eggyhustles

:t omato:

Sub size does NOT determine frequency response

..enclosure does.

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

wow.... this is exactly why

you guys have a good time! I'll catch yins on the flip side!

I hate cars

And that's exactly what I'm talking about. There's no discussions with you, there's no basic questions such as what kind of airspace your enclosures provide. That's a legit question for anyone purchasing your product. You come back saying it's appropriately sized but you can't answer such a simple basic question.

Maybe it's marketed toward the non audio crowd that just wants a little bump and doesn't know anything about audio or care what it sounds like.

Providing simple numbers without the attitude might help sales. You blame "us" for your lack of sales. Maybe it's your attitude and unwillingness to answer a simple question.

"But now everyone here is a professional. Everyone knows what I know and can do what I do." Maybe it's true, maybe several of us know more than you do. I'll give it to you, I know very little about fiberglassing, that's why I paid to have my kicks made but after saying that a small sub is quicker I seriously doubt your knowledge and I think that's why you instantly get defensive when anyone asks questions.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Purely from a business standpoint, the getting defensive method definitely doesn't resound well with customers. If you know something you know it, if you don't it's always better to just listen and say that you weren't aware of that. I don't think everyone can make the enclosures uncald4 makes and I don't think everyone wants to. I'm guessing each one is a one off production which takes you a lot of labor which keeps the prices up...if you wanted to go next level I would have suggested coming up with a way to produce them in bulk and then price would have dropped and a lot more people would probably buy.

There's always someone that knows less and there's always someone that knows more...just the way it is.

Here are my subs...not to take it too far off topic, but just answering the question. Crutchfield says NOT recommended for free air so I assumed that meant IB.

These subs, I've had for 6 years now...they are tanks and have been able to handle plenty o power.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-z3fPvdI...n-AW1206T.html


So, in closing, thanks to you audio buffs for the added info.

And thanks to Uncald4 for your addition to helping with the modding and customizing crowd for a car that doesn't have a big aftermarket (or didn't ) I would suggest you don't leave the forum altogether in case you need to come in and point people toward your online site. Make a new username like Uncald4 II or something.

eggyhustles

I knew that dude didn't know what he was talking about, lol.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah if these were in bulk I'd pick one up just to try it. Nice space saver and JDA says they gain some db's in that corner of ours. It's just too much for an enclosure..for me at least. Nice looking enclosures though

I hate cars

The specs look decent for IB. 18mm xmax isn't bad, the pair would be pretty loud. The efficiency is super high, I had no idea. In IB, 100w would probably be about right.

You can use any sub in IB but whether or not it would sound right is another story. I've found for the most part just about every sub people have tried sounds ok in IB. Manufacturers don't want people trying it because the warranty claims would pile up when people try and throw the same power on them that they did in a sealed setup. JL specifically told me not to use the W6 in IB but I did anyway and that's one of the best sounding sub setups I've ever heard.

With that said, these subs look best suited for a ported setup. If yours is ported now, you will probably be very disappointed with the output in IB. I still can't get over the efficiency. 96.4@1w 1m They're more than twice as efficient as my IB15s that I always brag about. I might keep an eye out for anyone selling one of these.

I hate cars

I just can't get over not answering the airspace and tuning frequency questions. That's like asking a car salesman which engine the car you're purchasing has and him getting defensive and saying trust me, it's the right one.

eggyhustles

Bloated spec

audiobling subs being 96db efficient? i don't believe it, lol.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Matt, really!?!? And here I thought I had some POS subs because I picked them up from circuit city. I actually have them in a very small sealed enclosure, about 1 cube per sub....it was the box they came in which I recently revamped and glued and screwed down and recarpeted. It fits PERFECTLY in between the two rear wheel wells and is only 12" deep so it's way in there.

Funny story actually...I bought one of them, right...probably for about $89 IIRC...mind you, we're talking 6 years ago (at least!). So fedex delivery says it's on my doorstep. I get home and there's nothing. I call and say someone stole it. No problem, they send me another one. So new one comes and a week after that the original one shows up on my doorstep. I'm like WOW...so I go back to the store to give them the other one back. The girl at the customer service desk looks at me and says "ummm...if I put this in the back, one of our techs is just going to steal it...you should just keep it". I said OK!

In addition, they had given me a box for 2 12's (ironic?) and when I told them I had only ordered one they gave me 1 for 1 12. I ran just 1 12 for a bit since I was limited on space but once I amp'd the inside speakers...I tested out putting in both 12's and I was hooked.

They actually hit VERY nicely right now...can handle 1100 RMS each...and am feeding them 1ohm stable 1500 watts (at 5/8's gain) with my MB Quart Q amp. It runs to a knob up front that came with the amp that actually has a clip signal indicator ON the knob too. Pretty awesome since I can adjust bass on the fly.

One day, I'll probably give IB a try...guess the 2 and a 1/2" rubber surround should have been a clue that they'd be able to pound pretty well.

TmaX

iTrader: (1)

I was looking into one of these to install a single 10" JL 10W3v3-4 which would receive about 250-300W RMS to just add some bass to my setup.

Is the general consensus that these enclosures would not be ideal in terms of SQ perspective?
I am looking to get some good SQ without taking up too much trunk space and not to mention the added weight.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Sealed is much easier to get right than ported first of all. When dealing with ported you have to worry about port velocity, length, frequency, etc etc. With that being said...these enclosures seem to hold up for the people that have them so if you're looking for a small, side loaded enclosure then go for it.

I will say that if you dont have the sub yet, step up to the 12.

eggyhustles

x2

skip the w3 and get a image dynamics id or idq


They do much better in small sealed

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

I just picked up a 10W6v2 for one of these enclosures, and will install in next week. My install guy was saying that a sealed enclosure built to JL specs for the sub is too small to sound good. I can't imagine the official JL specs being wildly off, and I know I've seen people here run this exact set up and be happy. Any idea if I will have any issues with this?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

WOW!



An installer that is competent. None of those in this state lol. But yeah, JL's specs (and most actually) are on the small side. My 12w6's say around 1.25 but they sound much better in 1.5/sub. The 10" calls for 0.625 so 1cuft or slightly more should be fine.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

On that note, is there anything that could be done about this then? Can polyfill be used to compensate for any of this potentially? I believe this enclosure is built to JL specs.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Did you purchase it from Uncald4? Or where?...They should know the enclosure specs


...I'd hope!

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Yes, I purchased directly from Uncald4, built to the suggested JL specs.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I would say the most the sub will "act like it's in a larger box" is about 20%. Which would make it think it's in a 0.75cuft enclosure. Still a bit small if I were to do it, but you should be happy with it no doubt. I'd use about 1/2 to 3/4 lb of it

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Perfect, I think I'll do just that. I'm not looking to make every single detail as perfect as possible, I'm more looking for a good quality setup, SQ over SPL all day, and minimal trunk space occupied. Hopefully this all works nicely, the new stuff is going in a week from today and the amp is moving to the ceiling, should make for a nice, clean looking install.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Take pics and post up after pics on here! Interested to see it

I hate cars

Good advice in here. The W7 is JL's best SQ sub and it happens to get loud as well. Put it in a larger box and the power requirements go down, the response flattens out, and it sounds better on every type of music.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

You mean W7 or W6?

I hate cars

W7. Think of the W7 as a W6 with more excursion. I thought you had a W7 at first. W6 is still a great sub.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Ah, gotcha. Yea, that w7 is nice for sure, but out of my price range. The w6 was more than I was looking to spend too, but I decided the quality would be worth it over my second choice, the alpine type r. If I keep going, I'll probably get either a 300/2 or 300/4. Is there a good reason to get one over the other? I'm wondering if it's worth it to amp the rears or just leave them be.

And I will definitely post up some pics when it's done, can't wait.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

300/2 will be fine. If you need to recuperate from the w6 purchase, there are plenty of amps out there that will power that for cheap.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

I already have the sub powered just fine with a Polk MOMO C500.1 . The next step would be amping the fronts or the fronts and rears. Thats why I'm trying to figure out if I should just get a 300/2 for the fronts and leave the rears as they are, or if I would go with a 300/4 and do all 4 speakers. Is a 300.2 overkill for most component sets? 150W x 2 @ 4 ohms if I went with the matching amp to my C500.1, which I have access to purchasing, or I would imagine the same or similar specs with the JL 300.2.

It seems like its more difficult to get to the rears, taking the seat out and all. Is it an easier install to just power the front speakers? I have mine faded towards the front already, and if I got some decent components and amped them up front, I would probably just move it even more to the front.

TmaX

iTrader: (1)

I would definitely be going with sealed vs ported.
Its not that I cant afford a 12 but I have always been impartial towards a hard hitting 10 vs a 12.
I am not looking for a lot off bass either just enough to compliment my current system.

I have read some good things about them but I still got lots of time to do some research before I pull the trigger.

I hate cars

The size of a sub has no effect on how hard it hits. The enclosure determines this. You can have a 15 that hits as hard or much harder than a 10. It's always better to go with the largest speaker or multiples as you can fit whether your goal is SQ, SPL, or both. That's why I run a pair of 15s... but the sound is determined by the enclosure.

TmaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for letting me know that its the enclosure that dictates the SQ.
I'm going to keep a look out for any good deals on a 12 locally then.
The reason I was looking at this enclosure b/c it allows me to retain the most amount of trunk space.

From the above posts having the enclosure build a bit larger than the JL Specs would also aid in giving me better bass.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Most enclosure specs are on the small side because it will protect the sub & give what 90% of car audio users want...boomy and loud-sounding. Anyways, go for the 12.


KJ- I'd run fronts only. That 300/2 will be fine if your running through the passives. Actually..I'd personally like a bit more power but for 90% of people that'll be fine.

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

You're right.... you guys are the AZ car audio nazi's. I'm just a peon.

I'm not here to win discussions. I will always steer clear of car audio discussions with forum members because it's a complete waste of time. My customers will always stand behind me because of my experience, honesty and integrity. You clowns are not my customers and can fuck off.

You guys need to call the winningest car ever in competitive sound and tell him that he should be running 15's instead of 6" and 8" subwoofers.

eggyhustles

Is that right?

arguably the best and most dymanic sounding car in the world(richard clark's grand national) ran 15's...









yeah...myth busted.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=Trunk Monkey;13530683

KJ- I'd run fronts only. That 300/2 will be fine if your running through the passives. Actually..I'd personally like a bit more power but for 90% of people that'll be fine.[/QUOTE]

That seems like it would work out pretty well then. The amp actually tests out at about 175 x 2 as opposed to the 150 x 2, so there would be a little extra power anyway. Thanks for the input. Don't know if I'll do this anytime soon or not, but its nice to have the info.

Keanu's mrs. T

BEAUTIFUL! I have seen many pics of your enclosures and it's honestly sincere craftsmanship and it's a real bummer to see many ppl disregard your experience. Your work has been a real inspiration for me to dust off my subs and revive my old passion for car audio! Best of luck for you and your crew!

I hate cars

Why are you not a peon? Because you sell enclosures? Let's see your research and your resume. You're a salesman, that doesn't make you any more knowledgeable then the many knowledgeable people on here.

Of course you steer clear of discussions, you don't even know the displacement or tuning frequency of the enclosures you sell. It's your job to provide basic specs of your product and you can't/won't. Any vendor with this attitude tells me to run, not walk away. For the price you demand, you can't supply specs, really? Instead you give off this I'm better than you attitude. I hope no one buys another one of your products, you're busted.

JL spec enclosures don't give the best SQ, they're there to give a good compromise and most importantly to protect the sub and make sure it hits the thermal limits before the mechanical limits. Make the enclosure larger and you lower power requirements and increase SQ. This is coming from someone with a brain that has used these subs in 3 different sealed enclosures, ported, bandpass, and IB. How much experience do YOU have in these setups?

We are not your customers because we have a brain. You literally lost all respect when you said sub size makes a difference in the way it sounds.

You're good at marketing a product, that doesn't mean you know anything about it.

If you're talking about the HAT car with a 6" in a t-line, that's not doable for people that don't want their entire trunk taken up by a little sub and that particular one might have one win. The entire team has a ton of wins but not with the 6".

You'll also realize that competition and daily drivers are not tuned the same way and should not be tuned the same way. I've had some very big, very winning names in the industry admit that if the same x over points are used with any sort of power as you do in daily driving you're going to blow something. Almost all have a daily driving tune and a comp tune. If you've ever been to judging, they're judged at a low level, something like 90db. Depending on efficiency, 90db requires 1-2w of power. So fine, run a 6" or 8". Comp cars sound boring to me. I've tuned my car that way and I can't get used to it. I like bass. I like the bass integrated but I like a lot of it and no 8" or 10" is going to give me the SPL along with SQ that I need. Some of best sounding cars I've ever heard, even at competitions were not the winners but that's a whole different (and sore) subject.

If you're talking about certain SPL cars that have hit crazy numbers, keep in mind they're one note wonders that sound awful on music. They're usually tuned very high and are super efficient at one note. A pair of 15s will have great SPL on real music from 20hz-100hz.

So I ask one last time, what are your enclosure specs, and what are the ported ones tuned to? If I have to, I'll buy one off of someone and post the results myself. All you had to do is give out common information that EVERY other manufacturer supplies without being asked.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that should be plenty for most. I'd definitely wait until you can deaden/seal the doors also while you have them off. If not you'll be unhappy with midbass response and rattles galore



OK man...I've got 6 responses in this thread (YOUR FUCKING THREAD!) helping you and answering questions for YOUR customers and/or YOUR potential customers. Not once have I questioned your skills, past work, etc b/c I could give 2 shits about what you do or why. Your a salesman and build boxes...congrats. I've sent countless people to YOU for YOUR enclosures. One person questions something about a sub (which has nothing to do with your enclosures) and you throw a fit like a small fucking child. Great business decision btw! You're looking like a class act that I'd really want to invest my money into. Your "integrity" is just shining through right now and I'm sure your customers would just love to know that when questioned about 1 simple thing you, for some reason, turn into a little bitch because you can't answer it correctly. I think if I was paying someone $250+ to build me an enclosure, I'd want them to explain and know the reasoning they built it that way when questioned about it. Hope your business goes great box boy, because you sure wont be getting any from me or likely anyone else on here. Now why don't you take your own advice, leave the forums and fuck off

I hate cars

They're pretty. Craftsmanship appears to be top notch. Dig into car audio a little deeper and you'll see the issue that several of us have with them. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with them. I'm not saying that they don't sound great. But sometimes people need specs to plan out their system, not some guy saying don't worry about it, they're right. Sometimes you don't want factory specs. As you get more into this hobby, you NEED to know what frequency the ported boxes are tuned to and he refuses to give out the information or does not know the information. You need to know the size of the sealed box to know the Qtc of the system to know how it's going to integrate with the mids, how much eq you're going to need, what kind of SPL to expect out of it and at what power. He gets mad when you ask the most basic information about his product.

I know at first glance he seems to know his stuff but if I were guessing he does not build this product, he sells it. Nothing wrong with that.

Making statements that have been busted a long time ago like an 8" sub hits harder or tighter than a larger sub is a very bad thing to say when you're supposed to know more than all of us little peons. Just about everyone has made that statement at one time including myself but when you claim to be above everyone with a condescending attitude, that statement is unacceptable.