djspot

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I'd post my findings because of the amount of questions I've seen and the lack of clarity at times.

I decided to pick up a 5 channel amp, Alpine MRX-V70 and got rid of my Alpine PDX1.1000 amp as I'm going over to a IB sub setup and loved the idea of only having one amp running everything. Without the need for tons of power to push the IB setup, the pdx was overkill.

In doing my search on where to tap into the signal I found some conflicting info on which connector belongs to what at the stock amp and which color wire corresponded to which channel.

So here it goes.

The black connector is the signal from the headunit to the stock amp.
The light grey connector is from the stock amp to the speakers.

I used acura's wiring diagram and I found one of the wires didn't match up with what they said it was. Sorry, I forgot to note which one it was but here's what I go:

Please note that I didn't tap into the sub, center, or any other wires except for the front speakers and rear speakers. I'm currently grabbing my sub signal at the stock subwoofer location.

Black Clip/Connector

Driver side front speaker (+) - Green
Driver side front speaker (-) - Blue

Passenger side front speaker (+) - Black
Passenger side front speaker (-) - Grey

Driver side rear speaker (+) - White
Driver side rear speaker (-) - Yellow

Passeger side rear speaker (+) - Orange
Passeger side rear speaker (-) - Red


Light Grey Clip/Connector


Driver side front speaker (+) - Light Green
Driver side front speaker (-) - Purple

Passenger side front speaker (+) - Blue
Passenger side front speaker (-) - Red

Driver side rear speaker (+) - Brown/White
Driver side rear speaker (-) - Red/Yellow

Passeger side rear speaker (+) - Red/Blue
Passeger side rear speaker (-) - Yellow

My amp has speaker level inputs, so I soldered an 8 conductor wire (18 AWG) from the headunit harness at the stock amp location all the way to the trunk. The 8 conductor cable makes for a super clean run without having a bunch of wires hanging around. The cable is also shielded.

Because I got super lazy and didn't want to take apart all the panels and run speaker wire from the amp to all the speaker locations, what I did was run a second cable with the 8 conductors. This time I tapped into the speaker harness at the stock amp (light grey connector) and took advantage of the stock speaker wires.

I was expecting something to wrong, noise, missing a signal, fading not working...but everything worked out perfectly.

I have absolutely zero noise. Im very happy with the result.

My amp has a feature where it sums channel 1,2,3,4 and outputs the subwoofer. I'm going to try this next to see if I like it better than the independent input from the stock sub location after the stock amp.

Here a couple of pics of what these cables look like just in case.

speaker output


signal input


Unfortunately my phone's battery died and I couldnt get any shots of the stock amp location, but there are a bunch on the forum.

Soldering at the stock amp location is a pain in the ass, keep that in mind.

abirvalg

niebur3

For the love of God (and your car), seat those Power/Ground Wire Properly. All that bare wire is asking for your car to go up in flames.

Otherwise, nice write up!

djspot

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHA...I was waiting for someone to point that out!

I actually had just connected them real quick to make sure everything was working. Took off more off the insulation than I needed to. It was all set in place nicely after I finished up.

My borderline OCD wouldn't have allowed that! lol

pohljm

I believe you will like the summed signal will be better than the sub out