Ok, another question. I am going to add aftermarket Amps, either Cadence FX 5100 or Cadence A2/A4.

After much research, I have decided to not go the seemingling super expensive route of a processor and stay with a more simple LOC and higher quality amps. Any recommendations on a LOC that will put out a high quality signal?

I know "Fade2Black" did a great review on processors, based off that review I was looking at a PG Tantrum or a Audio Control LC6. The PG has a higher SN ratio, and is cheaper.

I am probably going to retain the factory amp for the center channel, so I do not need a 6channel device - although if a good 6cH is out there, i would be more inclined to go with it.

 

I went with the Soundgate LOC (link) and am very pleased with it

 

that's great to hear that you are making good choices....

having better amps is always a +

do me a favor and forget the loc.

trust me on this one.....

with high end amplifier you will have a crossover build in.

bypass the factory amplifier and just run a cable from radio straigh into the amp. you will not regret this.....

or cut off ends of rca cables and sodder before factory amp......

you will be glad that you did this.

 

Fade-
So no LOC or anything?

Can you explain why this works?

So you are just running RCA's from the HU to the after market amp, does the HU have a place for the RCA's to go? Im also kind of fuzzy on where I am cutting an why.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Gary,

you do not have to cut unless you want to. what I did. I tapped into the wiring plug before factory amp.

look at your specs on your amplifier. before you actually do this. if you input sensetivity is low like 200mv or less you can tapp right into it.

reason to bypass.
you are intruding another device (loc) that will downgrade the audio signal. and more then likely will introduce noise. at least that's what it did for me when I tried it. you may have total diffrent results.

I removed the loc and when right into the amp for front, rear, center and sub.
take a look @ this thread
post 17 have some discription on how to....

and ask or pm I hate cars. I think he just tried it. see what he thinks about it.

 

sorry for not answering your question once again.

this works becouse our factory radio does have line out that feeds the factory amplifier.

I wished... No it does not. you will have to cut or tap into the factory plug.

you can find it in passenger kick panel or behind the radio itself. it is a lot easier to pull the kick pannel out and unplug the factory amp versus pulling half dash out to get to the back of the radio.

the line out is very low mv. and if your amps do in fact have low input then it should not be a problem at all.

like I said above, by not using loc. you will have better signal to noise ratio and will keep noise to minimum.

note: if you do decide to do this. please use good quality cables. try to get shielded one's. that will keep noise down even further.

also when running cables, when going over other factory cables try to put them in the plastic loom. this will keep noise away and not cross feed it from other devices like light's and power windows and such.

hope this answers a bit better.

 

just remember that if you have the factory navi system and/or use HFL, they won't work properly if you tap the wires before the factory amp. You will loose all HFL audio and the navigation system voice.

 

I really hate to disagree with Moderator, but have you actually tried this?

I have been running like this for quite some time, I have no isues with HFL. I use hfl daily no problems.

as far as the NAV goes it works, but does not mute rear channels fully. that does not bother me, I use rear for rear fill only you can barely hear it.

 

Ill talk to my install guy and see what we can do.

I am excited to get everything in , I decided to go with the following, CDT PSS 0626 (if they fit), CDT Coax for rear, Cadence FX5100 and Cadence 2 Ch for rear, w/ Diyma 12 Sub

It should have decent SQ....

 

I did this on another TL and the HFL was really crappy afterwards, you could barely hear anything through the center channel and the navi voice couldn't be heard over the music. I tapped after the factory amp and the aftermarket ones had the high level inputs so I used those.

 

I guess I am fortunate that my hfl works like it should.....

 

forget the LOC...and everything works flawlessly after completing this...

-Jason

 

This is the only "right" way to do it IMO. Quality is improved, the evil hiss is gone and I was able to turn the gains way up for much more volume and better sound.

I used the existing (aftermarket) speaker wire to tap into the head unit and kept the LOCs. I think the better way would be like Fade2Black said and soldier in the RCAs. This is probably what I'll end up doing but I have a bad habit of doing things and then redoing them again.

HFL and Navi work fine. It's a matter of adjusting the fade and center channels on the HU.

Again, a big thanks to Fade2Black. I wish I would've done this sooner.

 

glad it worked out for you bro...

 

Jason, thanks for chiming in....

hate to switch the subject but...... how are the door pannels coming out?

I/WE need more pics......

 

Ok, Im going make sure I have your steps correct for when I try to describe this:

1. Cut wires running into factory AMP

2. Take high quality sheilded RCA's, cut them, sodder them to cut wires running to HU. (Any suggestions for RCA's?)

3. Put plastic stuff around RCA's and connect to aftermarket amp.

Just to confirm, I should be able to hear the NAVI directions through audio system?

I dont ever use the HFL, so I dont even care about that.

 

no you do not have to. you can tap into them, and will make things lot easier if you ever decide to sell it.

no not really there are quite a good brands out there. just don't go to crazy, cause you can spend a lot of $$$ on some....


reason you may want to consider for this is to keep the noise out. this is what I used. they come in all kinds of sizes.


Yes you will here navi through front speakers. it will not mute the rears. if that bothers you, use fader to fade to the front.

it is actually neat. I love it and I use it all the time. perhaps one day you will use it and that will not be a proble.

 

i didnt even bother using LOC's... I just used a reall good shielded pair or rcas, cut the tips off of one side and soldering the + and - to the approriate wiring... works great.

 

wire loom is your friend good sir!

 

glad to hear that sir.