Budget amp to power ID CTX/Sub?
#1
Budget amp to power ID CTX/Sub?
Guys-I just ordered the ID CTX speakers and found an old sub/box, the sub is an old Pioneer Premier sub. My question is how can I tell for sure if it is 2ohm or 4ohm or not sure if this matters if I am bridging the 4-channel amp? The CTX are 4ohm so I should look for something that is 4ohm x 2, correct?
Also, looking for an amp under $200 to power the front ID CTXs and the sub, which is like 250w rms. Do you recommend Boss or MB Quart as these are the budget amps I have found online. Thanks again for the recommendations and suggestions!
Here's a link for both the CTX & the amps I think should power them:
ID CTX: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html
Boss Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...oss-CX650.html
MB Quart Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-FX4.100.html OR http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-ONX4.125.html
Also, looking for an amp under $200 to power the front ID CTXs and the sub, which is like 250w rms. Do you recommend Boss or MB Quart as these are the budget amps I have found online. Thanks again for the recommendations and suggestions!
Here's a link for both the CTX & the amps I think should power them:
ID CTX: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html
Boss Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...oss-CX650.html
MB Quart Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-FX4.100.html OR http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-ONX4.125.html
#3
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Take out the sub and look at the back. Should have a model # and that can help us to figure out what you need.
Also, I'd steer clear of Boss. Not too good. Also, the MB Quart amps seem to be very nice. I've got a Q4.150 sitting here about to be installed and it's a nice looking amp. Well built and heavy. I suggest going for the Q4.150 if anything as it's better than what you have listed. Damn good price too for a budget setup.
Also, I'd steer clear of Boss. Not too good. Also, the MB Quart amps seem to be very nice. I've got a Q4.150 sitting here about to be installed and it's a nice looking amp. Well built and heavy. I suggest going for the Q4.150 if anything as it's better than what you have listed. Damn good price too for a budget setup.
#4
Wallet raped by my
Steer far away from any Boss products. They are a ILS (if lightning struck) company. All of there power ratings are inflated and they aren't even a CEA compliant company. The MB Quart amp would be leaps and bounds better then that Boss amp. MB Quart is a CEA compliant company btw.
#5
Thanks on the MB Quart. I think the Q4.100 would be the best option.
Take out the sub and look at the back. Should have a model # and that can help us to figure out what you need.
Also, I'd steer clear of Boss. Not too good. Also, the MB Quart amps seem to be very nice. I've got a Q4.150 sitting here about to be installed and it's a nice looking amp. Well built and heavy. I suggest going for the Q4.150 if anything as it's better than what you have listed. Damn good price too for a budget setup.
Also, I'd steer clear of Boss. Not too good. Also, the MB Quart amps seem to be very nice. I've got a Q4.150 sitting here about to be installed and it's a nice looking amp. Well built and heavy. I suggest going for the Q4.150 if anything as it's better than what you have listed. Damn good price too for a budget setup.
Is 100watts enough to power the CTX ID as that is the what the rms is for them?
Steer far away from any Boss products. They are a ILS (if lightning struck) company. All of there power ratings are inflated and they aren't even a CEA compliant company. The MB Quart amp would be leaps and bounds better then that Boss amp. MB Quart is a CEA compliant company btw.
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#9
I think the MB Quart Q4. 150 should be more then enough for this setup.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...RO/TS-W1041DVC
* 10" Premier VCCS PRO Component Subwoofer
* Nickel Coated Foamed IMPP (Injection Molded Polypropylene) Rigilite™ Composite Cone Woofer
* Aluminum Insert for Increased Cone Rigidity
* Dual-Layer Urethane Surround
* Direct Bobbin Mounted VCCS (Voice Coil Cooling System)
* Conex Damper with Damper Ring
* Lead Wires Integrated into Damper for High Reliability and Improved Power Transfer
* Projected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
* High-Energy Ferrite Magnet with Bumped Back Plate
* Low-Q Design for use in Small Sealed Box (0.6 cubic foot recommended)
* Dual Voice Coil (2x4W ) Design for Increased System Flexibility
* 800 Watts Max Music Power
* 400 Watts Nominal Power Handling
* Frequency Response: 18-2,500Hz
* Sensitivity (Efficiency): 86dB (1W/1m)
* 2Ohm or 8Ohm Rated
Last edited by vp55; 08-15-2011 at 09:27 PM.
#14
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
A 2ohm DVC (dual voice coil) sub will either give you 1ohm at the amp in parallel or 4ohms in series.
Check this out for help:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...1&I=22#results
Check this out for help:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...1&I=22#results
#15
06 WDP/Ebony MT NAV ASPEC
A 2ohm DVC (dual voice coil) sub will either give you 1ohm at the amp in parallel or 4ohms in series.
Check this out for help:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...1&I=22#results
Check this out for help:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...1&I=22#results
#17
Thanks, guys. So, it's probably best to get a new sub that is 4ohms because it sounds like I will lose power at 8ohms and the other ways to bridge it aren't recommended.
Guys, if I screw the sub and just decide on speakers for low end which ones should I get. I am thinking of just doing speakers instead of the sub now and use a 4 channel amp.
Guys, if I screw the sub and just decide on speakers for low end which ones should I get. I am thinking of just doing speakers instead of the sub now and use a 4 channel amp.
#19
Wallet raped by my
You could get away with using the SSA sub. It's only .10 cubic inch smaller then specified which isn't gonna make a huge difference. If your really worried about it just put some poly fill in the box to trick the woofer into thinking the box is just a bit larger then it really is. Only thing that would really matter is if the box doesn't have enough depth to mount the woofer in w/o it hitting the back.
#21
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Thanks, guys. So, it's probably best to get a new sub that is 4ohms because it sounds like I will lose power at 8ohms and the other ways to bridge it aren't recommended.
Guys, if I screw the sub and just decide on speakers for low end which ones should I get. I am thinking of just doing speakers instead of the sub now and use a 4 channel amp.
Guys, if I screw the sub and just decide on speakers for low end which ones should I get. I am thinking of just doing speakers instead of the sub now and use a 4 channel amp.
Guys-what's a good sub for a .65 sealed box. Looking to spend no more then $150 on the sub. Looking for non-mainstream subs. The SSA is recommended at .75 sealed so I don't think my box would be good for it.[/quote]
See below
You could get away with using the SSA sub. It's only .10 cubic inch smaller then specified which isn't gonna make a huge difference. If your really worried about it just put some poly fill in the box to trick the woofer into thinking the box is just a bit larger then it really is. Only thing that would really matter is if the box doesn't have enough depth to mount the woofer in w/o it hitting the back.
#22
I'll check my sub tonight sorry for the suspense lol.
I really wanted a light weight setup but found my old sub and box just sitting there so might as well put it to use... I hope it still works since I originally got it almost 7 years ago.
Anyways, thanks u all have been more then helpful.
I really wanted a light weight setup but found my old sub and box just sitting there so might as well put it to use... I hope it still works since I originally got it almost 7 years ago.
Anyways, thanks u all have been more then helpful.
#23
Team Owner
Why would you limit yourself to non mainstream subs? Some of the best subs out there are mainstream.
#24
06 WDP/Ebony MT NAV ASPEC
From that line i think it is dual 4 ohm only and configurable as 2ohm or 8ohm. But you are right, should only take a second to physically check.
#26
Guys, sorry for the wait but looks like 4ohm DVC version. Do you think I need to add more of the white filling into the box and anything else to really seal the box as it is about 7 years old.
For the tweeters on the CTX, will it replace the OEM tweeters or do they need to be mounted somewhere else as I really want an OEM look and want them flush.
Thanks again everyone you guys were very helpful.
For the tweeters on the CTX, will it replace the OEM tweeters or do they need to be mounted somewhere else as I really want an OEM look and want them flush.
Thanks again everyone you guys were very helpful.
#27
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Tweeters can fit in the stock hole no problem. You might have to find a way to fab them up to fit properly but they aren't larger than the stock grille. Most seems to cut off the factory tweeter and adhere the new tweeter to the stock grille. That way the grill goes back on looking like factory but the new tweeter is under the grille
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vp55 (08-22-2011)
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Three Wheelin'
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