Disconnecting OEM Sub?

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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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Disconnecting OEM Sub?

I have the LOC for my amp tapped in at the rear, so I was wondering if disconnecting the rear sub would adversely affect that?

If not, is there a way I can just disconnect it by cutting a wire or something by if I go in through the trunk? I'd prefer to not have to remove my rear seats to get to it from the top...
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by WDPinit
I have the LOC for my amp tapped in at the rear, so I was wondering if disconnecting the rear sub would adversely affect that?

If not, is there a way I can just disconnect it by cutting a wire or something by if I go in through the trunk? I'd prefer to not have to remove my rear seats to get to it from the top...
do you or will you have a sub in the trunk? if so you want to remove the stock sub anyway...so in my mind, remove the rear seats (if you've done it before it should honestly take you 15 min tops by yourself), disconnect the sub, and remove the sub.
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
do you or will you have a sub in the trunk? if so you want to remove the stock sub anyway...so in my mind, remove the rear seats (if you've done it before it should honestly take you 15 min tops by yourself), disconnect the sub, and remove the sub.
Yeah I already do have one. I guess the rear speakers can go too and there won't be issues with the LOC? Haven't done it before, but if it only takes that much time then I'm all for it. Probably will wait a few weeks until my sound deadening comes in so I can slap some on while I'm at it
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 02:39 PM
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Shit, is it necessary to remove the c pillar trim as well? Messing around where the air bag is worries me...
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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d/c the battery.
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WDPinit
Yeah I already do have one. I guess the rear speakers can go too and there won't be issues with the LOC? Haven't done it before, but if it only takes that much time then I'm all for it. Probably will wait a few weeks until my sound deadening comes in so I can slap some on while I'm at it
are you not running the oem speakers off the oem amp? if you are still using the oem amp, just leave the speakers in there they will provide some fill for the music. no need to disconnect or remove those.

Originally Posted by WDPinit
Shit, is it necessary to remove the c pillar trim as well? Messing around where the air bag is worries me...
c pillar needs to come off to remove the deck to access the speakers. you won't be doing anything with the airbags, those clips are just letting you know there's an airbag in the pillar. you pop out that clip, then pull the panel off, the airbag is constrained tightly against the car body...it's released electrically so you will be ok.

if it's your first time it might take you 45 min or so, just be careful about ripping any of the seats or anything else there are some sharp items on the bottom of the seats
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 06:04 PM
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Yeah, I'm going to run a 2 channel to my front stage, but ig I will keep the rears. Thanks for the heads up on the c pillar and sharp edges. I hope 36 sqft of Roadkill will be enough for both doors, trunk lid, rear tire well, and rear deck haha.
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WDPinit
Yeah, I'm going to run a 2 channel to my front stage, but ig I will keep the rears. Thanks for the heads up on the c pillar and sharp edges. I hope 36 sqft of Roadkill will be enough for both doors, trunk lid, rear tire well, and rear deck haha.
i would do rear tire well last, i would do it in this order: the doors are most important for reducing sound and improving mid bass, the deck is mostly to remove any rattles, and the trunk just gives better overall sound. put up pics when you're done!
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
i would do rear tire well last, i would do it in this order: the doors are most important for reducing sound and improving mid bass, the deck is mostly to remove any rattles, and the trunk just gives better overall sound. put up pics when you're done!
Oops, I meant spare tire well lol. I'll def do that last but I think the other are all necessary for me. I hear more rattles than I want to hear for sure! Trunk lid will actually be the first in my case, because of the ease and most rattles come from there haha. I def agree with you in the doors, personally haven't used deadener before but I think after researching it, adding a good amp to speakers is kinda pointless without deadening lol. I'm not doing the amp myself, but doing the deadening myself will def save money on my end. My installer will prob leave the door panels off and put the clips in a bag if I ask. Makes doing the deadening that much easier!
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 04:53 PM
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I killed all the rattles in my trunk lid by loosening the trunk latch, and adjusting it down until I had to use a little force to close the trunk.

rear deck rattle is the vents that connect the airspace of the trunk and cabin. pull upper trunk liner and you'll see a bunch of holes on each side of the trunk light. duct tape or whatever you want to use to cover them and thatll be nearly all the rattle from there gone.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SocomM4
I killed all the rattles in my trunk lid by loosening the trunk latch, and adjusting it down until I had to use a little force to close the trunk.

rear deck rattle is the vents that connect the airspace of the trunk and cabin. pull upper trunk liner and you'll see a bunch of holes on each side of the trunk light. duct tape or whatever you want to use to cover them and thatll be nearly all the rattle from there gone.
Thanks, I'll try those out. I did the rear deck thing and it helped some but not too much sadly. The other thing about deadening is it makes the bass louder and tighter, always a plus
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