Why do people use 5w30 oil instead of 5w20?
05-01-2010, 01:00 PM
#81
Team Owner
Amsoil, Amshmoil, Red Line, Shmedline. No one should even think of allowing their car to go 25,000 miles between oil changes. That's just begging for trouble!
Speaking of Shmedline, $10 a quart for motor oil is just plain crazy!
Like I said previously, just use a name brand synthetic, go by the MID indicator for change intervals, and you'll be fine.
.
.
However, $10 a quart does get you one of the only ester base oils around with more ZDDP and moly than you can get anywhere else. Redline has so much that some people supplement their normal oil with a quart of Redline for it's additives. There is a big difference after doing teardowns when the car is run on an ester oil. The carbon buildup in the ringpacks is not there. This affects power and mpg. I have never seen this before running Redline. I just assumed it was something we had to deal with. The engine is usually in overall better shape and cleaner than even a good PAO. Overall wear is substantially lower.
There are the many other benefits such as being able to track it over and over and not having to change it out and it's ability to hold up under extreme heat and load.
05-01-2010, 03:06 PM
#82
I partially agree with you. It doesn't matter how good the oil is, you should never go with these super long intervals. Even if the oil has a ton of life left in it, you still have the contaminate load being circulated around.
However, $10 a quart does get you one of the only ester base oils around with more ZDDP and moly than you can get anywhere else. Redline has so much that some people supplement their normal oil with a quart of Redline for it's additives. There is a big difference after doing teardowns when the car is run on an ester oil. The carbon buildup in the ringpacks is not there. This affects power and mpg. I have never seen this before running Redline. I just assumed it was something we had to deal with. The engine is usually in overall better shape and cleaner than even a good PAO. Overall wear is substantially lower.
There are the many other benefits such as being able to track it over and over and not having to change it out and it's ability to hold up under extreme heat and load.
However, $10 a quart does get you one of the only ester base oils around with more ZDDP and moly than you can get anywhere else. Redline has so much that some people supplement their normal oil with a quart of Redline for it's additives. There is a big difference after doing teardowns when the car is run on an ester oil. The carbon buildup in the ringpacks is not there. This affects power and mpg. I have never seen this before running Redline. I just assumed it was something we had to deal with. The engine is usually in overall better shape and cleaner than even a good PAO. Overall wear is substantially lower.
There are the many other benefits such as being able to track it over and over and not having to change it out and it's ability to hold up under extreme heat and load.
Yeah it's $10 a quart, but most people only change their oil 2-3 times a year if they are following the MID. The increased cost really isn't that much on an annual basis.
The following users liked this post:
94Auto (07-25-2021)
05-03-2010, 11:04 AM
#83
3G TL lookin' good
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Spa City, Arkansas
Age: 47
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im running Royal Purple 5W-20....get 10000 between oil changes and it still looks as if it could go more....plus a slight MPG increase and maybe...just maybe a lil extra power, but I just like not having to change oil so often
05-03-2010, 11:49 AM
#84
Advanced
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Stl
Age: 48
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whats up yall wanted to give a big thanks to IHC for his redline 5w20 recommendation for my TL. She's so quiet now and smooth it's almost unbelievable, good looking out.
05-03-2010, 03:00 PM
#85
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2008
Age: 38
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will need to do an oil change once I get my car back from the body shop. I have been using Mobil 1 5w 20. Based on some of the comments about redline 5w 20 quieting the engine, I think I am going to look for online deals and give it a shot. If I dont go with redline I will probably try the mobil 1 10W 30 bc summer is here and it is hot south florida. So hopefully either the redline or heavier weight will quiet the engine while not compromising anything. Thanks for advice guys
04-16-2011, 10:57 PM
#86
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Port Moody BC "Wet Coast"
Age: 57
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's what Amsoil says about oil change intervals:
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
That's the key. I have yet to try an Amsoil filter but they are pretty clear in stating that you should follow OEM intervals if you're using a different filter.
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
That's the key. I have yet to try an Amsoil filter but they are pretty clear in stating that you should follow OEM intervals if you're using a different filter.
Esso here in Canada offers a very good synthetic at 0W30. At BITOG it has been verified that the oil is easily capable going 10+K miles before a change and I personally know a cab driver in Saskatchewan Canada that ran it 15K miles and had it sent for analysis following and it was still within range
I have some spare Pennzoil 5w30 4.73 litre (HTO-06 Turbo compliant) jugs sitting in garage following sale of the RDX I owned and now after reading rather than selling I will use this stuff in my TL Type S and make the move from the dino oil it is on to synthetic and I am at roughly 40,000 miles
after skimming through this thread I gotta laff at some who really believe Amsoil is the shat, you are truly wasting cash, it is good oil but there is better
I do not think there is any issue using a 5w20 or 5w30 weight oil year round in TL especially if you are using synthetic vs dino
04-16-2011, 11:33 PM
#87
Team Owner
dragging up an old thread as I research oil viscosity for my new to me 08 Type S TL
Esso here in Canada offers a very good synthetic at 0W30. At BITOG it has been verified that the oil is easily capable going 10+K miles before a change and I personally know a cab driver in Saskatchewan Canada that ran it 15K miles and had it sent for analysis following and it was still within range
I have some spare Pennzoil 5w30 4.73 litre (HTO-06 Turbo compliant) jugs sitting in garage following sale of the RDX I owned and now after reading rather than selling I will use this stuff in my TL Type S and make the move from the dino oil it is on to synthetic and I am at roughly 40,000 miles
after skimming through this thread I gotta laff at some who really believe Amsoil is the shat, you are truly wasting cash, it is good oil but there is better
I do not think there is any issue using a 5w20 or 5w30 weight oil year round in TL especially if you are using synthetic vs dino
Esso here in Canada offers a very good synthetic at 0W30. At BITOG it has been verified that the oil is easily capable going 10+K miles before a change and I personally know a cab driver in Saskatchewan Canada that ran it 15K miles and had it sent for analysis following and it was still within range
I have some spare Pennzoil 5w30 4.73 litre (HTO-06 Turbo compliant) jugs sitting in garage following sale of the RDX I owned and now after reading rather than selling I will use this stuff in my TL Type S and make the move from the dino oil it is on to synthetic and I am at roughly 40,000 miles
after skimming through this thread I gotta laff at some who really believe Amsoil is the shat, you are truly wasting cash, it is good oil but there is better
I do not think there is any issue using a 5w20 or 5w30 weight oil year round in TL especially if you are using synthetic vs dino
Which Amsoil would you be talking about? The dino? The synthetic? The race oil? The straight weights? Don't lump all of Amsoil's oils in to one category. I can't stand their marketing and "tech" support but at least they're truthful in their labeling of their oils. The dino is labeled as such. If they took a lesson from Mobil and most others they would label their grp III dino oils as a synthetic so give credit where it's due. You can't say everyone using it is wasting their money when you have no idea what conditions or which versions of Amsoil they're using.
What oil would you consider better than or equal to Amsoil at the same price point? I'm not saying there's nothing out there, I have a few in mind but I would love to see what you think.
A $20 oil analysis absolutely will not tell you how much wear is taking place. It's good for several other things but the wear metals are 100% useless.
04-16-2011, 11:38 PM
#88
(no offense to amsoil at all havnt tried thier product)
04-17-2011, 12:08 AM
#89
Team Owner
04-17-2011, 01:27 AM
#90
Your almost there! If you want to settle for 2nd best. Your OK!
>
But AMSOIL is still the top banana! Although Mobil 1 Extended Performance is my 2nd choice. But I would NEVER use 5 W 30. Ask Acura they will tell you. Our car is MADE for 5 W 20. The holes in the engine are just the right size for that viscosity.
>
OK, I'm done now.....
>
But AMSOIL is still the top banana! Although Mobil 1 Extended Performance is my 2nd choice. But I would NEVER use 5 W 30. Ask Acura they will tell you. Our car is MADE for 5 W 20. The holes in the engine are just the right size for that viscosity.
>
OK, I'm done now.....
btw oil used is most definately based upon climate, if you live somewhere where the temps are constantly 90F using a slightly thicker oil would be beneficial.......
05-30-2011, 08:52 AM
#91
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Age: 78
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I never heard of 0W until I was searching for 5W-30 at Walmart and saw it and wondered what vehicle uses that? I actually bought 5W-20 by mistake and was going to return it for 5W-30; but I am happy I found this site since I didn't know the benefits of running the lighter oil for gas mileage.
I know many people are running synthetic now but my cousin who runs his own garage cautioned my against it stating it eats the rubber seals. Perhaps that would be true for older vehicles like my 2000 Accord but I'm willing to accept rubber quality has improved enough in the newer models to withstand breakdown from the synthetics.
Thanks for being here! You saved me some time and money and help keep my blood pressure within normal limits not having to worry about engine breakdown with 5W-20 use even though my manu. recommends 5W-30 for my vehicle. I'll be appreciating the increased gas mileage, too!
I know many people are running synthetic now but my cousin who runs his own garage cautioned my against it stating it eats the rubber seals. Perhaps that would be true for older vehicles like my 2000 Accord but I'm willing to accept rubber quality has improved enough in the newer models to withstand breakdown from the synthetics.
Thanks for being here! You saved me some time and money and help keep my blood pressure within normal limits not having to worry about engine breakdown with 5W-20 use even though my manu. recommends 5W-30 for my vehicle. I'll be appreciating the increased gas mileage, too!
05-30-2011, 09:34 AM
#92
Race Director
. The seal issue with synthetics hasn't existed for years thanks to improved additives in synthetic oils.
05-30-2011, 12:32 PM
#93
What is the best oil bang for buck with a car with 140,000 miles, and for the climate I'm living in? Should I run 10w-30 during the summer and 5w-20 during the winter? What kind of filter do you recommend? Does it really make that much of a difference in oil types/brands if you're only running it for 3,000-4,000 miles? Is Redline or Amsoil really that much better than Mobil 1 extended performance? Will I be able to tell a difference if I switch to synthetic?
05-30-2011, 12:51 PM
#94
Race Director
Truly, for the avg driver, any oil made today is fine, syn or dino. Same goes for filters, but that's a whole other heated debate. I run Purolator PureOne filters. You can get them for $5 on amazon and there's a $3 rebate available.
In Hotlanta, I'd probably run 5-30. Take a look at M1 0-40 also. It's got a decent HTHS of 3.7 which will give extra protection at high temps. Unless you're just anal or tracking your car, Amsoil and Redline are overkill, IMHO.
In Hotlanta, I'd probably run 5-30. Take a look at M1 0-40 also. It's got a decent HTHS of 3.7 which will give extra protection at high temps. Unless you're just anal or tracking your car, Amsoil and Redline are overkill, IMHO.
05-30-2011, 12:57 PM
#95
Truly, for the avg driver, any oil made today is fine, syn or dino. Same goes for filters, but that's a whole other heated debate. I run Purolator PureOne filters. You can get them for $5 on amazon and there's a $3 rebate available.
In Hotlanta, I'd probably run 5-30. Take a look at M1 0-40 also. It's got a decent HTHS of 3.7 which will give extra protection at high temps. Unless you're just anal or tracking your car, Amsoil and Redline are overkill, IMHO.
In Hotlanta, I'd probably run 5-30. Take a look at M1 0-40 also. It's got a decent HTHS of 3.7 which will give extra protection at high temps. Unless you're just anal or tracking your car, Amsoil and Redline are overkill, IMHO.
I'm assuming I should pick something and stick with it, right? Like if I run M1 0-40 during the summer, I might use the same brand during the winter, but use a different weight?
also, how do you feel about high mileage synthetics like this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-30.aspx
05-30-2011, 01:20 PM
#96
2007 TL Type-S NBP
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rexburg, Idaho
Age: 49
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Cars are not people, they don't "get used to" different beverages. It's perfectly fine to switch brands and even weights regardless of how long you've been running something else. Some oils hold up to abuse better than others but for the most part oil is like armor, either it's strong enough to protect you or it's not. As long as it's strong enough to safely endure your driving conditions (rpm, climate, etc), one quality synthetic oil will be pretty much as good as the next.
05-30-2011, 01:40 PM
#97
Team Owner
this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-40.aspx
I'm assuming I should pick something and stick with it, right? Like if I run M1 0-40 during the summer, I might use the same brand during the winter, but use a different weight?
also, how do you feel about high mileage synthetics like this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-30.aspx
I'm assuming I should pick something and stick with it, right? Like if I run M1 0-40 during the summer, I might use the same brand during the winter, but use a different weight?
also, how do you feel about high mileage synthetics like this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-30.aspx
In your climate, run a 5w-30 year round and don't worry about it. No need to change viscosities from winter to summer.
Any SL or SM rated oil will work fine. Stay away from AFE oils as they trade wear for fuel economy.
Mobil's extended performance oils are one of their only true synthetic oils despite the "fully synthetic" labeling on most of them. Very good oil for the price.
To be honest, you could get away with anything from a 0w-20 to a 15w-40 in your climate. The 5w-30 is a great compromise. If you're going with a cheap oil, 10w-30 might be a better idea since it likely uses less VIIs. In the more expensive oils, the 5w-30 has all of the advantages of the 10w-30 plus slightly better cold flow.
I run Redline 5w-30. It has more anti wear additives like ZDDP and moly than just about anything out there. It's an ester so it's a natural cleaner without having to use lots of detergents. Less detergents leave more room for lubrication. It won't bake off in the ring land area and cause deposits which are what cause loss of performance and mpg. It has a super high HTHS for it's viscosity which is directly related to engine wear. You get the HTHS value and protection of a good 40wt while getting the pumpability and flow of a 30wt. The difference between an ester oil and a "regular" PAO synthetic oil is greater than the difference between a dino and PAO synthetic. It is well worth the money if you plan on keeping the car for a very long time. You will never have to use any sort of cleaners in the crank case. You will never have to worry about engine wear. It will not break down under sustained high temperatures and loads. The ring land area will be MUCH cleaner than with any normal synthetic. Redline and I believe most ester oils need little to no VIIs to get the VI needed. Redline 5w-30 and most of their oils are actually straight 30wts that qualify for the 5w-30 designation due to naturally good cold flow characteristics. You're getting all of the advantages of a straight weight with the flow of a multi-weight.
My opinion is that if you're going to step into the synthetic arena, go big or go home. The price difference is not that great. If you don't go synthetic, no worries, there isn't a bad modern oil made today.
05-30-2011, 01:49 PM
#98
You're putting too much thought into it.
In your climate, run a 5w-30 year round and don't worry about it. No need to change viscosities from winter to summer.
Any SL or SM rated oil will work fine. Stay away from AFE oils as they trade wear for fuel economy.
Mobil's extended performance oils are one of their only true synthetic oils despite the "fully synthetic" labeling on most of them. Very good oil for the price.
To be honest, you could get away with anything from a 0w-20 to a 15w-40 in your climate. The 5w-30 is a great compromise. If you're going with a cheap oil, 10w-30 might be a better idea since it likely uses less VIIs. In the more expensive oils, the 5w-30 has all of the advantages of the 10w-30 plus slightly better cold flow.
I run Redline 5w-30. It has more anti wear additives like ZDDP and moly than just about anything out there. It's an ester so it's a natural cleaner without having to use lots of detergents. Less detergents leave more room for lubrication. It won't bake off in the ring land area and cause deposits which are what cause loss of performance and mpg. It has a super high HTHS for it's viscosity which is directly related to engine wear. You get the HTHS value and protection of a good 40wt while getting the pumpability and flow of a 30wt. The difference between an ester oil and a "regular" PAO synthetic oil is greater than the difference between a dino and PAO synthetic. It is well worth the money if you plan on keeping the car for a very long time. You will never have to use any sort of cleaners in the crank case. You will never have to worry about engine wear. It will not break down under sustained high temperatures and loads. The ring land area will be MUCH cleaner than with any normal synthetic. Redline and I believe most ester oils need little to no VIIs to get the VI needed. Redline 5w-30 and most of their oils are actually straight 30wts that qualify for the 5w-30 designation due to naturally good cold flow characteristics. You're getting all of the advantages of a straight weight with the flow of a multi-weight.
My opinion is that if you're going to step into the synthetic arena, go big or go home. The price difference is not that great. If you don't go synthetic, no worries, there isn't a bad modern oil made today.
In your climate, run a 5w-30 year round and don't worry about it. No need to change viscosities from winter to summer.
Any SL or SM rated oil will work fine. Stay away from AFE oils as they trade wear for fuel economy.
Mobil's extended performance oils are one of their only true synthetic oils despite the "fully synthetic" labeling on most of them. Very good oil for the price.
To be honest, you could get away with anything from a 0w-20 to a 15w-40 in your climate. The 5w-30 is a great compromise. If you're going with a cheap oil, 10w-30 might be a better idea since it likely uses less VIIs. In the more expensive oils, the 5w-30 has all of the advantages of the 10w-30 plus slightly better cold flow.
I run Redline 5w-30. It has more anti wear additives like ZDDP and moly than just about anything out there. It's an ester so it's a natural cleaner without having to use lots of detergents. Less detergents leave more room for lubrication. It won't bake off in the ring land area and cause deposits which are what cause loss of performance and mpg. It has a super high HTHS for it's viscosity which is directly related to engine wear. You get the HTHS value and protection of a good 40wt while getting the pumpability and flow of a 30wt. The difference between an ester oil and a "regular" PAO synthetic oil is greater than the difference between a dino and PAO synthetic. It is well worth the money if you plan on keeping the car for a very long time. You will never have to use any sort of cleaners in the crank case. You will never have to worry about engine wear. It will not break down under sustained high temperatures and loads. The ring land area will be MUCH cleaner than with any normal synthetic. Redline and I believe most ester oils need little to no VIIs to get the VI needed. Redline 5w-30 and most of their oils are actually straight 30wts that qualify for the 5w-30 designation due to naturally good cold flow characteristics. You're getting all of the advantages of a straight weight with the flow of a multi-weight.
My opinion is that if you're going to step into the synthetic arena, go big or go home. The price difference is not that great. If you don't go synthetic, no worries, there isn't a bad modern oil made today.
My only fear with using redline is that I will be wasting some of it if I change my oil as often as my car tells me to change it, right? Or can I use this redline with (insert your favorite filter) and change every what, 5-7,000 instead? Then I will have to reset my MID and ignore the oil life announcements, right?
05-30-2011, 02:01 PM
#99
Race Director
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/%2412-%2415-mobil-1-rebates-815313/
I'm running it now (since Jan). Was running M1 5w20 for the first 100K. Decided to try 0w40. Will be running a UOA when I change it (probably in late July). Based on my last UOA (see below), I'm going to run the 0w40 for 10K miles.
I ran a UOA after my last 5w20 oil change. It's posted here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=84
I'm assuming I should pick something and stick with it, right? Like if I run M1 0-40 during the summer, I might use the same brand during the winter, but use a different weight?
also, how do you feel about high mileage synthetics like this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-30.aspx
also, how do you feel about high mileage synthetics like this one? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-30.aspx
M1 has served me well, so I'm not inclined to change, especially since my oil change intervals are only 2x per year. I can always find it on sale sometime during the 6 month interval
I don't know much about the high mileage M1 oils. Sorry.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 05-30-2011 at 02:08 PM.
05-30-2011, 02:07 PM
#100
Yeah, that's it. FYI, there's a $12 rebate offer good through tomorrow on M1 oils:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815313
I'm running it now (since Jan). Was running M1 5w20 for the first 100K. Decided to try 0w40. Will be running a UOA when I change it (probably in late July). Based on my last UOA (see below), I'm going to run the 0w40 for 10K miles.
I ran a UOA after my last 5w20 oil change. It's posted here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=84
Honestly, in Atlanta, you could really buy just about whatever is on sale and use that (assuming you follow the MID interval). Switching won't hurt at all.
M1 has served me well, so I'm not inclined to change, especially since my oil change intervals are only 2x per year. I can always find it on sale sometime during the 6 month interval
I don't know much about the high mileage M1 oils. Sorry.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815313
I'm running it now (since Jan). Was running M1 5w20 for the first 100K. Decided to try 0w40. Will be running a UOA when I change it (probably in late July). Based on my last UOA (see below), I'm going to run the 0w40 for 10K miles.
I ran a UOA after my last 5w20 oil change. It's posted here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=84
Honestly, in Atlanta, you could really buy just about whatever is on sale and use that (assuming you follow the MID interval). Switching won't hurt at all.
M1 has served me well, so I'm not inclined to change, especially since my oil change intervals are only 2x per year. I can always find it on sale sometime during the 6 month interval
I don't know much about the high mileage M1 oils. Sorry.
05-30-2011, 02:09 PM
#101
Race Director
Yep.
05-30-2011, 02:15 PM
#102
so about every 8,000 miles? hmm. Do you just ignore the MID? (I dont even know that that stands for) maintenance indicator display?
ok so if I do the same, I should use redline 5w-30 and what kind of fliter? and do this what, every 5-7K? is there any advantage for changing it more or less often in a higher mileage car?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
ok so if I do the same, I should use redline 5w-30 and what kind of fliter? and do this what, every 5-7K? is there any advantage for changing it more or less often in a higher mileage car?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
05-30-2011, 02:20 PM
#103
Team Owner
IHC, thanks for replying first of all, you are a sort of legend on these forums My only fear with using redline is that I will be wasting some of it if I change my oil as often as my car tells me to change it, right? Or can I use this redline with (insert your favorite filter) and change every what, 5-7,000 instead? Then I will have to reset my MID and ignore the oil life announcements, right?
My only fear with using redline is that I will be wasting some of it if I change my oil as often as my car tells me to change it, right? Or can I use this redline with (insert your favorite filter) and change every what, 5-7,000 instead? Then I will have to reset my MID and ignore the oil life announcements, right?The oil iteself will be fine for 15,000 miles or more. It's up to you as to how long you want to push the interval. You're going to have the contaminate load to deal with. A good filter will help somewhat with this. I change mine at 5,000. I know it's way early but it helps me to sleep better at night lol. I would have no issues pushing it to 10,000 miles with 90% freeway usage. In fact, my MID used to call for a change right around 10,000 miles when I drove the car 210 miles round trip every day in the summer time and that's calibrated for dino oil. In the winter and with short trips, 3,000 miles is a good interval .
You'll be fine on any SL or SM oil you put in it. Some are better than others, all will do a good job and the engine will likely outlast the car. If you want the absolute "best", an ester based oil like Redline or Motul can be used.
I was sold on Redline after tearing down one high mileage engine and a bunch of race engines using it. There IS a difference in wear and cleanliness vs other synthetics without a doubt, a big difference. But if a regular dino will get you to 200,000+ miles and you sell the car before then, it might not be worth it to you to run the good stuff.
05-30-2011, 02:28 PM
#104
I didn't mean to push Redline on you. Just pointing out that there are some valid reasons to run an ester based oil. These advantages most likely won't show up unless you run the car hard a lot or you keep it well into high mileage.
The oil iteself will be fine for 15,000 miles or more. It's up to you as to how long you want to push the interval. You're going to have the contaminate load to deal with. A good filter will help somewhat with this. I change mine at 5,000. I know it's way early but it helps me to sleep better at night lol. I would have no issues pushing it to 10,000 miles with 90% freeway usage. In fact, my MID used to call for a change right around 10,000 miles when I drove the car 210 miles round trip every day in the summer time and that's calibrated for dino oil. In the winter and with short trips, 3,000 miles is a good interval .
You'll be fine on any SL or SM oil you put in it. Some are better than others, all will do a good job and the engine will likely outlast the car. If you want the absolute "best", an ester based oil like Redline or Motul can be used.
I was sold on Redline after tearing down one high mileage engine and a bunch of race engines using it. There IS a difference in wear and cleanliness vs other synthetics without a doubt, a big difference. But if a regular dino will get you to 200,000+ miles and you sell the car before then, it might not be worth it to you to run the good stuff.
The oil iteself will be fine for 15,000 miles or more. It's up to you as to how long you want to push the interval. You're going to have the contaminate load to deal with. A good filter will help somewhat with this. I change mine at 5,000. I know it's way early but it helps me to sleep better at night lol. I would have no issues pushing it to 10,000 miles with 90% freeway usage. In fact, my MID used to call for a change right around 10,000 miles when I drove the car 210 miles round trip every day in the summer time and that's calibrated for dino oil. In the winter and with short trips, 3,000 miles is a good interval .
You'll be fine on any SL or SM oil you put in it. Some are better than others, all will do a good job and the engine will likely outlast the car. If you want the absolute "best", an ester based oil like Redline or Motul can be used.
I was sold on Redline after tearing down one high mileage engine and a bunch of race engines using it. There IS a difference in wear and cleanliness vs other synthetics without a doubt, a big difference. But if a regular dino will get you to 200,000+ miles and you sell the car before then, it might not be worth it to you to run the good stuff.
also, I have responded to your RR ATF thread, because that's my biggest concern area. That will be my next maintenance done. Feel free to check out that thread
05-30-2011, 02:28 PM
#105
Race Director
ok so if I do the same, I should use redline 5w-30 and what kind of fliter? and do this what, every 5-7K? is there any advantage for changing it more or less often in a higher mileage car?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
Just follow the MID and any modern oil and filter available will be fine.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 05-30-2011 at 02:31 PM.
05-30-2011, 02:31 PM
#106
My MID (Multi-info Display) interval has been about 7500 since new. I went a little over the last change (8100) while waiting to do my TB change. I'm going to run this interval for 10K just out of curiosity. I'll probably go back to the MID intervals after this change. I only put about 12-15K/year on my car, so yeah, using the MID intervals = twice a year.
Not saying that at all. I just follow the MID. And I ran M1 in my Supra Turbo for 17 years and it performed fine, so I just stuck with it for the TL. I didn't put a lot a thinking into my oil selection for the TL.
Just follow the MID and any modern oil and filter available will be fine.
Not saying that at all. I just follow the MID. And I ran M1 in my Supra Turbo for 17 years and it performed fine, so I just stuck with it for the TL. I didn't put a lot a thinking into my oil selection for the TL.
Just follow the MID and any modern oil and filter available will be fine.
05-30-2011, 02:36 PM
#107
Team Owner
so about every 8,000 miles? hmm. Do you just ignore the MID? (I dont even know that that stands for) maintenance indicator display?
ok so if I do the same, I should use redline 5w-30 and what kind of fliter? and do this what, every 5-7K? is there any advantage for changing it more or less often in a higher mileage car?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
ok so if I do the same, I should use redline 5w-30 and what kind of fliter? and do this what, every 5-7K? is there any advantage for changing it more or less often in a higher mileage car?
so what you're basically saying is that it's better to use a top of the line oil and filter less often than to use a lesser quality oil more often? or do they equal out?
cheaper oil + more frequent = better oil + less frequent?
One is the contaminate load. This is fuel, water, carbon, and silicone that gets in the oil from normal combustion blowby. Some of it the filter can take care of and some the filter can't. This determines your change interval more than the oil itself does and it doesn't matter if you have the cheapest or most expensive oil, the contaminate load is still there. Look at your transmission. Typical intervals are 30,000 to 100,000 miles. Ever wonder why it's so much longer than the engine? The trans does not generate garbage from combusion.
The good oils can go longer before oxidizing and depleating the additive pack and the TBN going too low. Most true synthetics can go 15,000 miles easily.
A higher mileage engine shouldn't require more frequent changes unless you're getting more blowby. As long as the oil doesn't go black in the first thousand miles or so you're fine. Again, blowby increases the contaminate load mentioned above.
A typical higher mileage oil might have a better additive pack and it's almost always on the higher end of it's viscosity range. "30wt" covers a range and a high mileage 30wt might be on the thick end of the 30wt spectrum. This is usually due to clearances opening up and the thicker oil helps to maintain oil pressure. If you're already using a 30wt, you're running a thicker than stock oil anyway so no need to run the high mileage for this reason. In Mobil's case, their high mileage oils use a better base oil than the non high mileage oils so it's worth it for that reason alone.
I run the good oil for the added protection, less wear, it's cleaning power, it won't leave deposits behind as a normal PAO synthetic will, it has a super low NOACK value meaning there are less vapors to get past the rings and into the PCV system, it's very polar meaning it likes to stick to metal parts, especially good if your car sits for long periods of time.
I still change it at a reasonable interval due to the contaminates though. I run a Royal Purple filter which filters very well yet flows very well too. The PurOne filters also filter very well. The advantage of the RP filter with it's synthetic media is the ability to flow well and filter well, there's no tradeoff there. The pore size also does not change when water is introduced to it. In reality with my combo I should be changing the oil around 10,000 miles but I just can't bring myself to do it.
Again, I think you should be fine with Mobil One high mileage and a Pur One filter or RP filter and change it when the MID tells you to. I'm just very OCD when it comes to this stuff.
One thing I'm pretty firm on is you should be running at least a 5w-30 oil, not a 5w-20 oil in your hot summers.
Last edited by I hate cars; 05-30-2011 at 02:39 PM.
05-30-2011, 02:37 PM
#108
Race Director
ok, now I get it. I was under the impression that the MID was programmed for every 3-4K miles, I didn't realize it actually knows how well the oil is holding up. In this case, I will use the good stuff and hopefully less often, because that seems like a better deal in the long run anyway. thanks for your help kind sir
Last edited by nfnsquared; 05-30-2011 at 02:39 PM.
05-30-2011, 02:42 PM
#109
There are a couple separate things going on.
One is the contaminate load. This is fuel, water, carbon, and silicone that gets in the oil from normal combustion blowby. Some of it the filter can take care of and some the filter can't. This determines your change interval more than the oil itself does and it doesn't matter if you have the cheapest or most expensive oil, the contaminate load is still there. Look at your transmission. Typical intervals are 30,000 to 100,000 miles. Ever wonder why it's so much longer than the engine? The trans does not generate garbage from combusion.
The good oils can go longer before oxidizing and depleating the additive pack and the TBN going too low. Most true synthetics can go 15,000 miles easily.
A higher mileage engine shouldn't require more frequent changes unless you're getting more blowby. As long as the oil doesn't go black in the first thousand miles or so you're fine. Again, blowby increases the contaminate load mentioned above.
A typical higher mileage oil might have a better additive pack and it's almost always on the higher end of it's viscosity range. "30wt" covers a range and a high mileage 30wt might be on the thick end of the 30wt spectrum. This is usually due to clearances opening up and the thicker oil helps to maintain oil pressure. If you're already using a 30wt, you're running a thicker than stock oil anyway so no need to run the high mileage for this reason. In Mobil's case, their high mileage oils use a better base oil than the non high mileage oils so it's worth it for that reason alone.
I run the good oil for the added protection, less wear, it's cleaning power, it won't leave deposits behind as a normal PAO synthetic will, it has a super low NOACK value meaning there are less vapors to get past the rings and into the PCV system, it's very polar meaning it likes to stick to metal parts, especially good if your car sits for long periods of time.
I still change it at a reasonable interval due to the contaminates though. I run a Royal Purple filter which filters very well yet flows very well too. The PurOne filters also filter very well. The advantage of the RP filter with it's synthetic media is the ability to flow well and filter well, there's no tradeoff there. The pore size also does not change when water is introduced to it. In reality with my combo I should be changing the oil around 10,000 miles but I just can't bring myself to do it.
Again, I think you should be fine with Mobil One high mileage and a Pur One filter or RP filter and change it when the MID tells you to. I'm just very OCD when it comes to this stuff.
One thing I'm pretty firm on is you should be running at least a 5w-30 oil, not a 5w-20 oil in your hot summers.
One is the contaminate load. This is fuel, water, carbon, and silicone that gets in the oil from normal combustion blowby. Some of it the filter can take care of and some the filter can't. This determines your change interval more than the oil itself does and it doesn't matter if you have the cheapest or most expensive oil, the contaminate load is still there. Look at your transmission. Typical intervals are 30,000 to 100,000 miles. Ever wonder why it's so much longer than the engine? The trans does not generate garbage from combusion.
The good oils can go longer before oxidizing and depleating the additive pack and the TBN going too low. Most true synthetics can go 15,000 miles easily.
A higher mileage engine shouldn't require more frequent changes unless you're getting more blowby. As long as the oil doesn't go black in the first thousand miles or so you're fine. Again, blowby increases the contaminate load mentioned above.
A typical higher mileage oil might have a better additive pack and it's almost always on the higher end of it's viscosity range. "30wt" covers a range and a high mileage 30wt might be on the thick end of the 30wt spectrum. This is usually due to clearances opening up and the thicker oil helps to maintain oil pressure. If you're already using a 30wt, you're running a thicker than stock oil anyway so no need to run the high mileage for this reason. In Mobil's case, their high mileage oils use a better base oil than the non high mileage oils so it's worth it for that reason alone.
I run the good oil for the added protection, less wear, it's cleaning power, it won't leave deposits behind as a normal PAO synthetic will, it has a super low NOACK value meaning there are less vapors to get past the rings and into the PCV system, it's very polar meaning it likes to stick to metal parts, especially good if your car sits for long periods of time.
I still change it at a reasonable interval due to the contaminates though. I run a Royal Purple filter which filters very well yet flows very well too. The PurOne filters also filter very well. The advantage of the RP filter with it's synthetic media is the ability to flow well and filter well, there's no tradeoff there. The pore size also does not change when water is introduced to it. In reality with my combo I should be changing the oil around 10,000 miles but I just can't bring myself to do it.
Again, I think you should be fine with Mobil One high mileage and a Pur One filter or RP filter and change it when the MID tells you to. I'm just very OCD when it comes to this stuff.
One thing I'm pretty firm on is you should be running at least a 5w-30 oil, not a 5w-20 oil in your hot summers.
LOL OCD is an understatement! But very good thing to be OCD about
Thanks, I will run a good 5w-30 synthetic and a Pur One or RP filter next change.
According to the Owner's Manual and the Service Manual, the MID monitors engine revolutions and "other parameters" to determine when an oil change is due. No where have I found it written what these "other parameters" are. It doesn't know "how well the oil is holding up" but it's a reasonably educated guess based on operating conditions. It assumes dino oil.
05-30-2011, 02:47 PM
#110
Team Owner
It bases intervals on a bunch of things but the biggest factors are ambient temps, number of cold starts, length of trips (average oil temps), and total engine revolutions. That's why mine has taken me out to 10,000 in the summer with 210 miles a day on the freeway and as short as 3,000 miles in the winter when I was driving it 1.5 miles each way to work (never had a chance for the oil to get fully warm).
The following users liked this post:
94Auto (07-25-2021)
05-30-2011, 02:50 PM
#111
Dino is just a non synthetic oil. These days even lowly dino oils are very good. As it was said, the MID calculates oil life, it can't measure it. The calculation is based on dino oil so if you run a synthetic and change it when the MID tells you to, you're ahead of the game.
It bases intervals on a bunch of things but the biggest factors are ambient temps, number of cold starts, length of trips (average oil temps), and total engine revolutions. That's why mine has taken me out to 10,000 in the summer with 210 miles a day on the freeway and as short as 3,000 miles in the winter when I was driving it 1.5 miles each way to work (never had a chance for the oil to get fully warm).
It bases intervals on a bunch of things but the biggest factors are ambient temps, number of cold starts, length of trips (average oil temps), and total engine revolutions. That's why mine has taken me out to 10,000 in the summer with 210 miles a day on the freeway and as short as 3,000 miles in the winter when I was driving it 1.5 miles each way to work (never had a chance for the oil to get fully warm).
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=776213&page=6
10-04-2011, 07:20 PM
#113
Racer
Look here for viscosity ...
In respect to brands ... there is NOTHING wrong with Honda/Acura lubricants and they are easy to access.
IF you are going to venture outside of that, know what you are getting into. Synthetics (made from Group III or Group III/IV) are going to offer better protection, nothing more. The MID should still be used. Be sure that you are using an oil that carries the proper rating for your vehicle ... API SM, API SN, HTO-06, etc.
In respect to brands ... there is NOTHING wrong with Honda/Acura lubricants and they are easy to access.
IF you are going to venture outside of that, know what you are getting into. Synthetics (made from Group III or Group III/IV) are going to offer better protection, nothing more. The MID should still be used. Be sure that you are using an oil that carries the proper rating for your vehicle ... API SM, API SN, HTO-06, etc.
10-05-2011, 09:40 AM
#115
Just picked up my car from a B12 service at a local car shop. I brought them the parts, including a royal purple oil filter, a case of redline 5w-30, and an OEM engine air filter (i plan to do the cabin filter myself this weekend).
I thought to go with the 5w-30 as i drive the car pretty hard. I took it for a quick ride down the highway after picking it up.... feels good.... i cant tell if its the air filter or the engine oil... or both.
anyways.... in a few weeks i'll let you know how things are
I thought to go with the 5w-30 as i drive the car pretty hard. I took it for a quick ride down the highway after picking it up.... feels good.... i cant tell if its the air filter or the engine oil... or both.
anyways.... in a few weeks i'll let you know how things are
10-19-2011, 03:32 PM
#117
Drifting
IHC, just a question. What is your opinion on the newer Castrol Edge synthetic oil? I've been using M1 5W-20 exclusively but recently I couldnt find one at my local stores. I'm at my due oil change interval and bit the bullet and got the Edge. Anything you know about it? I know it shouldn't matter, but a little info from you might help calm my nerves down.
I was just hesitant to not change my oil in time for my personal scheduled oil change.
I was just hesitant to not change my oil in time for my personal scheduled oil change.
10-19-2011, 04:59 PM
#118
And one more questions: How effective is it to simply add ZDDP to an existing oil with 1/2 or 1/3 bottle of Redline Break-In Additive?
I'm wondering because I've got an older B18C Type R with friction pad rocker arms and a 9k rpm redline that currently has Mobil1 0w30 in it. I recently (yesterday) noticed that oil has very little ZDDP making it pretty bad for older motors without roller rockers...
I'm wondering because I've got an older B18C Type R with friction pad rocker arms and a 9k rpm redline that currently has Mobil1 0w30 in it. I recently (yesterday) noticed that oil has very little ZDDP making it pretty bad for older motors without roller rockers...
10-19-2011, 10:03 PM
#120
Team Owner
Look here for viscosity ...
In respect to brands ... there is NOTHING wrong with Honda/Acura lubricants and they are easy to access.
IF you are going to venture outside of that, know what you are getting into. Synthetics (made from Group III or Group III/IV) are going to offer better protection, nothing more. The MID should still be used. Be sure that you are using an oil that carries the proper rating for your vehicle ... API SM, API SN, HTO-06, etc.
In respect to brands ... there is NOTHING wrong with Honda/Acura lubricants and they are easy to access.
IF you are going to venture outside of that, know what you are getting into. Synthetics (made from Group III or Group III/IV) are going to offer better protection, nothing more. The MID should still be used. Be sure that you are using an oil that carries the proper rating for your vehicle ... API SM, API SN, HTO-06, etc.
The add pack is usually better in a good synthetic. That's an assumption but usually true since they tout extended drain intervals. I'm not an extended OCI person by any means but going by your logic in the other threads, if the add pack is still holding up there's no reason you can't go longer...