Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

So I've got a problem and I've found out it's got to do with the 3sixty.2 I have. This is the 3rd time it's happened, once a few months ago and it happened twice today. I made it happen the 2nd time so I could figure out what was doing it. Anyways, I'm getting a LOUD pop randomly through my mids and subs. I assume if this pop was not high enough frequency-wise to get to my tweets it would have popped them, but it just popped the mids and the subs (subs were off when I did this test to find out what it was).

On the 3sixty.2, I can move or jiggle the wires that go into the (Ground/Power/Remote) plug. The little green plug. If those move, I get a loud pop. The bluetooth light is was off and my system didn't work after the first pop. I jiggled the wires in that plug and it made the pop again & bluetooth light came on. I'm not sure if the plug is not seating correctly and it's coming loose...or if the wires going into the plug are touching or something. It seems to be a big problem with these about this plug not fitting securely. Can anyone help me that has had this problem or knows a remedy to this?? I don't know if I need to seat the plug better or if its a problem with my wires touching (I don't think it's this but I don't know)

This is not turn-on or turn-off pop. Both times this has happened I've been driving

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Maybe try using a bigger gauge wires going into that plug. Loose connections will definately cause pops with the a 3sixty.2 and a bitone.1. I am using both units.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I will try that. I'm going to strip a little more wire and fold it back on itself to take up a little more room in there. I think I figured out another problem too. I got to wondering...why is my plug green when the speaker plug is black. Looked at RF's site and both of theirs are black. I think the guy must have replaced it. When I open the side of the 360.2 that has that plug on it, I can see that the feet on the plug are JUST short of catching. That's likely another problem. I searched a few places today for Phoenix plugs but didn't find them. I'll likely just do what I said and possibly glue the plug in there lol. Ghetto...but better than ruining stuff. Bout some zip-ties too to go around the unit and plug. I dont want that happening again!

Thanks for the insight! Maybe one of these days I'll be able to sit back and enjoy my setup

I hate cars

I would still get the correct plug. That thing coming loose can cause all kinds of problems including blown tweeters if you're running active.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Jus go directly to Rockford and get another plug that's the correct plug. How do u like using the 3sixty.2 so far?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm going to give RF a call tomorrow and have them send me the correct one. There's a guy on DIYMA that shipping me out one (for free!), though I'm not sure if it's the standard one that goes in it or just a spare he has. Either way..nice gesture.

The 3sixty.2 so far has been okay I guess. I can't blame this plug issue on it b/c that's not how it came from RF ya know. My problem with it now is that it want's to boost AND cut random frequencies on the EQ. It's very weird. I'll flatten the right mid, go to the left mid and flatten it...then go back to the right mid and it will raise 100hz by 6db and lower 80hz by 4db, etc. Just random. It hasn't started doing it until I used the RCA inputs. Once I get a new plug in there, make sure the wire is good and tight and wire up the new RCA plugs I got, I'll likely run another OEM setup.

Matt - I know you were interested in that 2 channel speaker level to RCA adapter I posted in my other thread, but I thought I'd let ya know that at Home Depot they have a pair of RCA's for $3. Less wire where you can just wire them straight up and into the amp/processor.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053

They look like crap in the pic but they're actually pretty nice. Glossy black. Not cheap cheap plastic either

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Are you setting it up the right way? you are only going to use the high levels if you are hooking it up directly out of the factory amp, you shouldn't have any input rca's, jus output rca's going directly to the amp? I've never had that problem man.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

The factory pre-amp signal is low-level though correct. And my amp doesn't accept balanced

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

These caps are going in today...just to be careful . 25uF/250V

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Factory amp goes thru the high level side buddy.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I had them running into speaker level plug into the processor but everyone told me to do it through RCA's. How come everyone runs RCA's into their 360 or MS-8?? Now I've got another conflicting idea about whether it should be in the speaker plug or through RCA's

Either way, I just want to figure out which way is correct. I was getting a turn off pop when using high-level input. Tried both jumper settings and it popped both ways. It doesn't do it (or at least I can't hear it) when using low-level (RCA) inputs

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

High level inputs come from the factory amp. If you are running an aftermarket heAdunit that's when u go with the low level inputs. If u run the software setup it will say the same thing I believe.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I just know that I had my FR/FL into the high-level (speaker plug) input of the 360. I got a slight turn off pop in my mids and I was told by a few on here to do the RCA inputs on the 360. I know speaker level is "speaker wire" basically, but isn't it usually a higher voltage signal. Our pre-amp signal is something like 0.2v I hear. I could use the post-amp, but I'd have to run more than just FL/FR into the 360 to get a full range signal to work with. It would be a stronger signal post-amp, but people claim it's not as good. I dunno...I just want it to be correct and I'm hearing a lot of conflicting things. Everyday seems like I'm getting a little bit closer to just calling it quits and running a simple 2-way passive component set and a single sub w/ an amp that accepts balanced. Aggravating

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any advice?? I need to know whether to use the high-level plug or wire up RCA's. Our pre-amp is so low it's not the usual "high-level" voltage and I'm wondering if that's why people are wiring up RCA's

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

I believe u can do both. You can run post amp to the high level side of the 3.62 or u can run low levels with rcas preamp. I think u may have to run a line driver with the low levels if u are going this route.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I can still get the 360.2 to show the clip light when running RCA's pre-amp so hopefully I wouldn't need a line driver. I think IHC is using a line driver with his ms8

I hate cars

It sucks to hear of these problems. If you ever want to trade processors for a while let me know. I'm in the market for a different processor and just starting to weigh my options again.

Nick, that was the Bit One software we looked at when you were over here, right? My only catch is I need 7 channels minimum. Sold the passives to help fund the Esotar 430s.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Is the ms-8 more complicated to set up? As far as inputs, do you have to run every channel into it if you only doing fronts and the sub? Ive always assumed the ms-8 is more like an Auto processor, in which it does the tune for you. Does it still allow you to set the x-over points and slopes you like or what?? I've thought about picking up one bc I just don't know or have time to learn to EQ properly.

I hate cars

If you go pre-amp, you only have to use the front left and front right. If you go post amp you have to do front left, right, and sub.

On the output side you assign each output a channel for example the way mine is set up is:

1- FL Hi
2- FR Hi
3- FL Mid
4- FR Mid
5- FL Lo (midbass)
6- FR Lo
7- Blank also used for center when I run a center.
8- Sub

It's just simple channel assignment so it knows what's what.

You get to choose crossover points and slopes.

Once you choose the outputs and crossovers you do the auto tune. Once it's tuned you still have the 31 band EQ, traditional tone controls, level controls (sub, left-right, and front-rear), Logic 7 on or off and a few other adjustments.

It's pretty neat. The sub control isn't a simple level control. If you boost the sub, it will also boost the bottom end of your midbass to keep the sub up front.

Some of the downsides are if you want to change crossover ponits or slope you have to do a complete retune. It's not a big deal and it's actually the correct way of doing things but it takes an extra minute or two. Right now if I reset to factory defaults I can set it up, do a calibration, and have music playing in about 3 minutes. The calibration itself takes about 1 minute per seat. You can do all 4 seats which will let you select which passenger gets the ideal TA or you can select "front" or "all" which will give the best compromise for all passengers.

The reasons I'm looking for a different processor is I like to adjust and mess with things and it doesn't give me enough to play with. It can also make midbass a little thin but I've gotten pretty good at tricking it. There's also a software patch that's coming out to fix the problem.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

That is correct matt. The bit one.1 has eight output channels. Not sure if u would to run a 3sixty because u only got 6 channels until the 3.63 comes out whenever that will be. Tried to get your address from u so I can send a copy of iT to u.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

That sounds pretty nice actually. I've been reading Binkinpunk or whatever's review of the MS-8, along with a few other people and everyone seems to really like it. They say it does a great job at doing phase, TA, keeping bass up front, etc. I've always wanted to try the MS-8 to see what it will do and kinda see what I'm "shooting for", but I never had the money to afford it. I haven't heard too many nice setups to really know what I'm after, plus...being a senior in college and working also I just don't have much time. Along with finding what seems to be a new problem every week lol .

If you were wanting to try something new, I'd be all for trading for a bit with you...obviously. I would likely be getting the better end of the trade, though it's not a permanent trade..you know what I mean. 3sixty.2 is only 6-channels like Nick stated. It's tiny and works great though. Does what I tell it to lol. I've always had the idea of picking up an MS-8 in the back of my mind, just to figure out how I like the auto calibration and figure out what I'm supposed to be hearing. You think tuning is hard?? Try doing it w/o knowing what you're supposed to be going for

I haven't read up much on the Bit.1 either. Is that essentially the same as the MS-8? I assume it's better...but I dunno

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Each is better in their own way. I have never an will probably never use the ms8 so I can't vouch for it. The bit one is like a super 3.62. Software is pretty similar between the two jus more channels an more options. Gives u a chance to do 3way active plus a sub. I find the load setup and sAve setps are a lot faster on the bit one. The bteone requires a USB cable connection to use the program as the 3 sixty uses Bluetooth. I am not in any way shape or form bashing the 3 sixty. I started out with a 3sixty2 then upgraded to a bit one. As of now I still have the 3sixtytwo just controlling my sub. Both are great products. Jus couldn't expand the use of the 3sixty anymore.

On another note I tried using two 3sixty simultaneously. It worked for a while jus didn't like the fact that u could only tune one unit at a time. The beauty of both units to me was that you can mute each individual speaker during the tuning process to see how they would perform.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

8 channels would be much nicer. I've wanted to do active 3 way. I think I'd rather purchase a long USB cable from Monoprice and do it that way anyways. The bluetooth is hit or miss on these units. I know a bunch of people have had problems with theirs. With my palm device to control it, It wont reach from the drivers seat, but my laptop will work fine up there. To make adjustments on the fly you have to be in the backseat or trunk with that Palm. I'm sure the Audison is all around nicer too. Noise floor, etc.

I really would like to try the MS-8. Quite a few people that have been in the game for awhile on DIYMA says it does the calibration very well. To the level of what it takes a good tuner a month or 2 to do. I'd be down for that lol

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Try out the ms8 to see if u like it or not. From tuners thAt have used all three units in my area they along with me would recommend the bit one.1. If your a beginner the auto tune will be great. But if u know how exactly you want a certain speaker to sound go with the bit one.

On Another note I don't like the fact that u can never get the same tune twice from the auto tune. If u like it on the bit one save it an u can loadit again

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Can't you save like 5 tunes on the MS-8?

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Let's get matt to chime in on this one. The bit one u can save four.

I hate cars

You can save 5 of your favorite settings such as EQ, levels, etc but you can't save a calibration. This is another thing I don't like about it. I have found over all this time that you can get the calibrations pretty consistent as long as you have your speakers playing in their optimal range. When I tried to play my dome mids too low I got all kinds or weird tunes. Rasing the crossover points helped with consistency.

Andy W over at JBL said there is not enough memory to save a calibration. Apparently there are a ton of filters applied to deal with reflections.

I wish I hadn't sold my extra Massive SK-6 center channel, I would have included it with the MS8 since it can take advantage of the center. Having a 6.5" in there really helps.

The MS8 gives you a good idea of what a good system should sound like especially if you can get the midbass issue resolved. The competition ones I've heard are overall better than the MS8. Or I should say at least in my car the stage is not as focused as it can be. Not bad but sometimes I have vocals coming from 3 spots on the dash instead of one.

I keep attending meets as a reminder of what I'm shooting for. Each time I go I find someone that's significantly better on one area. I'm very happy with my Dyns, they just have such a neutral life-like sound and that's why it's so frustrating to not be able to get the stage perfect which is another reason I'm thinking of swapping processors. The big problem is it will probably take me months of tuning to get where the MS8 is already at.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Well matt. I think curiosity will kill the cat. Time to take the dive into it an find out. I'm waiting to hear it the next time I come

jda123

Maybe it is my age, but my next car will get a nice set of 3-ways and I will use the crossovers on them (KRX3, or so quality, for me). The juice of having the processer is probably not worth the squeeze for me anymore... and the crossovers on these nicer sets are pretty decent.

I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.

It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.

I hate cars

There are many times I've wished I had just left the passives in there. They sounded great that way. Now sometimes it sounds a tiny bit better, many times they sound worse. The only consistent improvement is the stage height but not width or anything else. Problem is I sold them for $90 and they cost $300 new.

I agree with the starting crossover points as well. That's what I did. The funny thing is I tried all sorts of points over time and I've ended up very close to the factory points again.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

I will have to completely agree, my next car I will do the same also. But all in all I had to have one completely baddass system. Alot of people are intimidated with my system in its design and whenever they see the bitone.1 software they are then very intimidated. Next time I put a system in it will be jus the crossovers and speakers, alot less headaches and alot less time to put into it.

On another note, my current system was worth all the hassle and headache, it wouldn't trade it for anything, but would i be willing to do it in another one of my personal vehicles, probably not.

JDA123 I never got any pictures yet of your utopia's. You seen mines already and i wanna see how your setup came out buddy. I sure bet it sounds great.

I hate cars

Hey Nick, definitely. Let me know when you will be here. Maybe I'll actually wash my car if I know you're coming. With the Esotars on the floor unprotected I'm too afraid to take it to a carwash and haven't had time to make grills so it's been almost 2 months since it's been washed.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'm right there with you all. My next setup will just use passives and I'll spend the money from the processor to upgrade fronts. Music should be enjoyable and it's just not for me lately. I need to find an MS-8 and take my RK6's out. Someone already purchased them but it wont stop raining so I can remove them

I hate cars

If you haven't got one by the time I get mine out, you can either try it out for a couple months and/or buy it very cheap.

I totally agree about the music sometimes not being enjoyable. Sometimes I get too caught up in the mechanics and trying to get a perfect sound stage rather than just enjoying the music. I remember thats what I loved about my Dyns when I first installed them on the passives. I was enjoying the music for the first time in years and forgetting about the system.

What are you planning on upgrading the fronts to? Theres a Dyn 362 set for $700 for sale right now if you feel like making an 8" fit. I promise it will be the last component upgrade you will ever do.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that set is pretty good at making me click it lol. I've looked at it like every time I'm over there. It's a bit much for me right now though. I say that, but I also say that speakers are one of those things that can be transferred so it's not like it's only for this car. I like my car no doubt, but the dash cracking, 117K miles, and a few small eye sores make me just . I just need to have it detailed and do a little body work but again...that cost money. Hopefully once I graduate it'll be back to mint condition.

I've been eyeballin the SilverFlute 8" and that FatialPro 8" too, along with that Dyn set. I think some 8's in the door would be sick and I think we have the ability to do it. The RK6's are literally just short of 3" and they fit with my 1/2 to 3/4" baffle (can't tell b/c it's a routered baffle). I'll be putting in the cx62 mids tomorrow. The tweeters seem a tad brighter than the Massive CT2 tweeters, surprisingly. I never got fatigue when listening to those CT2 tweeters. I haven't had enough listening time to the xs28 tweets though, so I can't pass judgement.

But yeah, let me know first when you take that MS-8 out. I'll pick it or trade with ya. It's more up my alley for the moment. You ever get that 800hz cancellation or peak in your car figured out?? Was it the dome midrange or what??

eggyhustles

I used the Fatial Pro 8's

LOVEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD THEM.

I'll never ever go back to conventional car audio speakers. Pro audio ftw

I hate cars

I really like the pro audio concept as well. Lots of cone area and efficiency... The sound of the IB15s remind me a lot of the pro audio sound but they have much more low end and excursion. Up top, very close.

I hate cars

The only reason I didn't go with 8s was it looked like you might have to modify the door panel itself. I had plenty midbass with my original Dyn162 6" but I upgraded to the 650 to gain a little more excursion and midrange since I was not ready to put in the work for the 8s. For a 3-way sometimes I wish I had gone with the 8" from the beginning even though I have plenty output in the 80-650hz range they're playing right now. The cancellation seems to go away by changing the midrange crossover points.