dcrandon

Hello Everyone,

Just bought an '04 TL and I'm pretty disappointed in the stock stereo. Especially the muddy base.

So, I'm planning on upgrading. I've done a lot of reading around this wonderful forum, but much of the info I've come across is older and/or contradictory.

So, indulge me if you will with some basic premises. Correct me if I'm wrong.


1. It is a 5.1 system. R/L Front full range(with tweeters)
R/L Rear full range
Rear subwoofer
Front Center

2. All speakers driven full range with the exception of the front tweeters and subwoofer.
the front tweeters have a passive crossover attached to them.
the rear sub has a low pass crossover, but is it located in the amp or the head unit?

3. The built-in speaker/cabin acoustics equalization is located in the head unit. Since most of the equalization being done is for the cabin, rather than the stock speakers, it's not that bad if it's affecting any new speakers I get as well?

4. The head unit produces a high enough line output for all 6 channels to sufficiently drive an aftermarket amp

5. All 6 channels of line outputs, as well as the remote turn on wire, are input into the back of the stock amp, so they should be easy to get to.

I am planning on not using the stock amp at all, as it apparently has a very high level of distortion (presumbably THD and IM) of about 5-10% and max RMS output.

6. If this is easy as plug-in-play, I won't lose any of my nav or handsfree speaker functions.

Please help me out everyone, correct what I've got wrong, and things in if you'd like.

David

PS. My goals are realistic reproduction of music, loud, but with low distortion. Accurate freq response (no bass boom).

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

If you're just replacing the speakers, you should have no problem with compatibility with anything else. You're just doing a remove and replace. Go for it!

dcrandon

No, I'll be doing the amp as well. I've heard that because the speakers are 2ohm, and almost all aftermarket speakers are 4ohm, I'll be losing half the power, so if the new speakers are the same efficiency, they won't be as loud. Even if they are 3db more efficient, to get the same volume, I'd still like it a little louder. Perhaps another 4-6db more than stock.

David

Zoser

1. It is a 5.1 system. R/L Front full range(with tweeters)
R/L Rear full range
Rear subwoofer
Front Center
[Correct]

2. All speakers driven full range with the exception of the front tweeters and subwoofer.
the front tweeters have a passive crossover attached to them.
the rear sub has a low pass crossover, but is it located in the amp or the head unit?
[I think this is correct. Not sure where the crossover is. Do a search if you haven't already.]

3. The built-in speaker/cabin acoustics equalization is located in the head unit. Since most of the equalization being done is for the cabin, rather than the stock speakers, it's not that bad if it's affecting any new speakers I get as well?
[The equalization was done to try to compensate for the low quality amp and speakers imo. I'm sure the cabin's characteristics were also addressed. I used the rear channels for all four speakers bc it has less equalization distortion]

4. The head unit produces a high enough line output for all 6 channels to sufficiently drive an aftermarket amp
[No. They are only 1v and most aftermarket amps use 5v. Adding a linedriver degrades it even further. Many have static/buzzing from pre-amp signals and wound up using the post amp signals with LOCs. I used all post-amp signals with a Navone LOC]

5. All 6 channels of line outputs, as well as the remote turn on wire, are input into the back of the stock amp, so they should be easy to get to.
[Yes they are but the Line In on the stock amp is only 8v and will not turn on an aftermarket amp as I found out. Some use the circuit box by the hood release(do a search) others use the cigarette lighter in the center console. I tapped the big black wire going from the circuit box to the ignition. Then I tapped this line to go to my second amp.]

I am planning on not using the stock amp at all, as it apparently has a very high level of distortion (presumbably THD and IM) of about 5-10% and max RMS output.
[I used all post amp signals so I kept the stock amp. I still use it to amp the center channel (used for Navi, HFL and DVD Audio). The other outputs went to a 4 channel amp under my seat and a sub amp mounted to a 10" sub enclosure box.]

6. If this is easy as plug-in-play, I won't lose any of my nav or handsfree speaker functions.
[I wouldn't say it was easy but I did most of the work by starting here: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/questions-adding-sub-amp-120614/ ]

Greengecko

Yeah, I wouldn't call it "easy" either, but if you're an audioophile, definitely worth it! Definitely go by what Zoser said, using LOCs on your post-stock-amp signal. It is definitely the way to go for simplicity's sake (or you can go crazy like I did and get a 3Sixty.2, but it's overkill as I found out after trying both ways).

The only heads-up I would give you is to select a remote turn-on that can turns off when you turn off the head unit. Cause I used the stock amp remote, and that's always on because of the navi system (which has to always be ready), so my amps are always on (which I'm planning on changing soon).

dcrandon

Ok, a few wrap up questions and comments:

anyone know if the sub crossover is in the stock amp, or the headunit?

"4. The head unit produces a high enough line output for all 6 channels to sufficiently drive an aftermarket amp
[No. They are only 1v and most aftermarket amps use 5v. Adding a linedriver degrades it even further. Many have static/buzzing from pre-amp signals and wound up using the post amp signals with LOCs. I used all post-amp signals with a Navone LOC]"

I cringe at using the stock amp to drive an aftermarket amp. I've heard the stock amp simply sucks at distortion. There has to be a way to use a line driver without introducing noise, yes.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Dave

csmeance

the stockie distors at around 35+ volume on the HU.