So my old stereo in my previous car is like 10 yrs old so I have been out of the game for a while. But can't stand the factory one in the TL!!

Need help determining whats good with out blowing up the budget. I am looking for good crisp highs and mids. Good base punch, but not so much to rock the neighbors! Retain factory head unit as well.

I don't need to go super cheap, but don't want the $2000+ price of a local shop!

Rough plans:
-5 channel amp. Apline PDX-V9 100wx4 & 500x1 ~$500 any better amps for the buck?!
Power Acoustic amps any good. Like the GT5-2500 Only $150??

-Hi Low box/sound processor....no idea what to get here
-front door & dash componets..what size & brand
-rear deck co axial speaker....what size here
-center channel disconnect it?
-rear deck sub...can i retain for some mid bass or just disconnect?
-sub like a JL 10 or 12 w6 in a sealed box. will the amp above push it fine?

where do I get the signal for the amp? Is there an easy location to use.

 

Looking at
Polk Audio DB 6501 6.5" components for front @ $140
Polk Audio DB 651 6.5" co-ax for the rear deck @ $70 to match

 

You can see what I did for $1k. Search for "mild grade fever"

 

I'll check it out. Do you have good details on the install

 

Here is what I am leaning towards:

Amp: Alpine PDX -v9 100w x 4 & 500w x 1
Sub & Box: Wicked CAS fiberglass box behind rear wheel well & 12" JL w6
Fronts: Apline Type R series 6.5" Componets SPR-60-c
Rears: Alpine Type R 6.5" Coaxial SPR-60
In Line Converter: NVX XPLOC4 & XPLOC2/ 4 ch and 2 ch
Wiring: NVX 4 guage wire kit & extra set of RCA's

Probably add some sound deadening....

Everything sounds good or am i missing something or swap something?

PRE PLAN Questions:
Where do I hook up the in line converters?
How are you guys splicing the factory wire for the inline converter?
Do I remove the factory amps?
Can i keep the center or woofer in rear deck?
Is there a hole to route the 4 guage wire thru firewall already or do i need to drill?
Tips for running new wire to speakers in doors?
how do i access rear speakers?


Thanks,

 

I would not waste any money on the rear speakers, certainly not coaxials. Thats just not going to work without heavy processing. Keep rears and center on stock amp. Send as much as you can afford for front components. I think that amp will work without a line driver, bu could be beneficial.

 

Really you think afermarket coax w/100w will sound the same as the stock rear on stock amp? I know it's just more fill, but would have to be much crisper highs and bettervocals etc...

Bridging the fronts to get 200w to the componets vs 100w also really gonna matter much on these speaker?

No idea as to if i need or what a line driver really does here.
I know the amp has high pass and low pass crossovers, etc....
This line converter crap is new to me. Always used aftermarket radios in past

 

Dont even use my rears. As much power as you can get to front components. The line driver may help the amp with the low viltages from the HU