Greengecko

Hey guys,
Has anyone connected the pre-amp leads into the stock amp directly to an aftermarket amp? Would that be compatible? I'm getting rid of a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 that I just couldn't get to produce bass right, so I'm going with simple LOCs on the speaker-level (post-amp) wires right now. I'd like to even bypass those, if possible, and just go straight from the pre-amp signal into the new amps.

robbie82

Um I dont understand all that but I wanna go to a car shop and do the same thing, change the main 4 speakers and change to a better amp, can this be done? I wanna keep the same radio though, if anyone has done this please post.

PowerCommander

Greengecko,
Just cut the connector coming from the head unit to the stock amp and put a 6 channel line driver such as the AudioControl matrix then to your aftermarket amps and to the speakers. There are quite a few turorials if you do a search. Deathto Toaster I believe has the same install you are wanting to do. You can find that thread at "3G TL Audio & Electronics FAQ" .

robbie82,
Yes it can be done. There are various different post on this subject if you just do a search. Some have even posted on how to remove panels and rear deck lid to access to your stock wiring and speakers.

Kirk3272

iTrader: (1)

The AudioControl digital series inputs will handle the ouput of the stock amp. Just splice RCA male ends directly onto the output wires of the stock amp and plug it up.

K

iodprod

iTrader: (1)

using the stock PREAMP wires wont work they're too low for most amps
i tried with mine didnt work at all
the best way to do it is to keep the stock amp wired in normally and take the stock sub wires AT THE SUB and run them to a high-low converter
i personally got the stinger SLOC converter
once the converter is hooked up run RCA wires to the amp

this is the way i ran it and it sounds amazing
bass is full volume and no distortion whatsoever

King of Pain

100% agree. Keep the stock amp and use LOCs

Greengecko

Cool, thanks for the response, guys. What my installer finally did was just remove the 3Sixty, used PAC LOCs instead. Then from there he took the pre-outs from the 4-way amp and connected those to the sub amp, and the sub sounds totally clean that way. I lost sub control from the head unit but he installed a separate sub volume control knob.

I was considering using an AudioControl Matrix like DeathtoToasters did in his amazing setup, but I'm pretty satisfied now with the sound quality as it is. I don't think there would be an improvement after making that change that would be noticeable enough to be worth all the extra trouble.

I'm still mystified as to why you guys seem to have no problem with the quality of the sub sound when feeding directly from the subwoofer stock amp output, but I may just have to live with the way mine's working out. I'm pretty satisfied with the way it sounds now. I'll post some pics of my final install in another thread later -- I have everything on a board upside down under the rear deck. It would be a great showpiece if you could take a look at it head-on, but it sure saves space this way (practicality wins out over looks this time!).

robbie82

I wish I understood all this =(

VtecMW

I have the exact same LOC setup as King of Pain.

Knertified

Can someone explain to me why LOC's are better than the 3 sixty? The 3sixty is adjustable and removes the factory head unit EQ. You should be able to adjust the EQ and add more bass if wanted while keeping the rest of the factory curve flat.

EDIT: are you just running a amp+sub and not upgrading the amp/speakers? I could see using the LOC's just for a sub.

Greengecko

Well, the LOCs are just a much more economical way of getting good sound. They perform the same function in terms of taking a speaker-level signal and turning into a pre-out signal for the RCA inputs on your amps.

I must admit, I was pretty impressed at how good the sound was with just the LOCs. If I had known that it sounded that good I might not have bought the 3Sixty.2 at $500 and saved a load of cash. But I've figured out the bass problems I was having with the sub, so I put it back in and it's working great now. It is nice to have more expert control of the sound.

It turns out the polarity on the sub at the stock amp output is reversed on the diagram I got from Crutchfield, and my installer told me they often have the same problem on Hondas, so I'm wondering if the original database that this info comes from has it backwards. (i.e., the list the Yellow/Black as positive and Light-Green/Red as negative, and the bass was awful that way -- I reversed it and bingo: slammin' bass!).

Knertified, to answer your question, I've upgraded everything, so I have two amps, replaced all the speakers and added a sub in a sealed enclosure. You can read about my setup if you look at my profile. I also removed the stock sub because the pressure from the new one would just keep pushing it all the time, and I wanted a good passageway for some of the bass to come into the cabin from the trunk.

Knertified

Thanks for your response. I was getting a little scared that there was something wrong with the 3sixty i also just dumped a bunch of money into I haven't done the install yet but plan on doing it soon. How did the A/D/S components fit into the doors? I have some focal utopias that I think will give me fitment issues. I may have to cut metal like in my last car

Greengecko

Yeah, the installers I used had to cut the metal. Some things you just can't get around. I have A/D/S/ 6.5" speakers in the door that have big magnets and the hole just had to be enlarged. I actually went in there after them and used a rotary tool (like Dremel) and cut it smooth and primed the exposed metal to prevent rust. Unfortunately, even the "pros" just can't do some things as well as if you do it yourself!

gtoddh

Did you ever post pics in another thread? I'd like to see how your amps are installed.

Knertified

That really sucks. You cant really trust anyone now. I have seen professional installers throw in speakers without even screwing them in. Its amazing...

supadupahyphy

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna do the exact setup as King and Vtec this sat. From what I have heard this is the best setup for a simple clean install without panel pulling. Whatever that means.

I will post the install sunday and give impressions of the sound quality.

robbie82

Sunday has come and gone! Update!?

supadupahyphy

iTrader: (1)

I posted on the 21st which was Monday I have got all my equipment and will start getting down Sunday the 27th

As soon im done with the install and sound tweaks. I will give you my impression of the sound quality then

dcrandon

Can't give you a specific answer, but I'm curious as well.

I'm going to upgrade, people have told me that the stock HU doesn't produce a high enough level output to drive aftermarket amps without a lot of noise and hiss.

But I definately don't want to have the stock amp in the signal path because I've heard it's specs are terrible for distortion. I also don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks for a "level booster" of any kind between the head unit and aftermarket amps either.

I'll try to set up a poll about this to see who has hooked up aftermarket amps driven from the HU without any other signal processors in the signal path.

David

supadupahyphy

iTrader: (1)

Ok peoples, I finished my install and this is my

Go drop a 10 spot and hook up a Stinger LOC. The bass is clean and deep and sometimes overpowering. The stock speakers feel drowned out at time and you may consider upgrading the stock speakers( I plan to upgrade the stock speakers).

You don't need the 361 sub control. If you wire the LOC through the stock sub, the head unit sub control will also control your woofers.

There is a tiny bit of motor noise through the woofer but its only noticable when the vehicle is first started. For the price and the sound im getting through those woofers, I can't complain.

Joey tl

Has anyone tried the audiocontrol epicenter plus?