Installation of Infinity 62.7i speakers
#1
Installation of Infinity 62.7i speakers
As one of my Xmas presents, the hubby got me a pair of the above speakers as replacements for the front door speakers. I have already done the replacement of the tweeters and center channel and was very impressed with the results, so I decided to finish off the front of the car.
As far as sound, they definitely make a difference. I think the front is now complete. The sound is very crisp and clear and a little louder in my opinion. I have all of the sound settings in the middle and I think that is an optimal setting for the music I listen to, mostly rock and techno.
Installation was not a breeze, however. As some of you know, the stock speakers sit in a plastic basket type thing in order for it to mount to the door and to somewhat protect the speaker from water that gets in the door. Of course the Infinitys do not fit in this plastic basket. They come with several pieces of mounting options but none of then would allow the speaker to sit properly in the door. So we decided to cut out the side and back part of the plastic basket and leave the ring so the speaker would mount in the same manner to the door. The only drawback to this is that the speaker is not protected from water, but it should be ok.
Using a dremel tool, cut around the outer ring pretty much where the foam tape is.
The screw holes don't line up, you can use at most one of them and then you basically have to make at least one more screw hole down in the plastic in order to secure the speaker. Not the prettiest thing, but it worked. Next, afix a few strips of foam tape around the edges to keep it from rattling since you basically cut away most of the original foam.
These speakers come with crossovers and in order to protect them from water, we kept them in the plastic wrap they came in and then put them in a sandwich baggie to further keep the water out.
You will need one of the generic Acura speaker wiring harnesses. We used the ones from Metra. You can get them at Best Buy, they come 2 to a package. You solder the wiring harness to the crossover, then plug the harness into the existing wiring plug from the old speaker. Then the plastic ring clips into the door holes like it did before.
The Infinity sticks out a little more than the stock speaker, but there is plenty of room in the door panel to accommodate it. I haven't had any rattling problems yet, but of course i have the volume up loud enough that I really probably wouldn't hear it anyway .
With all the modfications needed, it probably took us almost 3 hours to do both speakers, but definitely a worthy upgrade.
As far as sound, they definitely make a difference. I think the front is now complete. The sound is very crisp and clear and a little louder in my opinion. I have all of the sound settings in the middle and I think that is an optimal setting for the music I listen to, mostly rock and techno.
Installation was not a breeze, however. As some of you know, the stock speakers sit in a plastic basket type thing in order for it to mount to the door and to somewhat protect the speaker from water that gets in the door. Of course the Infinitys do not fit in this plastic basket. They come with several pieces of mounting options but none of then would allow the speaker to sit properly in the door. So we decided to cut out the side and back part of the plastic basket and leave the ring so the speaker would mount in the same manner to the door. The only drawback to this is that the speaker is not protected from water, but it should be ok.
Using a dremel tool, cut around the outer ring pretty much where the foam tape is.
The screw holes don't line up, you can use at most one of them and then you basically have to make at least one more screw hole down in the plastic in order to secure the speaker. Not the prettiest thing, but it worked. Next, afix a few strips of foam tape around the edges to keep it from rattling since you basically cut away most of the original foam.
These speakers come with crossovers and in order to protect them from water, we kept them in the plastic wrap they came in and then put them in a sandwich baggie to further keep the water out.
You will need one of the generic Acura speaker wiring harnesses. We used the ones from Metra. You can get them at Best Buy, they come 2 to a package. You solder the wiring harness to the crossover, then plug the harness into the existing wiring plug from the old speaker. Then the plastic ring clips into the door holes like it did before.
The Infinity sticks out a little more than the stock speaker, but there is plenty of room in the door panel to accommodate it. I haven't had any rattling problems yet, but of course i have the volume up loud enough that I really probably wouldn't hear it anyway .
With all the modfications needed, it probably took us almost 3 hours to do both speakers, but definitely a worthy upgrade.
#3
Originally Posted by Crook
Good job. The install came out nice. I thought I was done with my tweeter/center speaker swap and now I see this and it makes me want to buy some more speakers and do the same. Thanks alot.
#5
Kaa - Ching !!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 2
From: Rhode Island.....Self-Proclaimed Chromed Cousin of Brettallica
I had some extra cash to blow this week and I really want to upgrade the TL speakers:
Here's what I bought tonight - all for around $180.00
Infinity 1011t 1" Tweeter Speakers
Infinity 32.7cf 3 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers
and Infinity 62.7i 6 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers
Do I have to worry about how much the factory set or amp can handle?
I might go back for the Infinity 63.7i 6 1/2" Coaxial Three-Way Speakers for the rear deck.
Do the ohms or someting have to add up to something to do with the amp?
Here's what I bought tonight - all for around $180.00
Infinity 1011t 1" Tweeter Speakers
Infinity 32.7cf 3 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers
and Infinity 62.7i 6 1/2" Coaxial Two-Way Speakers
Do I have to worry about how much the factory set or amp can handle?
I might go back for the Infinity 63.7i 6 1/2" Coaxial Three-Way Speakers for the rear deck.
Do the ohms or someting have to add up to something to do with the amp?
#7
Kaa - Ching !!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 2
From: Rhode Island.....Self-Proclaimed Chromed Cousin of Brettallica
This sounds too easy .....LOL.
What the hell is the crossover I keep reading about in all these threads????
You know I don't do electrical Kennedy .......LOL
What the hell is the crossover I keep reading about in all these threads????
You know I don't do electrical Kennedy .......LOL
Trending Topics
#8
Let me explain in non electrical terms...
Little tiny tweeter don't need the same "power" as a big ol woofer. The stereo puts out the same power to the speakers. This present a problem when coax speakers have a woofer and a tweeter in one module.
The crossover "eats" the extra power so the big woofer and tweeter gets the right amount power... without the crossover, the power supplied to the woofer would blow'd up the tweeter.
Buy the PnP connectors from crutchfield. The only difficulty in any of this is physically mounting them. and the tweeters you have to splice or ise adobeman's pins.
Little tiny tweeter don't need the same "power" as a big ol woofer. The stereo puts out the same power to the speakers. This present a problem when coax speakers have a woofer and a tweeter in one module.
The crossover "eats" the extra power so the big woofer and tweeter gets the right amount power... without the crossover, the power supplied to the woofer would blow'd up the tweeter.
Buy the PnP connectors from crutchfield. The only difficulty in any of this is physically mounting them. and the tweeters you have to splice or ise adobeman's pins.
#9
Kaa - Ching !!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 2
From: Rhode Island.....Self-Proclaimed Chromed Cousin of Brettallica
Believe it or not that makes perfect sense to me.....LOL. I'm just doing the front for now - tweets, center & doors..........I was a little worried I'd be adding to much "speaker power" for the stock amp and all to handle.
The PNP connectors can be used on the door and center? I'll have to study Adobe's way to make sure I understand that correctly.
Psysically mounting them is the easy part for me........that I know I can make work.
Thanks Kennedy
The PNP connectors can be used on the door and center? I'll have to study Adobe's way to make sure I understand that correctly.
Psysically mounting them is the easy part for me........that I know I can make work.
Thanks Kennedy
#10
Originally Posted by SteveP66
The PNP connectors can be used on the door and center? I'll have to study Adobe's way to make sure I understand that correctly.
#11
i purchased the new infiniti 1021 reference tweeters and will install them tomorrow... Also i bought the JL 8" sub and 120 watt JL amp and will install all of them with Dynomat tomorrow.... I have also purchased Focal speakers to replace all of the factory door speakers and a 4 channel amp to push them all and dynomat all of the doors. Should be very hot about $2500 total will post pics hopefully next week i am going to have the focal's, amp and dynamat professionally installed due to the extensive labor...
desper
desper
#12
Kaa - Ching !!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 2
From: Rhode Island.....Self-Proclaimed Chromed Cousin of Brettallica
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Let me explain in non electrical terms...
Little tiny tweeter don't need the same "power" as a big ol woofer. The stereo puts out the same power to the speakers. This present a problem when coax speakers have a woofer and a tweeter in one module.
The crossover "eats" the extra power so the big woofer and tweeter gets the right amount power... without the crossover, the power supplied to the woofer would blow'd up the tweeter.
Buy the PnP connectors from crutchfield. The only difficulty in any of this is physically mounting them. and the tweeters you have to splice or ise adobeman's pins.
Little tiny tweeter don't need the same "power" as a big ol woofer. The stereo puts out the same power to the speakers. This present a problem when coax speakers have a woofer and a tweeter in one module.
The crossover "eats" the extra power so the big woofer and tweeter gets the right amount power... without the crossover, the power supplied to the woofer would blow'd up the tweeter.
Buy the PnP connectors from crutchfield. The only difficulty in any of this is physically mounting them. and the tweeters you have to splice or ise adobeman's pins.
You crack me up........I'll send you a plane ticket so you can come install them for me......LOL
Tiny tweeter and big ol woofer will be here in a few days......LOL
#13
Originally Posted by desper
i purchased the new infiniti 1021 reference tweeters and will install them tomorrow... Also i bought the JL 8" sub and 120 watt JL amp and will install all of them with Dynomat tomorrow.... I have also purchased Focal speakers to replace all of the factory door speakers and a 4 channel amp to push them all and dynomat all of the doors. Should be very hot about $2500 total will post pics hopefully next week i am going to have the focal's, amp and dynamat professionally installed due to the extensive labor...
desper
desper
#14
Still in the works as of now, i just got done putting in the tweeters and center abou 30 mins ago, work has taken about all of my time...
It only took me about 1.5 hours to do the center and tweeters was really easy.
I have the Sub and dynamat extreme laying around my place, i am actually going to sell the 8w3v2 and a phoenix gold amp wiring kit, and buy a custom figerglass enclosure for a 12" JL which is listed in the black market in the group buys section..
So the 8w3V2 and wiring kit will be going up for sale both are brand new. As far as the focals, i have the front speakers at home and I am waiting to install them.
I got behind on this due to the $3000 on rims and tires, $600 on rotora slotted rotors and ceramic pads, and about $300 for custom painted headlghts and corners.. And the E-shift pro cats which i am getting in a week or two. Wanted all of these things more than stereo so it is on hold for another month...
If anyone wants the new JL and new amp wiring kit check the black market soon i paid $170 including shipping for them will list for lower than that.
Desper
It only took me about 1.5 hours to do the center and tweeters was really easy.
I have the Sub and dynamat extreme laying around my place, i am actually going to sell the 8w3v2 and a phoenix gold amp wiring kit, and buy a custom figerglass enclosure for a 12" JL which is listed in the black market in the group buys section..
So the 8w3V2 and wiring kit will be going up for sale both are brand new. As far as the focals, i have the front speakers at home and I am waiting to install them.
I got behind on this due to the $3000 on rims and tires, $600 on rotora slotted rotors and ceramic pads, and about $300 for custom painted headlghts and corners.. And the E-shift pro cats which i am getting in a week or two. Wanted all of these things more than stereo so it is on hold for another month...
If anyone wants the new JL and new amp wiring kit check the black market soon i paid $170 including shipping for them will list for lower than that.
Desper
#16
I just changed-out all of my speakers to Infinity's, and for the door speakers you don't have to cut the plastic basket at all. The Infinity speakers come with two different bezels, one is plastic and one is steel. If you use the steel one, it has many different mounting holes. You can line it up so that it screws directly onto the plastic door basket, and then the speaker screws directly onto the steel bezel. The steel bezel offers enough clearance so that the Infinity speaker fits perfectly into the stock plastic door basket. No cutting required.
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
#17
Originally Posted by JimmyDee
I just changed-out all of my speakers to Infinity's, and for the door speakers you don't have to cut the plastic basket at all. The Infinity speakers come with two different bezels, one is plastic and one is steel. If you use the steel one, it has many different mounting holes. You can line it up so that it screws directly onto the plastic door basket, and then the speaker screws directly onto the steel bezel. The steel bezel offers enough clearance so that the Infinity speaker fits perfectly into the stock plastic door basket. No cutting required.
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
#18
Originally Posted by JimmyDee
I just changed-out all of my speakers to Infinity's, and for the door speakers you don't have to cut the plastic basket at all. The Infinity speakers come with two different bezels, one is plastic and one is steel. If you use the steel one, it has many different mounting holes. You can line it up so that it screws directly onto the plastic door basket, and then the speaker screws directly onto the steel bezel. The steel bezel offers enough clearance so that the Infinity speaker fits perfectly into the stock plastic door basket. No cutting required.
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
Also, I found with the tweeter and center channel upgrade, that the sound was a little 'bright' or 'brassy'. I decided to disconnect the tweeters in the door speakers, as well as the one in the center channel. The only tweeters I'm using are the dash mounted ones, and the ones on the rear deck speakers. It sounds a lot better.
Just my 2 cents...
Jimmy
What model Infinity speakers did you use? Thanks
#19
How much of a sound difference did the 62.71s make? Do they take music at high volume better? Basically do they sound louder? Because stock speakers will kinda distort at high levels at times....
#20
Originally Posted by robbie82
How much of a sound difference did the 62.71s make? Do they take music at high volume better? Basically do they sound louder? Because stock speakers will kinda distort at high levels at times....
#21
Originally Posted by robbie82
How much of a sound difference did the 62.71s make? Do they take music at high volume better? Basically do they sound louder? Because stock speakers will kinda distort at high levels at times....
One thing to note is I thought I was happy with just the doors, but it sounds much more complete now with the tweets. I would highly recommend doing all of the fronts. With just the doors you notice the sound is coming from the doors. With the tweeters added, you don't notice where the sound is coming from, it blends well.
One downside is I've noticed it doesn't sound quite as balanced when using the surround on the DVD-As. I fade it to the rear a couple notches when listening to those and it helps a lot. I plan on doing the rears also but waiting until I have my dynamat to do at the same time and possibly pulling the stock sub to let the bass out of the trunk a little better.
#23
It's louder no doubt. If the stock system is almost loud enough but you want that little extra, these will do it for you. If you want something much louder you will have to add an amp. I typically listen to mine a good 10 points lower than with the stock speakers. I would recommend doing the tweeters with the doors. With just the doors you realize the sound is coming from the doors With the tweeters too, it sounds like it's all around you.
Again, I can't emphasize how pleased I am with my Kappa 63.7 3-ways, in the doors, and 1021 reference silk dome tweeters. The metal tweeters in the Kappa doors were almost too bright. That's why I went with the new 2 ohm silk dome reference tweeters in the dash. The sound is perfectly balanced. They're loud enough that it's uncomfortable to listen to at full volume for more than a few seconds.
For what it's worth with the subs and stock mids/highs, I had the treble turned all the way up. With the Infinities I keep the treble mid way or it will kill my ears at high volumes. They are much more dynamic and will really show you how lacking the stock system is.
Again, I can't emphasize how pleased I am with my Kappa 63.7 3-ways, in the doors, and 1021 reference silk dome tweeters. The metal tweeters in the Kappa doors were almost too bright. That's why I went with the new 2 ohm silk dome reference tweeters in the dash. The sound is perfectly balanced. They're loud enough that it's uncomfortable to listen to at full volume for more than a few seconds.
For what it's worth with the subs and stock mids/highs, I had the treble turned all the way up. With the Infinities I keep the treble mid way or it will kill my ears at high volumes. They are much more dynamic and will really show you how lacking the stock system is.
#24
Originally Posted by I hate cars
I did the whole infinity front soundstage but one set at a time. Each one made a signifigant difference. Did the doors with the 63.7 3 ways which made a big difference. Next was the center with an Infinity reference. Probably the smallest difference as expected with regular CDs and radio. Pretty good difference on the DVD-As. The tweets are the new Infinity Ref 1022 2-ohm which I couldn't be happier with. Probably as much improvement as the doors. Yes, they are louder. Not a lot but noticable.
One thing to note is I thought I was happy with just the doors, but it sounds much more complete now with the tweets. I would highly recommend doing all of the fronts. With just the doors you notice the sound is coming from the doors. With the tweeters added, you don't notice where the sound is coming from, it blends well.
One downside is I've noticed it doesn't sound quite as balanced when using the surround on the DVD-As. I fade it to the rear a couple notches when listening to those and it helps a lot. I plan on doing the rears also but waiting until I have my dynamat to do at the same time and possibly pulling the stock sub to let the bass out of the trunk a little better.
One thing to note is I thought I was happy with just the doors, but it sounds much more complete now with the tweets. I would highly recommend doing all of the fronts. With just the doors you notice the sound is coming from the doors. With the tweeters added, you don't notice where the sound is coming from, it blends well.
One downside is I've noticed it doesn't sound quite as balanced when using the surround on the DVD-As. I fade it to the rear a couple notches when listening to those and it helps a lot. I plan on doing the rears also but waiting until I have my dynamat to do at the same time and possibly pulling the stock sub to let the bass out of the trunk a little better.
AMIC and I hate cars,
Thanks for the feed back....I thought thats exactly how it would work, since the speakers can handle more and are able to provide a much cleaner and pure sound, technically there not louder, but they sound louder since there able to perform much better then stock speakers....
Thanks fellas after I tint my windows, Im making this my very next mod! along with an infinity basslink!
#25
Originally Posted by robbie82
AMIC and I hate cars,
Thanks for the feed back....I thought thats exactly how it would work, since the speakers can handle more and are able to provide a much cleaner and pure sound, technically there not louder, but they sound louder since there able to perform much better then stock speakers....
Thanks fellas after I tint my windows, Im making this my very next mod! along with an infinity basslink!
Thanks for the feed back....I thought thats exactly how it would work, since the speakers can handle more and are able to provide a much cleaner and pure sound, technically there not louder, but they sound louder since there able to perform much better then stock speakers....
Thanks fellas after I tint my windows, Im making this my very next mod! along with an infinity basslink!
I pretty much agree with the loudness. On some music they don't sound much louder but if you get something that's very dynamic it will surprise you that they're still powered off the stock amp.
I always liked the stock TL system although I added my subs two days after buying it. Listening to a stock TL system now sounds like it's underwater and muffled lol. For the $250 or so it's well, well worth the money.
I would like to add, and I always forget since I have the subs, but the Infinities don't have much if any more bass than stock.
#27
Originally Posted by italian_spak
did you only add them in the front or also in the back?
I only did the fronts. I don't listen to DVD-A all that much so I don't really need the rears to be that strong. I fade one notch to the front anyway and I find that to be an optimal setting for what I listen to.
#32
So is the whole "not cutting the basket" thing true with the Bezel thing? Does anyone have pictures of the bezel or any bezel so I know what your talking about, most mods I would be afraid to do, but Audio installations I have always done myself and would like as much info as possible before diving into this.
thanks.
thanks.
#34
very simple to remove... Remove 4 screws... and then Pull (rest are clips)... shouldn't take you more than 5 to 10 minutes since it's your first time... don't worry you wouldn't break anything... so simple a caveman can do it... lol
#35
Originally Posted by robbie82
So is the whole "not cutting the basket" thing true with the Bezel thing? Does anyone have pictures of the bezel or any bezel so I know what your talking about, most mods I would be afraid to do, but Audio installations I have always done myself and would like as much info as possible before diving into this.
thanks.
thanks.
Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone.
#36
Originally Posted by AMIC
I think from what I've seen those who are saying they didn't cut the basket were using the 63.7s. Those might be a bit different shape than the 62.7s.
Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone.
Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone.
#38
Originally Posted by italian_spak
Ok so you trew the crossover inside the speaker hole? Any problems with the window? cus i was thinking of screwing mine on the sheet metal
Kind of off topic but I ended up completely shutting the tweeters off in the doors. They were overwhelming and hurt my ears at moderate volume. At first I just unplugged the tweeter/mid but it lost a lot of clarity. The small "midrange" next to the tweeter really helps the clarity so I ended up taping over just the tweeters. Sounds a lot better than just the speaker by itself.
#40
so have your speaker got wet yet? that little white piece of plastic on the back is finned so that the water is shunt off the speaker when it drips down. haha And they make it so its not completely closed off so the speaker has air space behind to give it a better sound.. So in other words, dont try sealing it off like you did your filter