I am ordering my parts after reading the very good DIYs and the service manual.

Why no seals? If people replace a good water pump just-in-case, then why not at least the main seal? Just curious and wondering if I should do it.

 

That is a good question!

 

Main seal for what? The w/p comes with a new "seal"

 

The front main oil seal for the crank. ...or even the oil seals for the cams.

 

Nobody knows?

I will just assume that this is not mentioned in the 105K service from Acura so nobody does it. Acura must recommend the water pump because people have heard of it and they can drive more revenue - if the philosophy was to change out any wear parts just-in-case, then the seals would be on there I guess.

I think that I will change all three when I do mine unless there is a reason not to. The seal look cheap enough.

 

Agree. The risk is damaging the shafts when removing the seals. I have heard of a strategy to drill the rubber portion of the seal with a few tiny holes and then pull the seal out with a spoke.

 

The seals are a lot more involved then just pulling them off and putting in new ones where as the water pump is pron to fail and is ~5 bolts to replace. I would stick to whats suppose to be replaced!

 

Are they any more complicated that a normal front main seal on a normal car where a seal removal tool will not work?

If we stick to what is supposed to be replaced, then I wouldn't have new 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, would be using Z1 ATF still, and a litany of other things.

I am trying to figure out why I should, or should not, do this since seals are prone to leak eventually, just like water pumps. I plan on 350K out of this car, so at 160-170K, I don't want to take it all apart to put a seal on. However, if I can do this at 210K with the third timing belt, then that is OK too.

 

we always replace the seals at our dealer, no reason not too. they are not hard to do with the proper tools (seal remover and driver)

 

From what i understand there is nothing more then using that tool, but you will also have to take your cam gears off as well. I would say if you know what your doing go for it, and let all of us know how easy or hard it is then you may be able to help alot of us out!

 

Can someone help me with the PN for the crankshaft seal?

 

This is exactly what I was looking for.

I am going to do it since there appears to be no indication that the seals are special and nearly guaranteed to last until a 210K timing belt change.

Assuming that this engine is like many others, to get the cam gears off is nearly identical to the crank gear - you loosen the bolt(s) while you have the old belt on and the lock tool keeping the assembly from spinning. ...except the belt will flex some. I have used an impact gun before with no issues - not sure if it fits in the space for the TL.

Confirm this, the front main seal looks like 91214-RCA-A01 and the cam oil seals appear to be 91213-RCA-A01... I am switching back and forth between 2 sites (diagrams and part numbers) so I could be VERY wrong.

 

The cam seal PN looks good to me. The part diagram is clear on Item 13.

 

Cam and crank seals are a very good idea. I have mine sitting right next to my timing belt waiting until I have time to do the job.