dynamat??
#2
I currently have 2 Alpine Type-Rs in my trunk. Personally, they are too powerfull. Obviously that all depends on your Amp but I just actually had a custom 12inch box made to fit in the corner of my trunk. I am going to get rid of my other 12 and just leave one as I usually keep my bass and sub equalizer to -2.
If you crank up the bass even with 2 10's you are going to hear rattling in your rear deck, thats just a fact. I also had some rattling in my trunk when my bass was cranked up and especially in that little carbon fiber license plate insert thingy.
Just installed dynamat yesterday (all on the trunk floor, behind the little carbon fiber license plate thing, on the trunk lid, and on the entire rear deck). I will tell you that after only listening to it for about an hour the sound is amazing. No more thumping, no more rattles and even when my subs are cranked all the way up the sound stays sealed in the car. Install only took an hour besides taking your entire car apart to remove the trunk liner and rear deck.
Only negative thing I can think of is that my trunk is heavier now so it does not pop open on the trunk realease....it still opens, but no longer the 3 or 4 inches it used to.
If you crank up the bass even with 2 10's you are going to hear rattling in your rear deck, thats just a fact. I also had some rattling in my trunk when my bass was cranked up and especially in that little carbon fiber license plate insert thingy.
Just installed dynamat yesterday (all on the trunk floor, behind the little carbon fiber license plate thing, on the trunk lid, and on the entire rear deck). I will tell you that after only listening to it for about an hour the sound is amazing. No more thumping, no more rattles and even when my subs are cranked all the way up the sound stays sealed in the car. Install only took an hour besides taking your entire car apart to remove the trunk liner and rear deck.
Only negative thing I can think of is that my trunk is heavier now so it does not pop open on the trunk realease....it still opens, but no longer the 3 or 4 inches it used to.
#3
Most likely inside the cabin, it is going to sound clean bass..
But, if you are concerned about the rattles coming from outside in the trunk, and people crying...
Then most likely you will have to go with dynamat. There is also another product you can use, secondskin. Cheaper but works just about the same.
But, if you are concerned about the rattles coming from outside in the trunk, and people crying...
Then most likely you will have to go with dynamat. There is also another product you can use, secondskin. Cheaper but works just about the same.
#7
why not get peel and seal from lowels?. same has dynamat but more cheaper. around $16 every 25ft, i just did my entire car front panel door, trunk, rear speakers, no rattle and i have a pretty good system.
boston pro 60 components front
mm6501 polk component rear
1 alpine typer r 12" ported box,
alpine m450 400w
alpine f600 150x4 for all speakers
i read about sound stage and how to have only front speakers but i have tried and don't really like it. i prefer full sound
boston pro 60 components front
mm6501 polk component rear
1 alpine typer r 12" ported box,
alpine m450 400w
alpine f600 150x4 for all speakers
i read about sound stage and how to have only front speakers but i have tried and don't really like it. i prefer full sound
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#8
See if you can live with it. At some point anything will rattle, so see if your point is in a livable range.
I have 2 12" Fi Qs on a KX2500.1 without dynamat. It doesn't rattle at normal listening, but will rattle the heck out of anything (even with dynamat) if you crank it. At some point, dynamat is purely academic...and you cannot listen to the stereo at high volume all of the time.
The dynamat makes a huge difference in the doors if you start to power some components or something..
I too like the rear speakers for the sound, but found that I can live with the stock ones.
I have 2 12" Fi Qs on a KX2500.1 without dynamat. It doesn't rattle at normal listening, but will rattle the heck out of anything (even with dynamat) if you crank it. At some point, dynamat is purely academic...and you cannot listen to the stereo at high volume all of the time.
The dynamat makes a huge difference in the doors if you start to power some components or something..
I too like the rear speakers for the sound, but found that I can live with the stock ones.
#9
#10
Isn't that asphalt and smells really bad, Not sure I can sacrifice driving around in a tar cooking truck, to compromise a little better audio.
why not get peel and seal from lowels?. same has dynamat but more cheaper. around $16 every 25ft, i just did my entire car front panel door, trunk, rear speakers, no rattle and i have a pretty good system.
boston pro 60 components front
mm6501 polk component rear
1 alpine typer r 12" ported box,
alpine m450 400w
alpine f600 150x4 for all speakers
i read about sound stage and how to have only front speakers but i have tried and don't really like it. i prefer full sound
boston pro 60 components front
mm6501 polk component rear
1 alpine typer r 12" ported box,
alpine m450 400w
alpine f600 150x4 for all speakers
i read about sound stage and how to have only front speakers but i have tried and don't really like it. i prefer full sound
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