If you are going to try to blame the tranny failure on the type f fluid what about all the other transmissions that have failed on the z1. Or what about how mostly everyone that had tranny problems had the shakes while using the z1.

 

Why would you want softer shifts when it's your only car? Read up on all of these threads, you're asking questions that have been answered literally a hundred times. Quicker, sometimes harder shifts=less wear. Only a couple people out of over a hundred have ever had "issues" with the type F and not a single one can pin it on the fluid, it's pure speculation. The vast majority of people have better shift quality and comfort with straight type F. There are one, maybe two people that said they have harsher shifts.

It's your car, do what you want. If you want the least amount of wear, do all type F. If you want more wear, do a mix, do straight Z1 or D4, doesn't matter. The farther you get from straight type F the more wear you're going to have.

 

I've got over 30,000 miles with the Redline Racing fluid. Still runs like a champ and runs way better than before.

 

IHC....My previous statement was misinformed....after reading all 18 pages of the previous thread, the question I was getting at wasnt about Type-F vs. D4, it was actually related to the mix of straight Racing vs. Lighweight. Since I am in Chicago, I assume (as you reccomended in the other thread) 2qts Racing and 1qt. Lightweight (no FM) for every 1x3 that I do....so assuming I am about to do a 3x3.....6qts Racing 3qts lightweight?

 

Did you use a mixture with lightweight or just go with the regular racing fluid?

 

I still hate how this poll is so vague. It does not differentiate between those with existing trans issues and those supposedly caused by the type f fluid. Basically if you had a trans problem even a pre-existing problem it's going to look like it was caused by the fluid according to the poll.

Now for the interesting news..... Look at the people complaining of the flares and harsh shifts. How many '04-'06s do you see? Pretty much zero. Now look at the '07-'08s. That's where the complaints are (the few that are out there). Now it was discovered most of you '07-'08 guys were putting the wrong pressure switch in the wrong hole and blaming the fluid when the problems occurred. Someone posted up incorrect info on the placement of the switches, people used the wrong switch and the fluid got the blame. This is why this stuff is so frustrating to me. I know beyond a doubt that the fluid can't cause the reported issues but I constantly have to defend it from things like improper switch replacement.

 

Sorry guys, I might sound like an ass but I have to put my foot down and not answer that question anymore. Myself along with a couple others have answered it over 100 times literally, you can count the posts. The mixture question has been run into the ground. Search the "racing atf" thread.

 

god damnit I do not want to read another 20 page thread full of BS. Someone needs to condence this shit and put it in the garage....

 

And I don't want to write the same shit several times a day every day because you don't feel like reading. That's how that thread got so long in the first place. The exact same question and answer over and over and over again. If the mods went through that thread and deleted every repeat identical question it would be half as long. I'm not trying to be a jerk or controlling or whatever. I'm just thoroughly tired of that question and it has to stop at some point. I already keep my inbox full all the time because I'm tired of the PMs on top of the threads with that particular question.

If this helps, search the last page or two of the racing atf thread where I quoted 30-40 posts with this question.

 

I hate you....and cars....and reading. But since you require I educate myself (damn you) I have started reading...page 5...woohooo

 

lucnex, 6 qts racing/3 qts lightweight for a 3x3.

 

Thank you Shark, though that dumb thread is sort of interesting so i will continue to read....may take a few days though in between the work I need to do in order to get paid....

Would you suggest introducing the ATF slowly? Seems to be the best idea since I am at 45K and it has never been flushed (to my knowledge)....I imagine I wont feel results until the second 1x3

When i do the first 1x3 I will swap out the 3/4 sensors as well. Was going to do the ATF Filter but with the TBS and my CAI seems like a lot of work to get to and im pretty lazy....

 

This seems to be an interesting and fair poll to me - if for no other reason, at least it is an informal survey to learn of first-hand experiences of others. As I read, the OP (and others) are not implying that the Type 'F' fluid is killing transmissions or even harmful to it, but rather to determine if its excellent qualities may merely be extending the life of the flawed transmission and to what degree.

The issue of hard vs. smooth shifts after switching to Type 'F' is secondary to the polls objective. However, it is a frank side effect that is being reported by some. No problem with this either.

 

i did a 3x3 at 39k, noticed nothing but pure AWESOMENESS afterwards. i'll do the switches at the next oil/atf change as well.

just did another 1x3 at 46k a few days ago, a few more 1x3's at each oil change and i'll have close to 100% redline in my veins.

 

I'm in Chicago and I've got a ratio of 2qts Racing to 1qt Lightweight Racing.

 

its possible some of you over/under filled the tranny fluid. its not like motor oil

 

Originally Posted by usmarinedelta
Or now that I think about it, it happens quickly. Scenario two, i'm giving it gas, rpm's rising, when it's about to shift the rpms keep rising in the same gear a bit more then a swift shift into the next gear, then I feel the lunge. ehh...hard to explain.
I have an 05 100k miles, did an 3x3 with redline racing and pressure switches about 3k miles ago. Anyways, I have the same issue, if I floor it the car shifts beautifully, but sometimes when driving slower my shift from 2>3 will lunge in the same fashion. I do recall the lunge being worse before the changes. Another thought that I had the other day was that it seemed to be more likely to happen in hotter weather, is that possible? Although most common after a cold start.

 

^^^ Mine are temperature affected too but when it's hotter it shifts better The lunges are quite annoying. I don't know if I can verify if it's the fluid because I just did an axle change and it leaked alot of fluid, so I did another drain and fill but with Amsoil non-type F because the store that was closest to my house was all they had, 3 quarts later it's still happening, but then again a majority of the fluid in my trans is still type F. Would be nice to source out the lunge.

 

Are you saying it shifts better when the engine is hotter or the outside temp? I have only had the car for the spring and summer months thus far so can I expect it to get worse in the winter?

 

For what it's worth: I don't have Type-F, but do have D4 with over 15,000 miles since the 3X3 in my 07 TL-S. I only use the paddle shifters to drive which includes downshifting to slow down/stop. I do not have 1 single issue.

And, I do drive my car hard, not thrash, but drive hard.

 

More issues with people screwing up the switch replacements have been turning up. It causes the flare just like in the video. It's too bad the fluid was instantly blamed or we could've found the real cause sooner.

 

IHC is the man! I was so nervous when I felt my 06 TL slipping from 3rd to 4th. Did the selonoids, they didn't do much themselves, but after I did my 3x3, my slipping went away, and my shifting had no problems until I sold the car. Excellent advice, makes perfect sense, for my new 08 TL with 29K miles I don't like how it shifts so I will do it again, this time with a higher quality Type F just in case.

IHC, at 29K miles do you recommend doing the switches first or is that low enough mileage to just do the 3x3 Type F?

 

I changed to Redline type F 2x3 on my 08 5at at 50K. Before that I changed my Z1 1x3 at 20K and 40K. On the Z1 I had a handful of what I call lunges but mostly smooth shifts. The type F shifts firmer than Z1 and maybe 2 lunges in 15K miles on the type F. Original swithes.
This is my daily driver, 100 mile commute each day. Lots of traffic and wide open throttle when I can and I use my antilocks daily.
I have the 07,08 problem of the trans locking in second gear when I spin the tires in 2nd gear, but shifting to neutral clears that. There is always some Z1 left in the trans, so I will continue to do 1x3 of Redline in the future.
I also have a Honda Odyssey with over 200k on Z1, changed regularly with no problems.
This forum is great!

 

Gotta love how you try to put a disclaimer in a posting, as I have outlined in BOLD people still don't read and just do as they please anyways.


@ IHC - did another D&F and I traced those lines coming off the tranny and they do lead up to the radiator.

 

I just wanted to point out one thing, I never did switch out my switches before I started getting the flare that caused Acura to replace the tranny. But as far as the poll, don't know if it can be changed, as I haven't seen an option from my side to change it.

 

One side of the consensus is that transmissions were in the process of going bad, thus not blaming the fluid... Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has any type of guesstimate as to what percentage of 3G TL transmissions are likely to go bad. It seems a lot of people had problems with much lower mileage, I assume the higher the more likely, but is there a certain point where you can almost expect for the transmission to die if you have not changed the fluid like clockwork every 30k miles?

 

i had problems maybe a month after switching to redline D4 and it was running perfectly before. I wasnt sure what the problem was so i drained it and put another 3 quarts of D4. Now i can barely get the car out of my driveway. I am going to switch back to honda fluid and see if it fixes the problem...

 

It MUST be the transmission fluid!

 

I think IHC is just bored with the forums these days

 

Very bored. And sick with pneumonia and I have to work tomorrow so I'm sitting here on azine while everyone I know is out having fun. I can't even have a beer.

 

I had a 1990 Accord that I used B&M Trick Shift ATF in, which also gives firm, positive shifts similar to a Type F ATF. I believe that is why, even after it started the 3-2 downshift flare (a very common 4th and 5th gen Accord automatic issue), the original automatic still made it to 190,000 miles before failure. My regular mechanic agreed as well, says he's done the same in other transmissions (Type F or B&M ATF) to get help customers get some additional mileage out of their automatics.

 

I'm about to make a mega thread sometime next week about all these constant premature and lame threads. People tend to assume and not actually research on AZ now.

 

ive had redline type F for about 8k now, no problems here. changed the switches at the same time as well.

 

Cold weather flares tend to be valve body related, something internal is bleeding down line pressure when cold, once the ATF and transmission is warmed up, whatever was bleeding down the pressure swells up and it shifts properly. The 4AT in the '02/03 Maximas are notorious for a cold weather 2-3 upshift flare, even with low miles. My '02 4AT Maxima had the cold weather flare, until it warmed up, I'd lift slightly on the throttle just before the upshift to eliminate the flare. Unfortunately, the car was totaled by a drunk but I'd managed to get that automatic to 195k miles and it still shifted great...once warmed up, of course. When Nissan finally issued a TSB, it called for replacing the valve body. Those out of warranty usually opted to install the TransGo shift kit which modified the valve body and eliminated the cold weather flare.

I don't know if there is anyone who does valve body modifications on Honda/Acura transmissions other than maybe Level 10, only kit TransGo has is to reduce torque converter overheating. Besides, if using Type F or Redline ATFs make the transmission shift more firmly and positively, that's the route I'd go.

 

I switched to Redline Racing ATF and did a 4x3 on 6/26/11 with 40,000 miles on my trans.
DID NOT replace my 3rd/4th gear pressure switches.

On 12/31/11 my trans had 48,150 miles and I did my 5th drain and fill with 2x D4 and x1 Racing to obtain a 65% racing mixture due to the "Optimal amount of ATF" thread I read.

I didn't experience any flaring for the 8,100 miles I drove with the 4x3 of Racing ATF, but decided to do it for a safety measure.
I still HAVE NOT replaced my 3rd/4th gear pressure switches. I really need to do that soon.

 

^should tell the newbs how it feels now with the redline in it

 

after about a year with thte type f in there, i noticed it would flare slightly on 2-3 shifts, and downshifts into 2nd were very abrupt. did a 1x3 of 2qts D4 and 1qt type f and now all is well. No more flaring, no hard downshifts.

 

I went the conservative route and did a 3x3 with 2 D4 + 1 Racing over a year ago. I recently did a 1x3 with same ingredients. Transmission seems fine. I'm almost at 113k. I did change the external filter when I did the 3x3. The switches were done almost 2 years ago.

 

I drained/refilled my ATF about 13k miles ago and have no issues with the TypeF. I really didn't have issues before either, but wanted a quicker shift which I have now. I'm looking forward to checking my drain plug to see if there is less wear on it in another 7k miles.

 

9k miles with amsoil supershift, no problems so far except

(not problems. just stuff)
1. harsh shift when cold (well,,,, duh) but goes away after 3min of driving
2. can definitely feel the car disengaging then engaging between shifts