Anyone with Viper VX791 ....question about trunk release
#41
Originally Posted by BrandonClaps
zax123 your my only hope now!
If you need, I can send you the wiring diagram.
Good luck.
Steve
#42
Originally Posted by streese
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe you tapped the trunk light sensor somehow? Although my wife's trunk release works, and it disables the trunk sensor, the hatch on her SUV turns on the dome light, which sets off the alarm. Maybe you accidentally tapped a wrong wire somewhere?
If you need, I can send you the wiring diagram.
Good luck.
Steve
If you need, I can send you the wiring diagram.
Good luck.
Steve
#43
Originally Posted by BrandonClaps
i grabbed the door trigger from the bypasskit which actually grabs the dome lights including the trunk light
I think mine was like $70, and includes the rear defroster bus wire.
Let me know.
#47
Originally Posted by BrandonClaps
i looked at that one, but wanted a transponder module in the same bypass kit..... guess i paid the price to get that heh :/
I looked at yours too. My installer said he wouldn't put it in. Too many problems with them. Sorry......
#49
when u hit aux and then lock, it silents arms your car and disabled the warning shock sensor.....
props go out to Zax123 as he saved me from ALOT of headaches! Thanks again man i really appreciate it!
props go out to Zax123 as he saved me from ALOT of headaches! Thanks again man i really appreciate it!
#53
I just bought my VIPER car alarm with the LCD screen. I will have it installed in my car this Sunday and can't wait. I have a question though, the best buy rep told me I have to buy a module for the trunk to pop open, is this true?What about the dome light in our cars do i have to buy a module for that also so the lights can turn on when the door unlocks?
price keeps adding up
price keeps adding up
#54
you may not want to have best buy do it, and have custom shop do it that can get a bypasskit for you instead of DEI's bypass kit. Bypasskit.com integrates into everything even the transponder. It can be done without it (except the car starter) but requires more relays/diodes/labor.
#55
Originally Posted by BrandonClaps
you may not want to have best buy do it, and have custom shop do it that can get a bypasskit for you instead of DEI's bypass kit. Bypasskit.com integrates into everything even the transponder. It can be done without it (except the car starter) but requires more relays/diodes/labor.
The price included the labor, so it will be cheaper if i have bestbuy install it. do u know if i have to pay extra for dome light and trunk release to work with the remote though?
#56
Originally Posted by WDP-Acura TL
The price included the labor, so it will be cheaper if i have bestbuy install it. do u know if i have to pay extra for dome light and trunk release to work with the remote though?
#57
They don't NEED a module to connect it to any of the TL functions. They do need a transponder bypass for the remote start to work, that's all. The rest can be done with relays and diodes, standard alarm install stuff. Don't believe them if they tell you you need a module for the trunk pop and dome light. It's not true. The dome light they can do by diode-isolating the four door trigger wires. The trunk pop simply needs a relay since it requires a +12V pulse.
#58
Originally Posted by zax123
They don't NEED a module to connect it to any of the TL functions. They do need a transponder bypass for the remote start to work, that's all. The rest can be done with relays and diodes, standard alarm install stuff. Don't believe them if they tell you you need a module for the trunk pop and dome light. It's not true. The dome light they can do by diode-isolating the four door trigger wires. The trunk pop simply needs a relay since it requires a +12V pulse.
Can you be more specifiic with these relays and diodes? When I go get my car alarm installed on tuesday just ask the installer for a diode/relays for my domelight and trunk release ? Do you believe bestbuy sell these relays and diodes?
#59
In order to safely detect the door opening sensors on each of the four door, you need to diode-isolate the ground wire coming from each sensor. The installer will know what that means. If the installer doesn't, DON'T USE THEM. For the trunk, there is no wire in the car which accepts a ground pulse to pop the trunk. So you have to generate a +12V pulse. The best way to do that is with an automotive relay. It's very common alarm-install practice, and once again if your installer doesn't know how to do this, DON'T USE THEM. They should stock diodes and relays. As I said, it's VERY common practice.
#61
That is weird. My alarm with not( audiovox twoway) open the trunk if I do not disarm the alarm. On remote start, the car will disarm, and then start. If you do not put the key in the ignition, it will cut off once you put your foot on the break. I can also rearm if I like while the car is running.
#62
Originally Posted by WDP-Acura TL
I'm getting my Viper LCD car alarm installed today , where is the best place to install the switch to disable the car alarm?
#65
Originally Posted by WDP-Acura TL
where is your guys alaarm signal light located in your car. the installer wants to drill a small hole in the left pillar what do you guys think about that?
Blank panel next to VSA button
Top of steering column
Gauge cluster
In between the heat seater buttons
#66
When i unlock my doors with the viper remote my headlights turn on, but when i lock the door with the fob my headlights remain on. I was standing in front of my car for more than 15 sec's and lights remained on. Is it suppose to do this now?
#67
Originally Posted by WDP-Acura TL
When i unlock my doors with the viper remote my headlights turn on, but when i lock the door with the fob my headlights remain on. I was standing in front of my car for more than 15 sec's and lights remained on. Is it suppose to do this now?
#69
Originally Posted by zax123
Did the headlights eventually turn off?
no they didn't
there is another situation now,when i manually lock my car door before exiting and then arming the car with the viper alarm the factory alarm is armed. I noticed this today when i remote started my car the horn started blaring. Should the installer have deactivated my factory alarm?
#70
Originally Posted by zax123
Did the headlights eventually turn off?
i take that back i noticed today they did turn off
there is another situation now,when i manually lock my car door before exiting and then arming the car with the viper alarm the factory alarm is armed. I noticed this today when i remote started my car the horn started blaring. Should the installer have deactivated my factory alarm?
#71
Originally Posted by WDP-Acura TL
i take that back i noticed today they did turn off
there is another situation now,when i manually lock my car door before exiting and then arming the car with the viper alarm the factory alarm is armed. I noticed this today when i remote started my car the horn started blaring. Should the installer have deactivated my factory alarm?
there is another situation now,when i manually lock my car door before exiting and then arming the car with the viper alarm the factory alarm is armed. I noticed this today when i remote started my car the horn started blaring. Should the installer have deactivated my factory alarm?
#73
They should definitely have hooked up the factory disarm wire. The reason they didn't is that the only place to get at it is inside the driver's door and it's a pain to run wires into there. You can, however, buy a bypasskit which taps into the car's databus and does not require you to go into the door...
#74
Originally Posted by zax123
They should definitely have hooked up the factory disarm wire. The reason they didn't is that the only place to get at it is inside the driver's door and it's a pain to run wires into there. You can, however, buy a bypasskit which taps into the car's databus and does not require you to go into the door...
I think this is a thread consisted question: I dropped my '05 TL at the installer this morning (installing the Viper 791 alarm/remote start), dropped by a couple times during the day, an as of now...they haven't been able to get the remote start to work. He is suggesting using a univeral module that will hold my spare key behind the dash to solve the problem!!!??? Sounds way off to me...although I know absolutely nothing about the technology/electronics behind this stuff. Told him to contact tech support in the morning and work it out...was I out of line or should this be basic stuff for a "professional"?
#78
"Tell them to use a 556HW from Directed, and you won't need to leave a key in it."
I checked with them this morning, they had four boxes of the 556HW opened and had tried all four and they wouldn't link up with my key. I brought in my spare and valet keys...the spare didn't work, but the valet did, go figure. Also, they forgot to disarm the factory alarm...glad I was able to remind them based on what I learned from you guys...thanks!!
I checked with them this morning, they had four boxes of the 556HW opened and had tried all four and they wouldn't link up with my key. I brought in my spare and valet keys...the spare didn't work, but the valet did, go figure. Also, they forgot to disarm the factory alarm...glad I was able to remind them based on what I learned from you guys...thanks!!
#80
Originally Posted by zax123
I would recommend the bypasskits from bypasskit.com. They're great.
Also, the alarm goes off when I open the trunk...you guys talked about this at length earlier in the thread. I am going to have to take to car back to them tomorrow.