Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

What do you mean they won't light up? They are supposed to light up only when the switch is in parking lights mode or if the switch is set to headlights. Do you mean they wont flash unless in parking mode/headlight mode?

Did you install CLS in the front or just the rear? I think you need to install them in the front as well. VLEDS claims you only need one CLS box but with one but my rears were hyperflashing with two its fine.

I will try out my fronts tomorrow and let you know. They shipped my switchbacks in a USPS box and they were all over in the box with no protection. The day I had bought my rears they came in a huge box and were packaged very well, these looked like a 5 year old had tested them and threw them in the box with no padding. One of my CLS box has something loose inside, you can hear it moving around. Hopefully its not broken.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I started of by saying I didn't use the collar so all my comments after that were about the gaskets.

I got 8 gaskets in the package:

• 2 Large diameter thin gasket
• 2 Large diameter thicker gasket
• 2 Small diameter thin gasket
• 2 Small diameter thicker gasket

I used the "Small diameter thin gasket" on the tails and the "Small diameter thick gasket" on the headlights.

Also after talking some with THTL, the reason he needed the adapter collar for the front was because he has a Type-S. I don't think the collar is needed for the Base TLs that use a 7443 bulb.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I have a bad switchback as well. I didn't see the problem when testing the bulbs or doing the video as I never had the car running.

The one on the drivers side isn't working right. Here's a breakdown of what is going on.

• When ignition is in off, acc, or on (car not started) positions the switchback works fine (fully functional).
• When the car has been started the following happens (Passenger side works fine, drivers side has these problems):
  • Parking lights only - White light will typically come on but will be constantly flickering. There are times when it doesn't come on at all or it's off but will have an occaisonal flicker of white light.
  • Headlights are turned on. The white light goes out completely and sometimes has a rare flicker of light. The white wire from the control box is hooked up to the headlight power to activate the 50% dim level. Yes it is hooked up correctly as it functions right when the engine is not running. The white light will work momentarily when you activated the turn signal for the first time as the white light will flash on then change to Amber/Off blinking (same actually happens to both switchbacks when lights are off and turn signal is used for first time but not thereafter). The white light does not reappear after that.
  • Headlights are on and engine is running. If you turn off the engine (to acc position) the white light comes back on again immediatly.

Based on the behavior I think that the control board is bad especially since the passenger side switchback works fine. It is working fine when getting 12V when the car is off but when it jumps to 14.1V (or 14.3V) when the car is running it isn't working right. The control box on the bad light is the same one that had the stripped screws on the end cap.

Any thoughts?

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Correlation?

ebelp

Are you absolutely positive your control box is plugged in the right way? It's very easy to connect the wires incorrectly. The instruction page they supply show you exactly how it should be plugged in. Make sure double and triple check it...

dj5

I have the same problem with the hyper flashing if I install the front and rears. The CLS instructions says to open the resistor and replace the 20W bulbs with supplied 35W bulbs if using for 2 leds (front and back). There were no 35W bulbs supplied. I've contacted VLED about sending the bulbs but have not received yet and they haven't responded to my second email. At this point, I'm not a happy camper. I'm going to see if I can find some 35W bulbs and replace and see if that corrects the problem. With the problem and the price, I probably wouldn't buy these leds again.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I am 100% certain and I have the video I took to prove it. Good question though, always need to make sure.

08TList

iTrader: (-1)

my switchbacks arrived pretty tightly packed in a usps priority box that was stuffed into another shipping envelope, they didn't seem to have much room to shake around. They arrived pre plugged in for me, but can't test em until my car is outta the shop.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

sounds like some crazy problems out there hopefully they all get resolved. are these the triton v3 switchbacks? i ordered 5k ones and they are now backordered until mid march...will have been waiting on these 5k ones for 4 months by the time mid march rolls around..

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

I used those cheap amber tower leds for signal, they came out yellow, just like those Range Rover signals. Looks red but, when you turn on the signals, they are orange.

I was thinking that with these orange tritons, it would be way amber signals even with the red cover
I might test that

Talked to them today, they are sending me new sockets

08TList

iTrader: (-1)

incase anyone finds it useful, thats how vleds hooked them up

THTL

iTrader: (2)

Ok so i have fixed the hyper flash problem by replacing the 20w light bulbs with a 35w bulbs located inside the cls box. I only 2 cls installed in the rear. I am still having problem with the front signals. It will not flash. Even with the hazard switch on if the headlight swith is off. It only work( flAshes) with the parking light headlight on. Could it be thAt i am using the CK base adaptor instead of the " Standard"?

THTL

iTrader: (2)

The loosing sound u hear inside the cls box is a screw. I have the same problem.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I contacted VLEDs and they think that the control box is probably good but the white circuit isn't running at 0 load. As I don't have the CLS module (I did the turn signal relay mod), they recommended attaching a load resistor to the turn signal circuit to see if that resolves the issue. If so I'll need a CLS Module.

Luckily I still have my load resistors so I can test this out tonight.

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

I would like to thank Buda for his info, the smaller thicker gasket+2 3MM screws opposite of each other makes the bulb fit nice and snug inside the socket. As far as your issue with it dimming with the headlights or turning off it may be the white wire you attached? I didn't even bother to attach that. Hope you get that figured out quick!

I installed the fronts this morning. I have V3 in the rear and now have them in the front. I have CLS module attached to each bulb so I am running 4 CLS modules. Mine are working somewhat fine on the first try. Not sure if this is normal or not but are they supposed to flash white first when you indicate? Mine flash white and change over to amber. Happens almost every time. Maybe this is normal?

I am not very happy with the fronts in terms of brightness. They are almost like stock....not much difference. My friend has the 120 LED towers and his look a little brighter. After installing the rears I had high hopes for the fronts. My parents cars have OEM led turn signals in the front and these are nowhere near as bright as those in the front. However the rears are a close match! The rears tritons are also brighter than Audis new LED turn signal in the back! Just wish the front were as bright.

If anyone cares the 5k v3 tritons match the USR white LED sidemarkers perfect.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Just jumped back into this thread. My switchbacks were being a bitch too. I found I had to flip the connection and bent the metal connectors a little bit. Mine were not making contact with the signaling. Using the silicone really helped.

Only thing I noticed that's not normal now...my driver's side blinks white once and then flashes amber like normal.

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

I am in class now but I was reading a thread on HID planet and apparently this is normal.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ton-v3)/page46

Check it out!

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Damn that's stupid...might have to call VLEDs...

350

iTrader: (4)

I did that before with my last vehicle, I put amber LEDs behinda erad lens and they were very amber. Eventually I'll do that on the TL too but for now I just bought the Tritons for my front turn signals since my chrome ones aren't cutting it. Stupid weather needs to warm up when I'm off work so I can install them.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Glad the info helped. As for the white wire, I don't think that is the problem as it works fine with the engine off.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I did as vleds suggested and put on one of my old load resistors (luckily I didn't sell them) on the turn signal circuit in the trunk and it fixed the problems with the white light on the switchback. Unfortunately the load resistor is 4 ohm 100W which is overkill since I did the turn signal relay mod. I may either go ahead and buy the CLS module or look for a smaller load resistor. It's funny that only one side had the problem.

I'm glad it worked but it means that the tritons seem to be very sensitive on the circuitry to need a CLS module or load resistor to ensure correct operation (not counting hyper blink).

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Only some Toyotas and Lexus use "CK" base style adapters.. Honda/Acura use the standard adapter.

You have the wrong adapter, you need to use the regular adapter.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Just replaced the right one, will compare at night too
Installed as Buda told me. Perfect

Park


Signal


Park


Signal

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

Well one of mine just died right after a car wash lol and apparently that white initial flash issue on the switchback affects only 10% of all the V3 switchbacks they have sold. YEAH OK LOL just google this issue nearly 85% of the people are having this issue.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Wow that sucks.

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

Now the other one is not working. Going to rip everything apart and see whats going on. Hopefully its just a small electrical glitch ;(.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

I would try using some dielectric grease. It helped mine. They wren't making contact but I bent the little connectors a bit and then I used the grease. Worked like a charm!

350

iTrader: (4)

Glad I didn't go with switchbacks, they seem to be having issues, my ambers look great. I like the clear when off but amber on look, never really cared for the white sidemarkers either and I think the switchbacks would look stupid without them.

Mug

Hey guys, I'm reading conflicting information on the 2007 base bulb guides. The 3G garage says 7443 for the front: https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...17&postcount=1 , but the sylvania guide says 1157. I ordered the 1157. Anyone know for sure what I need here?

08TList

iTrader: (-1)

you need 7443/7440. Sylvania and some other places like pep boys have incorrect bulb sizes for our cars as well. hope that solves your problem

felixthecat

Only the Type S uses 1157.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

ordered the 5k triton v3 switchbacks in december and was told they would be backordered until mid march....on saturday they randomly show up at my door, no shipping notice or anything, excited to get these in. the new 5k DRL LEDs are still backordered until mid march but i'll run these switchbacks with my 6k towers for now

any other advice/hints on getting the switchbacks to fit just right into a type s (from reading sounds like i need the adaptor collar and 2 gaskets per socket)? what about mounting the control units and the CLS modules? may also post in the other vled thread here https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/received-my-vled-triton-v3-led-park-turn-bulbs-few-pics-inside-874983/

thanks!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

any picture/video updates from anyone?

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Apparently I didn't post this up in this thread... Here's my review/comparison

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wow, Buda...you know how to make a well documented and descriptive video. Thanks for sharing all that, man.
J.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Holy hell those are bright.

Also, Buda, what kind of garage flooring do you have? I saw lines... Lol

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the feedback on the video!

I have the G-Floor vinyl flooring and love it. I have the ribbed version which is the cheapest. I would have liked the coin pattern instead but didn't want to spend the extra money at the time. Besides the ribbed pattern keeps spills contained quite well.

Here is the main site for the product: http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

I bought it at Sam's club: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/search/...questid=268898

In the list for Sam's club I got 3 of the 10'x22' sheets (has ribbed pattern in bullet points). It should be the second item in the list. I think it was $200 per roll when I got it. I can't tell you the current price as I don't have a membership (I used Steven Bell's membership to buy them). Steven has this in his garage as well.