Keep pulling fuses one by one. You will find something

 

what year?

 

 

 

Same troubleshooting. Find which fuses it's on, then post here. Somebody with the service manual can post the circuit for fuses and then you can troubleshoot from there. I'd do it but I'm not at home and can't look in the SM.

 

check this thread, Post #9: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-relay-966213/

He found out his Homelink was part of the battery drain. Not just the HFL. Worth at least investigating.

 

 

 

 

 

did you ever fix this?
I wouldnt doubt it if it was not the HFL causing the drain.

 

I didn't fix it. I pulled the fuse NO. 15 under the hood and I have been driving the car for a year. I do not have battery drain but I also do not have a radio, a/c etc. because no fuse 15.

 

I would put 15 back in, and find out which kick panel fuse is the problem.

underhood fuse 15 supports , kickpanel fuses 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 (accessory socket).

notice the tiny MICU is in there on fuse 8. I dont trust that micu. But I am not saying that is your problem..

 

thanks my friend but I have already done it, fuses 6 and 7 drain 0.420 amp. gauge control unit 0.200 amp drain. 0.50 amp door master switch. I replied and checked everything. HFL disconnected. new AC Relay. I still have a drain battery. Disconnected the gauge control unit and the drain dropped to 0.200 amp. But still 0.200 amp :[ I gave up.

 

well, if you cannot find it, or fix it, then you could still leave everything connected so you can have A/C, but instead install a Kill switch on the battery.. That way it wont kill the battery.
Or another option, install a manual switch and a inline 15 amp fuse in fuse position 15. The switch can be mounted on your dashboard by the ABS traction.. so just flip it off when you leave the car.
but make sure the inline switch and cables are rated for slightly over 15 amps for safety.. like 20 amps.

 

thanks, I will think about this solution. I will order a new gauge control unit next week. I like this car but he’s drives me crazy.

 

Ya I know. drives me crazy too. but it keeps running. yuk!

So another option for a switch, would be to leave #15 installed but just switch fuse 6 and 7. You could install a Single pull, double throw switch. I think that will switch 2 "independent" circuits with 1 pull. hence SPDT. but you will still need double wires.. but only to support 7.5 amps Each.

 

You could also use a relay instead of a mechanical switch to close the circuit automatically when the car turned on.

 

Those gauges look so different nude.

 

Following this thread. Same thing. HFL module removed, it's something else...

 

probably the B-Can or the MICU.

 

Where to find the Multi Integrated Control Unit, and how to fix?

 

I think the micu is basically the inside fuse box .. I dont have access to my helm book... but i bet someone has already posted some stuff about it on azine

 

Had the A/C relay inside the fuse box replaced, seem to be draining I was told by the mechanic. Hope this stops the drain, find out in the morning!

 

delete

 

Did you ever figure this out?

 

I am also having this issue , I remove the factory amp and that didn't seem do it , but if I remove the number 5 radio fuse I don't have the battery drain .. seems to be the radio ?

 

Under-dash #5 fuse goes to radio and amp, and if you are talking about 07 Type S then it should also have active noise cancellation module running of that fuse.

That module should be under the center speaker and should be easier to disconnect than radio. I would try that before doing anything else if amp is not the culprit.

 

Yes the 07 TL-S, I will try to see how that is removed. Thanks

 

WTF mine just started this drain again last week. HFL disconnected a couple years ago and no issues until now. Brand new battery dead over night and a 1.5amp charger won't keep up with the draw. Subscribed and will start to troubleshoot!

 

That is a lot of draw, should be easy to find. First check AC clutch relay.

 

Thanks Peter6,
At first check there was about a 4amp draw and I could hear a click every time I would connect the negative batt cable to the post and/or amp/voltmeter in the circuit. I could not locate the source?
I've now narrowed it down to the AC fuse 15 because if I pull it the amp-draw drops to milli-amps and pretty much goes away. When I put the fuse back in the draw hovers around 2.2amps and stays there even when I pull the relay. I've tried swapping relays with the others in the panel and no change. Not sure how else to test? The clicking has gone away and the AC works fine, blows cold air, and can hear it kick on and off when pushing the AC button on the dash. So I think the relay is working just fine.

 

You mean under-hood fuse #15 (40A)? What car do you have?

 

2007 Acura TL-S. Yes under hood 15 - 40amp. The draw drops immediately when I remove this fuse.
I did go back and individually check under dash 5-9 as I read this 40amp fuse controls those various sockets. I did see a drop in amp draw when I removed them individually 1 at a time but not enough to indicate the cause.
I also pulled the plug from the Homelink just to confirm and that didn't do anything.. Have had my HFL disconnected for 2-3 years due to the first parasite encounter and that resolved the issue until this phantom experience.

 

Like you wrote, there are a lot of smaller circuits running of that fuse. Remember to somehow disable the door switch (best is to remove the 10mm M6 bolt that holds it) and then let car sit for some time (~10 mins) so everything that should will go to sleep.

Then start pulling fuses or best measure voltage drop across them to not disturb the system.

Under-hood fuse #7 also gets power from under hood #15.

 

I'm just going to put this out there, I have a 08 TL Base and had a 1 amp draw on the battery a couple of month ago. Using this excellent forum I did the trouble shooting recommend by pulling the fuses and figured out that the fuse that had the front passenger window and a couple of other things on it (I'm sorry I don't remember which fuse) stopped the drain, and like everyone else was thinking ok now what.

Well in my case at that time my passenger window was not working, so I figured what the hell it's on the circuit and I have to fix it anyway I went ahead and ordered a new actuator and motor. And that worked, once I replaced the parts the window was working again and my 1 amp draw was gone. My point is if you already have a problem that is on the fuse circuit that you've isolated that you have ignored previous, you might want to circle back to that.

 

Thanks again Peter6! I replaced the clutch relay and so far so good. I initially thought it was something else as I swapped it out with other relays and was still finding amp draw. I think it was my Nav radio resetting every time I connected power and didn't realize that until later. The issue went away for a day or 2 but then returned so I think just handling the relay caused it to work intermittently but then drain would return so I just put a new one in and Bingo. It's been over a week and it sat in garage from Friday till Monday.

 

Hi all. I have a 2008 TL Tech. 200k miles. Everything on the car works besides HFL. I long ago disconnected the HFL due to parasitic draw. But now I have around .60 draw (using my multimeter set to 10amps) from the battery. When I take out the 15 fuse underhood, it goes away. Inside the car, if I remove 6 and 7, it goes away. So now, my question is what do I do? I was looking at the schematics above, and it appears there are a lot of components running on those fuses. Is it a matter of tearing the car apart and disconnecting each component while monitoring the amp draw on the battery to find the cause? I'm not tech savvy nor am I mechanically inclined, I just like to keep my things in good order. Any help is wildly appreciated.

 

So are you saying you had a draw from the underhood #15 fuse, but ended up replacing the underhood #12 (MG clutch) fuse instead OR you replaced the compressor clutch relay and it fixed your issues with #15 fuse?