Issues with Tach Learn with Viper 5901
#1
Issues with Tach Learn with Viper 5901
Hey all,
Background information:
Viper 5901, Honda Sl-Can, Honda Module.
Have wired up all three above units, alarm locks, unlocks. Attempts to remote start, as soon as RPMs go up to about 1200, the unit dies, and then attempts restart again.
Honda Module and CAN unit have been programmed correctly according to the LED on the units.
I am using Tach Sense, have attempted to teach the Viper Unit to learn the tach, but as the manual says to start with the Key, within 5 seconds I am to press the Valet Button until the LED light on the Valet/Antenna/LED goes solid. Well the light is not going solid, I have held the Valet Button for up to 20 seconds and still it does not go solid.
I believe that I have the Viper unit programmed for Tach input. And the Tach wire is reading 29.xx AC Volts when running, and 0 AC Volts when not running.
Anybody have any insight on this? I have tapped Tach sensor into the Yellow/Black wires ( I used one of the wires in the plug which is located on the back side of the engine by the rear injectors.
HELP PLEASE
Background information:
Viper 5901, Honda Sl-Can, Honda Module.
Have wired up all three above units, alarm locks, unlocks. Attempts to remote start, as soon as RPMs go up to about 1200, the unit dies, and then attempts restart again.
Honda Module and CAN unit have been programmed correctly according to the LED on the units.
I am using Tach Sense, have attempted to teach the Viper Unit to learn the tach, but as the manual says to start with the Key, within 5 seconds I am to press the Valet Button until the LED light on the Valet/Antenna/LED goes solid. Well the light is not going solid, I have held the Valet Button for up to 20 seconds and still it does not go solid.
I believe that I have the Viper unit programmed for Tach input. And the Tach wire is reading 29.xx AC Volts when running, and 0 AC Volts when not running.
Anybody have any insight on this? I have tapped Tach sensor into the Yellow/Black wires ( I used one of the wires in the plug which is located on the back side of the engine by the rear injectors.
HELP PLEASE
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rockland, NY
Age: 39
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it sounds like tach isnt learning.... try changing the settings to voltage and lower the voltage threshold to see if itll start that way. If it does then tach sense is the problem. If not then maybe crank time is too low.... def try with voltage to see if it even rem starts at all
#3
in orer for the valet switch to work properly a dome supervision wire must be connected.
location of harness on alarm
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the optional dome light supervision relay as shown below:
Important! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the dome light circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw
of one or more light bulbs.
if it is not you will not be able to program it.
Also - make sure that Neutral safety switch is wired or the remote start will not function.
Menu 3 - Remote start programing
make sure it is set for tech sence.
1. Open a door. (The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET,
H1/6 must be connected.)
2. Turn the ignition on, then off. (The heavy gauge PINK
wire must be connected.)
you can find this in the instalation manual on page 43
hope this helps a little. and not to confusing.
location of harness on alarm
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the optional dome light supervision relay as shown below:
Important! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the dome light circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw
of one or more light bulbs.
if it is not you will not be able to program it.
Also - make sure that Neutral safety switch is wired or the remote start will not function.
Menu 3 - Remote start programing
make sure it is set for tech sence.
1. Open a door. (The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET,
H1/6 must be connected.)
2. Turn the ignition on, then off. (The heavy gauge PINK
wire must be connected.)
you can find this in the instalation manual on page 43
hope this helps a little. and not to confusing.
#4
#5
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
You're not getting a good tach signal.... that's why the LED is not going solid
29 volts --? That's not right, your tach signal should vary between 0 and 9 or 10 volts and will cycle faster as you rev the engine. I used an injector wire closer to the front of then engine on the left side of the engine (left side when you're sitting in the driver's seat, THAT left side). I believe it was a black wire -- but there are three wires at the injector, just test one and use it if you get a cycling voltage.
I don't know what fade2blk is talking about.
PM me or email me I'll help you figure it out
29 volts --? That's not right, your tach signal should vary between 0 and 9 or 10 volts and will cycle faster as you rev the engine. I used an injector wire closer to the front of then engine on the left side of the engine (left side when you're sitting in the driver's seat, THAT left side). I believe it was a black wire -- but there are three wires at the injector, just test one and use it if you get a cycling voltage.
I don't know what fade2blk is talking about.
PM me or email me I'll help you figure it out
#6
in orer for the valet switch to work properly a dome supervision wire must be connected.
location of harness on alarm
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the optional dome light supervision relay as shown below:
Important! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the dome light circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw
of one or more light bulbs.
if it is not you will not be able to program it.
Also - make sure that Neutral safety switch is wired or the remote start will not function.
Menu 3 - Remote start programing
make sure it is set for tech sence.
1. Open a door. (The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET,
H1/6 must be connected.)
2. Turn the ignition on, then off. (The heavy gauge PINK
wire must be connected.)
you can find this in the instalation manual on page 43
hope this helps a little. and not to confusing.
location of harness on alarm
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the optional dome light supervision relay as shown below:
Important! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the dome light circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw
of one or more light bulbs.
if it is not you will not be able to program it.
Also - make sure that Neutral safety switch is wired or the remote start will not function.
Menu 3 - Remote start programing
make sure it is set for tech sence.
1. Open a door. (The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET,
H1/6 must be connected.)
2. Turn the ignition on, then off. (The heavy gauge PINK
wire must be connected.)
you can find this in the instalation manual on page 43
hope this helps a little. and not to confusing.
![what](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/what.gif)
You're not getting a good tach signal.... that's why the LED is not going solid
29 volts --? That's not right, your tach signal should vary between 0 and 9 or 10 volts and will cycle faster as you rev the engine. I used an injector wire closer to the front of then engine on the left side of the engine (left side when you're sitting in the driver's seat, THAT left side). I believe it was a black wire -- but there are three wires at the injector, just test one and use it if you get a cycling voltage.
I don't know what fade2blk is talking about.
PM me or email me I'll help you figure it out
29 volts --? That's not right, your tach signal should vary between 0 and 9 or 10 volts and will cycle faster as you rev the engine. I used an injector wire closer to the front of then engine on the left side of the engine (left side when you're sitting in the driver's seat, THAT left side). I believe it was a black wire -- but there are three wires at the injector, just test one and use it if you get a cycling voltage.
I don't know what fade2blk is talking about.
PM me or email me I'll help you figure it out
I checked the three wires on the injector closest to the battery. The Black/White reads 12.8 at rest, 14.4 while running. The Black (middle) reads 0 volts at rest, reads a range of .4-1 volt while running. The Third wire Brown/White I think reads .4 volts at rest, and ranges .4-.8 while running.
Cannot locate a wire that pulses
I know I could go ahead and set it to voltage sense, or virtual tach. But I want to stay away from that as much as possible.
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