Major 3sixty.2 Problem
#1
Major 3sixty.2 Problem
So I've got a problem and I've found out it's got to do with the 3sixty.2 I have. This is the 3rd time it's happened, once a few months ago and it happened twice today. I made it happen the 2nd time so I could figure out what was doing it. Anyways, I'm getting a LOUD pop randomly through my mids and subs. I assume if this pop was not high enough frequency-wise to get to my tweets it would have popped them, but it just popped the mids and the subs (subs were off when I did this test to find out what it was).
On the 3sixty.2, I can move or jiggle the wires that go into the (Ground/Power/Remote) plug. The little green plug. If those move, I get a loud pop. The bluetooth light is was off and my system didn't work after the first pop. I jiggled the wires in that plug and it made the pop again & bluetooth light came on. I'm not sure if the plug is not seating correctly and it's coming loose...or if the wires going into the plug are touching or something. It seems to be a big problem with these about this plug not fitting securely. Can anyone help me that has had this problem or knows a remedy to this?? I don't know if I need to seat the plug better or if its a problem with my wires touching (I don't think it's this but I don't know)
This is not turn-on or turn-off pop. Both times this has happened I've been driving
On the 3sixty.2, I can move or jiggle the wires that go into the (Ground/Power/Remote) plug. The little green plug. If those move, I get a loud pop. The bluetooth light is was off and my system didn't work after the first pop. I jiggled the wires in that plug and it made the pop again & bluetooth light came on. I'm not sure if the plug is not seating correctly and it's coming loose...or if the wires going into the plug are touching or something. It seems to be a big problem with these about this plug not fitting securely. Can anyone help me that has had this problem or knows a remedy to this?? I don't know if I need to seat the plug better or if its a problem with my wires touching (I don't think it's this but I don't know)
This is not turn-on or turn-off pop. Both times this has happened I've been driving
#3
I will try that. I'm going to strip a little more wire and fold it back on itself to take up a little more room in there. I think I figured out another problem too. I got to wondering...why is my plug green when the speaker plug is black. Looked at RF's site and both of theirs are black. I think the guy must have replaced it. When I open the side of the 360.2 that has that plug on it, I can see that the feet on the plug are JUST short of catching. That's likely another problem. I searched a few places today for Phoenix plugs but didn't find them. I'll likely just do what I said and possibly glue the plug in there lol. Ghetto...but better than ruining stuff. Bout some zip-ties too to go around the unit and plug. I dont want that happening again!
Thanks for the insight! Maybe one of these days I'll be able to sit back and enjoy my setup
Thanks for the insight! Maybe one of these days I'll be able to sit back and enjoy my setup
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Nick337 (11-29-2011)
#4
Team Owner
I would still get the correct plug. That thing coming loose can cause all kinds of problems including blown tweeters if you're running active.
#6
The 3sixty.2 so far has been okay I guess. I can't blame this plug issue on it b/c that's not how it came from RF ya know. My problem with it now is that it want's to boost AND cut random frequencies on the EQ. It's very weird. I'll flatten the right mid, go to the left mid and flatten it...then go back to the right mid and it will raise 100hz by 6db and lower 80hz by 4db, etc. Just random. It hasn't started doing it until I used the RCA inputs. Once I get a new plug in there, make sure the wire is good and tight and wire up the new RCA plugs I got, I'll likely run another OEM setup.
Matt - I know you were interested in that 2 channel speaker level to RCA adapter I posted in my other thread, but I thought I'd let ya know that at Home Depot they have a pair of RCA's for $3. Less wire where you can just wire them straight up and into the amp/processor.
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053
They look like crap in the pic but they're actually pretty nice. Glossy black. Not cheap cheap plastic either
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#11
I had them running into speaker level plug into the processor but everyone told me to do it through RCA's. How come everyone runs RCA's into their 360 or MS-8?? Now I've got another conflicting idea about whether it should be in the speaker plug or through RCA's
Either way, I just want to figure out which way is correct. I was getting a turn off pop when using high-level input. Tried both jumper settings and it popped both ways. It doesn't do it (or at least I can't hear it) when using low-level (RCA) inputs
Either way, I just want to figure out which way is correct. I was getting a turn off pop when using high-level input. Tried both jumper settings and it popped both ways. It doesn't do it (or at least I can't hear it) when using low-level (RCA) inputs
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 11-30-2011 at 04:06 PM.
#13
I just know that I had my FR/FL into the high-level (speaker plug) input of the 360. I got a slight turn off pop in my mids and I was told by a few on here to do the RCA inputs on the 360. I know speaker level is "speaker wire" basically, but isn't it usually a higher voltage signal. Our pre-amp signal is something like 0.2v I hear. I could use the post-amp, but I'd have to run more than just FL/FR into the 360 to get a full range signal to work with. It would be a stronger signal post-amp, but people claim it's not as good. I dunno...I just want it to be correct and I'm hearing a lot of conflicting things. Everyday seems like I'm getting a little bit closer to just calling it quits and running a simple 2-way passive component set and a single sub w/ an amp that accepts balanced. Aggravating
#17
Team Owner
It sucks to hear of these problems. If you ever want to trade processors for a while let me know. I'm in the market for a different processor and just starting to weigh my options again.
Nick, that was the Bit One software we looked at when you were over here, right? My only catch is I need 7 channels minimum. Sold the passives to help fund the Esotar 430s.
Nick, that was the Bit One software we looked at when you were over here, right? My only catch is I need 7 channels minimum. Sold the passives to help fund the Esotar 430s.
#18
Is the ms-8 more complicated to set up? As far as inputs, do you have to run every channel into it if you only doing fronts and the sub? Ive always assumed the ms-8 is more like an Auto processor, in which it does the tune for you. Does it still allow you to set the x-over points and slopes you like or what?? I've thought about picking up one bc I just don't know or have time to learn to EQ properly.
#19
Team Owner
Is the ms-8 more complicated to set up? As far as inputs, do you have to run every channel into it if you only doing fronts and the sub? Ive always assumed the ms-8 is more like an Auto processor, in which it does the tune for you. Does it still allow you to set the x-over points and slopes you like or what?? I've thought about picking up one bc I just don't know or have time to learn to EQ properly.
On the output side you assign each output a channel for example the way mine is set up is:
1- FL Hi
2- FR Hi
3- FL Mid
4- FR Mid
5- FL Lo (midbass)
6- FR Lo
7- Blank also used for center when I run a center.
8- Sub
It's just simple channel assignment so it knows what's what.
You get to choose crossover points and slopes.
Once you choose the outputs and crossovers you do the auto tune. Once it's tuned you still have the 31 band EQ, traditional tone controls, level controls (sub, left-right, and front-rear), Logic 7 on or off and a few other adjustments.
It's pretty neat. The sub control isn't a simple level control. If you boost the sub, it will also boost the bottom end of your midbass to keep the sub up front.
Some of the downsides are if you want to change crossover ponits or slope you have to do a complete retune. It's not a big deal and it's actually the correct way of doing things but it takes an extra minute or two. Right now if I reset to factory defaults I can set it up, do a calibration, and have music playing in about 3 minutes. The calibration itself takes about 1 minute per seat. You can do all 4 seats which will let you select which passenger gets the ideal TA or you can select "front" or "all" which will give the best compromise for all passengers.
The reasons I'm looking for a different processor is I like to adjust and mess with things and it doesn't give me enough to play with. It can also make midbass a little thin but I've gotten pretty good at tricking it. There's also a software patch that's coming out to fix the problem.
#20
Pro
iTrader: (2)
It sucks to hear of these problems. If you ever want to trade processors for a while let me know. I'm in the market for a different processor and just starting to weigh my options again.
Nick, that was the Bit One software we looked at when you were over here, right? My only catch is I need 7 channels minimum. Sold the passives to help fund the Esotar 430s.
Nick, that was the Bit One software we looked at when you were over here, right? My only catch is I need 7 channels minimum. Sold the passives to help fund the Esotar 430s.
#21
If you go pre-amp, you only have to use the front left and front right. If you go post amp you have to do front left, right, and sub.
On the output side you assign each output a channel for example the way mine is set up is:
1- FL Hi
2- FR Hi
3- FL Mid
4- FR Mid
5- FL Lo (midbass)
6- FR Lo
7- Blank also used for center when I run a center.
8- Sub
It's just simple channel assignment so it knows what's what.
You get to choose crossover points and slopes.
Once you choose the outputs and crossovers you do the auto tune. Once it's tuned you still have the 31 band EQ, traditional tone controls, level controls (sub, left-right, and front-rear), Logic 7 on or off and a few other adjustments.
It's pretty neat. The sub control isn't a simple level control. If you boost the sub, it will also boost the bottom end of your midbass to keep the sub up front.
Some of the downsides are if you want to change crossover ponits or slope you have to do a complete retune. It's not a big deal and it's actually the correct way of doing things but it takes an extra minute or two. Right now if I reset to factory defaults I can set it up, do a calibration, and have music playing in about 3 minutes. The calibration itself takes about 1 minute per seat. You can do all 4 seats which will let you select which passenger gets the ideal TA or you can select "front" or "all" which will give the best compromise for all passengers.
The reasons I'm looking for a different processor is I like to adjust and mess with things and it doesn't give me enough to play with. It can also make midbass a little thin but I've gotten pretty good at tricking it. There's also a software patch that's coming out to fix the problem.
On the output side you assign each output a channel for example the way mine is set up is:
1- FL Hi
2- FR Hi
3- FL Mid
4- FR Mid
5- FL Lo (midbass)
6- FR Lo
7- Blank also used for center when I run a center.
8- Sub
It's just simple channel assignment so it knows what's what.
You get to choose crossover points and slopes.
Once you choose the outputs and crossovers you do the auto tune. Once it's tuned you still have the 31 band EQ, traditional tone controls, level controls (sub, left-right, and front-rear), Logic 7 on or off and a few other adjustments.
It's pretty neat. The sub control isn't a simple level control. If you boost the sub, it will also boost the bottom end of your midbass to keep the sub up front.
Some of the downsides are if you want to change crossover ponits or slope you have to do a complete retune. It's not a big deal and it's actually the correct way of doing things but it takes an extra minute or two. Right now if I reset to factory defaults I can set it up, do a calibration, and have music playing in about 3 minutes. The calibration itself takes about 1 minute per seat. You can do all 4 seats which will let you select which passenger gets the ideal TA or you can select "front" or "all" which will give the best compromise for all passengers.
The reasons I'm looking for a different processor is I like to adjust and mess with things and it doesn't give me enough to play with. It can also make midbass a little thin but I've gotten pretty good at tricking it. There's also a software patch that's coming out to fix the problem.
If you were wanting to try something new, I'd be all for trading for a bit with you...obviously. I would likely be getting the better end of the trade, though it's not a permanent trade..you know what I mean. 3sixty.2 is only 6-channels like Nick stated. It's tiny and works great though. Does what I tell it to lol. I've always had the idea of picking up an MS-8 in the back of my mind, just to figure out how I like the auto calibration and figure out what I'm supposed to be hearing. You think tuning is hard?? Try doing it w/o knowing what you're supposed to be going for
I haven't read up much on the Bit.1 either. Is that essentially the same as the MS-8? I assume it's better...but I dunno
#22
Pro
iTrader: (2)
Each is better in their own way. I have never an will probably never use the ms8 so I can't vouch for it. The bit one is like a super 3.62. Software is pretty similar between the two jus more channels an more options. Gives u a chance to do 3way active plus a sub. I find the load setup and sAve setps are a lot faster on the bit one. The bteone requires a USB cable connection to use the program as the 3 sixty uses Bluetooth. I am not in any way shape or form bashing the 3 sixty. I started out with a 3sixty2 then upgraded to a bit one. As of now I still have the 3sixtytwo just controlling my sub. Both are great products. Jus couldn't expand the use of the 3sixty anymore.
On another note I tried using two 3sixty simultaneously. It worked for a while jus didn't like the fact that u could only tune one unit at a time. The beauty of both units to me was that you can mute each individual speaker during the tuning process to see how they would perform.
On another note I tried using two 3sixty simultaneously. It worked for a while jus didn't like the fact that u could only tune one unit at a time. The beauty of both units to me was that you can mute each individual speaker during the tuning process to see how they would perform.
#23
Each is better in their own way. I have never an will probably never use the ms8 so I can't vouch for it. The bit one is like a super 3.62. Software is pretty similar between the two jus more channels an more options. Gives u a chance to do 3way active plus a sub. I find the load setup and sAve setps are a lot faster on the bit one. The bteone requires a USB cable connection to use the program as the 3 sixty uses Bluetooth. I am not in any way shape or form bashing the 3 sixty. I started out with a 3sixty2 then upgraded to a bit one. As of now I still have the 3sixtytwo just controlling my sub. Both are great products. Jus couldn't expand the use of the 3sixty anymore.
On another note I tried using two 3sixty simultaneously. It worked for a while jus didn't like the fact that u could only tune one unit at a time. The beauty of both units to me was that you can mute each individual speaker during the tuning process to see how they would perform.
On another note I tried using two 3sixty simultaneously. It worked for a while jus didn't like the fact that u could only tune one unit at a time. The beauty of both units to me was that you can mute each individual speaker during the tuning process to see how they would perform.
I really would like to try the MS-8. Quite a few people that have been in the game for awhile on DIYMA says it does the calibration very well. To the level of what it takes a good tuner a month or 2 to do. I'd be down for that lol
#24
Pro
iTrader: (2)
Try out the ms8 to see if u like it or not. From tuners thAt have used all three units in my area they along with me would recommend the bit one.1. If your a beginner the auto tune will be great. But if u know how exactly you want a certain speaker to sound go with the bit one.
On Another note I don't like the fact that u can never get the same tune twice from the auto tune. If u like it on the bit one save it an u can loadit again
On Another note I don't like the fact that u can never get the same tune twice from the auto tune. If u like it on the bit one save it an u can loadit again
#27
Team Owner
You can save 5 of your favorite settings such as EQ, levels, etc but you can't save a calibration. This is another thing I don't like about it. I have found over all this time that you can get the calibrations pretty consistent as long as you have your speakers playing in their optimal range. When I tried to play my dome mids too low I got all kinds or weird tunes. Rasing the crossover points helped with consistency.
Andy W over at JBL said there is not enough memory to save a calibration. Apparently there are a ton of filters applied to deal with reflections.
I wish I hadn't sold my extra Massive SK-6 center channel, I would have included it with the MS8 since it can take advantage of the center. Having a 6.5" in there really helps.
The MS8 gives you a good idea of what a good system should sound like especially if you can get the midbass issue resolved. The competition ones I've heard are overall better than the MS8. Or I should say at least in my car the stage is not as focused as it can be. Not bad but sometimes I have vocals coming from 3 spots on the dash instead of one.
I keep attending meets as a reminder of what I'm shooting for. Each time I go I find someone that's significantly better on one area. I'm very happy with my Dyns, they just have such a neutral life-like sound and that's why it's so frustrating to not be able to get the stage perfect which is another reason I'm thinking of swapping processors. The big problem is it will probably take me months of tuning to get where the MS8 is already at.
Andy W over at JBL said there is not enough memory to save a calibration. Apparently there are a ton of filters applied to deal with reflections.
I wish I hadn't sold my extra Massive SK-6 center channel, I would have included it with the MS8 since it can take advantage of the center. Having a 6.5" in there really helps.
The MS8 gives you a good idea of what a good system should sound like especially if you can get the midbass issue resolved. The competition ones I've heard are overall better than the MS8. Or I should say at least in my car the stage is not as focused as it can be. Not bad but sometimes I have vocals coming from 3 spots on the dash instead of one.
I keep attending meets as a reminder of what I'm shooting for. Each time I go I find someone that's significantly better on one area. I'm very happy with my Dyns, they just have such a neutral life-like sound and that's why it's so frustrating to not be able to get the stage perfect which is another reason I'm thinking of swapping processors. The big problem is it will probably take me months of tuning to get where the MS8 is already at.
#28
Pro
iTrader: (2)
You can save 5 of your favorite settings such as EQ, levels, etc but you can't save a calibration. This is another thing I don't like about it. I have found over all this time that you can get the calibrations pretty consistent as long as you have your speakers playing in their optimal range. When I tried to play my dome mids too low I got all kinds or weird tunes. Rasing the crossover points helped with consistency.
Andy W over at JBL said there is not enough memory to save a calibration. Apparently there are a ton of filters applied to deal with reflections.
I wish I hadn't sold my extra Massive SK-6 center channel, I would have included it with the MS8 since it can take advantage of the center. Having a 6.5" in there really helps.
The MS8 gives you a good idea of what a good system should sound like especially if you can get the midbass issue resolved. The competition ones I've heard are overall better than the MS8. Or I should say at least in my car the stage is not as focused as it can be. Not bad but sometimes I have vocals coming from 3 spots on the dash instead of one.
I keep attending meets as a reminder of what I'm shooting for. Each time I go I find someone that's significantly better on one area. I'm very happy with my Dyns, they just have such a neutral life-like sound and that's why it's so frustrating to not be able to get the stage perfect which is another reason I'm thinking of swapping processors. The big problem is it will probably take me months of tuning to get where the MS8 is already at.
Andy W over at JBL said there is not enough memory to save a calibration. Apparently there are a ton of filters applied to deal with reflections.
I wish I hadn't sold my extra Massive SK-6 center channel, I would have included it with the MS8 since it can take advantage of the center. Having a 6.5" in there really helps.
The MS8 gives you a good idea of what a good system should sound like especially if you can get the midbass issue resolved. The competition ones I've heard are overall better than the MS8. Or I should say at least in my car the stage is not as focused as it can be. Not bad but sometimes I have vocals coming from 3 spots on the dash instead of one.
I keep attending meets as a reminder of what I'm shooting for. Each time I go I find someone that's significantly better on one area. I'm very happy with my Dyns, they just have such a neutral life-like sound and that's why it's so frustrating to not be able to get the stage perfect which is another reason I'm thinking of swapping processors. The big problem is it will probably take me months of tuning to get where the MS8 is already at.
#29
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Maybe it is my age, but my next car will get a nice set of 3-ways and I will use the crossovers on them (KRX3, or so quality, for me). The juice of having the processer is probably not worth the squeeze for me anymore... and the crossovers on these nicer sets are pretty decent.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
#30
Team Owner
Maybe it is my age, but my next car will get a nice set of 3-ways and I will use the crossovers on them (KRX3, or so quality, for me). The juice of having the processer is probably not worth the squeeze for me anymore... and the crossovers on these nicer sets are pretty decent.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
I agree with the starting crossover points as well. That's what I did. The funny thing is I tried all sorts of points over time and I've ended up very close to the factory points again.
#31
Pro
iTrader: (2)
Maybe it is my age, but my next car will get a nice set of 3-ways and I will use the crossovers on them (KRX3, or so quality, for me). The juice of having the processer is probably not worth the squeeze for me anymore... and the crossovers on these nicer sets are pretty decent.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
I have no complaints with the bitone.1. I would recommend it to anybody.
It is easy without autotune... set your unit to the crossover specs for the set and start from there. Then, adjust... it is probably pretty close if you imaged them correctly and the layout of the car is decently normal.
On another note, my current system was worth all the hassle and headache, it wouldn't trade it for anything, but would i be willing to do it in another one of my personal vehicles, probably not.
JDA123 I never got any pictures yet of your utopia's. You seen mines already and i wanna see how your setup came out buddy. I sure bet it sounds great.
Last edited by Nick337; 12-02-2011 at 08:01 PM.
#32
Team Owner
Hey Nick, definitely. Let me know when you will be here. Maybe I'll actually wash my car if I know you're coming. With the Esotars on the floor unprotected I'm too afraid to take it to a carwash and haven't had time to make grills so it's been almost 2 months since it's been washed.
#33
I'm right there with you all. My next setup will just use passives and I'll spend the money from the processor to upgrade fronts. Music should be enjoyable and it's just not for me lately. I need to find an MS-8 and take my RK6's out. Someone already purchased them but it wont stop raining so I can remove them
#34
Team Owner
I'm right there with you all. My next setup will just use passives and I'll spend the money from the processor to upgrade fronts. Music should be enjoyable and it's just not for me lately. I need to find an MS-8 and take my RK6's out. Someone already purchased them but it wont stop raining so I can remove them
I totally agree about the music sometimes not being enjoyable. Sometimes I get too caught up in the mechanics and trying to get a perfect sound stage rather than just enjoying the music. I remember thats what I loved about my Dyns when I first installed them on the passives. I was enjoying the music for the first time in years and forgetting about the system.
What are you planning on upgrading the fronts to? Theres a Dyn 362 set for $700 for sale right now if you feel like making an 8" fit. I promise it will be the last component upgrade you will ever do.
#35
If you haven't got one by the time I get mine out, you can either try it out for a couple months and/or buy it very cheap.
I totally agree about the music sometimes not being enjoyable. Sometimes I get too caught up in the mechanics and trying to get a perfect sound stage rather than just enjoying the music. I remember thats what I loved about my Dyns when I first installed them on the passives. I was enjoying the music for the first time in years and forgetting about the system.
What are you planning on upgrading the fronts to? Theres a Dyn 362 set for $700 for sale right now if you feel like making an 8" fit. I promise it will be the last component upgrade you will ever do.
I totally agree about the music sometimes not being enjoyable. Sometimes I get too caught up in the mechanics and trying to get a perfect sound stage rather than just enjoying the music. I remember thats what I loved about my Dyns when I first installed them on the passives. I was enjoying the music for the first time in years and forgetting about the system.
What are you planning on upgrading the fronts to? Theres a Dyn 362 set for $700 for sale right now if you feel like making an 8" fit. I promise it will be the last component upgrade you will ever do.
I've been eyeballin the SilverFlute 8" and that FatialPro 8" too, along with that Dyn set. I think some 8's in the door would be sick and I think we have the ability to do it. The RK6's are literally just short of 3" and they fit with my 1/2 to 3/4" baffle (can't tell b/c it's a routered baffle). I'll be putting in the cx62 mids tomorrow. The tweeters seem a tad brighter than the Massive CT2 tweeters, surprisingly. I never got fatigue when listening to those CT2 tweeters. I haven't had enough listening time to the xs28 tweets though, so I can't pass judgement.
But yeah, let me know first when you take that MS-8 out. I'll pick it or trade with ya. It's more up my alley for the moment. You ever get that 800hz cancellation or peak in your car figured out?? Was it the dome midrange or what??
#36
Drifting
I used the Fatial Pro 8's
LOVEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD THEM.
I'll never ever go back to conventional car audio speakers. Pro audio ftw
LOVEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD THEM.
I'll never ever go back to conventional car audio speakers. Pro audio ftw
#37
Team Owner
I really like the pro audio concept as well. Lots of cone area and efficiency... The sound of the IB15s remind me a lot of the pro audio sound but they have much more low end and excursion. Up top, very close.
#38
Team Owner
Yeah that set is pretty good at making me click it lol. I've looked at it like every time I'm over there. It's a bit much for me right now though. I say that, but I also say that speakers are one of those things that can be transferred so it's not like it's only for this car. I like my car no doubt, but the dash cracking, 117K miles, and a few small eye sores make me just . I just need to have it detailed and do a little body work but again...that cost money. Hopefully once I graduate it'll be back to mint condition.
I've been eyeballin the SilverFlute 8" and that FatialPro 8" too, along with that Dyn set. I think some 8's in the door would be sick and I think we have the ability to do it. The RK6's are literally just short of 3" and they fit with my 1/2 to 3/4" baffle (can't tell b/c it's a routered baffle). I'll be putting in the cx62 mids tomorrow. The tweeters seem a tad brighter than the Massive CT2 tweeters, surprisingly. I never got fatigue when listening to those CT2 tweeters. I haven't had enough listening time to the xs28 tweets though, so I can't pass judgement.
But yeah, let me know first when you take that MS-8 out. I'll pick it or trade with ya. It's more up my alley for the moment. You ever get that 800hz cancellation or peak in your car figured out?? Was it the dome midrange or what??
I've been eyeballin the SilverFlute 8" and that FatialPro 8" too, along with that Dyn set. I think some 8's in the door would be sick and I think we have the ability to do it. The RK6's are literally just short of 3" and they fit with my 1/2 to 3/4" baffle (can't tell b/c it's a routered baffle). I'll be putting in the cx62 mids tomorrow. The tweeters seem a tad brighter than the Massive CT2 tweeters, surprisingly. I never got fatigue when listening to those CT2 tweeters. I haven't had enough listening time to the xs28 tweets though, so I can't pass judgement.
But yeah, let me know first when you take that MS-8 out. I'll pick it or trade with ya. It's more up my alley for the moment. You ever get that 800hz cancellation or peak in your car figured out?? Was it the dome midrange or what??
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