JPerkMr954

I have seen that Uncld4 is no longer on the forum, as that is who I was looking to purchase an enclosure from. Is he still able to be contacted for orders, or is there any other options?

pohljm

Pfffffft

JPerkMr954

So I take it that there are no other options.... smh

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=12&page=1
http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=12&page=1
http://www.audiointegrations.net/cat...75/8253904.htm

JPerkMr954

Thank You.... I'll look into this further.... I'm going to see if anyone knows how to trackdown UNCLD4 still, and see what can be done...

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I've had the wicked cas 12" box for about 5-6 years and have had no problems.

RU_JELLY

iTrader: (1)

ya ive heard good things about those

I hate cars

I believe Uncald4 is still around in other sections. His boxes were on the small side and he refused to give basic specs like enclosure volume and tuning frequency which have a HUGE effect on the sound quality and efficiency. I won't get into it again but if you're worried about sound quality, the other enclosures mentioned should work very well, at least comparable if not better than Uncald4.

This is also highly dependent on the sub you're going with as I'm sure the ones that required less airspace sounded fine in the Uncald4 enclosures, the sealed ones anyway.

JPerkMr954

Ive decided that I am going to go with a JL subwoofer.... probably the w3 in a 10 inch or 12 inch... Someone told me JL made an enclosure for our Gen 3s but I havent looked into it yet...

JPerkMr954

what sub are you using... and what type of power?

I hate cars

I just looked at their website and unfortunately I did not see one for our cars. That would have been pretty nice because they put a lot of r&d into their stealthboxes.

One thing to remember about JL and pretty much all sub makers is that the recommended enclosure sizes are on the small side in order to sell more subs since people don't want to take up a lot of trunk space. The larger the enclosure the less power you will need for a given output and the flatter the response will be. You end up with tighter, more punchy, quicker, and deeper bass with a larger enclosure.

You can always do what I did. Go infinite baffle and retain even more of your trunk space. I have a pair of 15s and more than 90% of my trunk is still usable and since the entire trunk is the enclosure, the bass is incredibly tight and punchy and very little power is needed.

I really like the JL subs. Remember with JL, the higher the number the better sound quality and the more output it will have. The W7 will sound better and get louder than the W6 and the W6 will get louder and sound better than the W3. All are sound quality subs first and foremost including the W7.

Bigger is better when it comes to subs whether your goal is output, sound quality, or both. Larger subs require less power, offer lower distortion, and more output.

For what it's worth, the 13W3 has almost as much displacement as two 12W3s and 2.5 10W3s. The 10W3 will require double the power for the same output of the 12W3 and more than double the power to equal the same output as the 13W3. The main point being go as large as you're able to fit in the required airspace and you can save money by using a less powerful amp on the larger subs.

One last thing, ported has some big advantages over sealed but I've already gone too far off topic.

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I started with a 12w6v2 on a pdx-1.600 but now I'm running a 12w6v3 off the sub channel of a hd900/5. When that box was first designed a while back they did so using 12w6v2.

JPerkMr954

The amplifier that I was thinking about was the JL XD700/5 so I can run aftermarket components and coaxals and then the sub channel is 300 watts. So based on the understanding that was present in previous posts, instead of looking at the 10w3v3 or the 12w3v3, I should be looking at running the 10 OR 12 W6 instead? looking at the JL site the RMS amp power for the W6 is 200-600 watts. If the amp I am looking at is only 300 watts on the sub channel, am I then not underpowering the woofer, thus leaving "meat on the table" vs if I went W3 id be looking at nearly maxed out power to the sub?

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

A W3 will work fine in that box, they even offer that sub as a package deal with the enclosure. But if you decided to go w6, you should bump up to the HD900/5 or another 5 channel with a more powerful sub channel

JPerkMr954

I did see that they offer the w3 in that box as a package deal... and based on what I was seeing it seems to be a very good price when adding in the subwoofer.. I was just trying to make sure I understand exactly what was being told to be in the previous post about going with the W6 and needing less power. Im not sure if just 300 watts if going to get me enough of what I want, I always usually better to have too much than not enough..... but it might do more than I think it would. The other option would then be running 2 separate amps, because a 900/5 is going to put way too much power on the mids and highs, but would give me a better sub channel wattage.

I hate cars

The more power the better for both the subs and the front stage. I'm running 1,200w on the front stage and I'm getting ready to add more.

My midbass in the doors are rated at 180w continuous and I'm putting 300w each to them. You don't have to match the amp rating to the speaker's average rating. You can't hurt a speaker by under powering and since music is dynamic, you can usually run considerably more power than what they're rated at.

Every time I've increased power, my system has sounded better even without cranking it up. Music is dynamic. If it has the standard 10db dynamic range which most will have, sometimes even more, the most power I can put to my front stage without clipping the amp is less than 50 watts of average power. You want the power available for those musical peaks. The system comes alive with lots of power, the music sound more realistic and dynamic and I'm not talking about cranking the volume. Even at normal listening levels, more power will sound better.

I would always go with more power than you need. You can always back the gains down. It's better to have a powerful amp that's just cruising along with the gain down and very low distortion than a smaller amp that's being pushed to it's limit.

If you're limited on amplifier power, forget about the 10". It will literally require double the power for the same output as the 12". I would also go with the W3 if you're limited on power since it's more efficient than the W6. The 13W3 will be comparable to the 12W6 in output and it will get louder for a given power level for what it's worth.

The 900/5 is a great amp, I've owned two. The HD series is great in general. I've owned every one of them at one time or another. Right now I have a pair of 600/4 amps for the fronts and a pair of 750/1s on the subs. My subs are extremely efficient and they aren't likely to pull more than 100w each when cranked up. But with this much power the system is incredibly lively and effortless sounding.

I hate cars

300w on a 12W3 will be plenty. 300w on a 10W3 will be half as loud. While the W6 can get louder because it has a higher power handling and more excursion, on 300w, the W3 will get louder.

Keep in mind that a ported enclosure can sound just as good as sealed. Ported can give you a +6db boost in output. To get 6db with a sealed box you would have to add a second sub and double the power. The only downside to ported is the enclosure size is a bit larger but you literally get the same output as two sealed subs while using half the power.

Even though I don't like 10" subs, a 10W3 ported will walk all over a 12W3 sealed and it will sound great too.

If you go with the 900/5 amp which I think you should as a minimum, the 12W6 might be the better choice.

Sorry, I know I"m probably making the decision harder but I'm having to sneak these posts in at work so I haven't been able to go into detail.

jahkno_

Thats sick

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

(if you use all JL and want 5 ch)

12w6v2 or v3 use a HD900/5
12w3v3 use a XD700/5

And don't worry about overpowering you other speakers, just adjust your gains properly. Your speakers will thank you.

JPerkMr954

I like the price of the XD700 amp better than the HD900. Im trying to keep this project relatively low priced as a whole, while being able to get what I want. So I guess it seem that I should run the 12 inch w3 instead of the 10 inch. Thank you for the enclosure websites where I can find the type of enclosure I want. I hope I know what I need to know before I start purchasing.

westside_get_the_money

I found uncald4 on ebay while i was looking up enclosures for my car. I currently have 2 12" Rockford T1s with a Hifonics amp that takes up 90% of my trunk space. Its a great looking enclosure but i need my trunk space back.
Here's the link i found him at;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Subwoofer-Enclosure-2004-to-2008-compact-12-sealed-uncald4-/301048893310?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item4617e98f7e&vxp=mtr#ht_655wt_1124

I hate cars

Let us know how that sounds in a too small of an enclosure.

Why not just go IB if you want your trunk back. I have two 15s and over 90% of my trunk is usable. Your power requirements will be cut by half and it's most likely going to sound better than what you have now with the same subs.

On his site it even says the boxes go UP TO 1 cubic foot for the 12s. No 12" is going to sound good in 1 cube and it's going to require a lot more power in that tiny box than it would in the proper sized box. Put an 8" or a 10" in a 1 cube box and you might have something that sounds decent.

JPerkMr954

I want told about going with the IB also, but the IB seems to involve a great deal of construction to build, and then I lose my pass through. I dont really use it now, but I'll be losing it. that order build box just sems easier to drop in and go, which is what I want. I might look into the IB more though if the cost overall is less. Regardless though I dont want more than 1 subwoofer.

tomlinsonj

iTrader: (2)

I have the uncald4 sealed box and a 10w6 powered by a XD600/1. I'm pleased with the performance. But I've never sat in a car that has a high level system, so

I hate cars

You can go IB and mount a sub on one side and retain your pass through. It's much cheaper considering you're talking about $50 worth of materials to do it and you can run a cheaper sub and still sound good.

pohljm

pass thru is useless! It fits skis..........who uses those? my snowboards will not fit. If the rear seat folded down then it may be an issue, until then IB all the way. If you cannot fabricate a sufficient baffle then frankly I dont even want you on the road. Its super simple.

JPerkMr954

I dont build things.... I go to a professional and allow them to do what they specialize in... I'll look into the IB more and see.... Ive pretty much got everything else planned out, still unsure about the component coaxial pairing also...

I hate cars

The problem with IB and "professionals" is they believe the myths such as IB does not get as loud as sealed. As long as you don't listen to them and allow them to talk you out of it, I think you will be very happy with it. Even a shop owner I've bought stuff from since the '90s told me not to go IB. Once I did it I had to give him a demo for him to believe what it was capable of and he was very impressed.

Don't do coaxials. Besides usually using a cheaper crossover, you don't want two sets of tweeters and the tweeters on the dash help bring stage height up. Just buy a nice component set for the front. You can amp the stock rear speakers if you want rear fill. Tweeters are usually not recommended for rear fill and I would never do rear fill unless I had lots of processing unless you're doing it just for the rear passengers.

JPerkMr954

I was just looking to replace the rears since im going to toss components in the front... I mean, the cost to buy another set of speakers for the rear is gonna be 100-200 bucks... might as well.. even if I do that a few weeks later.. ya know... I just dont know what to use in the rears. Im still considering JL audio all around.. or Image dynamics... Reading up on em still. Im strange like that so whatever brand i use in the front id like in the rear also...

CBP08TL

iTrader: (2)

IMO the rears help balance out the sound. I tried lowering the rear and it just sounds unbalanced, sorta like a clogged ear. Maybe it's my settings and the way I have them dialed in. Despite what I read, rears are a must for me.

Why not run the rear of the stock amp and use the money for a better amp and sub.
This past weekend I added rainbow components, focal amp and sub. It's my first car stereo and it sounds awesome! Kept the rear as fill.

I hate cars

Once you have the ability to tune and you have an actual sound stage you will never want rear fill again. With sound coming from everywhere, rear fill might be wanted.

JPerkMr954

Better such as?

CBP08TL

iTrader: (2)

I must hear a complete setup. I would imagine it would get up there in $$.
more powerful component, amp, sub. "better" was probably a poor choice of word on my part - i just meant spend the extra money elsewhere. Maybe even on sound deadening if you haven't planned for it.

I hate cars

You don't need a lot of money to create a sound stage. Ok speakers and a processor with a lot of tuning put into it. It basically recreates the environment the recording took place in. All sound comes from above the dash near the windshield and you can hear where each instrument is placed, you can hear where the singer is and if he's walking across the stage you can pinpoint where he's at. If it's a piano only, you can hear where each note is coming from, as the hands move across the keys.

All it requires is a processor with tuning knowledge and a basic tweeter and mid up front.

As for "better", you'll get a lot of opinions. I don't believe in using ultra high end amps because I don't believe there's a difference in a decent $600 amp and a $5,000 amp. Running more power has always made my system sound better. I will always run as much power as I can afford no matter what the name on the amp is. The system sound much cleaner and more realistic with lots of power on the fronts.

I compared my $2,000 McIntosh amp with my $600 JL HD amp and a $100 Interfire amp, all pushing about the same amount of power. It was a real surprise when I couldn't hear the difference in any of them. I chose the JL HD amps for my sound quality build because they're efficient, small, have a low almost non existant noise floor, and they had the features I needed. I sold the McIntosh because there was no point in running it. It was huge and consumed a lot of power and while it was a very good looking amp I like to hide my system and the HDs allowed me to mount 2 of the 3 under the seats.

My recommendation to most people is to get a decent but not necessarily "high end" amp and run all the power you can afford if sound quality is the goal. I think running lots of power is the biggest bang for the buck.

With speakers I believe you get what you pay for. Speakers introduce the most distortion into the system and they can change the way it sounds. I paid quite a lot for the Dyn Esotar speakers but I believe they're worth every penny. I get critisized on other boards for spending "too much" on speakers by one crowd and "not enough" by a different crowd on amps.

JPerkMr954

That was a great posting. I think JL is where im going with for my amp choice. Im still unsure about Image Dynamics or if I want to go with a full JL setup. Im just one who prefers to have consistency so I wouldnt want to mix brands for speakers if I can avoid it. Ive heard tons of great things about the id's as far as components but when looking to replace my rear speakers, Ive not hear any input or information.