Halfway there.

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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:44 PM
  #1  
geekybiker's Avatar
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From: Chicagoland
Halfway there.

I did the woofer install today. The first door took forever while I pussyfooted around how to cut the hole for the speaker. The second one was much much faster. Jigsaw with metal blades FTW. The tin snips were messy as hell and not that effective. Hooked up the the CTX65 woofers to the stock amp for now through the stock crossover the the old tweeters. Sounds a little weird, but I wanted audio until I have some more time to work on it. Anywhere know where I can find the Y to the tweeters? No sound deadening yet. It'll get there. Next project is to get the signal back to the amp. What side should I run the speaker wire back up? Power wire side, or RCA side?


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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #2  
Trunk Monkey's Avatar
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Most of the time power is ran down drivers side and you DO NOT want to run RCA's with power wire. I ran speaker wire down RCA side. For the drivers side I just threaded it underneath the nav area, etc and out to the drivers side

What "Y to the tweeters" are you talking about?

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; Jul 15, 2011 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #3  
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Most of the time power is ran down drivers side and you DO NOT want to run RCA's with power wire. I ran speaker wire down RCA side. For the drivers side I just threaded it underneath the nav area, etc and out to the drivers side

What "Y to the tweeters" are you talking about?
The tweets and woofers are both run off the same wires out of the amp and Y somewhere in the dash from what I understand. I don't know if its accessible or not. Probably easier to just drop new wire to the tweets.

Power to my amp is already run on the drivers side. If speaker wire and RCA's are okay together that makes one less time I have to disassemble everything.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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I ran all new 14ga. (16ga. is fine) wire to everything. The stock is very tiny..plus you'd have to cut the plugs, etc. I'd rather just unplug the factory mids and leave that plug in the door and run new wire, then if you ever need to take them out and put the factory one's back in it'll be simple.

Looks like a good install though Geeky. Definitely start saving for deadener and sound barriers as they'll make it come alive like it should. If you search my build thread and deadener thread you can see my list breakdown of what I used. It was PLENTY for the front doors, rear shelf, some areas in trunk, support beams along rear seat, etc. Between the CLD tiles and MLV..my door feels rock solid now. Closes very easily and feels luxurious

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; Jul 15, 2011 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #5  
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Run new wire for each of the 6.5 and the tweeter. Put your crossover in the trunk. This way, if you every go active, you already have the wire ran.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jda123
Run new wire for each of the 6.5 and the tweeter. Put your crossover in the trunk. This way, if you every go active, you already have the wire ran.
How do you get the wire into the door? I was looking for a way, but there is a solid plug where the OEM wires go through.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 03:57 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by geekybiker
How do you get the wire into the door? I was looking for a way, but there is a solid plug where the OEM wires go through.
I would buy adapters for the door speakers. That way you won't need to snake wires to the doors (Huge PITA).
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #8  
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by hp1kw
I would buy adapters for the door speakers. That way you won't need to snake wires to the doors (Huge PITA).
Yah, that's what I've done for now. Makes it a snap to wire. I'm not running huge power anyways.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #9  
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Punch a hole in the molex connector. There is the same hole in the bottom where you can easily run 2 sets of wire.

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