Front Speaker Recommendations '05 TL Base
the image dynamics ctx-6.5 is on sale for 115 today only on sonicelectronix. use coupon code 41fool.
if this deal was around when i was buying speakers i would have gone this route.
if this deal was around when i was buying speakers i would have gone this route.
Hi guys,
I have a set of CTX65CS speakers in my Integra that I'd like to transfer over. My question is how to either wire up the crossover or what capacitor I'll need for the tweeter.
I'm not planning to install an amp.
I couldn't find a lot of information as to what capacitor to use. The only information I found was people using the stock capacitor. But also that using the stock capacitor could result in blowing the new tweeters.
Thanks in advance!
I have a set of CTX65CS speakers in my Integra that I'd like to transfer over. My question is how to either wire up the crossover or what capacitor I'll need for the tweeter.
I'm not planning to install an amp.
I couldn't find a lot of information as to what capacitor to use. The only information I found was people using the stock capacitor. But also that using the stock capacitor could result in blowing the new tweeters.
Thanks in advance!
Hi guys,
I have a set of CTX65CS speakers in my Integra that I'd like to transfer over. My question is how to either wire up the crossover or what capacitor I'll need for the tweeter.
I'm not planning to install an amp.
I couldn't find a lot of information as to what capacitor to use. The only information I found was people using the stock capacitor. But also that using the stock capacitor could result in blowing the new tweeters.
Thanks in advance!
I have a set of CTX65CS speakers in my Integra that I'd like to transfer over. My question is how to either wire up the crossover or what capacitor I'll need for the tweeter.
I'm not planning to install an amp.
I couldn't find a lot of information as to what capacitor to use. The only information I found was people using the stock capacitor. But also that using the stock capacitor could result in blowing the new tweeters.
Thanks in advance!
Answer is in Farads but most likely you need to convert it to micro farads (uf) so just move the decimal point 6 places to the right.
C is obviously your capacitor.
Pi is commonly 3.14 if you want to get super accurate use the pi button in the calculator.
F is your desired frequency cut off in hz, i set mine on my jbls at 2500 hz.
Omega is your impedance, mine measured on my tweeters was 3 even though the component set was listed as 2.3
That should do it.
I also put a cap on the speaker to cut off everything below 80hz using the same formula. The jbl cross over they came with had a cut off at 65hz for the speakers but I was more comfortable with 80hz.
Good luck
Last edited by mikezpc; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Xover info
Thanks man!! Any recommendations on frequency for cutoff?
Formula for selecting a capacitor is C=1/(2 x Pi x F x Omega)
Answer is in Farads but most likely you need to convert it to micro farads (uf) so just move the decimal point 6 places to the right.
C is obviously your capacitor.
Pi is commonly 3.14 if you want to get super accurate use the pi button in the calculator.
F is your desired frequency cut off in hz, i set mine on my jbls at 2500 hz.
Omega is your impedance, mine measured on my tweeters was 3 even though the component set was listed as 2.3
That should do it.
I also put a cap on the speaker to cut off everything below 80hz using the same formula. The jbl cross over they came with had a cut off at 65hz for the speakers but I was more comfortable with 80hz.
Good luck
Answer is in Farads but most likely you need to convert it to micro farads (uf) so just move the decimal point 6 places to the right.
C is obviously your capacitor.
Pi is commonly 3.14 if you want to get super accurate use the pi button in the calculator.
F is your desired frequency cut off in hz, i set mine on my jbls at 2500 hz.
Omega is your impedance, mine measured on my tweeters was 3 even though the component set was listed as 2.3
That should do it.
I also put a cap on the speaker to cut off everything below 80hz using the same formula. The jbl cross over they came with had a cut off at 65hz for the speakers but I was more comfortable with 80hz.
Good luck
You're welcome. I'm happy with mine, 2500 for tweeters and 80 for door speakers, along with some sound deadening in the doors it made a substantial difference to my ears. You can do your math for 65hz if you want to try and get a bit more out of them. You can also call the manufacturer of yours and ask which fq their crossover cuts off for both of the tweeters and speakers unless you have those in the specs. Mine didn't, i had to call. I soldered wire terminals on my caps to make it easy for plug and play so you can also do that with a few different caps and see which one sound best to you
I agree.
4-ch for main.
1-ch for sub.
Leave F center alone.
Are you going to get a 4-ch amp with Hi-Level Inputs ?
Basically running the 4 speaker wires to the amp
Hi-Level input, then 4 wires from the amp back to
The 4 main speakers ? I also want to add a 4-ch for
The 4 main speakers. 50wrms clean each "min".
4-ch for main.
1-ch for sub.
Leave F center alone.
Are you going to get a 4-ch amp with Hi-Level Inputs ?
Basically running the 4 speaker wires to the amp
Hi-Level input, then 4 wires from the amp back to
The 4 main speakers ? I also want to add a 4-ch for
The 4 main speakers. 50wrms clean each "min".
Shoot me a message regarding custom boxes, Depending on price I'd be willing to put some money in a weekend laborers hands over a big company!!
No such thing as too much power. Just set the gains accordingly and enjoy the extra dynamics and more life-like sound with the extra headroom. This is why my midbasses get 300w each even though they likely average under 50w. It allows them to reproduce the short musical peaks accurately and without distortion.
The main thing is not running a 6.5" below 80hz. There's just not enough cone area for any appreciable output below there but it usually raises distortion considerably. I cross my 9" midbass at 68-70hz because I finally figured out that midbass impact that I thought I was lacking was in the 200-400hz range and not 50-60hz. I realized this after I installed the 9s so they live an easy life with a very safe crossover point. You'll find that your midrange usually improves considerably when you don't cross them too low. If you don't like loud music you can get away with a lower crossover point.
I've gone way off topic but I've heard good and bad things about the C2 set. I think any of the C series are fine but don't go any lower. I went with some TRs in my old POS commuter car and I think I was better off with the stock speakers. If you could swing the C5 set, that would be musical bliss.
I know the contributors in this thread have gotten tired of me changing ideas, but thats merely because I see people in TLs do things different ways. I wanted to replace the fronts and rears, then was told only the fronts. I wanted to run a 4 channel for insides, then it seems I can just run a 2 channel.
Its not so much indecisciveness, but trying to learn from others whom have done an upgrade. I still fear that changing just the 2 in the front and adding an amp to them will shift the majority of the sound to the front of the car, vs evenly in the car but I guess I'll find out.
Its not so much indecisciveness, but trying to learn from others whom have done an upgrade. I still fear that changing just the 2 in the front and adding an amp to them will shift the majority of the sound to the front of the car, vs evenly in the car but I guess I'll find out.
I know the contributors in this thread have gotten tired of me changing ideas, but thats merely because I see people in TLs do things different ways. I wanted to replace the fronts and rears, then was told only the fronts. I wanted to run a 4 channel for insides, then it seems I can just run a 2 channel.
Its not so much indecisciveness, but trying to learn from others whom have done an upgrade. I still fear that changing just the 2 in the front and adding an amp to them will shift the majority of the sound to the front of the car, vs evenly in the car but I guess I'll find out.
Its not so much indecisciveness, but trying to learn from others whom have done an upgrade. I still fear that changing just the 2 in the front and adding an amp to them will shift the majority of the sound to the front of the car, vs evenly in the car but I guess I'll find out.
The sound should come from the front. Once you have an actual stage from processing where every instrument is placed on the windshield from pillar to pillar and out on the hood, you'll never want anything else. You can hear where the singer is, where the drums are, where every instrument was at the time of recording. Your drum hits that come from the subs sound like they're coming from the windshield where the drums are placed. Once you have processing, it doesn't matter too much where the actual speakers are at, they will project an image up front and you would t know where the speakers are located without being able to see them. This would be all but impossible with rear speakers.
I think you should at least give upgrading the fronts a chance. Once you get used to a well tuned front stage you probably won't want the rears again.
I think you should at least give upgrading the fronts a chance. Once you get used to a well tuned front stage you probably won't want the rears again.
Exactly what IHC stated, the sound should be come from the front. That's all that really matters. I ran my last car with only a front sound stage with no rear fill and I never felt like I was missing out on anything.
BTW I have a set of barely used Crescendo Mezzo components that I'm looking to part with. PM if interested.
Mezzo Series 6.5" Reference 2 Way - Crescendo Audio Factory Direct Online Store
BTW I have a set of barely used Crescendo Mezzo components that I'm looking to part with. PM if interested.
Mezzo Series 6.5" Reference 2 Way - Crescendo Audio Factory Direct Online Store
The sound should come from the front. Once you have an actual stage from processing where every instrument is placed on the windshield from pillar to pillar and out on the hood, you'll never want anything else. You can hear where the singer is, where the drums are, where every instrument was at the time of recording. Your drum hits that come from the subs sound like they're coming from the windshield where the drums are placed. Once you have processing, it doesn't matter too much where the actual speakers are at, they will project an image up front and you would t know where the speakers are located without being able to see them. This would be all but impossible with rear speakers.
I think you should at least give upgrading the fronts a chance. Once you get used to a well tuned front stage you probably won't want the rears again.
I think you should at least give upgrading the fronts a chance. Once you get used to a well tuned front stage you probably won't want the rears again.
But what im going to do it just run a 2 channel for the fronts, leave the rears on the stock amp... and add the sub and a single amp for that. Add in an isimple unit for bluetooth and all that stuff, and that should get me everything.
I've been debating upgrading my mids/highs for years. I'm running a 4 channel to the stock speakers and it's just not enough with the windows down. Gonna go listen to the C5's.
A couple of questions: Are you guys referring to the c5-650's? The crossover looks pretty complex, is it easy to set up? Is this configuration a direct replacement for the factory speakers?
A couple of questions: Are you guys referring to the c5-650's? The crossover looks pretty complex, is it easy to set up? Is this configuration a direct replacement for the factory speakers?
ctx 65 cs...many members have them and they are phenomenal for their price range. i switched out my JBL's for these when they had a black friday sale last year. I can give you full details on how to mount and all that stuff if you want
The Image Dynamics CTX 65CS is an outstanding set of component speakers for their respective price range. Just so happens WoofersEct is offering a 20% discount for ALL Image Dynamics equipment. For those interesting in Active system, they offer the XS-28 and the X-65 Midbass Drivers separately w/o passive crossover at half the price of the XS-65 Component set. I ordered the XS-28 and X-65 to upgrade the audio system in my Audi A5. Good luck with your install.
i would be interested in the install procedure. Thanks in advance.
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