A Little Help Here...
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A Little Help Here...
So I figured I'd take today to try a new set of RCA's for my fronts that have that weird clicking/hissing until the volume gets above 4-5....yeah...didn't work.
I guess it's gotta be the amp...(PDX 4.100). I was getting close to the same weird sounds with the PPI Art but when I used the ground loop it went away. That amp doesn't have a x-over so I'd need an external or processor AND I'd still have to use the ground loop. WTF! is going on here!!!
ALSO...
My subs were wired into Yellow w/ Black (+) and Light Green w/ Red (-) which are post-amp. So I figured while I'm at it I might as well wire the sub into the pre-amp (should have done it when I removed the LOC but whatever). I wired the subs into Red w/ Blue (+) and White w/ Green (-), which are pre-amp...but I got nothing. To be honest, I removed them w/o looking at which was negative and which was positive as I don't remember since they are cut RCA's
. Would this have the affect of no signal or EXTREMELY weak signal?
If not, I took a few pics to show what I'm doing. Now that I keep looking, I think I might have taken the wrong ones...They were from the black connector all the way to the left in the picture. That right or no??

Wires I'm holding were taken from the black connector to the left

Edit: Yes I know it's nasty down there...I'm in the processes of cleaning it all up b/c the dumbass that had the car before me cut all the wires about 1" away from the connectors
I guess it's gotta be the amp...(PDX 4.100). I was getting close to the same weird sounds with the PPI Art but when I used the ground loop it went away. That amp doesn't have a x-over so I'd need an external or processor AND I'd still have to use the ground loop. WTF! is going on here!!!ALSO...
My subs were wired into Yellow w/ Black (+) and Light Green w/ Red (-) which are post-amp. So I figured while I'm at it I might as well wire the sub into the pre-amp (should have done it when I removed the LOC but whatever). I wired the subs into Red w/ Blue (+) and White w/ Green (-), which are pre-amp...but I got nothing. To be honest, I removed them w/o looking at which was negative and which was positive as I don't remember since they are cut RCA's

. Would this have the affect of no signal or EXTREMELY weak signal? If not, I took a few pics to show what I'm doing. Now that I keep looking, I think I might have taken the wrong ones...They were from the black connector all the way to the left in the picture. That right or no??

Wires I'm holding were taken from the black connector to the left

Edit: Yes I know it's nasty down there...I'm in the processes of cleaning it all up b/c the dumbass that had the car before me cut all the wires about 1" away from the connectors
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Ok, I switched my PDX switch to 0.1-0.8v and it came on but it's WAY quieter than when I had them wired up post-amp. Not sure what the deal is. Doesn't hit hard, lows don't seem to be there...could it be out of phase??
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Whoops..I thought I put this in my build thread..oh well. So I've got the gain 3/4 up and it sounds somewhat normal. Maybe a tad cleaner and that's why I'm thinking it sounds softer.
Still need help on wtf is up with my sound upon start up. Hiss can be heard after the initial sound goes away also. Think this might just be the dreaded PDX
Still need help on wtf is up with my sound upon start up. Hiss can be heard after the initial sound goes away also. Think this might just be the dreaded PDX
I actually tried running rca's spliced from the stock amp and got that horrible hissing noise . I heard splicing rca cables is bad (forgot what they said why it was bad?)
^ someone clarify about splicing RCA'a . I cant remember
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I had someone do the installation for me . But basically he ran and spliced speaker wires instead of rca cables to the LC8 (LOC) Then LC8's to the aftermarket amp with rca cables ....amp to speakers wt speaker wires .
I actually tried running rca's spliced from the stock amp and got that horrible hissing noise . I heard splicing rca cables is bad (forgot what they said why it was bad?)
^ someone clarify about splicing RCA'a . I cant remember
I actually tried running rca's spliced from the stock amp and got that horrible hissing noise . I heard splicing rca cables is bad (forgot what they said why it was bad?)
^ someone clarify about splicing RCA'a . I cant remember
No, I don't think I'm too fond of them. They are just a little too loud for me and the mids don't really starting punching until you turn them up...and by that time its just too loud. Just a bad x-over design is all that is. I heard they're fixing it with the new CK's. We'll see if I like the ID CXS's JDA is sending soon. If not, or even soon if my RK6's sell, I might buy some Hybrid Clarus/Imagine or Hertz HSK's.
No, I don't think I'm too fond of them. They are just a little too loud for me and the mids don't really starting punching until you turn them up...and by that time its just too loud. Just a bad x-over design is all that is. I heard they're fixing it with the new CK's. We'll see if I like the ID CXS's JDA is sending soon. If not, or even soon if my RK6's sell, I might buy some Hybrid Clarus/Imagine or Hertz HSK's.
I cut the heads off of RCAs, soldered and shrunk the connectors. Pre-amp all the way. I get white noise from my iSimple in the range of 1-2%, but none from the CD or Radio
Did you do your big 3? Ground is probably 75% of all noise issues.
The CXS are going out today. I dropped a LRx in there too so that you can see how different it is to run these things active, even if you don't have a processor... you can still control the crossover points and gains with just the amp.
Did you do your big 3? Ground is probably 75% of all noise issues.
The CXS are going out today. I dropped a LRx in there too so that you can see how different it is to run these things active, even if you don't have a processor... you can still control the crossover points and gains with just the amp.
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I just spliced speaker wire into them but I'm going into a line driver which accepts speaker wire so I'm not much help. The best way seems to be to splice the RCAs right into the pre-amp signal though.
yeah that's the way I did them. They still seem to have punch when I put my head near the ski-pass but they definitely don't hit as hard or go as low. I don't know wtf is going on. I moved the thing pre-amp, moved the amp "gain" to 0.1-0.8v and had to turn the gain up to 3/4's (used to be 1/2). This is all starting to piss me off lol
If you're going in that price range, you might as well include Dynaudio in your search. I've found a couple of the 2-way 242 sets fairly cheap plus Niebur3 can probably give you a good deal. Dyns are just awesome for what I want. They're not bright or dull, not muddy or punchy, they're just accurate and natural and incredibly detailed. The Dyns have revealed stuff in songs that I listen to almost daily that I never heard before. If you want them bright, you can eq them that way, if you want more midbass punch, it's just a little eq away. I've never had a set of speakers that were so responsive to eq. Midbass is fantastic. I had a few hours free and I wanted to go back and tidy up my install from a few months ago. I ended up playing them with the subs off for several hours and forgot just how good they sound by themselves.
yeah that's the way I did them. They still seem to have punch when I put my head near the ski-pass but they definitely don't hit as hard or go as low. I don't know wtf is going on. I moved the thing pre-amp, moved the amp "gain" to 0.1-0.8v and had to turn the gain up to 3/4's (used to be 1/2). This is all starting to piss me off lol

If you're going in that price range, you might as well include Dynaudio in your search. I've found a couple of the 2-way 242 sets fairly cheap plus Niebur3 can probably give you a good deal. Dyns are just awesome for what I want. They're not bright or dull, not muddy or punchy, they're just accurate and natural and incredibly detailed. The Dyns have revealed stuff in songs that I listen to almost daily that I never heard before. If you want them bright, you can eq them that way, if you want more midbass punch, it's just a little eq away. I've never had a set of speakers that were so responsive to eq. Midbass is fantastic. I had a few hours free and I wanted to go back and tidy up my install from a few months ago. I ended up playing them with the subs off for several hours and forgot just how good they sound by themselves.
I cut the heads off of RCAs, soldered and shrunk the connectors. Pre-amp all the way. I get white noise from my iSimple in the range of 1-2%, but none from the CD or Radio
I'm getting a lot of noise. I swear I'm getting more now than before I sanded and filed the grounding spot down. Probably about the same actually, but I'm just listening much more now and trying to find it. I really have no idea what to do anymore. I've re-done the grounds, new RCA, ground loop, etc..nothing helps that start up noise and noise
Did you do your big 3? Ground is probably 75% of all noise issues.
Nope. Ground's are secure and on bare metal. Do you think the "start-up" noise could be the remote wire? I've got the remote wire going from the PDX1.1000 to the PDX4.100 as I heard that's okay to do. Maybe it doesn't have enough juice to start it up coming from the PDX sub amp..i dunno? just spitballin' here
The CXS are going out today. I dropped a LRx in there too so that you can see how different it is to run these things active, even if you don't have a processor... you can still control the crossover points and gains with just the amp.
I'm getting a lot of noise. I swear I'm getting more now than before I sanded and filed the grounding spot down. Probably about the same actually, but I'm just listening much more now and trying to find it. I really have no idea what to do anymore. I've re-done the grounds, new RCA, ground loop, etc..nothing helps that start up noise and noise
Did you do your big 3? Ground is probably 75% of all noise issues.
Nope. Ground's are secure and on bare metal. Do you think the "start-up" noise could be the remote wire? I've got the remote wire going from the PDX1.1000 to the PDX4.100 as I heard that's okay to do. Maybe it doesn't have enough juice to start it up coming from the PDX sub amp..i dunno? just spitballin' here
The CXS are going out today. I dropped a LRx in there too so that you can see how different it is to run these things active, even if you don't have a processor... you can still control the crossover points and gains with just the amp.
I don't think it's your amp. I'm having the same issue with alt whine/noise from pre-factory amp splices into RCAs. Also, from the low voltage, having to turn the amp up considerably. Reworking the signal cables to remove the RCA heads (or just find some way to isolate them better) tomorrow. I used the ipod input direct method (into the amp) to confirm the amp was not my issue. If the above doesn't work and it is the balanced signal, my next approach will be taking post-factory amp signal (instead of a line driver) directly into my Zed amp. I'm trying to avoid LOCs and Ground Isos if possible.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
Get your big 3 done.
You always have to turn the gain up when you have a lower voltage input - this is what the gain does to normalize the input signal. 1 one the input and 8 on the gain is the same as 8 on the input and 1 on the gain.
You always have to turn the gain up when you have a lower voltage input - this is what the gain does to normalize the input signal. 1 one the input and 8 on the gain is the same as 8 on the input and 1 on the gain.
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I don't think it's your amp. I'm having the same issue with alt whine/noise from pre-factory amp splices into RCAs. Also, from the low voltage, having to turn the amp up considerably. Reworking the signal cables to remove the RCA heads (or just find some way to isolate them better) tomorrow. I used the ipod input direct method (into the amp) to confirm the amp was not my issue. If the above doesn't work and it is the balanced signal, my next approach will be taking post-factory amp signal (instead of a line driver) directly into my Zed amp. I'm trying to avoid LOCs and Ground Isos if possible.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
Exactly. I think the power situation is the "pre-amp/post-amp" dilema, but I believe that's not what's causing the startup hiss, etc. I had the subs wired up post amp and they sound MUCH better (PDX on 1-8v setting and 1/2 gain). No way I can keep it this way as I'll run out of gain before I get to where I was at 1/2 with it post-amp. Line driver/Processor is a must if you want to do pre-amp I'm assuming.
I just want to figure out why I'm getting this nasty hiss. Maybe I'll take the RF and LF post-amp signals and see if it goes away instead of using pre-amp. It sounds like everyone that DOES NOT have a line-driver or processor is having problems but everyone that DOES have one is fine.
My buddy is awaiting my text for my subs and PDX for $700...about to just do it and sit back for awhile. Ugh..this sucks
I don't think it's your amp. I'm having the same issue with alt whine/noise from pre-factory amp splices into RCAs. Also, from the low voltage, having to turn the amp up considerably. Reworking the signal cables to remove the RCA heads (or just find some way to isolate them better) tomorrow. I used the ipod input direct method (into the amp) to confirm the amp was not my issue. If the above doesn't work and it is the balanced signal, my next approach will be taking post-factory amp signal (instead of a line driver) directly into my Zed amp. I'm trying to avoid LOCs and Ground Isos if possible.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
As for the volume, I have my gain turned almost all the way and have yet to hit the clipping indicators on the amp so it's obvious the HU voltage is dropping considerably before reaching the amp so it is very weak. My dilemma is trying to understand if line driver/low gain has any advantage over low voltage signal/high gain without purchasing unnecessary equipment and modifying the install.
If the amp has a low/high voltage switch, make sure that it is set correctly. For example, the JL Slash amps have low from .2 to 2 volts and high from .8 to 8 volts.
If the amp can accept a .9 volt signal, then I would get rid of the line driver.
Looks like the zed will go down to .25 volts, or 250mv. The 900mv signal should work fine without the line driver. Just set the gain to where approximately 900mv is and you should get the max out of the amp.
I love zed amps... one of the few amps with good bandpass filters. I think that they are cheap for what you get too.
I love zed amps... one of the few amps with good bandpass filters. I think that they are cheap for what you get too.
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Yeah, I'd definitely cut out that Line Driver. No need for it
JDA- any thoughts on my startup noises? It goes away when a certain amount of volume goes through the speakers. The subs act fine, the fronts don't. You think re-wiring the remote wire would be beneficial? Maybe take it to the comp. amp first..then to the sub amp
JDA- any thoughts on my startup noises? It goes away when a certain amount of volume goes through the speakers. The subs act fine, the fronts don't. You think re-wiring the remote wire would be beneficial? Maybe take it to the comp. amp first..then to the sub amp
Yeah, didn't mean to hijack your thread TM. One of the reasons I picked the Zed up was due to the millivolt potential to grab pre-factory amp signals. However, even at max gain and max volume on the HU, clipping indicators STILL do not light up. Instructions on the Zed state to calibrate as such so that's why I am a bit puzzled and thought about using the line driver....to get the amp's best potential.
TM, in my research, it sounds like you are getting some feedback through the RCAs (hence why it's heard at only low volume). Someone on a different post said they were getting the same until they wrapped the RCA ends with electrical tape (just another thought).
TM, in my research, it sounds like you are getting some feedback through the RCAs (hence why it's heard at only low volume). Someone on a different post said they were getting the same until they wrapped the RCA ends with electrical tape (just another thought).
I am not 100% certain that the big 3 will solve it, but it will eliminate the biggest suspect.
About 10 feet of 4 gauge and 6 ring connectors will get this done.
Yeah, didn't mean to hijack your thread TM. One of the reasons I picked the Zed up was due to the millivolt potential to grab pre-factory amp signals. However, even at max gain and max volume on the HU, clipping indicators STILL do not light up. Instructions on the Zed state to calibrate as such so that's why I am a bit puzzled and thought about using the line driver....to get the amp's best potential.
Line driver can cut your signal, or jack it up.
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