Adding a Sub
#1
Adding a Sub
Hi guys i just recently purchased a 2006 TL w/ Navi. I currently have a JL 500/1 with a 10" W6. I have been searching this website long and hard and found most of all my questions, the only question remains, is how can i connect my JL amp by using the "signal Sensing Turn-On Method" with out having do go behind the dash. (For those of you who do not know what that is, it is a feature that JL offers so that you do not have to run a remote wire to the amp. The amp can sense a signal from your speaker inputs and it will turn on the amp.) Now i did read where i could add a High/ Low convertor and connect that to the factory sub woofer wires, so i can still use the sub features on the navi. The only problem with the High/Low is that JL does not recommend a Low input signal. Is there something that i can connect back there that will give me High input signal? If so what is the recommended unit for it? Thanks for any help.
Kyle
Kyle
#2
I have a 250-1 with a HO110W6 and I just unplugged the sub speaker wire from under the rear deck and connected it to the inputs of the amp and set the amp to high level inputs, does the 500-1 and a selectable high/low input switch?
#3
yeah, it does have the switch, i haven't actually looked at the stock sub hook up, but what gauge wire does the stock sub have? I want to try to keep both subs in function, because i will be taking the box in and out of the trunk for rides home from college. So you are saying that you took the sub wires from stock sub and hooked then directly into the speaker input and just switched the setting?
#5
Originally Posted by Jax8287
yeah, it does have the switch, i haven't actually looked at the stock sub hook up, but what gauge wire does the stock sub have? I want to try to keep both subs in function, because i will be taking the box in and out of the trunk for rides home from college. So you are saying that you took the sub wires from stock sub and hooked then directly into the speaker input and just switched the setting?
#6
Re:
That's what I did with my MTX amp, but I disconnected the stock sub because it rattles like crazy. Just be careful to use the right polarity so your subs don't cancel. The wire size of the stock sub is probably 18GA.
The problem with that is, the JL has this feature, but I dont think that it has a high level input insert, like my Kicker amp thats in my other car. The only thing that i see on the amp is for RCAs, which brings me back to my first question, Can i use a high/low converter from the stock sub wires, to get my RCAS then work from there? JL has this feature but they do not recommend a low input, would me adding a converter make it low, or would it still be considered high since it is after an amp? Oh and by the way thanks to you guys who reply, this site is extremly helpful and informational.
The problem with that is, the JL has this feature, but I dont think that it has a high level input insert, like my Kicker amp thats in my other car. The only thing that i see on the amp is for RCAs, which brings me back to my first question, Can i use a high/low converter from the stock sub wires, to get my RCAS then work from there? JL has this feature but they do not recommend a low input, would me adding a converter make it low, or would it still be considered high since it is after an amp? Oh and by the way thanks to you guys who reply, this site is extremly helpful and informational.
#7
Originally Posted by Jax8287
That's what I did with my MTX amp, but I disconnected the stock sub because it rattles like crazy. Just be careful to use the right polarity so your subs don't cancel. The wire size of the stock sub is probably 18GA.
The problem with that is, the JL has this feature, but I dont think that it has a high level input insert, like my Kicker amp thats in my other car. The only thing that i see on the amp is for RCAs, which brings me back to my first question, Can i use a high/low converter from the stock sub wires, to get my RCAS then work from there? JL has this feature but they do not recommend a low input, would me adding a converter make it low, or would it still be considered high since it is after an amp? Oh and by the way thanks to you guys who reply, this site is extremly helpful and informational.
The problem with that is, the JL has this feature, but I dont think that it has a high level input insert, like my Kicker amp thats in my other car. The only thing that i see on the amp is for RCAs, which brings me back to my first question, Can i use a high/low converter from the stock sub wires, to get my RCAS then work from there? JL has this feature but they do not recommend a low input, would me adding a converter make it low, or would it still be considered high since it is after an amp? Oh and by the way thanks to you guys who reply, this site is extremly helpful and informational.
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#8
Re:
Yeah it has both switches, the input sensor and the high/low input switch. If I was to add a high low convertor in the sub stock wires would i have to leave the switch at low, or would it still be considered a high level input?? the prob with a low level is, JL doesn't recommend the user to use a low level input and use the input sensor. Im trying to avoid having to run a remote wire
#11
Originally Posted by Jax8287
alright cool thanks for you guys help!
#12
Originally Posted by SPIN
Let us know how it sounds when you're done. I'm considering the same set up but am worried there will be too much bass and drown out the rest of the system.
#13
sub
question,when you installed the sub did you have to cut any wires on your stock system. how did you hook the sub up let me know. i want to add a sub to me acura but i dont want to cut any of the wires in my car because i have the navi. let me know
#14
Originally Posted by beefster86
question,when you installed the sub did you have to cut any wires on your stock system. how did you hook the sub up let me know. i want to add a sub to me acura but i dont want to cut any of the wires in my car because i have the navi. let me know
#15
Originally Posted by jjh1234
You don't have to cut any wires. All you have to do is tap into the two wires going to the OEM sub. You can use those blue connectors that you crush on to tap into the wire, or just use a knife and cut away some of the insulation and solder another wire to it.
#17
I'm getting ready to try this method you guys are describing, and I've seen this mentioned in several threads, but I never see anyone mention what colors the wires are or which is positive and which is negative. I'm gonna install my Rockford setup I've had in my last 2 cars. Any one care to answer that question? Thanks!
#19
Originally Posted by Thunder&Lighting
I'm getting ready to try this method you guys are describing, and I've seen this mentioned in several threads, but I never see anyone mention what colors the wires are or which is positive and which is negative. I'm gonna install my Rockford setup I've had in my last 2 cars. Any one care to answer that question? Thanks!
I know that somebody posted some scans of the wiring diagrams. Do some searching.
#20
Un-helpful
No need to reply if all you're going to say is do a search. That's worse than asking a dumb quesiton in the first place. I don't happen to think it's a dumb question nor are their any guarantees that if the wires are such and such color at some connector that they are that way by the time they make it to the sub. I would ask those that have done this to please answer the question at hand. Thanks!
#24
A high/low converter will work fine for the sub. Adding subs to the stock system will create a dramatic improvement and won't be over bearing unless you turn the amp's gain up too high. For another big improvement, I recommend changing the tweeters also to keep the lows and highs balanced with each other. The stock tweeters were too flat sounding for me even without my added subs. I switched mine out with some Infinity's that required minimal trimming to the underside of the stock grill.
#25
Re:
I agree i think the stock system is very flat and does not sound very loud compared to the 02 TL that i used to own. I might eventually switch all of the speakers out, or maybe just the tweeters... its Spring break so i have not finished the install... but i will update when I finish the project... once again thanks for all the help
#26
Originally Posted by Thunder&Lighting
No need to reply if all you're going to say is do a search. That's worse than asking a dumb quesiton in the first place. I don't happen to think it's a dumb question nor are their any guarantees that if the wires are such and such color at some connector that they are that way by the time they make it to the sub. I would ask those that have done this to please answer the question at hand. Thanks!
Hey idiot, I have bent over backwards to help others with their problems here. When I joined, I took to the time to read 100's of previous posts before I started asking dumb questions. You can speak up when you have more than 8 posts.
#27
Now that 's just rude and un-called for. I've been on the forums for more than a month and have literally read hundreds of posts just to try to find a consice answer to a very simple question. Useful information like this gets posted like this once somewhere once and you wade through litterally hunderds of posts like this one with no useful information in them and a bunch of responses from jerks like you saying "do a search" and calling people names. This is supposed to be about helping each other and this kind of attitude does little to foster a community of fellow enthusiasts. I got my answer from someone who actually understands this. I suggest you drop your flame vindetta and we move on. :angryfire
#28
You need to chill there guy. He helped you my mentioning someone had posted the diagrams and they're worth searching for. The world doesn't revolve around you and before expecting everyone to do the work for you, you should try a little to help yourself. THEN, if you aren't able to find what you're looking for, ask.
99% of the time, answers like that are coming from other people who just searched the forums for the last 50 times the same question was asked.
If you spent the same effort doing a few simple searches as you do whining about others you would already have answered your own question.
Helping EACH OTHER means it's a two way street...not we do all the work for you.
99% of the time, answers like that are coming from other people who just searched the forums for the last 50 times the same question was asked.
If you spent the same effort doing a few simple searches as you do whining about others you would already have answered your own question.
Helping EACH OTHER means it's a two way street...not we do all the work for you.
#29
I replaced the stock tweeters with these which made a big difference in clarity and crisp highs.
They fit snug between 3 walls on the under side of the stock grills. I used 3 dabs of epoxy to lock them in place on the grill. There was minimal modification or grinding to the underside of the factory grills so I can still reinstall the stock tweeters if I ever have to. The top sides of the factory grills are unchanged. I did use a dental pick tool to clear some the holes in the factory grill which were blocked by plastic.
They fit snug between 3 walls on the under side of the stock grills. I used 3 dabs of epoxy to lock them in place on the grill. There was minimal modification or grinding to the underside of the factory grills so I can still reinstall the stock tweeters if I ever have to. The top sides of the factory grills are unchanged. I did use a dental pick tool to clear some the holes in the factory grill which were blocked by plastic.
#31
Crook,
did you just replace the tweeters without replacing the amp? And it sounds that much better?
I may want to try this. What is the model of the Infinity tweeter you are using? 1011t?
thanks
did you just replace the tweeters without replacing the amp? And it sounds that much better?
I may want to try this. What is the model of the Infinity tweeter you are using? 1011t?
thanks
#32
Yes, I only replaced the tweeters. They are Infinity 1011t reference series, 4ohms. I got them somewhere online and they weren't really expensive. They do the job just fine for me.
The factory tweeters are also 4ohms. The new tweeters are louder and more dominant that the stock ones. This may be due to a wider frequency range that the Infinitis able to handle and the capaicitor's crossover ratings. The new tweeters also have a 1" silk dome tweeter and the stocks look like 1/2 to 3/4 inch in size.
The factory tweeters are also 4ohms. The new tweeters are louder and more dominant that the stock ones. This may be due to a wider frequency range that the Infinitis able to handle and the capaicitor's crossover ratings. The new tweeters also have a 1" silk dome tweeter and the stocks look like 1/2 to 3/4 inch in size.
#34
Originally Posted by Toronto-TL
I have a 250-1 with a HO110W6 and I just unplugged the sub speaker wire from under the rear deck and connected it to the inputs of the amp and set the amp to high level inputs, does the 500-1 and a selectable high/low input switch?
#35
Originally Posted by Deenice21
so you didnt use RCA's??? i just bougt a US amp 2150 600x1@4 (bridged) now i need to steal someones box design for a single sub
I added an RCA connector to the stock sub wires then plugged it into the 250-1 amp and set the selector to high.
Check out JL's High Output (HO) ported enclosures, I'm using one in the trunk and it's like a fist in your back when it gets going and I can still access the spare tire.
I mounted the amp to the back of the enclosure so I can adjust the amp setting from the back set pass-thru.
#36
Originally Posted by Toronto-TL
I have a 250-1 with a HO110W6 and I just unplugged the sub speaker wire from under the rear deck and connected it to the inputs of the amp and set the amp to high level inputs, does the 500-1 and a selectable high/low input switch?
thanks in advance
#37
Originally Posted by Toronto-TL
I added an RCA connector to the stock sub wires then plugged it into the 250-1 amp and set the selector to high.
Check out JL's High Output (HO) ported enclosures, I'm using one in the trunk and it's like a fist in your back when it gets going and I can still access the spare tire.
I mounted the amp to the back of the enclosure so I can adjust the amp setting from the back set pass-thru.
Check out JL's High Output (HO) ported enclosures, I'm using one in the trunk and it's like a fist in your back when it gets going and I can still access the spare tire.
I mounted the amp to the back of the enclosure so I can adjust the amp setting from the back set pass-thru.
i like the HO210R-W3v2 its just to find it now for a good price. Speaker Warehouse used to be down here (miami,fl) but i drove by it this weekend and some little cheap flea market type shop was there. i think Speaker warehouse was owned by the founders of JL audio.
#38
Originally Posted by Crook
Yes, I only replaced the tweeters. They are Infinity 1011t reference series, 4ohms. I got them somewhere online and they weren't really expensive. They do the job just fine for me.
The factory tweeters are also 4ohms. The new tweeters are louder and more dominant that the stock ones. This may be due to a wider frequency range that the Infinitis able to handle and the capaicitor's crossover ratings. The new tweeters also have a 1" silk dome tweeter and the stocks look like 1/2 to 3/4 inch in size.
The factory tweeters are also 4ohms. The new tweeters are louder and more dominant that the stock ones. This may be due to a wider frequency range that the Infinitis able to handle and the capaicitor's crossover ratings. The new tweeters also have a 1" silk dome tweeter and the stocks look like 1/2 to 3/4 inch in size.
You got me looking
I'm eyeing a set of these though:
Image Dynamics NX30
http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSNX30
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