Audio signal pre-amp or post-amp?

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Old 06-05-2013, 01:15 PM
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Audio signal pre-amp or post-amp?

I am about to install an Arc SRI to integrate aftermarket amplifiers with my OEM head unit. I am trying to decide whether to take the signal before or after the factory amplifier. Does anyone know if taking the signal before the factory amplifier will cause me to lose steering wheel volume control, hands-free, etc.?
Old 06-05-2013, 01:29 PM
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Nope all functions remain! Post amp signal is crap. Always go pre amp
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:27 PM
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The SRI is a line output converter (LOC), not a line driver. If you use it you will need to tap the post-amp signal. The SRI manual states that its input voltage range is 1.8VRms-19VRms. The TL preamp signal is less than 1 volt.

You might be able to connect the preamp signal to the Aux input, but you would be wasting about 90% of the functionality of that unit by connecting it in this manner.
Old 06-05-2013, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rich20730
The SRI is a line output converter (LOC), not a line driver. If you use it you will need to tap the post-amp signal. The SRI manual states that its input voltage range is 1.8VRms-19VRms. The TL preamp signal is less than 1 volt.

You might be able to connect the preamp signal to the Aux input, but you would be wasting about 90% of the functionality of that unit by connecting it in this manner.

Thanks for the input. I called Arc, and they said the SRI will work with a signal that is below 1 volt and that pre-amp would be the ideal location from which to obtain the signal.
Old 06-05-2013, 05:10 PM
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what are you trying to accomplish with that device?

you already have a full range signal available at pre-amp out of just Left and Right (if you're playing anything other than DVD-A)

do you mostly listen to DVD audio? that would be only reason to complicate things, since our HUs can't downmix
Old 06-06-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cnwahlheim
I am about to install an Arc SRI to integrate aftermarket amplifiers with my OEM head unit. I am trying to decide whether to take the signal before or after the factory amplifier. Does anyone know if taking the signal before the factory amplifier will cause me to lose steering wheel volume control, hands-free, etc.?
Sorry I missed your email. The answer given is correct. Shouldn't lose anything.

Originally Posted by rich20730
The SRI is a line output converter (LOC), not a line driver.
The SRI will increase voltage to 7volts RMS
Attached Thumbnails Audio signal pre-amp or post-amp?-screen-shot-2013-06-05-11.58.48-pm.png  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by niebur3
Sorry I missed your email. The answer given is correct. Shouldn't lose anything.



The SRI will increase voltage to 7volts RMS
Thanks, Jerry!
Old 06-06-2013, 12:13 PM
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That's a lot of money to spend on that. Might as well get a full processor. If all you are looking for is a line driver, this is a better choice. Handles differential signals, on the two channels you need. TL doesn't need summing.
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate BLD Balanced Line Driver: Electronics Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate BLD Balanced Line Driver: Electronics
Old 06-06-2013, 12:22 PM
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that's why i'm asking what the goal is
the summing may be needed for 5.1 content depending on the other devices involved in the install

but if he's e-mailing back and forth with Jerry, he's in good hands
Old 06-06-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by geekybiker
That's a lot of money to spend on that. Might as well get a full processor. If all you are looking for is a line driver, this is a better choice. Handles differential signals, on the two channels you need. TL doesn't need summing.
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate BLD Balanced Line Driver: Electronics
This requires two units, one for the front and one for the rear, correct?
Old 06-06-2013, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD
This requires two units, one for the front and one for the rear, correct?
Depends on what you want to do with it. Lots of people are running the rears off the stock amp. If you're amping the rears, the amp will normally duplicate the channels front to rear for you. If having fade control from the HU is important to you, you'll need more channels. At that point the rears aren't 100% full range IIRC and you might want summing anyways.

So the whole goal of the system is pretty important. If you're going to pay for the ARC SRI to get all the channels controlled at the HU, its worth the extra money for a full processor at that point. I guess I just don't see the value in it. If we didn't have a full range channel to use, sure. But that's not the case. FWIW you don't even need the BLD if you buy the right amp. You can run the low level preamp direct to some amps.
Old 06-06-2013, 02:37 PM
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^^ +1
Old 06-06-2013, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by geekybiker
Depends on what you want to do with it. Lots of people are running the rears off the stock amp. If you're amping the rears, the amp will normally duplicate the channels front to rear for you. If having fade control from the HU is important to you, you'll need more channels. At that point the rears aren't 100% full range IIRC and you might want summing anyways.

So the whole goal of the system is pretty important. If you're going to pay for the ARC SRI to get all the channels controlled at the HU, its worth the extra money for a full processor at that point. I guess I just don't see the value in it. If we didn't have a full range channel to use, sure. But that's not the case. FWIW you don't even need the BLD if you buy the right amp. You can run the low level preamp direct to some amps.
Since when is $200 in the same ballpark as a full processor? The benefit of having this is you can run the balanced lines directly into it (no soldering RCA ends) and keep your sub control from your head unit, while boosting voltage.

Buying the right amp has nothing to do with it. Our HU maxes out as less then 1 volt. That means most of the time you are at .2 or so. I can guarantee anyone going straight into an amp will not get full rated power from their amp. They may be happy with their sound and volume, but that doesn't mean you are getting full power. Music is dynamic and boosting voltage is never a bad thing.
Old 06-07-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by niebur3
Since when is $200 in the same ballpark as a full processor? The benefit of having this is you can run the balanced lines directly into it (no soldering RCA ends) and keep your sub control from your head unit, while boosting voltage.

Buying the right amp has nothing to do with it. Our HU maxes out as less then 1 volt. That means most of the time you are at .2 or so. I can guarantee anyone going straight into an amp will not get full rated power from their amp. They may be happy with their sound and volume, but that doesn't mean you are getting full power. Music is dynamic and boosting voltage is never a bad thing.
Buying the right amp has everything to do with it. Some amps accept differential signals, others do not. Some handle the low voltage fine, others do not. My amp was able to go into clipping with the gains only about halfway up for example. Its not even a particularly expensive amp. You buy the right amp, you don't need a BLD, ARC SLI, or processor to have pretty good sound.

I got a used processor for not a lot more than $200. I'm aware that you can spend $1000 on a processor, but that doesn't mean you have to. The point being if you're trying to do a setup on the cheap the ARC SRI doesn't buy you a lot. The TL doesn't really need the summing function and the right amp will take care of the rest. If you're going higher end, you might as well take the $200 you'd spend on the SRI and get a full processor.

The SRI just occupies a weird mid-range that I don't think is particularly useful on the TL. Aka the money would be better spent elsewhere. I guess if you already own amps you want to use and absolutely need the HU controls for everything...
Old 06-07-2013, 02:54 PM
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I am running the JL700/5 direct to amp no driver. I used it because it is known to work well with the low input voltage from this HU. I wonder what it would sound like witk a BLD or something?? Curse you Jerry. gain is set at an average level now.
Old 06-07-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
I am running the JL700/5 direct to amp no driver. I used it because it is known to work well with the low input voltage from this HU. I wonder what it would sound like witk a BLD or something?? Curse you Jerry. gain is set at an average level now.
You're betting that your line driver amp circuit is cleaner than your amp circuit. If you're not getting close to maxing your gains, I think you'll just waste money. Only real positive of a LD would be that you could run higher voltage on the long run to the amp if you install the LD up front. If you're having noise issues in your RCAs you'd be amping the noise less.
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