250 amp alternator
250 amp alternator
well since i put all my new car audio in i have been have some voltage drop so i ordered a 250amp alt and was wondering if anyone on here has done this and seeing if it fixed there issues.. im running a big dry cell up front and a small dry cell in the rear and the factory alt is struggling keeping everything going...
here is what i have for my car audio
this has a pic of the small battery that is in the trunk.. it says its rated at 2000 watts





here is what i have for my car audio
this has a pic of the small battery that is in the trunk.. it says its rated at 2000 watts





I was told otherwise.. that having that extra battery back there when there is a heavy load it makes up for the pull and lag... this is base off of the same principle off of a spl car..
What are you running that's pulling so much power? I have 1200w available to my fronts and 1200w to the subs but it helps that they're efficient. I have no issues except at insane levels and it's just a little light dimming. Are you running just a single sealed 12"? I'll never go back to a sealed 12, they just suck up too much power for mediocre output.
You might want to listen to Kirk. Not many people on the planet that can compete with his car (and it's been proven in competition). I've seen the demonstration of what an additional battery does and it just loads down your alternator more. It's really only useful in conjunction with a high output alt which you may not require if you remove the second battery or with the engine off listening.
What are you running that's pulling so much power? I have 1200w available to my fronts and 1200w to the subs but it helps that they're efficient. I have no issues except at insane levels and it's just a little light dimming. Are you running just a single sealed 12"? I'll never go back to a sealed 12, they just suck up too much power for mediocre output.
What are you running that's pulling so much power? I have 1200w available to my fronts and 1200w to the subs but it helps that they're efficient. I have no issues except at insane levels and it's just a little light dimming. Are you running just a single sealed 12"? I'll never go back to a sealed 12, they just suck up too much power for mediocre output.
oh ya it did the same thing with this setup and my last setup.. with and without the spare battery.. also if i have it cranked up sometimes due to power drain it has put my amps into protection mode due to voltage drop
i am running a ported 2.4 cube box for a digital design 3512 with a 1200 watt audison 1dk amp
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I've always wondered if part of the problem is how the TL regulates voltage. It seems slower than other cars I've owned. I've noticed I'll get light dimming on a quick bass hit. But on a long deep bass note I get dimming and half a second later it brightens back up before the bass note is over like it doesn't react quick enough. Either way, I'm interested in your results with the high output alt. I haven't seen anyone do it in a TL yet.
did you do the big 3 upgrade? this might help
i have a 3200 watts hifonics running my 1 sub and 500 watts to my mids and highs. extra battery in the back with the big 3 upgrade and i have no issues with voltage or dimming lights
i have a 3200 watts hifonics running my 1 sub and 500 watts to my mids and highs. extra battery in the back with the big 3 upgrade and i have no issues with voltage or dimming lights
Admittedly curious about the ALT. I have refused to change mine out based on past experiences in other cars. One was an Accord with a well known alt MFG and they two never did get along. (Car and alt) Double check at what RPM the alt is '250 amps'. Amperage at idle is key to know. Have you done anything with the grounds? What is the current draw at idle on the amps? I have seen several threads over the years about a parasitic current draw in many TL's-What is the resting voltage of the battery(ies), voltage when running? Make sure the batteries aren't already low due to that. Also keep the battery itself in mind. Once dead it will only charge back to 90%, then 90% of 90% and so on. After its been depleted 6 times its near 50% of its former self.
Sorry for the questions. A properly working upgraded ALT with second battery is not going to hurt anything (not counting gas milage, HP) but the system above does not equal the need. I just have a gut feel something else is going on. Find out what that is AND have the upgrades then you'll be cooking for sure.
Sorry for the questions. A properly working upgraded ALT with second battery is not going to hurt anything (not counting gas milage, HP) but the system above does not equal the need. I just have a gut feel something else is going on. Find out what that is AND have the upgrades then you'll be cooking for sure.
I've had it facing the other way also and i really didnt notice a huge difference honestly.. but i chose this way cause i use my trunk and im scared that if i have something back there it will damage the sub so thats why im firing it forward
Yes and no.
I went from modding my car to modding our "new to us" house. Selling the TL helped with the down payment on the house, on top of the money we made off our last house selling. was a nice chunk of change so I can't complain. Definitely don't have any free time for cars at the moment. We have two small kids now, work is really busy, and we just purchased a 3400 sq ft house that just needs minor updating. Finished painting, and putting furniture in all the rooms. now I got to get the garage cleaned out and finish our bonus/entertainment room. Been a fun project so far but still got a lot of little things to do to make it OUR house.
Maybe I will get some pics up soon.
Your car has come a long way since you started. Keep up the good work.
That's great news. Thanks for the update. I'm glad it worked because I was never sure if it was the alternator or the way voltage is controlled and I was leaning toward the latter.
So it stays at 14.2v even at idle? How much did you pay for this alt? Did you have to send in a core? I think I saved my original alt so a core shouldn't be a big deal.
I'm going to wait a few months and if you have no problems, the car and alt get along as Kirk says, I'm going to get one myself. Can you tell a difference in your system's performance?
So it stays at 14.2v even at idle? How much did you pay for this alt? Did you have to send in a core? I think I saved my original alt so a core shouldn't be a big deal.
I'm going to wait a few months and if you have no problems, the car and alt get along as Kirk says, I'm going to get one myself. Can you tell a difference in your system's performance?
I didn't see your post before. I just bought a couple 750/1 HD amps so I could get the subs going and the processor is getting sent to Arc tomorrow for its long awaited repair for a factory defect. There's a guy driving from Canada to hear just about every decent system in the western US so I'm getting everything going one last time so he can hear it. Then it all gets sold because I bought an old Buick Indy motor built by Mclaren for my GN and that's going to cost a small fortune to complete.
If you want the IB15 and processor I would rather sell them to an acurazine member than some random stranger so I'll hook you up. Plus, I've always wanted to see the IB15 compared to the Pyles.
If you want the IB15 and processor I would rather sell them to an acurazine member than some random stranger so I'll hook you up. Plus, I've always wanted to see the IB15 compared to the Pyles.
That's great news. Thanks for the update. I'm glad it worked because I was never sure if it was the alternator or the way voltage is controlled and I was leaning toward the latter.
So it stays at 14.2v even at idle? How much did you pay for this alt? Did you have to send in a core? I think I saved my original alt so a core shouldn't be a big deal.
I'm going to wait a few months and if you have no problems, the car and alt get along as Kirk says, I'm going to get one myself. Can you tell a difference in your system's performance?
So it stays at 14.2v even at idle? How much did you pay for this alt? Did you have to send in a core? I think I saved my original alt so a core shouldn't be a big deal.
I'm going to wait a few months and if you have no problems, the car and alt get along as Kirk says, I'm going to get one myself. Can you tell a difference in your system's performance?
there isn't a core so i have my factory one as a backup.. my buddy has this same alt in his car and has had it for almost 2 years without an issue yet and im extremely happy with it so far..
u also need to buy a smaller belt due to a smaller pully.. factory belt is 84 inches and i bought a 83 inch belt
Ah, that makes sense. So they spin the aftermarket one a little faster to get the idle votage higher and to make it to full output sooner. That's good to know. I appreciate the information, I'll be ordering one soon. So is stinger the brand?
give me a call when u have some free time ill get u there contact info also 316-992-7486 they are based out of cali
Thanks for the update. I am truely surprised my OEM is still kicking after what its been thru. Keep us up to date on how this goes.
Is the battery charging wire right above the precat?
How did you get around the Honda ELD system? I thought that an upgraded alt wouldn't do much good because the car's ELD controlled the alt output based on the voltage draw at the main fusebox? Maybe I misunderstood. I would have voltage drop in my TL unless I kicked on the HVAC system, then it would jump back to 13.7 volts and hold.
How did you get around the Honda ELD system? I thought that an upgraded alt wouldn't do much good because the car's ELD controlled the alt output based on the voltage draw at the main fusebox? Maybe I misunderstood. I would have voltage drop in my TL unless I kicked on the HVAC system, then it would jump back to 13.7 volts and hold.
I installed a double din in my 07 TL-S and im trying to get my factory nav to work.. it boots up but cant get passed that.. I saw another thread that shows u have to install a resistor in line between 2wires on the blue plug but that was a 04-06 model.. I looked at my harrness and the wires he tells u to install the resistor in between on my harness doesn't match those he stated. I take it cause its a newer model..
Can someone tell me how to make my nav work and what I need to do to fix it.. I want to keep my double din
Can someone tell me how to make my nav work and what I need to do to fix it.. I want to keep my double din
have you figured this out yet ?
I installed a double din in my 07 TL-S and im trying to get my factory nav to work.. it boots up but cant get passed that.. I saw another thread that shows u have to install a resistor in line between 2wires on the blue plug but that was a 04-06 model.. I looked at my harrness and the wires he tells u to install the resistor in between on my harness doesn't match those he stated. I take it cause its a newer model..
Can someone tell me how to make my nav work and what I need to do to fix it.. I want to keep my double din
Can someone tell me how to make my nav work and what I need to do to fix it.. I want to keep my double din
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