What happens if I don't replace timing belt at 105k?
08-25-2012, 02:56 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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What happens if I don't replace timing belt at 105k?
let's say do it at 110k instead? Finances are a bit tight and I don't want to shell out $1400 until I absolutely have to. DIY not an option.
2005TL
2005TL
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08-25-2012, 03:38 PM
#5
Senior Moderator
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jk.
I didn't do mine exactly at 105k. More like around 115k. It was fine.
08-25-2012, 03:59 PM
#6
I bet it can actually go a lot longer than 105k. A guy I work with had his original timing belt on his Integra at 300k before it finally snapped. Luckily it didn't damage the engine, he replaced the belt and it was good to go.
Anyway, at 110k you should be fine.
Anyway, at 110k you should be fine.
08-25-2012, 04:27 PM
#7
Race Director
Remember, your MID odometer is reading high by 5%, so it's really due at approx 5K miles after the "service due now" message appears.
http://www.odosettlementinfo.com/
I wouldn't sweat it.
http://www.odosettlementinfo.com/
I wouldn't sweat it.
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08-25-2012, 05:13 PM
#8
06 Anthracite TL
There's a reasonable safety margin if you don't get it done exactly at 105K miles, but I wouldn't push it too hard (like waiting til 150K or so).
08-25-2012, 06:06 PM
#11
Senior Moderator
Nothing will explode or self destruct right at 105K. The recommendation is to change it at 105K as it will wear down by then and can be prone to snapping and causing damage. As others have said they have waited quite a bit and everything has been fine!
08-25-2012, 06:30 PM
#12
08-25-2012, 08:15 PM
#14
Age tends to matter much more than miles. I wouldn't be terribly worried about going 110K, just don't forget to get it done. Unless you live in a very hot or very cold climate, it's likely the timing belt will run 200K+ without failure. However, if it does fail, you can damn near guarantee engine replacement. That's why it tends to be a good idea to replace it when recommended.
Did the MID ever say to perform this service yet?
Did the MID ever say to perform this service yet?
08-26-2012, 07:33 AM
#15
Registered Member
I laughed my butt off with this one. Reminds me of the article Car and Driver ran years ago that had a puppy with a handgun pointed at his head and the caption said something like, "If you don't [whatever it was] we'll shoot this dog".
08-26-2012, 12:50 PM
#16
Instructor
Not to threadjack, but could a worn timing belt cause random misfires? I've been getting random misfire/flashing CEL on and off for several months now, and the only two things I haven't done are check compression and change the timing belt.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
Last edited by wtf8269; 08-26-2012 at 12:55 PM.
08-26-2012, 01:05 PM
#17
06 Anthracite TL
Not to threadjack, but could a worn timing belt cause random misfires? I've been getting random misfire/flashing CEL on and off for several months now, and the only two things I haven't done are check compression and change the timing belt.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
The answer should be no, unless when the new belt was installed, it's a gear tooth or more off, but then, it would likely run consistently poorly as the valve timing would always be off. I would think the prior owner should have proof of getting the service done or at least be able to tell you where it was done. A worn belt should not result in any change in how the car runs until the day it breaks (unless it's 'chunking', breaking off rubber pieces that intersect with the sprocket teeth and throwing the valve timing off) .
Last edited by erdoc48; 08-26-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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splew (08-26-2012)
08-26-2012, 01:16 PM
#18
Racer
The answer should be no, unless when the new belt was installed, it's a gear tooth or more off, but then, it would likely run consistently poorly as the valve timing would always be off. I would think the prior owner should have proof of getting the service done or at least be able to tell you where it was done. A worn belt should not result in any change in how the car runs until the day it breaks (unless it's 'chunking', breaking off rubber pieces that intersect with the sprocket teeth and throwing the valve timing off) .
08-26-2012, 03:26 PM
#20
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Ron A hunts you down.....
08-26-2012, 03:46 PM
#22
the overexplainer
You may or may not be able to really tell anything, but if it has oil on it or it looks oily it could be the hydraulic tensioner leaking which means it probably has not been replaced.
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JoeChege (08-26-2012)
08-26-2012, 05:20 PM
#23
Intermediate
Age tends to matter much more than miles. I wouldn't be terribly worried about going 110K, just don't forget to get it done. Unless you live in a very hot or very cold climate, it's likely the timing belt will run 200K+ without failure. However, if it does fail, you can damn near guarantee engine replacement. That's why it tends to be a good idea to replace it when recommended.
Did the MID ever say to perform this service yet?
Did the MID ever say to perform this service yet?
08-26-2012, 06:23 PM
#24
Drifting
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And yeah, a while after 105K is likely going to be fine. I think that's one of those "liability" things as much as it is a critical maintenance thing. Acura doesn't want the belt snapping before that and having to take heat. Therefore, they probably recommend a far more conservative interval. I'm not saying it shouldn't be done by 105K but that it can probably safely go well beyond that.
08-27-2012, 06:18 AM
#28
Not to threadjack, but could a worn timing belt cause random misfires? I've been getting random misfire/flashing CEL on and off for several months now, and the only two things I haven't done are check compression and change the timing belt.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
Edit: I should add I bought my car at 118k (it's currently almost at 140k) and was assured the timing belt was changed when I purchased it. IE: I had no physical proof.
engine misfires on a 6MT usually points to one thing.
Some one OVER-REVVED the engine.
08-27-2012, 08:27 AM
#30
Safety Car
08-27-2012, 09:12 AM
#31
Racer
105k-110k = nothing will most likely happen. Numerous threads on here where people have run 200K + on the initial belt (I HIGHLY recommend NOT doing this).
Just as an FYI: change your timing belt asap, as this will be a much more financially sound option than replacing your engine when it breaks and fucks your valves/pistons.
Just as an FYI: change your timing belt asap, as this will be a much more financially sound option than replacing your engine when it breaks and fucks your valves/pistons.
08-27-2012, 09:16 AM
#32
the overexplainer
08-27-2012, 10:14 AM
#33
Drifting
OP - there should be no immediate harm, but again, you are gambling on the fact that it could break down and snap when you least expect it.
08-27-2012, 11:56 AM
#34
Desert Life Sucks!!
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For 1400.00 they better replace belt, water pump, coolant, tensioner, crank and cam seals, spark plugs, drive belt, and give you a hand job.
I replaced the TB and water pump on my honda odyssey at 142k miles due to not having the service records and it was the original water pump, could tell by the manufacture date stamped onto it and it looked brand new. Both outside and the pump itself, not a spec of deterioration.
The timing belt also had visible markings still and could read the honda part number. It did have signs of drying and cracking but looked better than some I have replaced at 90k miles.
I would say you would be fine but have to advise that you change it as soon as possible before we read your next thread:
What do I do after my timing belt snaps??
I replaced the TB and water pump on my honda odyssey at 142k miles due to not having the service records and it was the original water pump, could tell by the manufacture date stamped onto it and it looked brand new. Both outside and the pump itself, not a spec of deterioration.
The timing belt also had visible markings still and could read the honda part number. It did have signs of drying and cracking but looked better than some I have replaced at 90k miles.
I would say you would be fine but have to advise that you change it as soon as possible before we read your next thread:
What do I do after my timing belt snaps??
08-27-2012, 01:06 PM
#35
Team Owner
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No one here can say for sure what will happen. I suspect that you will be fine but all I can really say is that you should do it as soon as possible.
Also keep in mind that cash may be tight but replacing an engine will hurt a lot more than finding the cash to pay for the service.
Where are you located?
Also keep in mind that cash may be tight but replacing an engine will hurt a lot more than finding the cash to pay for the service.
Where are you located?
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Guiltyox (08-27-2012)
08-27-2012, 05:05 PM
#37
Intermediate
My car's timing belt was replaced at 116K thereabouts. Car didn't blow up before that.
My dad's RX was supposed to have it replaced at 100K, car is at 120K and according to online forums, can easily go 50K more.
My recommendation is ... if you can get yourself to Hamilton Honda and do it soon just get it done with. Wait for good prices.
My dad's RX was supposed to have it replaced at 100K, car is at 120K and according to online forums, can easily go 50K more.
My recommendation is ... if you can get yourself to Hamilton Honda and do it soon just get it done with. Wait for good prices.
08-27-2012, 05:26 PM
#38
Drifting
Also to note, if you don't want to DIY check your local shops as well as the Honda dealer.
Acura -- $2100 (TB, WP, Acc Belt, Spark Plugs, Valve Adj, loaner vehicle)
Honda -- $835 (TB, WP, Acc Belt)
Honda -- $1300 (TB, WP, Acc Belt, Spark Plugs, Valve Adj, Rotate Tires, Air Filter, oil change, loaner vehicle)
Local Shop -- $982 (TB, WP, Tensioner, Idler -- using NAPA parts)
The local shop won't save me enough money to justify them over the Honda dealership. So much less hassle going to Honda or Acura truthfully. Will also have them check/replace my engine mounts while they are in there. Also helps that the Honda dealer doesn't mark up their parts (they don't discount them either) like the Acura dealer (25% over MSRP) does.
I am at 106K now and the MID is not alerting yet. I would rather just get it done while I have time, patience, and money. Mine will probably be taken to the local Honda dealer within the next week or two. I may see about cutting the tire rotation, air filter, and oil change off since those are either free (rotation & oil change) or easy DIY (air filter).
Acura -- $2100 (TB, WP, Acc Belt, Spark Plugs, Valve Adj, loaner vehicle)
Honda -- $835 (TB, WP, Acc Belt)
Honda -- $1300 (TB, WP, Acc Belt, Spark Plugs, Valve Adj, Rotate Tires, Air Filter, oil change, loaner vehicle)
Local Shop -- $982 (TB, WP, Tensioner, Idler -- using NAPA parts)
The local shop won't save me enough money to justify them over the Honda dealership. So much less hassle going to Honda or Acura truthfully. Will also have them check/replace my engine mounts while they are in there. Also helps that the Honda dealer doesn't mark up their parts (they don't discount them either) like the Acura dealer (25% over MSRP) does.
I am at 106K now and the MID is not alerting yet. I would rather just get it done while I have time, patience, and money. Mine will probably be taken to the local Honda dealer within the next week or two. I may see about cutting the tire rotation, air filter, and oil change off since those are either free (rotation & oil change) or easy DIY (air filter).
08-27-2012, 11:02 PM
#40
Drifting
