Help Needed On Installing JL Audio 450/4 amp To The OEM Boss System

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Old 06-10-2011 | 08:11 PM
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Help Needed On Installing JL Audio 450/4 amp To The OEM Boss System

Im trying to install my JL Audio 450/4 amp into my factory boss system..using the factory 6 disc head unit...






i have a few questions...

1) To install the audio wires...you are supposed to connect each door speakers directly into your amp?..in my case its 4 channels so each speaker has a slot.. Beside the factory Subwoofer... And Also do i UNPLUG the plugs that CONNECTS THE SPEAKERS TO THE HEAD UNIT? ...if i didnt explain it clear enough its the audio wire from the head unit that is connected to your door speakers that gives audio to them..DO I DISCONNECT THOSE?

2) How do i run Audio (RCA Red and White Plugs) into my amp? When the factory head unit doesn't have the outputs for those RCA wires.. the plugs are in this picture below



3) I have a general idea on how to install the 12v Power and Ground already...i have Non-navi 07-08 base which wire from the factory harness is the remote wire??

and also if i'm missing anything else can someone help me?!?!
Old 06-10-2011 | 09:05 PM
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First of all it's Bose and not Boss! Two, our cars do NOT have a Bose sound system but the ELS 5.1 surround sound system. Since you have a 2007 model you also have the Dolby Pro Logic system in your car.

You are going to need to take the signal from after the factory amplifier and run it to your new JL amplifier. There will be 12+ wires at the factory amplifier. You will want ONLY the Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left and Rear Right speakers. Do not disconnect any sort of plugs, you will need to cut the cut off the factory wires after the amplifier and solder RCA cables to them.

Each speaker has a positive and negative wire and you'll need to put them on the RCA cable. The prong on the RCA cords is usually negative and the outside loop is positive.

Lead them to your New amplifier and make SURE that the switch is on HIGH if you are getting the signal after the factory amplifier. Then get some more RCA cables and lead them back to where you cut the factory wires and solder them onto those.

In all honesty, if you are having trouble with the RCA portion, you should read up a bit more and have a pro do the install for you.
Old 06-10-2011 | 10:14 PM
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so basically you slice the wires that connects to your door speakers...convert it to rca by solder rca to the positive and the negative...then you run that plug it into the amp...then u have to run the speaker wire from the amp all the way back to the doors correct??
Old 06-13-2011 | 10:06 AM
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You are going to smoke the factory speakers out with that amp if you are not careful. The stockies can handle a bit more power, but not that much.
Old 06-13-2011 | 10:19 PM
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^^ i understand that...but as if now i just want to correctly install the amp...if i end up blowing out the speakers...it gives me more of a reason to upgrade them ahaha...

but like i said..the factory positive and negative wire...that connects the door speakers...front right...front left...rear right and rear left...

basically i use the positive and negative...solder them to the positive and negative to the RCA wires...i understand how to do that ...i done this before...

BUT MY MAIN QUESTION IS...after i convert them...I RUN THIS WIRE ALL THE WAY TO THE AMP...so basically 4 channels each speaker has one RCA PLUG...after i plug them to the amp...the output of the amp...i have to run speaker wires back to the speakers correct??...
Old 06-13-2011 | 10:21 PM
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Yes you will need to run back to the stock speakers
Old 06-14-2011 | 08:44 AM
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I have the same amp. Wire the pre-amp (PRE-AMP) front and rear signals to some RCAs and switch the amp to low level input (200mv to 2v, or whatever it is). The pre-amp signal is around 900mv. It works great with the JL slash amps. This should take care of the input.

For the speakers, run 4 sets of wire back to the passenger kickpanel and EITHER hook up to the stock wires post-amp, or run new wires to the existing speakers. Running new wires will help if you ever do change the speakers - it will also keep you from cutting the stock post-amp wiring.
Old 06-14-2011 | 09:59 AM
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^^ thankx!! thats what i needed to hear!!...i will tackle this mod on saturday when im off...

Ill post pictures of my installs..and wiring....i just wanted to make sure everything was 100% correct and confirmed
Old 06-22-2011 | 10:51 PM
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JDA123...where did you get the remote wire signal to you amp from?? from the stock amp?..or straight from the HU?
Old 06-22-2011 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by anionrings
JDA123...where did you get the remote wire signal to you amp from?? from the stock amp?..or straight from the HU?
Switched 12v source, think slot 32 or 33 in the fuse box will work
Old 06-22-2011 | 11:15 PM
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ok ill try this tomorrow...but will only turn on when the radio turns on correct??...
Old 06-23-2011 | 10:07 AM
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Add-a-fuse on the #32. The remote wire from the stock HU to the stock amp will work, but you need to bolster the voltage... it is too low to turn on both amps even though the JL needs less power than most.
Old 06-25-2011 | 03:51 AM
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the fuse work perfect...thankx man!!...high amp down...one more to go

now all i need to do is install my 12w7...and my 1000/1 jl audio amp these will make me :dr ool:
Old 06-28-2011 | 09:52 PM
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Did you end up taking the signal before the amp or after? How are the speakers crossed over? I think there is a cap from the mid to the tweet but how about the mid? I thought that crossed over at the stock amp.
Old 06-28-2011 | 10:02 PM
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Before the amp. Set the JL amp to low level input .2 to 2V. The signal is around 900mv p2p, which should work on most decent amps... but you might have to turn the gain up to normalize.

The stock mid takes a signal from about 80 to 3500 where it appears to naturally roll off. The tweeter has a cap that appears to cross over about 3K. I am guessing on both of these. You are right, the stock amp does a low pass at about 80hz and the cap keeps the tweeter from going too low.
Old 06-29-2011 | 08:40 PM
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^^ exactly what he said...i did the #32 fuse but i hate how the amp is always on...so i ended up putting the JL amp before the Factory amp...then wire from the jl back to the stock....it works fine...

i can turn off audio to my sub anytime i want to...cause in the factory deck..u can turn off the sub...i used a step down and got audio from my factory sub towards my aftermarket sub... but my amp turns on and off whenever i turn off my radio.... which is good..

or i can jam to music without my sub...by just turning it off on the factory 6 disc changer

Edit: ill post pictures of my trunk setup soon...after i build my whole custom trunk setup...right now everything just wired up ....laying in there...no amp rack or anything...
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