for the w7, i was offered 250. the offer for the 2 w6v2's is 325. both are great deals. i actually just realized my box is from bestbuy, the fierce audio one. it not an amazzing box, but it does the job i guess and i got it dirt cheap at the time. link is below:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Fierce+A...&skuId=9854216

 

W6 and W7 really shouldn't be compared to each other. They are for different purposes.

The one thing that they have in common is that neither are SQ subs at high wattage.

If weight and sound quality are your main goals, then go with a single high powered SQ 12 in a sealed box. Most of the companies in the list above make them around 1000W that you should be able to get in the same price range as the W7 listed above. Most of them can be in 1ish cuft sealed boxes too which can save your trunk space. The JL line is not good in high-powered sealed IMO.

 

Ok....so I'm thinking those specs for the box are wrong b/c it's got the height as 4" haha. Either way, it doesn't say what size MDF is used..could be smaller than 3/4". Doesn't say the total cubic feet of the box or what it's tuned to...but I can tell you right now its tuned WAAAY HIGH! There's a reason why your not getting any punch...your box blows! When your tuned at 40hz + it will become very boomy and lack that SQ-like punch. Your also kinda in the same boat as the other guy that's atop this forum in that you both have DVC 4ohm subs and your not getting what you can out of your amp/subs (though yours are 10's). Your sending each sub....assuming your wired up at 4ohms (if your not, your amp is about to blow lol).....around 325RMS, which isn't very much for those!


OK SO....the w6v2 is only offered in a DVC 4ohm which would put your right back in the same position of being underpowered. Depending on impedance of the w7....aka what is it?.....that might be your best best for weight, sound and cost.


Edit: Brain fart...the w7 is a 3ohm SVC sub, which is just weird.


Conclusion: I think you need to build/buy a ported box anywhere from 1.6-3 cu.ft. (alpine specs for ported) and tune it around 32-35hz. You'll get a great low end and it will sound MUCH MUCH better...I promise. Since you'd like to save space and your not super low on power, you should be able to get away with around a 2-2.5 cu.ft. box.

 

Oh yeah....and I've got plans for boxes 2cu.ft and 2.5cu.ft tuned to 30,32,35,40hz. Most places will charge your around $200 to build and it will only cost you a days labor and about $50. The place you buy the MDF will cut it to your specs and you can either cut out the sub hole or have them do it. I did mine to make sure they didn't make it too big as I didn't have a template.


You'll need:

one sheet of 3/4" MDF = $35
2 or 2.25" Wood Screws= $10
Wood Glue = $5
1 tube of caulk = $3

 

^^^ wow thanks! i think il probably go with the w7 to save some place and get nice sound at the same time. Since i can get bestbuy products on discount, what do you think of this box?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Fierce+A...&skuId=9853887

 

The 12" w7 calls for 1.75 cu.ft. ported, which doesn't save you a ton of room if you just went with a 2cu.ft box for the Alpine 10's. The 10's will more than likely be louder also. SQ-wise..not sure b/c I've never heard the w7 and its hard to say unless you compare them in the same car, same amp, etc that you'll be using.

About the box....no. Haha. Let me put it to you this way, those boxes are soo shitty and they have no idea what they're really doing or selling b/c they didn't put the volume, the actual port lengths inside the box, MDF size, etc. I can pretty much guarantee that it's tuned at 40hz or higher. You can buy a 1 million dollar sub but if you put it in a small, shitty box tuned to 45hz it will sound awful. Even with your discount you'd still save money by building one. There VERY simple to build, especially when you have the plans and have someone to cut it for you. You need to be slightly handy though...using a countersink bit before you put the screws in so they don't slit the MDF, etc.

Either way...you need a box! And not from BB


Edit: Just doing a few quick calculations in my dome....that box is around .75-1 cu.ft. I believe. Uh...no

 

Net volume: 2cuft
Tuning: 35Hz
Port Area:30 sq in(12"Hx2.5"W)
Dimensions:13.5H"X18D"x24W"



Welcome lol

 

lol okay well its nice to know that now. i will probably end up building a box to those spec above for the w7. thanks for all the info!

 

also, what thickness MDF is good to have as a minimum? 3/4, 5/8, etc

 

3/4" is fine 99% of the time. Also, if you've never built a box then you'll need some helpful hints...in which I'll get to later if you for sure go this route. Either way I'd build a box for the 12w7 or the 2 10" R's if you keep them. That box above and all my other plans already have taken into account 3/4" MDF.

 

I'll take a pic of mine when I get off work today. My dad and I worked on it, which brings me to say if its only your working on it your going to need a few furniture or big clamps. I'd definitely try to get another person lol. Not gonna lie, the box is pretty damn legit! Can't decide if I want to go get some kind of spray paint and make something cool. Maybe if I could find a massive TL emblem I could paint the TL silver on top and then paint the rest black. Hmm...haha

 

Jl's like boxes bigger than advertised

I'd still take the sa over the w7 due to it's funky ohm load and sensitivity

 

True dat! That's why I gave him the 2cu.ft. box. Though, I think I'd take the 2 10" type-r's over the SA-12 though....well....lol.

 

Own'd by double post

 

just googling around online and wondering how these boxes are:

http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12-Inch...6&sr=8-2&rps=1

http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E10Dsv-...781326&sr=8-14

pretty good prices considering i have free 2 day shipping with them

 

Atrend tunes at 40+hz...so they're AWESOME!

 

Prefab boxes are super fail

 

Edit: Just now remembered...you've got DVC 4 subs. Yeah, definitely sell and pick up 1 SA-12 or an Audioque HDC...put it in that box....and NEVER look back

 

aite well regardless, im gonna go with a single 12". I think i might go to home depot and get some of the mdf material, we having a blizzard here in NJ again so might make the box tomorrow as a project. Not sure if im going to go with the SA12 or the 12W7, all depends on what condition the w7 is in when i check it out.

TL-Noob, im going to go off those dimensions you gave me and get the materials. I was reading online that this other material called baltic birch is just as good but MUCH lighter, just a little bit more expensive. Anyone have experience with that? if its good, i will get that because of the weight

 

and whats the cutout for the actual sub diameter?

 

As far as the boxes go...I would do the one I've given already for the w7. If you go with the SA-12 I would go with a 33hz box but you could still get away with the 35hz box.

For Wood: I've never read nor heard of any Baltic Birch so I can't say there. I know when I was sponsored by Digital Designs they did all their stuff with MDF and if DD does MDF...you should too! haha.

For Materials: You'll need a countersink drill bit to pre-drill the screw holes and it will countersink the screw head at the same time so it sits flush with the box...and then you can screw the screws in. If your not completely familiar with this then you need to practice on the extra MDF you've got before you go working on the box. REMEMBER: Once you glue, nail, put a hole in the box, etc....that piece is a goner if you messed up. So be patient and think about what your doing.


Here was my process:

1. Measure/center the 2 10" sub rings on the front plate (1 12" in your case) and cut them out using a jigsaw.

2. Assemble front board and the side board that it connects to (the one without the port next to it). When you put these together you'll need to put wood glue along the edges because this is what will ultimately hold the box together, NOT the screws.

3. Glue/Screw both boards for the port onto the box.

4. Glue/Screw back and port side board onto the box

5. Place a board underneath your box and trace the outlines on the entire box. This way when your done tracing and you take the board out you can just put it on top and know exactly where all your boards are and you won't have to measure, etc to make sure your screwing into the port/sides/etc.

6. Glue/Screw top into place

7. Use a caulking gun and caulk all the seams on the inside of the box. This will help keep the air from escaping through the seams.

8. You'll have to measure out everything and draw it on the bottom board so you know where your screwing into. If you miss, even barely, you'll probably either split the wood or just straight up miss it and put a nice hole in the box. Big NO NO

9. Glue/Screw bottom on and put your hand/head inside and see where you need to caulk and go after it!! Seal that box!...but don't be too sloppy lol

10. Let the caulking dry/rubberize b/c the fumes (if your using a silicone caulk) can eat away at the subwoofer materials (heard this MANY times but I don't know what part it harms)

11. Drill holes for the sub. I used a weatherstrip/rubber type material that was very thin and that I could make circular to seal my subs since they didn't have the gaskets still on them. Worked out GREAT and raised the sub a few cm so it's not sitting flush with the box (helps to reduce peaky responses)

12. Drill a small hole just large enough for your wires to come through the box and to your amp. You should really have to tug on it to get them through.

13. Wire up subs/Insert them into box and hook up to amp.

14. Your Done!




This diagram will help with the order I went in....

http://dbdynamixaudio.com/72/l-slot-...re-calculator/

My Order in Cliff Notes: lol

1. Orange
2. Blue
3. Teal
4. Purple
5. Yellow
6. Red
7-8. Top/Bottom



Tips:

- Make sure all your wood measurements are correct and if you wanted post them on here and we can check them before you go get the big MDF sheet cut. Also, MDF comes in one BIG sheet so plan out all the boards so you'll only have to buy one sheet. I can help with this if you get stuck...

- I put screws every 2.5" but that might be a tad overkill. Just make sure you stay around 2-2.5" away from the corners of the box and the seams where 2 boards come together since your don't want them splitting on ya.

- If you don't have a subwoofer template then you'll just have to lay on there and draw the drill holes. You know its smaller than that! You can do a few measurements or do whatever you need to do but know that its better, actually....you HAVE TO be spot on or small b/c if you cut the hole too large then you can't add wood back to it! It took us twice b/c we had to go back and shave off a few cm or whatever.




That's all I can think of for right now.....I'm sure I'll put up more later.

 

Wow, that should probably go in the garage, very good write up. I actually just spoke with my dad as well, he said it shouldnt be too hard and we can do it this weekend. He used to be in consctruction and builds anything and everything he can, so i think this would be a simple task lol. il deff post up update/pics once the project goes underway. TL-Noob, those dimensions, write-up, and link were a life saver man, thanks!

 

update...made the box yesterday with my dad. Took about 3 hours total to cut, clue, nail, etc. I was able to obtain some heavy duty, pretty much "top of the line" plywood from the construction site for our new house, so i saved some money there. I know MDF and birch might be the best and blah blah, but this was free to me so i figured i would give it a try. I havent carpeted it yet because i still want to hear the sub in it, but i will post up some early pics soon.

 

im looking for carpet now to make it look nicer. i got the JL in there and it is LOUD. the box is huge but deff worth the size. anybody have any suggestions on sites to buy the carpet? i found a few on ebay by the yard and one on amazon, i think il only need one yard with a 57" width...

 

I might paint mine with a TL emblem or somethin...getting tired of the plain ol' carpeted box. You maybe even try a suede or pleather box!! Lol