sparkz

Here are the pin outs I used:

B5 RED/BLU Subwoofer(+)
B14 WHT/GRN Subwoofer(-)
B7 RED/YEL Amplifer ON


The plug you will want to tap from is the one that has all the same guage wires coming out of it.

sparkz

Check my post above for the pinouts. I ran 4GA wire from the batt to the back. Its easy to pass thru the firewall as you can follow the main engine harness into the cabin.

The amp is located in the front passenger kick panel area. Very easy to access.

Remote is hooked directly to the stock amp on wire.

I took my stock sub out. Plan to build a tunnel to "port" the sound into the cabin

iTISTIC

This is definitely good to know. I'll check that out when I pick up my car tomorrow.

So you were able to access these wires without unbolting the seat? I thought the amp was underneath the passengers seat, or is that what you meant by "passenger kick panel area"?

sparkz

Its pretty much below the glove box, where your passenger would rest their foots. On the right side you'll see the plastic trim covering it

Turbowhat2

yeah its very easy to access... just pull off the plastic cover, and u can see it. I was surprised at how small it was

pull it off gently tho, although it doesnt have real clips, it is loosely clipped on to other trim parts

TL-N

What kind of Hi-low is everyone using that will not burn out?

Turbowhat2

why do they burn out??

i bought a $25 thing from best buy... didnt look too high quality but i guess it works... The $20 ones at circuit city look like higher quality.

TL-N

Best Buy told me that the HU was too strong for their hi lo converter and i needed a converter that could handle the power.

Rich R

Thanks for the color codes Sparkz!
I managed to tap in line-level without the hi-lo converter and ran the RCAs right to the amp. (This is the correct way) Anyone who runs a hi-lo from the speaker level output is going to suffer from added noise and possible frequency roll off. (in the case of full range especially) I ran 4 gauge wire from the battery, found a nice ground under the seat, mounted a Thunder 4300x MTX amp (benched at 226Wx2 into 4 ohms bridged) under the seat, put a DVC 3.3 ohm 12" Earthquake woofer in a sealed enclosed tuned perfectly for a QTC of 1.1. (using the Thiele-Small QTS, Vas, and Fs parameters). After all this, I determined that I did not like it. I tried changing the woofer to a Fosgate XLC, and once again... still did not like it. I wound up taking it all out and putting it on a shelf. I guess I am used to my old Soundstream MC500 (oldschool I know) amp into 2x15" Fosgate subs. I can't quite put my finger on what I did not like. Maybe because the rest of the system couldn't keep up with the low bass I ran it flat and ran it boosted at 40hz by up to 18db.

On a related note, anyone who is thinking about tapping into the speaker level outputs of the subwoofer amp with hi-lo converters, you should reconsider. It's any easy patch into the pre-amp level outputs of the headunit once you know the color codes. I used a hi-lo the first time only to smoke the resistors in the h-lo converter. (smelled nasty) Also to note, if you are using a hi-lo converter for full range, your highs will suffer from hi-frequency roll off caused by the capacitive reactance of the cap/ coil used to match the impedance/ power level needed by your amp input. Just my .02

ed99

I use a Rockford Fosgate which I payed $35 bucks for. It is a very good brand name and you can adjust the sensitivity on it.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/ezcom...3=-999&L4=-999

vidoprof

The PORT is going through the pass thru in my rear seats.

With ported enclosures it is not like a sealed one. The subs don't fire in any particular direction because of the box they are in. They can fire anyway you want them to.. Mine happen to fire at each other and the bass comes through the PORT which i "piped" thru the passthru.

Ryan

Turbowhat2

that makes sense. thats sweet. is it a regular rectangular box or is it like a weird shape fiberglass one?

SoSoGuju

im thinkin of adding 2 12" L7's... maybe over kill but i have them sitting in my bedroom gathering dust. do subs really make the sound unbalanced with too much bass?? and does the trunk really rattle that much???

Usalinh

Hey, fellas I'm looking into upgrading the system in the car. i know the door and rear speakers are about 6 1/4 or so and the sub is 8. Do anyone of ya'll know if there is a aftermarket sub that would fit in the back deck where the stock one is now? Ive been looking at the JL sub I think it's the 8w3v2 or something like that. Would anyone know that would work in the car. I'm also looking to do the JL 5 channel amp which I had before and loved with some mb quartz all the way around except for the sub. Any suggestions?

2LOW4U

If you do a sub in the rear deck, it needs to be free air, like a JL 8IB4... If not the *W3 will need a small box built and attached to the rear deck somehow...

ChRiS_nYc

I had 2 10" L7's and it was way too much bass-trunk rattled way too much. It sounded great from the inside but outside of the car was a different story. If you do this you NEED the dynatmat license plate kit and should dynatmat the whole trunk too, since my car is a lease I couldn't do this so i pulled out the subs.

Usalinh

Hey, 2low4u do you think a 10" would fit in that back deck? maybe something like the JL 10w1v2? and do you think it'll get enoug air in that tight space to get some good sound out.

2LOW4U

Not sure man, but any sub that is not a free air design, which is made to work in an open air without an enclosure is going to suck... Most subs need an air tight box, or one with a port, and having no back pressure on the sub is going to sound terrible. I had 2 12IB4s in my first stereo, and it slammed, but the IB (free air JLs), don't drop below about 25 hertz, they sorta just rattle... I personally like deep shake the windshield bass, so you will want to get a box.

Dr.Murdock

The comp vr's are def not anywhere near 800rms, its more like 800 peak.

Anyways....here is my adtermarket sub. 12 inch Alpine Type-X...1,000 watts RMS and 3,000watts Peak. My entire car vibrates, and if put up high, i have ot constantly readjsut my rearview mirror. I set the gaisn real low and it still pounds like an atom bomb. I def need a dynomat on the trunk and licence plate. It sounds like my car is going to explode from the outside.

encrypted03

Just wondering, when tapping into the pre-amp sub wires, did anyone use just regular radioshack rca's, or some higher-end rca's like Monster or something?

encrypted03

anyone???

rickneuropa

Definitly! I just used an RCA cable that came with a Scoche amp wiring kit. Just cut off one end, and tapped into the preamp wires, and ran them back to my amp in the trunk. Works beautifully, and you can adjust the output of the Sub on the Head Unit.

As for questions on whether adding a sub will overpower the rest of the system, depends on how you set it up. If you use a cheap radio shack sound meter, and test disc, you can set the sub out put to either the same DB's as the rest of the speakers, or up to 10 db's more, and it will not overpower the rest of the system...more than that, and your system will sounds like crap in my opinion. All you'll hear is bass, and the midrange will be lost in the confusion. For SQ, this is the way to go.....if your a basshead, then it really doesn't matter. So, it's up to you, and your gains, on how it will sound. When setup properly, it sounds fantastic.

encrypted03

Awsome, thanks for the reply man! Just another question before I attempt this. I was looking around the amp, and there are a bunch of wires around it. Which ones am I going to tap into exactly? There are a bunch of plugs around there. I'll attach a pic I took, and let me know which ones I need from that pic. Thanks again!