well. Question is though ... what 10in woofer should I use?
To be honest, the most important factors for me are (all somewhat on the same level):
1) Small size/mounting depth
2) Somewhat good power for reasonable price (bang for the buck)
3) Reliability
4) Brand name
Just to keep all of the components within the RF brand name, I've been looking at the RF R1S410 (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=.) I would assume keeping it within the same brand name would aide in compatibility/reliability, but I'm not TOO worried about that.
According to my understanding, it would be beneficial to look for a 2ohm woofer to maximize the capabilities of my amp, but I don't know where to even start looking ...
If someone could help this noob out, I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks a bunch in advance!
-John
A friend of mine just gave me his old Rockford Fosgate P3001 amplifier (2005 model if I'm not mistaken) (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...9&locale=en_US) because he decided to upgrade to some more powerful components. I know the amplifier is pretty small/weak, but I am just going to go ahead and use it with a 10in woofer. I have a 1farad RF cap as well. Question is though ... what 10in woofer should I use?
To be honest, the most important factors for me are (all somewhat on the same level):
1) Small size/mounting depth
2) Somewhat good power for reasonable price (bang for the buck)
3) Reliability
4) Brand name
Just to keep all of the components within the RF brand name, I've been looking at the RF R1S410 (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=.) I would assume keeping it within the same brand name would aide in compatibility/reliability, but I'm not TOO worried about that.
According to my understanding, it would be beneficial to look for a 2ohm woofer to maximize the capabilities of my amp, but I don't know where to even start looking ...
If someone could help this noob out, I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks a bunch in advance!
-John
#5
thanks for the suggestions guys!
Since I'm trying to keep it somewhat compact, would this be a good choice in the 2ohm option?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260402855442
Are any of the JL woofers available in 2ohms?
Since I'm trying to keep it somewhat compact, would this be a good choice in the 2ohm option?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260402855442
Are any of the JL woofers available in 2ohms?
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#8
Need to fix my Bike
#10
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
thanks for the suggestions guys!
Since I'm trying to keep it somewhat compact, would this be a good choice in the 2ohm option?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260402855442
Are any of the JL woofers available in 2ohms?
Since I'm trying to keep it somewhat compact, would this be a good choice in the 2ohm option?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260402855442
Are any of the JL woofers available in 2ohms?
the W7 requires a lot of mounting depth, but sounds awesome and is very heavy. It also feeds on good, clean power.
#13
Why do you guys say that? A lot of the people that sell audio equip on ebay have stores and most of the guys have like 2000 + ratings that mostly fall under the > 95% range...
#14
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
Before I had dealer accounts with manufacturers like JL Audio, Rockford and others I did buy some car audio product from ebay. I can tell you that I ended up getting burned too many times by ebay sellers. Lots of PayPal disputes. Totally was not worth the time or saving a few bucks.
Almost all of the bigger car audio manufacturers will not honor any warranty or even give technical support if their product was purchased on ebay. JL Audio and Diamond Audio post a huge disclaimer on page 1 of their sites. In my industry warranty and support are just as important as price and performance. Twat waffle.
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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As an ebay seller if you have over 2000 sales and a rating under 98% that is bad. Honestly a seller with that much traffic should not have a rating under 99.5% if they are worth a damn.
Before I had dealer accounts with manufacturers like JL Audio, Rockford and others I did buy some car audio product from ebay. I can tell you that I ended up getting burned too many times by ebay sellers. Lots of PayPal disputes. Totally was not worth the time or saving a few bucks.
Almost all of the bigger car audio manufacturers will not honor any warranty or even give technical support if their product was purchased on ebay. JL Audio and Diamond Audio post a huge disclaimer on page 1 of their sites. In my industry warranty and support are just as important as price and performance. Twat waffle.
Before I had dealer accounts with manufacturers like JL Audio, Rockford and others I did buy some car audio product from ebay. I can tell you that I ended up getting burned too many times by ebay sellers. Lots of PayPal disputes. Totally was not worth the time or saving a few bucks.
Almost all of the bigger car audio manufacturers will not honor any warranty or even give technical support if their product was purchased on ebay. JL Audio and Diamond Audio post a huge disclaimer on page 1 of their sites. In my industry warranty and support are just as important as price and performance. Twat waffle.
-Jason
#16
best bang for the buck, Elemental designs KV or OV series by far! KV being their base line still competes with an alpine type R. The OV series, competes with the JL W6, but half of the price.
ED just ran a special (not sure if there are any left) but I believe it was the 11ov2 (10" OV series) for $75 each.
ED just ran a special (not sure if there are any left) but I believe it was the 11ov2 (10" OV series) for $75 each.
#18
Back on topic, I'd go with RE, DLS, maybe even an Arc sub.
One last question - SQ or SPL? It's a 10" so I'm going to assume SQ, and if so, my aforementioned suggestions still stand
One last question - SQ or SPL? It's a 10" so I'm going to assume SQ, and if so, my aforementioned suggestions still stand
#19
Drifting
review
http://stereointegrity.com/forums/si...ws-mag-v4.html
another
http://stereointegrity.com/forums/si...v4-d2-wow.html
you could also look into the fi q, re xxx, re mx, rd alpha v.2, id max.
best bang for the buck, Elemental designs KV or OV series by far! KV being their base line still competes with an alpine type R. The OV series, competes with the JL W6, but half of the price.
ED just ran a special (not sure if there are any left) but I believe it was the 11ov2 (10" OV series) for $75 each.
ED just ran a special (not sure if there are any left) but I believe it was the 11ov2 (10" OV series) for $75 each.
You want a small box and have little power, so i'd recommend sq..
Don't get it mistaken, though..there are PLENTY of 8's and 10's that can stomp all over 12's and 15's as far as SPL goes..
#20
Safety Car
OP first thing u need to address is what type of system you want. SQ, loudspeaker or SPL. at that point you can make a descision which can really wouldnt be that hard. JL is a company I stand by and recommend to a lot of people who want either SQ or Loudspeaker designs..... the sound you get is only as good as the installers knowledge. so seek out a good one if you want SQ... when u start going spl you move to a diff level of things.....and the TL is not an SPL car lol.
Id go with the other guys... stay away from ebay, try to negotiate or find the dealer at which everyone is getting their stuff from...youll have better results with tech info n replacement if it breaks. Ebay is a headache unless you buying pens.
Id go with the other guys... stay away from ebay, try to negotiate or find the dealer at which everyone is getting their stuff from...youll have better results with tech info n replacement if it breaks. Ebay is a headache unless you buying pens.
#21
thank you to everyone for your awesome input! I got more of a response than I expected haha
^I'm leaning more toward sound quality as for now ... don't we all love democracy? sounds like JL is pretty darn good huh?
Also, do I need to hook up the cap at all? According to my understanding in physics, if I were to have the system on for a long drive, then a cap would be useful in providing a constant storage of energy ... right?
^I'm leaning more toward sound quality as for now ... don't we all love democracy? sounds like JL is pretty darn good huh?
Also, do I need to hook up the cap at all? According to my understanding in physics, if I were to have the system on for a long drive, then a cap would be useful in providing a constant storage of energy ... right?
#23
Safety Car
no cap. if theres an issue with power drain look into a better battery or an upgraded alternator.... caps I feel arent good enough because they need a lot of power to get charged n discharged constantly and rapidly.... get a 200amp solenoid and a cap if you really feel its needed. the solenoid has the power stored already so the car doesnt work as hard to power everything up and keep it powered.
#26
I'm actually using one of the no-weight braille batteries right now:
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b2317/
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b2317/
#27
With the exception of an Optima battery or something similar, I'm heavily poised against capacitors. Do your system and car a favor and upgrade the weakest link components - the wiring. Do the big 3, upgrade your amp power wire, and then see how much your system can wang.
Back to the question at hand - I'm biased towards extreme SQ. DLS is my current sub of choice. I've also enjoyed Arc and & Rainbow, and still run Rainbow components in my car today.
Back to the question at hand - I'm biased towards extreme SQ. DLS is my current sub of choice. I've also enjoyed Arc and & Rainbow, and still run Rainbow components in my car today.
#28
Safety Car
optima are ok batteries u can get the 1400kinetic which is a battery on steroids a deep cycle i prefer purple haze by exide (i think rockford fosgate produces them) ummm or braille they are good but again , u may have power loss issues depending on the size of it. if its normal sized or bigger then yea its good if its the smaller one youd need 2 lol. stinger makes a good 200amp solenoid but u can get it from any company they really are generic with a label on em. and yes the power cable makes a HUUUUUGE difference in power transfer. so make sure thats the correct gauge and use the same gauge for ground.
#30
Correct, yes I suppose so. But for audio, there's no harm in larger than needed power cables. The bigger, the better! Plus, if you ever want to upgrade, at least the headroom is available.
#31
Hey guys!
So, I've purchased a JL 10w1v2-4 a while ago after reading up on your recommendations as well as doing some other research online ... I've been using a Rockford Fosgate P3001 amplifier to power it for some time now, but I think I want to upgrade to a different amplifier ...
Questions are though ... will this be an upgrade at all in terms of sound quality?
If it is, what would you recommend it terms of good quality for a reasonable price? I hear good things from the Alpine PDX line ...
After doing some reading on bridging and channels and whatnot ... my understanding is that a 2-channel amp will have two sets of positive/negative terminals for basically either two speakers (left and right) or one svc sub to be bridged ... However, my RF p3001, which is supposedly a mono amp, has two sets of pos/neg terminals as well ... is this normal for a mono amp??? After looking up various pictures/diagrams ... it seems only RF mono amps have two sets of terminals while other mono amps only have one ...
@_____@ the confusion
Another question I had though my amplifier has two sets of neg/positive terminals-does this mean it's actually a 2-channel amplifier?
So, I've purchased a JL 10w1v2-4 a while ago after reading up on your recommendations as well as doing some other research online ... I've been using a Rockford Fosgate P3001 amplifier to power it for some time now, but I think I want to upgrade to a different amplifier ...
Questions are though ... will this be an upgrade at all in terms of sound quality?
If it is, what would you recommend it terms of good quality for a reasonable price? I hear good things from the Alpine PDX line ...
After doing some reading on bridging and channels and whatnot ... my understanding is that a 2-channel amp will have two sets of positive/negative terminals for basically either two speakers (left and right) or one svc sub to be bridged ... However, my RF p3001, which is supposedly a mono amp, has two sets of pos/neg terminals as well ... is this normal for a mono amp??? After looking up various pictures/diagrams ... it seems only RF mono amps have two sets of terminals while other mono amps only have one ...
@_____@ the confusion
Another question I had though my amplifier has two sets of neg/positive terminals-does this mean it's actually a 2-channel amplifier?
#33
Hmmmm might be ... I'm using some random sealed enclosure for the moment ... what would you recommend?
also to what frequency should it be tuned to?
Found this on the JL website: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15
also to what frequency should it be tuned to?
Found this on the JL website: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15
Last edited by crzygosu87; 03-07-2010 at 02:11 AM.
#37
Hey guys,
So after much time researching on the net, asking different people (I’d like to especially thank eggyhustle, ihatecars, princelybug and kingofpain for all of their help! You guys are awesome!) and actually listening to different components, I have purchased the items below for some decent audio upgrades:
Image Dynamics CTX65CS components (front speakers)
Alpine PDX 4.100
JL 10w1v2, 4ohm, SVC subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M500 amplifier
I actually have the subwoofer and monoblock amplifier set up in the car right now, so I purchased a “Stinger SPD570 Car Audio Power and Ground Distribution Block” as well so I won’t have to run another set of power/ground lines. In wiring the subwoofer, I thought it was fairly simple having done it only for the second time in my life … now comes the problem though.
I understand that I can use the distribution block for the power and ground, which is great. However, what can I do with the RCA inputs in order to lead them to the second amplifier as well, designated for the speakers? Also, for the remote line, would I be able to simply t-tap it to the remote line that is already currently connected to my subwoofer amp?
As for wiring the speakers themselves, I think I understand what the crossovers are there for, but how do I go about wiring those? Also, if I want to power my rear stock speakers with my PDX amplifier as well, do I just tap some wires into the existing stock wires and hook them up to two of the channels of the amplifier (for left and right rear)?
I think those are all that I’m stuck on for the moment, so thank you in advance! Hopefully all this time, effort, sweat and money will all be worth it in the end!
So after much time researching on the net, asking different people (I’d like to especially thank eggyhustle, ihatecars, princelybug and kingofpain for all of their help! You guys are awesome!) and actually listening to different components, I have purchased the items below for some decent audio upgrades:
Image Dynamics CTX65CS components (front speakers)
Alpine PDX 4.100
JL 10w1v2, 4ohm, SVC subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M500 amplifier
I actually have the subwoofer and monoblock amplifier set up in the car right now, so I purchased a “Stinger SPD570 Car Audio Power and Ground Distribution Block” as well so I won’t have to run another set of power/ground lines. In wiring the subwoofer, I thought it was fairly simple having done it only for the second time in my life … now comes the problem though.
I understand that I can use the distribution block for the power and ground, which is great. However, what can I do with the RCA inputs in order to lead them to the second amplifier as well, designated for the speakers? Also, for the remote line, would I be able to simply t-tap it to the remote line that is already currently connected to my subwoofer amp?
As for wiring the speakers themselves, I think I understand what the crossovers are there for, but how do I go about wiring those? Also, if I want to power my rear stock speakers with my PDX amplifier as well, do I just tap some wires into the existing stock wires and hook them up to two of the channels of the amplifier (for left and right rear)?
I think those are all that I’m stuck on for the moment, so thank you in advance! Hopefully all this time, effort, sweat and money will all be worth it in the end!
#38
Safety Car
when your done wiring power.....add a 2 or 0 gauge ground cable to the battery the chassis, so you have a good return loop and no dimming or parasite resistance building on your battery terminals.