Drawing power from the battery, dangerous?

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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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Coins's Avatar
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Drawing power from the battery, dangerous?

So today I recieved my OEM accord fogs for my TL and wired it all up.

I had read over guitarplayer's DIY thread before I ordered them so I knew what had to be done.
He tapped into the parking lights to draw power from.

The setup I have AckTl05 told me to draw power from the battery, so I grounded the wire and put the wire on the positive, all goes well, fog lights up and react to the switch.

AckTL05 had pre-wired them to basically make the fogs plug and play which was great!

My only concern is, will this ever cause any electrical problem? I know AckTL05 knows what hes doing, i'm sure hes done it many times before but I just want to be careful since my brothers electrical system got fried when he had his subwoofer in.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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I hate cars's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield
All power comes from the battery. Is there a relay and fuse in the system? If so I see no problems.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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The battery is generally the best place for any real load beyond a few amps. It's going to be awfully hard to 'screw up your electrical system' from running halogen fog lights directly off the battery. If theyre cheap non-OEM HID ballasts, then things can get a bit more dicey, but right off the battery is still the only place to run the power from. Don't run the ground through the chassis.

The relay is only going to protect your switch, which isn't required depending on how its installed. The fuse is only going to protect the wires, which should be thin enough to fairly 'safely' melt if theres a serious issue. But yeah, a fuse closely matched to peak current consumption is a good idea.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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These fogs are the OEM 03-05 accord fogs that I wired

There is a relay but there is no fuse for the fog harness, only the switch inside the cabin.

Here are a few pictures
The relay: https://i.imgur.com/Hhv8Vl.jpg
The ground: https://i.imgur.com/C8vEkl.jpg

The relay location will change once I actually fit the fogs
I'll probably change the ground location as well.

Last edited by Coins; Jun 8, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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Also what kind of connector do you guys recommend for the wire that goes to the battery? It's just bare wire right now but its disconnected so no worries.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:43 AM
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Sorry for the triple post
This is what I read that made me want to double check with you guys

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=817615&page=3

Post #107-109
I have a relay but there's no fuse I physically see on the harness
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 02:13 AM
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From: Bakersfield
Originally Posted by ZOMGVTEK
The battery is generally the best place for any real load beyond a few amps. It's going to be awfully hard to 'screw up your electrical system' from running halogen fog lights directly off the battery. If theyre cheap non-OEM HID ballasts, then things can get a bit more dicey, but right off the battery is still the only place to run the power from. Don't run the ground through the chassis.

The relay is only going to protect your switch, which isn't required depending on how its installed. The fuse is only going to protect the wires, which should be thin enough to fairly 'safely' melt if theres a serious issue. But yeah, a fuse closely matched to peak current consumption is a good idea.
You might want to rethink that logic.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ZOMGVTEK
The battery is generally the best place for any real load beyond a few amps. It's going to be awfully hard to 'screw up your electrical system' from running halogen fog lights directly off the battery. If theyre cheap non-OEM HID ballasts, then things can get a bit more dicey, but right off the battery is still the only place to run the power from. Don't run the ground through the chassis.

The relay is only going to protect your switch, which isn't required depending on how its installed. The fuse is only going to protect the wires, which should be thin enough to fairly 'safely' melt if theres a serious issue. But yeah, a fuse closely matched to peak current consumption is a good idea.
Wires melting??? That is a serious issue, there is no "safely" in wires melting... Fuses are there to prevent wires from melting... I agree with IHC that you need to rethink the logic in which you have posted...
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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lol
So does anyone recommend an in-line fuse just to be safe?
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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From: Bakersfield
Originally Posted by Coins
lol
So does anyone recommend an in-line fuse just to be safe?
He actually got it right, fuses protect wiring and equipment and relays protect switches and they keep you from running full battery voltage inside of the car where it can do damage and cause problems. He just failed to see the importance in implementing these very basic safety devices.

Every electrical system must have a fuse installed as close to the power source as possible and small enough so that it blows before the wiring catches something on fire in the event of a short.

As for the relay, would you rather have the in car switch flowing several amps worth of power or would you rather it flow a couple miliamps to a relay? The relay is safer and reducing the power the switch has to handle has several benefits but it's not completely necessary.

With that said, I have no idea how your system is set up but if it does not have a fuse, add one. If you're pulling power straight off of the battery, add a fuse near the battery. I've seen cars burn from not using fuses. I've caught my GN on fire when I was young from wiring my fans straight to the passenger compartment with no relay or fuse. A fuse is a must.
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