Factory Tweeters & Wiring?

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Old 04-25-2018, 02:07 PM
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MI6
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Factory Tweeters & Wiring?

I just installed a Pioneer HU in my 2006 TL and want to replace the front speakers. I have a pair of JBL component speakers but am wondering if I can use the factory wiring. I currently have the F/L and F/R pos/neg wires at the factory amp area spliced/wired to my 4-channel amp in the trunk and it powers both the stock speakers and their tweeter perfectly. But now I want to install aftermarket speakers and tweeters and I have a box that came with it (a crossover?). Not sure how to install the crossover thing. Do I need it? Does the factory wiring already have one built in? Should I just leave it alone and connect the JBL’s to the factory wires and skip the crossover thing or go through the hassle of rewiring the whole front end? Thank you!
Old 04-25-2018, 06:48 PM
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Burning Brakes
 
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The front door speakers amd tweeters in dash are connected in parallel. You do nitnwant to connect your aftermarket tweeters to tye stock wiring but you cqn use the stock wiring for the door speakers which saves lots of work. You should be able to drop a wire down through the hole amd fiah it out somewhere but I am not sure where exactly... Probably an old thread somewhere that explains better. I use the stock wiring and connect my twweter crossover components near the tweeter and stuff them in the dash. I dont recommend this for you however.
Old 04-27-2018, 11:39 AM
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MI6
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Thank you very much. I took your advice and used the factory wiring for the door speakers and ran new wires from the tweeters to the crossovers.

Everything works great except for one thing: the “NEX” AVH-2300 Pioneer head unit is way beyond anything I’ve ever used before with sound control.

I have no clue how to use the built-in hi pass, low pass, mid-range or the electronic crossovers. Simply put—it sounds like a$$.

Everything is connected properly I just don’t know what settings are good to use other than the “Standard Mode” and NOT the “Network Mode”.

Combined with my the settings on my amps I am screwed. For what it’s worth this is my system:

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX Head Unit

Front Speakers: JBL 6.5” components (GTO609C)
  • power range: 5-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
  • sensitivity: 93 dB

Rear Speakers: Alpine Type-R 2-way coax 6.5” (SPR-60)
  • 6.5"-inch Car audio 2-way speakers (pair)
  • RMS Power Handling: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each / PEAK Power Handling: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each
  • Frequency Response: 70-29 KHz
  • Sensitivity: 86 dB

Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate P3D2 - 10
  • 10-inch, dual 2-ohm subwoofer with 1000 watts maximum power handling (500 watts RMS)

Amp # 1: Rockford R400-4D 4-channel
  • On-board peq (punch equalization) with 18 db. of boost @ 45hz
  • 2/4 channel switch, 4 Gauge power/ground connectors.Frequency Response 20Hz to 20kHz +/-1dB
  • 12Db/octave crossover
Amp # 2: Kenwood KAC-8105D
  • 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
  • variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
  • bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
  • subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )
  • Class D


Old 04-28-2018, 10:23 PM
  #4  
Burning Brakes
 
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Originally Posted by MI6
Thank you very much. I took your advice and used the factory wiring for the door speakers and ran new wires from the tweeters to the crossovers.

Everything works great except for one thing: the “NEX” AVH-2300 Pioneer head unit is way beyond anything I’ve ever used before with sound control.

I have no clue how to use the built-in hi pass, low pass, mid-range or the electronic crossovers. Simply put—it sounds like a$$.

Everything is connected properly I just don’t know what settings are good to use other than the “Standard Mode” and NOT the “Network Mode”.

Combined with my the settings on my amps I am screwed. For what it’s worth this is my system:

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX Head Unit

Front Speakers: JBL 6.5” components (GTO609C)
  • power range: 5-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)
  • impedance: 3 ohms
  • frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
  • sensitivity: 93 dB

Rear Speakers: Alpine Type-R 2-way coax 6.5” (SPR-60)
  • 6.5"-inch Car audio 2-way speakers (pair)
  • RMS Power Handling: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each / PEAK Power Handling: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each
  • Frequency Response: 70-29 KHz
  • Sensitivity: 86 dB

Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate P3D2 - 10
  • 10-inch, dual 2-ohm subwoofer with 1000 watts maximum power handling (500 watts RMS)

Amp # 1: Rockford R400-4D 4-channel
  • On-board peq (punch equalization) with 18 db. of boost @ 45hz
  • 2/4 channel switch, 4 Gauge power/ground connectors.Frequency Response 20Hz to 20kHz +/-1dB
  • 12Db/octave crossover
Amp # 2: Kenwood KAC-8105D
  • 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
  • variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
  • bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
  • subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )
  • Class D


Seems like alot of potential there for a good sounding system. As your head unit has crossover control you could run "active" and ditch the crossover boxes that come with your front components but that is alittle complicated and also brings the possibility of frying your tweeters if not done correctly.

To simplify things turn off all the extras on your head unit and use the amps crossovers. Set the high pass filter for the front channels to 70. Set high pass filter on rear channels to 80 and turn them down so you hardly hear them or not at all from the front. Turn low pass filter on sub channel to 60. See how that sounds. There is a good chance you will have to adjust the crossovers or polarity of the sub to get it to integrate with the front components. Be patient and make adjustments until it sounds good.

start reading up on this stuff so you can eventually make themost of the equipment you have or takeit to someone who knows how to do it.

Good luck!
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