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(2004 tl non navi) I'm making a custom box that should be pretty killer. Using 1 15" sub that will show through the arm rest pass through.. I might add pics here of the install. Or make a new thread if I think others could do the same setup. Anyway my questions. 1. Does the factory system have noise/sound reducers that will go haywire with alot of bass. Meaning will it auto adjust the radio and kill my bass? If so how do I remedy that? Question 2. What speakers to I splice from to install the rca adapter boxes/inverters? I'm thinking at rear left and right trunk deck speakers. But I've had an issue in the past.. 06 chrysler 300 srt8. Only the front door speakers received a full output signal. The rest of the speakers. Including rear deck speakers ran on a system that only feed them high and mids. So if you use them for your previous outs.. you end up with no bass from your subs.... hope that makes sense....
Dont think your car has noise cancellation... Believe its only the type s models that do.... But if you do the mic to disable would behind the rear dome light. As far as signals.... Not sure how full range the rears are but the fronts are good... The sub signal is also good but if doing tue loc thing the signal is attenuated down low by tye stock amp for the sub and probably for the other speakers as well. I had great results using the preamp signal for the sub in my old car.
Thanks. Hoping the factory subwoofer is DVC so I can get my left and right outputs for my amp from that. I have a 2 channel amp. I plan it bridge it to this dvc 15" sub that I have wired down to 2ohm.
Its not dvc. You may want to check the specs on your amp. Most amps Ive seen dont do 2 ohms bridged, even if they do 2 ohms per channel. ...or you could just cross your fingers.
Your right. I didn't think it through very well. And this amp is not rated for a 2 ohm bridged load. But it works anyway. For how long? Don't care got more amps. This one was a cheap walmart pos. 820watts. Prolly more like 300. I used it for years pounding out an alpine type R 12 at 2ohm bridged. So I've decided to splice my 2 channel LOC inputs together and get the signal at the factory sub. I don't think this will work very well but that's what I was told to do. + that wire is easily accessible.. I also called audio express and that's what they said they do on low budget installs where their only adding a sub and amp... I have my doubts. IL report back. Should have it all finished by tonight. Srry bout the double post.. Pretty douchy of me.. hopefully they delete the other post... and not me... for being a douche nozzle...
why would it not work well? are you going to use your sub for frequencies higher than 70/80? me and many others have spliced into the sub signal post stock amp with no issues. if you're going for an audiophile show quality build, it's not the best of course.
Not good.. worse possible case scenario.. aside from the car catching fire.. so skip to the bottom for my issue if you don't like long winded storys. So basically I designed the box amp and wiring to be kind of a put together in car deal... like the box fits like a glove just like the amp fits like a glove. No room to spare. And the wires are the exact lengths. No excess wires laying everywhere. I tried to make this a very clean install on a budget. (Including amp cost. The used sub. Wood. Carpet. Wiring kit. Screws. Chalk. Everything. I have a total of $150 in it and maybe 15 hours labor. My goal was 100% looks and still have a full functioning trunk. This is the grocery getter. So I wanted to use a 15" sub to fill the pass through hole. And use the smallest possible box. (Trunk space in mind) I figured no matter how much I fail with box size. No matter what. That 15 will deliver. So the amp I'm using... pioneer gm5500t. (Older walmart junk) I'm pretty sure is NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. And a massive audio cw 15. ..But I ran my alpine type r 12 for years at 2ohm. Same amp. No issues. As far as wiring I have power from the batt to amp. 8ga. Ground is a foot long using existing vehicle ground 8ga. My 2chan LOC is 'bridged' to the factory sub output. (Sub is still plugged in) good mid bass.... rem. From 32 acc fuse. I was very very carfull not not cross grounds and positives anywhere. Aka speaker wires. In and outs. I tore the entire car apart to hide every wire. No lazy ass through the fender bs here... I was very cautious about stray wires landing across amp posts..
ISSUES:
Just one. If I turn the sound up to high... past like 6 the amp cuts out for a second then comes back online. Irritating. So I lowered the gain from my preset of 70% down to 10% on the amp. Now I can turn it up to 10 before it cuts out... my first thoughts.1. 8ga isn't enough. (Even tho it's been fine before) 2. The factory sub pre out ain't that great. 3. For what ever reason this sub pulls ALOT more power at 2ohm than my 12" type r did at 2 ohms... so back to my meticulously fit box... I think my first start is to wire the sub to 4 ohms... getting it out will be a mother!! And good bye bass at 4 ohms. Btw for the second the sub works.... the bass is very very loud/deep and very very clean! Prolly loudest setup I've done. It's pretty impressive. I've heard alot of 15"s 18"s.. this one blows them out of the water. That is until late I go to 4 ohm.. or un bridge the amp. (Need better amp I know) but don't want to redo wiring to bigger stuff... anyway here's a pic or 2. IL send another as soon as sun goes away.
^ that issue is what we were trying to warn you about. it's not stable so the amp goes into protection mode and cuts out.
you should run 4ga power and ground as a minimum. i would switch it out asap. also sand down the ground location to bare metal.
also, you can't wire your sub to be 4 ohms. you have a dvc sub which you wired in parallel to be 2 ohms. if you wire in series you're at 8 ohms. you will need a new sub if you're bridging an amp. or get a mono amp with the power you need (that's what i would do)
So you put the sub in a box? You should research infinite baffle setups which is what your first picture looked like. Basically the trunk becomes the box. There shouldn't be a whole lot of difference at 4 ohm.... not noticable anyway unless your are very used to the volume at 2 ohm... but like sockr1 said you have a dvc sub which is 4+4ohms.. you can only wire it to 2 or 8. As he said, you should get a mono amp that will push out power into a 2 ohm load just fine.
I know.. I was already aware of the possible issues.. I did not know that you can't wire upto 4ohm. That sucks. A new amp is out of the question.. I'd rather go to 8 ohms and crank up the gain/bass/sub volume to max. That way too the 8ga wire should not be an issue. This amp is 820 max. And from walmart. It's prolly 350 max. No more. 8ga should be fine. They sell 10ga kits too.. I think 4 would be better yes... but over kill. Jmho. What would produce more bass? Going to 8 ohms or staying at 2. And un- bridging the amp? Dono... one channel prolly can't do 2ohm either
No offense but i think you need to read up on some electronics basics, i think it's good you're trying it on your own and learning the hard way like we all do. some of the items you just stated above contradict electrical engineering haha.
i've only done one audio install but i researched the shit out of it and then did my install. you can make it work with what you have but you'll be far from reaching the potential of the components you have. the first step to any audio build is to spec out the components so they work with each other not against each other
I looked up your amp... 8gauge should be fine. you can bridge it and power the sub at 8ohms and still get about 200W.... if you do that in infinite baffle it should be plenty of power to sound good. May be a bit weaker in a small box down low but try it first.
edit:...
the 8 gauge power wire is what your amp needs to operate. do not crank the bass, the input level, etc..... set it moderately at first and go from there.
Thanks for the help and replys. Tomorrow I'm going to painstakingly remove everything then remove the sub to wire it to 8 ohms. It pains me to do that... but I'm unwilling to coin down on a proper amp. Again. This is not a free air design. The sub is in a sealed box.
That's before I smoothed the edges.. I did leave the ghetto wires hanging out the drilled holes tho... that tape is just so I didn't trip on the wires lifting it into the trunk. Total box/sub weight is 58lbs. Alot heavier than I wanted.. oh well. IL post back tomorrow with an update. Also.. it is very very clear I don't know wtf I'm doing. I know just enough to make it dangerous. No comments needed backing up my stupidity. Thanks. eventually when I'm done.. I will have learned alot. Gained a decent sounding stereo. And best of all. I did it myself... with the help of some of you.
Ok. Fixed it. (Skip to fix. bottom) was a pain in the ass.. first I had to unscrew the amp from box. With a small ratchet and #2 bit it it.. suckd. Then putt the amp off the box. Rotate the box out. Cut some of the wires so I could pull the box to the end of the trunk.. removed the sub. Wired it to 8 ohms. Put it ALL back together... well first I made sure it was working. Then put it ALL back together. Went to listen to it louder... hmm not much there. So I maxed everything out... still not much. Turns out I was hearing the factory sub thinking it was the 15.. so then I removed everything again thinking I knocked a wire loose on the amp... yeah found one sorta loose. Fixed that. Tested it again (before putting it all back!) Still nothing.. so I pulled the sub back out..
FIX:
Found the wire I just connected to the sub to be torn and laying limp inside the box... yeah.. got me. Fixed that. Put it ALL back.. Bass is no where as hard as it was (to be expected) but still hits very good. And no cutting out. (Atleast at 18 on the radio.... houses are sorta close together in my neighborhood) going for a drive..
Glad its coming together. Infinite baffle would basically be just the baffle of your box leaving the back open into the trunk giving you a quasi-sealed box of about 13+ cubic feet. This would allow your sub to move a lot more freely and better use of the 200watts you have available... Even if you just removed the back of the box would allow you a very sturdy baffle. You would also need to add some materials of some sort on the sides of it as the idea is to seal off the front of the baffle from the back (reducing cancellations from the rear sound waves, same idea as using a sealed box)
Why do you suggest I disconnect stock sub? With my 15 at 8 ohms.. they almost sound the same. Lol
It is possible and perhaps likely introducing unnecessary cancellation in the lower frequencies due to the phase of the two outputs. Also it rattles doesnt it?
My factory sub doesn't rattle . I'm honestly surprised it doesnt; given the layout. When ever I upgrade my amp I will most likely disconnect and remove it entirely.
02-19-2016, 07:45 PM
