Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Wow man-outstanding work. Keep it up!

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

You can put a DD in a nav car. The HVAC stuff is on a different board than the radio stuff. The HVAC display will still show in the top of the center stack. Stay tuned for my install thread...

To Niebur- Looks really good. And I don't say that lightly. I get so tired of the many "slap an amp and box installs" that get all kinds of praise it is nice to see an install with some real thought to form and function. Little details like putting a cup holder back in after the DVD changer is great. Looking forward to seeing the completion of this project.

niebur3

Thanks for the very kind words and I hope the rest of this install impresses as well. I am working on sound deadening at the moment (taking a break to eat lunch) and will hopefully have more pics later tonight or early in the morning.

thait

iTrader: (2)

i give you great props for doing this!!!! i know how it felt when i did my audio and headrest monitor install. it took me 4 day of non-stop working of 16hrs on the car to get it done.

frisbeecooper

Niebur- I agree with Diamond Joe, really enjoy seeing diy's coming up with creative ideas and creating a beautiful install. I just purchased an 08 tl last week and looking forward to putting together a SQ system. Still not sure about keeping the factory radio and using the Rockford 3sixty.3. I am old school here and have a 7909 30th edition I might use. I also plan on using two esoteric audio 6 channel amps and an old alpine digital max 12. Are you planning on custom kick panels to get better imaging? I am looking forward to seeing your three way set up and how you are implementing it all in. Fantastic work so far!

CdTriX

Hey, since you already have the cubby holes out, can you do me a favor and check what's the mechanism for the latches on the cubby covers?

After i did the oem navi conversion, my bottom cubby hole doesn't close anymore. It's like -20C outside right now and I don't feel like ripping the interior apart again.

niebur3

PM me your email and I will take some pics and send them to you!

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

updates? pics? updates? pics? updates? pics???? haha

niebur3

An update....

Been working through weather and other issues, so I haven't updated in a few days. I do have some stuff done, but before I go any further I think it is time for a little porn (for us audio guys).

This is what was removed....factory system (cute little amp).


Here is what is going in.



Front Tweeters:


Front Midrange/Center Channel:



Front Midbass:



Rear Fill:


Subwoofer:



More to come.....

niebur3

Now for the amps.......

All these speakers will be driven by (3) ARC Audio 4200se. The guys at ARC have been extremely helpful and are great to talk to, especially Fred!!!!!







Here is the processor:



And I have decided to change thing up a little. I have had some issues with my factory Head Unit and therefore decided to change to using an aftermarket. Here it is:




That is it for now.

natedoggydog

Sweet head unit. Dynes. Look forward to seeing your progress and thanks for sharing it with us.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

Ahh now I am satisfied hahah thanks

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

Damn this thread is awesome. I'm looking forward to the next update

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

Are you doing kick/door/dash for the 3-ways? Or making custom locations for each?

niebur3

You got it....kick, door, dash.

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

In the word of Tracie Morgan... That head unit is " good masturbation material"... Lmaooo! But seriously, what kind of troubles did you run into with the stock h/u? Was it something isolated to yours or is it a general problem with them? Keep the pics coming (no pun intended)....

niebur3

I will be uploading more pics today. Actually it was personal experience/Acurazine that caused me to switch to the Pio head unit. I ran across a thread here asking advice about the factory HU having issues and people commenting that this is popping up more and more frequently. I then searched all the Acura factory HU as well as the 6-disc factory HU for the Honda products and found waaaay to much bad info as far as them failing. I was having an issue with mine and I thought it was the amp, and it still could be, but no longer want to deal it since it looks like I would be replacing it soon no matter what. Between that and the extra cost of getting it up and running like I want (iPod connection and extra RCA runs to get a summed signal) and the built in non-defeatable eq, the Pio seems the way to go!

spcslyusarmy

sweet setup bro...cant wait for more updates!!

niebur3

Now for some more work....

Sound Deadening pics. Pretty much self explanatory here. I also have a decoupled floor barrier that will be installed after the wiring has been run.

All sound deadening is using Cascade Audio Engineering products....awesome stuff to work with, very easy and does a great job!!!

All 4 doors deadened inside.



All 4 door look the same...here is the finished door!


Trunk lid before:


Trunk lid after:


Rear deck...kinda hard to see.


Trunk.



Plastic interior pieces. All white factory "deadening" removed, cascade deadening applied, and factory deadening re-applied with hot glue. This process was done with every plastic panel in the car. Here is an example:



The wiring is on hold at the moment as I was sent the wrong type and had to exchange, will be here by Friday. So until the, I will be starting on making ring for mounting the door speakers, fabricating kick panels for the mids, installing the tweets, etc. I will post more pics soon!

SRT-11

I was actually just going thru this thread excited because I've always wanted to accomplish what you're pulling off here, and then I saw you gave me props on the flaccid armrest fix, thanks man! You're doing an amazing job, keep it up!!!

SRT-11

Shitballsass i just saw all the dyns and arc amps i need a towel

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dude, after being on the site for a while, I'm rarely impressed with installations like this, but holy hell...everything you do is done to a "T"!!!

Great job...Thank you for sharing!

niebur3

Thanks for all the kind words so far.

niebur3

Alright...still waiting on wire, so I started working on the kicks. The goal here was that the foot rest be completely usable (since the car is a manual and the foot rest is used) and to be able to still access the fuse box (located in the drivers side kick panel). I also wanted the enclosures to be completely sealed for optimum speaker performance. The Esotar2 430's require a .005 ft^3 sealed enclosure....which is basically small enough to fit the driver.

Here are the before pictures of the kicks.
Drivers side:



Passenger side:



Trim rings:



Cutting and mounting the trim rings:



Next, I filled in the gaps using low heat plastic. I drilled holes and sanded for better adhesion with the dura-glass.


Plastic ornament thingy from Hobby Lobby attached to the back with hot glue:


More....

niebur3

Dura-glass applied:



Sanding and Rage Gold Body Filler applied and sanded:





Test fitting in the car:





I will finish these by painting them with texture to match the interior.

That is all for now!

Stepien20

iTrader: (1)

WoW! i wish i could do something like this. Your work is amazing

SRT-11

Question- what are you going to do to the electrical system to handle the (peak obviously) 360A increase? Are all three of those Arc amps rated for 120A each? that's a huge load for an alternator that's probably only rated around 100-120A...

nfnsquared

Hood release lever?

niebur3

Thanks!!!

I have thought plenty about this and I may need to upgrade the factory alternator. 10 of 12 amplifier channels will be running at 4 ohm, the last 2 are bridged together for a 4 ohm mono load (same as 2 ohm stereo). 1 amp will run the tweeters and midrange and based on the frequencies they play, the amp should "peak" at about 20 watts for each tweeter and 30 watts for each midrange. So amp 1 would peak at about 100 watts total for all 4 channels, with normal listening being probably about 50 watts. Amp 2 is running the center channel mid/tweet and rear fill. Similar situation there, especially with the MS8 and how little the rear fill is actually used, so I figure about the same output of amp 2. Amp 3 will be running the Midbass and Sub. This one will be jammin. The max is 110x2 for the midbass and 400x1 for the sub. Again, based on crossovers, the midbass will probably only draw a max of 75x2 with a normal level of probably 100 watts total between the two midbass speakers. The sub will probably draw about 200 watts normal with 400 being the peak. When I add everything together, I get a "real world" system total of 400 watts normal, with a peak of about 750 watts. 400 watts with a class a/b draws about 45 amps and 750 would draw about 87 amps. This is still not good, but I will see how the car handles it and if it has problems, I will upgrade the alternator.

Who needs one of those anyway...lol. I will reattach it to the firewall right above the kick.

VQPower37

wow glad i found this thread ... great progress, subscribing to watch this great project come together

JerZDevil

iTrader: (1)

I reeeeaally reeeaally like the kicks. I'm in the process of my install w/ the MS-8 as well. So you are using the HU signal. I never thought of getting rid of the stock amp. HMM.

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

looks good. I am getting ready to start mine w/ the JL C5-653s and it is good to see that much room in the kick. You are putting the mids right about where I am planning mine. I'm doing something a bit different w/ the midbass drivers though. Nice work keeping the pics coming and keeping us all updated. Thanks again!

I hate cars

Those kicks are awesome! I've never gone that route because I don't like the way they look, I don't want to lose any foot room and I want to look stock.

Those would solve so many problems for me. I would love to buy a set if you ever decide to make some more. IMO, your design has no compromises, it's perfect! I've always wanted to go 3 way with a fairly large woofer.

SRT-11

x2 for me. Consider me sold if you ever make these. Any concern over the necessary enclosure volume for the woofer vs. the volume of the hemispherical plastic part? Seems like doing the tweet & mid in the kicks and woofer in the door would be best as far as ideal enclosure volume is concerned...

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

Is that a 4" mid?

niebur3

If you are serious, PM me (I already have had a few people do so) and we can talk about making you a set and pricing! The enclosure size would be based on the speaker being used. The Dynaudio Esotar2 430's I am using require .01ft^3, which is basically covering the back of the speaker, but other speakers would either need a larger enclosure or no enclosure at all!

Yep. The outside of the speaker measures a little more than 4.25"

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

Cool. Thanks. I very well may rip off your idea on those kicks. I was planning lower and more protruding thinking I need the room, but it looks like I don't.

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

great progress, keep up the good work.

TRIOD3SIGNS

THIS THREAD = WIN!!!! yay

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Subbed.

Holy fucking high end.