Speaking of low priced speakers, anyone have opinion/experience on those top rated $40 component sets on sonic electronix? Any better than stock?

in my area there arent many brands to choose from and im not exactly sure how much i need to spend.

 

This is def where a port helps.

 

That box is exactly the size they specify.

 

^^^They usually specify a smaller box than the sub really needs so they can tout a higher power handling ability. Download WinISD and enter the T/S parameters for your sub and find out the real box size it should be in.

 

i did that for my sub and it told me a tiny 11L box. Its in 54L sealed now and sounds very good.

 

You've gotta have something wrong. 11L is .3cuft. That's crazy small.

Smaller box = high power handling, lower efficiency, less returns back to the manufactor due to other things, etc.

 

pdfcast.org/images/s/282/hx-250-d.jpg

 

 

lulz @ 96db efficiency

YEAH OKAY.

 

Yeah i cant really tell if it is or not.

 

I'll tell you right now it's not lol

 

ok. what is it then ? the guy said he originally paid three grand for four of them a bunch of years ago. akes sense if he bought them in canada. think they retailed the equivalent 500us with msrp of who knows what. around that time you would need to tack on 30% to the cdn dollar. sounds very big if i want it to. XD

 

Okay, spent a few hours ripping my car apart and storing the parts. I'm too busy to do this upgrade all in one day. I also have the front door panels off.

 

So is there room to dynamat the rear deck? I'm worried about overdoing it to the point where the rear cover won't fit back on! Is it best to just use small pieces around all the clips and parts?

 

It'll go back on fine. As long as you're careful around the clips and don't make one area thicker than the rest it won't hump up on ya. Looks like good progress though!

While you've got the rear seat out, take the ski-pass window thing out as it will make the area much larger.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Ran the power last night:

 

Good work so far man It was a pain in the ass for me to run the power wire for my setup lol

 

I have another question. I just realized that my amp has a left and right RCA for the mono sub input. I was going to run high input from the stock sub to the amp. Do I connect to only the left or right?

 

Kappas for the front. Huge ass magnet. I'll need to cut out the whole basket.


Kappas for the rear:

 

Most amps will sum the two channels information into one. One of the reasons for the L/R inputs is your amp also has a internal crossover that allows you to output the high pass signal to another amp.

No quite sure if the amp you're using sums L/R or not, so I'd just buy a splitter. They're cheap. You can try it both ways and figure out or whatever. Can't hurt to run one though.


Splitter
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

RCA (if you needed one; they have other sizes too)
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description

 

Not sure if I like this setup yet. What do you guys think? Maybe paint them black? They stand out a little too much for my taste.





I guess they are not too bad.

 

Door speakers:

 

Just realized the tweeters only go down to 3,500hz. Seems like they would be better suited to a 3-way.

 

What should they go down to?

 

Well I cross mine at 2.25/24db and can take them down to 2.0/24db. You get beaming around 2500hz with a 6.5" speaker. With no TA..its going to be that much worse for stage height and width

 

Amp, rear channels and sub test.

 

Okay, I have another question for you guys. I noticed during my test run that the 6.5s on the back deck where bouncing like crazy when the 12" hit. I turned off the sub from the HU and they stopped bouncing. Is that normal? I don't have the back seat on yet either. Is that from the pressure?

 

I'm sure they might move if the deck isn't deadened or somehow isn't that secured, but they shouldn't be bouncing from a single 12"

Since you have the backseat out I'd take off the rear deck liner and make sure everything is secured down. Sounds like you missed a few screws or something.

 

Oh, the speaker's frame isn't bouncing. They aren't even bolted down yet. The cones are bouncing with the bass hits as if the pressure from the 12 is moving them. The rear deck speakers get the same signal when I turn the sub off with the HU right?

 

Another question:

I did not need to trim the inside door skin at all to get my speaker to fit. The magnet is so big that it takes up almost the whole hole. The bottom has a little air space, but the top is touching. I don't think I even need to do any baffle for water because it is so close.

Will this limit the output of the speaker since it doesn't have much access to the door cavity?

I also connected the front speaker/tweet combo last night and noticed a slight hiss. I'm using high inputs. This his is the same at all HU volumes, but is louder with increased gain settings. I have the gains turned down on all inputs.

Is this what would be corrected by low inputs? I know you have the possibility of noise with low input too. Engine noise I assume. If I wire it with low inputs, can I still adjust my bass and treble from the HU? Also, what filters have you guys been using between the HU and the amp to remove the engine noise?

I was able to run my wire into the driver's door last night. The hardest part was finding it on the other end. I fished for about 20 min. My arms are all cut up.



I wasn't able to use the drill method in the white connector. The area I drilled was used to clip the boot back over the harness. I chose to notch the door and run the wire next to the connector.

Since I didn't have a front signal yet, I used the rear to listen to the left front, rear and sub. The highs were very high. I had to push the -6db button on both 6.5s. It was still overpowering. But, I don't have my dynamat on the door yet so I'm hoping that will bring out more of the mid.

 

I have an idea:

If the highs are too much for my taste, could I just power them from the front channel of my amp with the supplied crossover. The front mids I could power with the rear channel. Would it be bad to send full range to the mids, or would I use the low pass filter on them? That prob. would allow enough mid.

I've heard that others on here don't even use their rear speakers. I could run these off my stock amp. Then, I could use the gain to change the balance of my tweeters and the fade on the deck to adjust it on the fly. Has anyone done this?

 

.

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm running I like most was trying to keep it all in the family. I'll complete my setup as planned and if they are still too harsh, I'll just swap out the fronts.

What do you recommend I put up front then without breaking the bank?

 

The speakers must breathe freely. They are made to be installed in a door. If the magnet is plugging off the hole to the door, the Qtc will be pushed up too high and they will have no low end and will sound unnatural. Deadening is a must as well. Not only for resonances but because it helps to reasonably separate the front wave from the back wave which will greatly increase midbass.

 

All depends on what your budget would be. When will you get to listen to them and decide??

How much do you think it reasonable around the speaker?? I had to cut quite a bit of metal for the RK6's, but the cxs62's are as big. I would think they're okay as I have plenty of midbass.

You decide if you're going to ditch the MS-8?? I just found out that FedEx is going to take liability for the IDmax and pay out. The guy sent in the receipt, but the lady at FedEx is claiming it looks like it says $40.00 on the receipt lol. I said no...VERY unlikely lol. I'm sure there's another 0 there, but I can't get the check until he takes care of it and he hasn't been on DIYMA for a day or 2 now. I wouldn't think he'd leave the forums just to take my $400 check, but who knows. He sells WAY too much shit on there to just leave

It's happened to me before though...

 

Ok guys, the snow melted enough for me to move my car into the middle of the garage. Since this is the first time I've had the engine running with the amp hooked up, I noticed that the hiss is louder. It was constant. It didn't change with engine RPMs or the blower motor.

It was pretty bad. I decided to see what the low level input would sound like. It was HORRIBLE. I didn't even have the engine running when I tested it.

So, now that the hiss is louder, I guess my question is how do I get rid of it? Do I need to run some type of unit before the amp or is it that my tweeters are just too loud?

Also, is there a 12v feed that turns off with the HU?. That way I can turn the amp off when I turn the HU off. This way I don't have to hear the hiss until I can get it fixed.

 

At this point, it almost seems like I'm talking to myself. But, I did a little research last night because I can't stand the hiss. I ordered the matrix and will be wiring my inputs pre-amp. Apparently there is a switch in the matrix that eliminates the noise in the TL.

Will I still be able to control bass, treble etc from the HU with the matrix pre-amp setup?

I messed with my amp crossover settings and was able to get a lot of mid range even without dampening on the doors so I think I'm going to be happy with the setup regardless. I just need to get rid of the hiss and then I'll be happy.

I've read that it is best to mount the matrix as close to the HU as possible but noticed that everyone has it in the trunk. Since there isn't much room up front, I'm going to try the trunk.

 

Did you do anything in your setup for the balanced differential signal? The matrix will take care of this. It will whine if you try and use a balanced differential signal with an amp/processor/whatever that does not accept it.

 

Yeah, that's what I learned over the weekend. Either way, I hope the matrix takes care of it.