Guys-I just ordered the ID CTX speakers and found an old sub/box, the sub is an old Pioneer Premier sub. My question is how can I tell for sure if it is 2ohm or 4ohm or not sure if this matters if I am bridging the 4-channel amp? The CTX are 4ohm so I should look for something that is 4ohm x 2, correct?

Also, looking for an amp under $200 to power the front ID CTXs and the sub, which is like 250w rms. Do you recommend Boss or MB Quart as these are the budget amps I have found online. Thanks again for the recommendations and suggestions!

Here's a link for both the CTX & the amps I think should power them:

ID CTX: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html

Boss Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...oss-CX650.html

MB Quart Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-FX4.100.html OR http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-ONX4.125.html

 

I have a mb quart Q amp and am pretty happy with it. Don't know about Boss.

Are you running the old pioneer sub with the new one?

 

Take out the sub and look at the back. Should have a model # and that can help us to figure out what you need.

Also, I'd steer clear of Boss. Not too good. Also, the MB Quart amps seem to be very nice. I've got a Q4.150 sitting here about to be installed and it's a nice looking amp. Well built and heavy. I suggest going for the Q4.150 if anything as it's better than what you have listed. Damn good price too for a budget setup.

 

Steer far away from any Boss products. They are a ILS (if lightning struck) company. All of there power ratings are inflated and they aren't even a CEA compliant company. The MB Quart amp would be leaps and bounds better then that Boss amp. MB Quart is a CEA compliant company btw.

 

Not sure what you mean, but if I am only running one single 10" sub, which is the old Pioneer Premier.

Thanks on the MB Quart. I think the Q4.100 would be the best option.

Thanks, but I think the Q4.150 might be a little to much power for my setup, but if there isn't a big difference in price might check that out.

Is 100watts enough to power the CTX ID as that is the what the rms is for them?

Thanks, looks like MB Quart is the one to go with.

 

here's another good one
http://www.crescendoaudio.com/produc...roductid=17516

 

^Thanks eggy, is this a reliable amp?

 

1. You can never have enough power
2. Passive X-overs eat power so you'll want more than recommended
3. You can never have enough power

150 to components isn't too much (4ohms). We still need to know the sub and specs

 

I was able to find the sub on Pioneers website. The specs are below.

I think the MB Quart Q4. 150 should be more then enough for this setup.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...RO/TS-W1041DVC

* 10" Premier VCCS PRO Component Subwoofer
* Nickel Coated Foamed IMPP (Injection Molded Polypropylene) Rigilite™ Composite Cone Woofer
* Aluminum Insert for Increased Cone Rigidity
* Dual-Layer Urethane Surround
* Direct Bobbin Mounted VCCS (Voice Coil Cooling System)
* Conex Damper with Damper Ring
* Lead Wires Integrated into Damper for High Reliability and Improved Power Transfer
* Projected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
* High-Energy Ferrite Magnet with Bumped Back Plate
* Low-Q Design for use in Small Sealed Box (0.6 cubic foot recommended)
* Dual Voice Coil (2x4W ) Design for Increased System Flexibility
* 800 Watts Max Music Power
* 400 Watts Nominal Power Handling
* Frequency Response: 18-2,500Hz
* Sensitivity (Efficiency): 86dB (1W/1m)
* 2Ohm or 8Ohm Rated

 

Mb will work if your sub is the DVC 2ohm version

 

Yes, it is the 2ohm DVC version. So, how much power will the MB Q4. 150 provide if it’s bridged since it is rated as 4ohm?

 

450 to sub (bridged) and 150x2 or components

 

Thanks, but the 450 is rated @ 4ohms and the sub is 2ohms? Is this because it’s a 2ohm sub with DVC that it will get the full 440 watts from the amp?

 

A 2ohm DVC (dual voice coil) sub will either give you 1ohm at the amp in parallel or 4ohms in series.

Check this out for help:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...1&I=22#results

 

I think his sub is D4, so can be configured as 2 ohm or 8 ohm. The amp is only 4 ohm stable bridged so it would need to be hooked up at 8 ohms most likely, or run each channel to each coil but i don't think that is recommended.

 

Wire it to 8 ohms

you'll only lose 3db in output.

 

Thanks, guys. So, it's probably best to get a new sub that is 4ohms because it sounds like I will lose power at 8ohms and the other ways to bridge it aren't recommended.

Guys, if I screw the sub and just decide on speakers for low end which ones should I get. I am thinking of just doing speakers instead of the sub now and use a 4 channel amp.

 

Guys-what's a good sub for a .65 sealed box. Looking to spend no more then $150 on the sub. Looking for non-mainstream subs. The SSA is recommended at .75 sealed so I don't think my box would be good for it.

 

You could get away with using the SSA sub. It's only .10 cubic inch smaller then specified which isn't gonna make a huge difference. If your really worried about it just put some poly fill in the box to trick the woofer into thinking the box is just a bit larger then it really is. Only thing that would really matter is if the box doesn't have enough depth to mount the woofer in w/o it hitting the back.

 

Are we talking about the dcon? Those perform much better ported.

 

It looks like they offer DVC 2 or DV 8. You for sure it's 8? It'll work if it's the 2ohm version. OP needs to just check for us. It'll take 2 seconds



Guys-what's a good sub for a .65 sealed box. Looking to spend no more then $150 on the sub. Looking for non-mainstream subs. The SSA is recommended at .75 sealed so I don't think my box would be good for it.[/quote]

See below

^ This. If the box is slightly smaller or larger it's not a huge deal. Like Gryphen said, you can just add polyfill to the box to make it act slightly larger. Anyways, look on Craigslist to see if there are any good subs out there. You'd be surprised at what people will put up for next to nothing. There were 2 MINT JBL MKII's 10's here locally for $150 for the pair. There's an IDQ 12v3 on DIYMA for $190 shipped right now. There's 2 (he might let one go though..) w6's for $200/each (might be able to pick one up cheaper though). You could also PM "I hate cars" and see if he'll sell you his w6.

 

I'll check my sub tonight sorry for the suspense lol.

I really wanted a light weight setup but found my old sub and box just sitting there so might as well put it to use... I hope it still works since I originally got it almost 7 years ago.

Anyways, thanks u all have been more then helpful.

 

Why would you limit yourself to non mainstream subs? Some of the best subs out there are mainstream.

 

* Dual Voice Coil (2x4W ) Design for Increased System Flexibility

From that line i think it is dual 4 ohm only and configurable as 2ohm or 8ohm. But you are right, should only take a second to physically check.

 

AHH! I see what you're saying. Yeah, you might be right on this one

 

Guys, sorry for the wait but looks like 4ohm DVC version. Do you think I need to add more of the white filling into the box and anything else to really seal the box as it is about 7 years old.


For the tweeters on the CTX, will it replace the OEM tweeters or do they need to be mounted somewhere else as I really want an OEM look and want them flush.

Thanks again everyone you guys were very helpful.

 

Tweeters can fit in the stock hole no problem. You might have to find a way to fab them up to fit properly but they aren't larger than the stock grille. Most seems to cut off the factory tweeter and adhere the new tweeter to the stock grille. That way the grill goes back on looking like factory but the new tweeter is under the grille

 

Ok, last question sorry, so this sub said it is 2ohm or 8ohm rated but the sub itself says it is 4ohm, so would an amp that's bridged at 4ohms work with this sub? Will the MB Q4 150 work as it is rated at 440 x 2 chan bridged @ 4ohms?

 

It's a dual 4 ohm.

Your wiring options are 2 ohm or 8 ohm.

Wire it to 8 ohms.

 

How much power would I get if I wire at 8ohm? If it's only going to push 100-150 rms I might as well just get another sub.

 

Well if its 450 @ 4 ohms, its 225ish @ 8ohm, or 900 @ 2ohm. Its not quite linear usually, but close.