Joe Foe from Buffalo

I herd a rummer that the OEM Gen3 TL speakers will sound pretty good if they have more power then the stock amp. Is this true? If so what amps should I consider to max the OEM speakers performance? I all ready have plans to replace the OEM sub with a JL 10W6v2 sub in one of uncald4 custom trunk boxes and power it with a JLHD750/1 to get the sub to move nicely. It would I think have to be a five channel amp for the two front,two rear and front center channel.

Trew

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother. The OEM speakers are crap. amp'd aftermarket components or coaxials will sound more than twice as good as the stock setup.

King of Pain

x2

I hate cars

My stock rears sound surprisingly good with an aftermarket amp. Clarity is especially good and I'm running them 4x their rated power.

However, I have them crossed over at 120hz because at this power level they bottomed out easily crossed at 80hz.

In reality, you need both the amp and aftermarket speakers. But as to which one makes the bigger difference, speakers or amp, I don't know. It's close.

I originally upgraded the front to Infinities and it was a nice difference. Then I upgraded to an aftermarket amp and the Infinities and the stock rears came to life all over again.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i heard the same thing from unclad4...the custom sub box vendor !!!

he told me to run 100x4 amp to stockies and said they will sound great....havent tried it thow !!!

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

sorry to thread jack but IHC, do you have infinity kappas???

I read/heard that the infinity kappa perfect 6.1's and mb quart pce 216's are excellent choices

i'm actually thinking of upgrading the front speakers with an aftermarket amp ... no idea where to start though LOL guess i'll be spending quite a bit of quality time in the "Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation" section @____________@

I hate cars

I'm not that good with car audio but I did like my Kappas when I had them, especially for the vocals. The only problem is the tweeters and a slight lack of midbass. The tweeters are pretty harsh and will fatigue your ears pretty quickly. If I had it to do over again I would've gotten just the mids for the doors instead of the 3-ways and some other silk dome tweeter for the dash.

They're great for the stock amp. Very efficient so you gain a little volume. They also bolt in with no cutting. But if you're going to install an amp anyway there are many other choices out there. My best advice is to listen to as many different sets as you can. What sounds great to one person may sound like crap to another so the internet is not a good place to go for advice.

I currently have Image Dynamics CTX65CS in the front and I love them. In my opinion the best $175 set out there and they will handle tons of power even playing at full range without a crossover.

I'm always in the LA area, you're more than welcome to hear it anytime. It would also give you an idea of how the stock speakers in the rear sound with an amp.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the detailed response! wow that'd be awesome! i'll PM you some day to see if I can get a taste of what those image dynamics sound like thanks again!

Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1
MB Quart PCE 216
Image Dynamics CTX65CS

Three components I'll start looking into (and hopefully find some real life examples as part of my research as well )

NetDiver

While I was a huge Infinity Kappa fan (had them in my Accord and CL, even at home I still have Kappa 6's), they do sound a bit "bright". You will find yourself turning down the high frequencies. All 3 choices will be a great improvement over the stock paper cones, but from experience, I would lean slightly towards the MB Quart speakers. Anyways, that's IMHO.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

cool, different opinions are exactly what im looking for at the moment ... then there's the task of seeking them out and trying to determine which sound quality i like best @____@

thanks again tho, will definitely look into the mb quarts

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I also herd from unclad4 saying if we over power the OEM speakers they will come to life. He also went on to say he has done it on many TL's with the same great results. I have to value his word more then the replies so far since he really does now his stuff and done it many times. My questions still is ,which amp options has anyone done or know will drive the two front speakers,two rear speakers and one center speaker and max them out? I would think he is saying though we don't need to after market amp the center channel. I all ready have plans to run the after market sub on it's own amp. Unclad4 also told me to think about: "You don't NEED a five channel amp. You can use a 6 channel amp... or a 4 channel and a mono (two amps)... or a 4 channel and a 2 channel (also two amps) I would do a good 4 channel and a nice mono channel on the sub. A good combo is the Rockford 400-4 and the 400-1. Or the JL Audio 300/4 and 250/1. Both great amp options. Rockford is the better bang for the buck."

gotkilled

iTrader: (1)

any recs on a 6 channel amp? it looks like most of the 6 channel amps are in the 500+ range.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

This is what I have been told about a 6 channel I was thinking about "The JL Audio XD600.6 is a good amp and there are a few others that would do well in your system. The problem is that the 10W6V2 needs more power than any 5 or 6 channel amp can offer. I'm not a fan of one amp running everything. It limits your audio gear because of the power output. I would do a good 4 channel and a nice mono channel on the sub"

I hate cars

I agree with you but an alternative would be to bandpass it in a box similar to mine and CSWBiggs. Some of the best SQ I've heard and ultra efficient. I had to turn my gains down by over half when I went from a sealed enclosure to a bandpass. Even when it's cranked, the subs barely move at all.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I don't understand what to do about the center channel. Guess I could just get a good four channel amp for front and rear speakers and a mono for the sub and leave the center to run off OEM amp. If center doesn't sound good enough get another mono amp for center. After that if I'm still not happy upgrade the front speakers 1st. Then center...then rears. With a good amp I could adjust the amp/s to max out each.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

according to my understanding, upgrading the center channel is not a noticeable upgrade, which is why I'm going to leave it stock given my budget. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong please!)

I hate cars:
Sorry to keep on bothering you about this, but may I ask where you purchased your ID components??? I'm currently looking at www.woofersetc.com, as suggested by another member on the forums.

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

I love you guys!

There is no harm in amping your OEM front and rear speakers before you decide to change them out. Most of you know my reputation. I'm not here to sell speakers or amps and such.... unless you want. But! I know something about something sometimes. The OEM Honda/Acura speaks sound like poop for sure. Until you amp them correctly. I'm talking about using a nice OEM to aftermarket interface like the LC6i or the COE6 or the Rockford 360. Also, using a clean tweakable amp.

Word?

I hate cars

That's where I got mine and they're located in or near LA so you'll have them quick.

I still suggest you listen to some others. I would hate for you to buy them based on my advice and not like them.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

definitely! I'm going to continue using my rear oem speakers with a set of front components all hooked up to a 4-channel amplifier ... hopefully soon

cool thanks! Yeah, I was just curious as to where most people get their audio equipment in socal haha
yeah, i'm going to try and listen to all my options first, factor in the cost, and then decide to put down money on one set + amplifier
I might be meeting up with jptl04 and princelybug tomorrow as well since they're getting a photoshoot done, so hopefully I can get a taste of what they're using as well

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

thanks again ihatecars!

Joe Foe from Buffalo

LOL Now that you /we outed you uncald4...LOL in a post for all to learn about this. Hope you stick around the website to give us your words of wisdom.

I'm all most ready to do a good after market 4 channel for front and rear OEM speakers @ a solid 50watts per speaker.... and leave the center running off the OEM amp... and run a JL 10W6v2 sub in one of uncald4 custom trunk boxes and power it with a JLHD750/1....or a bigger amp if anyone knows the limits of this sub....I want to max it out or close to it to really get it to move/make me go deaf..er.

All most last details:

1) When we do this is it ok to drive the OEM front and rear speakers with the OEM speaker wire that is in place all ready. Or will we notice a difference running better wire and if so what kind? This website will make it easy to say consider XYZ wire
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_50600/S...?tp=2917&avf=N

On the after market amps for sub and OEM front and rear speakers audio source...

2) Is it ok to just unplug the OEM wire sub leave sub in place and use that same audio wire that is coming off the OEM amp to sub and make a wire to go in to the after market amp or tap in to the subs audio before the OEM amp?

3) Is it ok to use the do the same with the front and rear speakers or tap the audio before the OEM amp?

4) Is a gadget like this worth useing?
http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_1...p.html?tp=6870

Joe Foe from Buffalo

Anyone know how much power the OEM front and rear speakers will take before they die? Seems safe to say they can take at least 50watts each.

I hate cars

I'm pushing about 90 watts to mine but like I said I had to raise the crossover to 120hz to keep them from bottoming out. They should handle 50 watts no problem.

NetDiver

That's pretty safe bet. For the best performance, don't feed them frequencies below 100 Hz, and you'll be fine. Cross them over at 100, or like IHC did, at 120, and you could go with even higher wattage than 50. Remember, you're more likely to cause damage with underpowering them, than overpowering.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I was thinking/hoping I could use this set up, JL Audio HD750/1 for the 10W6v2-D4 subwoofer and a HD 600/4 that is 4 channel amp in the line up that would “mate/stack” with the HD750/1 amp. However the 600/4 is 150 watts by 4 channels. Yes I would raise the crossover to 120hzt o be safe ...just not sure if the OEM's will take it.


Not sure why my fonts/font size are messed up...and I can't fix them... odd.

I hate cars

I'll put it this way, I fully intended on buying an aftermarket set for the rear. I tried to blow the stock speakers and listened to them much louder than I normally listen to music and the only thing I ran into was them bottoming out at lower frequencies but I never hurt them.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

LOL Too bad you didn't try the same on the front. LOL worst case is I just get new front speakers now if I blow them.

JackSampson

iTrader: (2)

For amping the front speakers only, where do you add the loc?

mavriq81

Not sure but I would love some info about it

Joe Foe from Buffalo

What are you referring to? What is a (loc)? Location Of Connection? If so I would think after the OEM amp that if you don't know the location and wires I know for a fact I for one have posted many details in the past and can be found easily via a search or at least my past posts.

JackSampson

iTrader: (2)

Loc is line output connector. It is used to convert factory speaker wires to rca connections to plug into the upgraded amp.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I plan on tapping in to the speakers wires after the oem amp and use these to convert to RCA JL XD-CLRAIC2-SW (x’s 2) RCA to Speaker Wire Plugs
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...l.php?cat_id=5

Then use RCAs to the amp with these

JLXB-BLUAIC2-18 RCA wires
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...r=91628/1451.0 <http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=91628/1451.0>

JLXB-BLUAIC4-18 RCA wires
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...LUAIC4-18.aspx <http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...LUAIC4-18.aspx

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I have my stock speakers running off a ) JL HD900/5 amp
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=537
with a JL Clean Sweep CL441dsp
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?page_id=211
and JL 10W6v2 Sub Woofer
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6
in one of the custom sealed trunk enc losers.......and have to say it sounds AMAZING!

JackSampson

iTrader: (2)

Hey Joe do you have any pics of the install? I am just trying to add a 4 channel amp to the front door and rear deck speakers. I am still not sure where to splice in for the amp signal. I located the factory amp but there are several connectors. Also is there an adapter I can use to prevent cutting wires?

Joe Foe from Buffalo

I can send you some really good info on the wires too tap in to from a install JL Audio did and documented it on a gen3 TL. Pm me your email address. I don't have my install done yet (just have it all wired) I see all ready though even though the oem speakers sound good they do not handle the power of my amp that at the moment I'm pushing the oem's to far and I will need to upgrade my front and rear speakers soon cause I like loud music or at lease try to figure out a way to get more power the sub cause what I'm really after is bass not volume. I also have to figure out how to disable the noise cancellation in my 05 non navi TL since it trying to cancel the power of the amp. I have read the unit is behind the rear or front dome light. I had both apart yesterday and can not find it.

I hate cars

There's no noise cancellation on any base model TL and only on '0-'08 TL-S models.

Joe Foe from Buffalo

Hmmm interesting. Some thing then is seeming to pumping up my volume by it's self and I also have background white noise, even with the head unit turned off I get white noise from the speakers. Yes my after market amp is off also when the radio is off. Same with my JL Clean Sweep off when the head unit and amp is off.

DCP

To whom ever tried this method, how are you connecting the output wires coming from the amp back to the oem speakers? How are you bypassing that clip on the oem speakers to connect your wires?

Joe Foe from Buffalo

This may not the post to ask this and I will start a new post if I get no good replies for more bass using our oem head and amp to after market amps and subs/ and oem or after market speakers. Please help me get more bass I am not happy with my JL Clean Sweep connected to my front and rear channel out puts after the oem amp and going to my JL HD900 which in turn goes to my front and rear channels and my JL HO210G-W3v2 subs should blow my needs away that I purchased after I was not happy with the bass the JL W6 in the custom sealed trunk box that a fellow website member makes.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ice_Comparison
I'm not happy cause the system lacks bass that should be more present. I thinking cause I am not using the oem head/amp units sub channel that only puts out low frequencies for a sub woofer. In part I also thinking the oem front channels are only given mids and highs from the oem head unit/amp....I also thinking I will need to get some how add or get a device that does some thing like what a clean sweep does but does it for at least five channels to include two fronts two rear and one for sub. I have been looking at the Audio Control EQS and LC6 or maybe LC8. Please give me your on if I'm thinking correctly or should consider some thing else.

jda123

You need to use the sub channel for the sub. I am not positive, but I could swear that the midbass don't go below 80-100. Drop a LOC on that sub channel and see if that fixes your needs. The HD900 has 3 inputs, right?