italian_spak

So ive run my remote from fuse 32,

Ive grounded my 4awg in the trunk and not in a existent oem ground

Ive run my 4awg from the battery with a 50A fuse

I hooked up my Stinger SLOC to the oem subwoofer wires to create some RCA outputs

Everything is hooked up the way its supposed to and NO CURRENT IS GOING TROUGH, THE LIGHTS ON THE AMP DONT LIGHT UP

HELP ME OUT I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TO DO NEXT

THANKS FOR HELPING

italian_spak

if anyone got their remote wire hooked up somewhere else than into fuse No.32 under the steering wheel pls tell me now

thanks

italian_spak

ok i dont think the problem is my remote wire, i went n buy a tap in fuse where i hooked up my 16awg remote wire and the amp turned on, but after 2 seconds it turned off then came back on for 2 seconds and back off, so right now im thinking it might be the SLOC that i bought, ive read up on it some more and found out it can only transfer signals under 12watts per channel

CAN THIS BE THE PROBLEM???

Does anyone know how many watts the Navone LOC is admissible to?

Crook

What amp are you installing?
Do you have a multimeter to check the current at the power terminals and ground wire on your amp?

You could have a bad ground or blown fuse on the amp.

We need a little more information to try and help you troubleshoot.

italian_spak

Im installing a MA Audio model M1889i monoblock 2ohms @800wrms with a 12'' pioneer tw-2000sp, i screwed in my ground on the chassis right behind the rear seats with a gold plated connector where the ground is attached to.

I dont have a blown fuse since the light of the amp comes on for 2 seconds and then turns off for 2 seconds and turns back on and vice versa but i never get sound even in those 2 seconds...probably isnt on long enough for sound transfer.

I will get a multimeter to test it out, i hook it up on the amp where the positive and negative sits right?


Can somone confirm me that the problem isnt the LOC?

Crook

I don't think the LOC is affecting the amp unless the amp also has a built in RCA audio signal sensor to turn it on also. If it did, it usually wouldn't have a remote turn on terminal.


I couldn't find any information on that model subwoofer you mentioned. How many voice coils and what are the ohm ratings of the voice coils. Are you getting any sound or thump out of the amp at all?

Here are some trouble shooting tests you can try.

-Disconnect the Pioneer speaker wires from the amp and see if it still has the problem staying on.

-Unplug the LOC and RCA Cables from the amp and check for the same problem.

-Pull the fuse out of your 4awg wire coming from your battery. Disconnect the remote turn on wire from the amp terminal. Use a jumper wire to connect the 4awg wire to both of the power and remote terminals (temporarily). Put the fuse back in and see if the amp will stay on.

These are just tests to see if you still have the same symptoms. Let us know what you find.

Kirk3272

iTrader: (1)

I took my remote from the remote wire between the head unit and amp. Do not use it directly but use it to power a relay.

Tell me more about the ground wire. Did you remove the paint? Using a star washer?

K

italian_spak

i didnt remove any paint ....i think my ground might be the problem...The loc has 2 positive wires and 2 ground wires, is it right to put the positive wires togheter and same for the negative and to plug them on the positive and negative wires from the oem subwoofer?? Always keep in mind that an LOC is usually wired to 2 speakers thats why we have 2 + wires and 2- wires...Ive checked out the Navone Ne-7v and its good for 80 watts per channel and the loc i got is good until 12 watts per channel


Can anyone come back on this to confirm that my loc isnt the problem?

italian_spak

hey Crook the sub is a TS-W2000SPL 12inches

Crook

I don't think the LOC is causing your amp to turn on and off over and over again. Heck I'm still using a cheap $20 Scosche LOC on my sub that I bought a couple of years ago from Walmart. It's blue in color and they still sell it. It was made for two channels so I just used some jumper wires on the input terminals to create two channels from the single subwoofer wire. Works like a charm.

Is your sub a dual voice coil sub and is the impedence of each voice coil 2 ohms? If so, maybe you are are wiring both voice coils to the (possibly bridged) amp in "parallel" instead of series which is creating a 1 ohm impedence load on your amp which may only be 2 ohm stable. It's possible that the amp has a protection circuit that is turning itself off.

I wouldn't leave out possibility that you have a bad ground either. You may have grounded the negative wire to a painted panel that was attached to another painted panel with glue or poor tack welds. Double check that again and absolutely do not grount anything to that shiny galvanized oblonged shaped metal object under the rear seat cushion with wires already going into it.

Let use know if you have made any progress with the troubleshooting.

csmeance

is the power wire giving the AMP a constant power supply after the AMP is switched on or is it fluctuating. As for the ground, did you ground it on one of those vertical bars that help hold the rear deck up? I would try grounding on the rear quarter panel for a better ground if you do suspect the ground. Lastly, check all the wiring for maybe a small snip iin it as it could be shorting.

Just on a side note, what amp is it? Is it one of the AMP's which turn on when an input signal (sound) is sensed or is it the convential type where the amp is turned on by a switch which send a 12V signal? If it is the one with the auto-sensing sound, then it could be the amp or LOC. I would recommend you to try it out with another AMP if you can get one to make sure that it isn't the AMP and it is something else when you are exausted with all of the other options

italian_spak

should i grind the paint to the metal and ground directly on that spot for a better connection? Maybe after all it might just be a faulty ground??

csmeance

try that, also one more question, how are oyu getting power for the switch to turn on amp? Is it 12v source or did you tap into the factory wires for the switch?

italian_spak

CS if you mean the start on switch for the remote turn on wire, i connected a add-a-circuit fuse to fuse number 32 in the front fuse pannel, im running a 16awg wire with a 7.5A fuse to it

csmeance

it could be a bad add-a curcuit as i came across a bad one when doing the carputer install.

italian_spak

im gonna sand the paint to the metal where my ground is installed and see if it works or else i go swap the circuit for another one and if that doesnt work im giving it to the dogs hehe

csmeance

before it goes ot the dogs, make sure that it is not the amp itself..... but good idea to redo the ground.

italian_spak

its not the amp man i tested it on my bro's car and it was powering on, gonna try the ground this weekend im sure its only that


let u all know

italian_spak

Problem solved the system works amazing

The problem was 1. The ground, where the silly that i am i didnt sand down the paint.

2. The wire that were connected from the sub to the connectors werent installed right from the previous owner of the system, so i unplugged them and welded the whole thing.

I am very happy about the system it plays so loud that my gain is at 1/2

The most amazing thing is that i didnt even need to remove the seats to fish the 4awg and remote turn on wires, i simply passed them trough the rear bench into the rear pillars where they came out into the trunk area...saved me many hours of work and lots of B*tching hehehe

Thanks to everyone for helping me out on this project, i will take pics of it soon when i finish my custom trunk