hi im looking to upgrade the audio system...need some help selecting speakers amp, maybe a sound processor...etc. my budget is around $1000. i me and my buddy would be doing the installation. Any help would really appreciated
Thanks!

 

what are u trying to achieve

SPL or SQL?

are you going to be building your own box??

What music do you listen to? IE: Rap, Hip hop, country, rock

 

i listen to pretty much everything not looking for crazy spl. a 10inch subwoofer would do it for me...for a box ill prob. just buy one...but i wanna have a good budget friendly components in the front..im willing to leave the rear stock as i hear they are pretty decent when you put a amp. thanks again

 

Can you do the install yourself? It can save a lot of your budget for parts.

 

Yeah he said him and his buddy are doing the install




For $1,000 budget you have plenty of options as far as components, subs, amps. You WILL need sound deadener (and sealing,etc if you want that too) so set aside roughly $150-200 for that. Install is the #1 most important thing. You've given us your budget,etc..but can you tell us what speakers you've listened to and if you liked them, disliked them, what you didn't or did like about them, etc. It will help as there are just too many choices to just throw out there

 

My bad.

I would spend about:
$300 on components.
$250-300 in a powerful 4 channel amp
$200 on a sub.
$50 on a box.
<$50 on deadener
$75 for line driver
<$50 amp kit
Rest for wire and stuff

There are thousands of ways to do this and end up with a good system. If you need to do this in phases, start up front and work your way back.

Example,

• Components: Focal Polyglass $300, Hertz ESK $240, Image Dynamics CXS $309, Morel Tempo $269-330, etc. Lots here that are good.
• Amps: Fosgate T600.4: 100W at 4 ohms (150W at 2 ohms) for comps, 600ishW at 2 ohms for a sub (and probably underrated by 20% all the way around) - $319 shipped
• Sub: Sundown SA 12 - 195 shipped
• Box: no idea - make your own for $50 or so
• Deadener: 8 square feet to do your door panels - I would not do the trunk on this budget.
• Signal Converter: Fosgate BLD2 $75
• 4 Gauge amp kit: $50
• Wire: 100 feet 16ga speaker wire $20-30

This is around $1000, or so. Look used to make it even cheaper.

The best way to save money in a setup like this is to find a powerful 4 channel that can drive a sub with the rear channels. This is hard unless the amp is 1 ohm stable in stereo mode so that it can be 2 ohm stable when bridged. Few "budget" amps can do this and last for a long time.

 

It might be easier to find a 4 ohm sub. Then the bridged channels just need to be 4 ohm stable.

 

What are you going to do with a 250-300 watt 4 ohm bridged output? A 2 ohm output at about 500-600 watts could/would drive a better sub that would likely never need/want upgrading.

Some low wattage options, like carIB, are probably are out of reach on this budget.

 

*cough*
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...Subwoofer.html

Fs 33.5hz
Re 7.8
Qms 4.88
Qes .49
Qts .44
Mms 144g
Xmax 16mm
Vas 142.2
Sd 810 cm^2
BL 22.1
SPL 92.2 1W/1m
Wattage: 300wRMS
Displacement: 0.17ft^3

 

As someone who just tackled this project, OP, pay close attention to your signal source. You have 3 options basically: a) DSP, which might be tough on your budget b) using LOCs on speaker-level inputs and c) Line Driver(s) for the pre-factory amp channel signals such as RF BLD or AudioControl product. A 4th option is you can get an amp that will accept the balanced signal but there are only a few out there. Everyone is giving you good advice here but you'll need to decide on one of these 3 probably to factor into your budget.

I can attest to the fact that the DCON is a great buy for the money. After the above is decided on, any decent 4-channel amp, front comps and a basic 10 or 12 sub will get you where you need to be for your budget. Pick an amp that has some basic cross-over capabilities and you can tune more to your liking. The factory center and rear speakers provide pretty good 'fill' for your new aftermarket choices.

Don't be intimidated by the factory amp wiring. The passenger kick panel comes off pretty easily and the existing factory mid/tweet speaker wiring can be reused so you can tap the wires you need to while using the factory HU. If you decide on LOCs, these can be tucked under the factory amp in the kick panel and keep your wiring simple.

 

Are you sure the Audiocontrol units accept balanced signals?? I was under the impression that they didn't. I'm looking at the RF-BLD now but if the audiocontrol does...then I'll pick it up.

What about an MB Quart Q4.150 for the OP? 440 @ 4ohms for sub and 150 @ 4ohms for components. Mine is just sitting here on the kitchen table...it's definitely a sexy looking amp