VLEDS 10 LED DRL and Wiring Harness
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
VLEDS 10 LED DRL and Wiring Harness
Installed my 10 LED DRL from VLEDs using their new wiring harness, link to kit http://www.vleds.com/07-08-acura-tl-...rsion-kit.html. After the install there is no bulb out warning on the dash and bulbs are receiving full power. The kit is very simple to install, I used the great DIY that The Machine wrote as a reference since the kit is very similar to the one from iJDMtoy; https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/ijdmtoy-led-drl-harness-install-w-pics-853543/.
The hardest part of the install was actually removing the old bulbs, I couldn't get them out by hand so I had to use pliers to grab onto the bulbs to twist them loose. I mounted the passenger side resistor to the AC hose bracket. On the driver side I used double sided tape to mount the resistor next the battery. Total install time was about 1.5 hours, but a lot of that time was spent trying to get the old bulbs out. If I was to do it again it would probably take half that time.
DRL Kit:
Passenger side resistor and ground:
Driver side resistor:
LEDs installed:
The hardest part of the install was actually removing the old bulbs, I couldn't get them out by hand so I had to use pliers to grab onto the bulbs to twist them loose. I mounted the passenger side resistor to the AC hose bracket. On the driver side I used double sided tape to mount the resistor next the battery. Total install time was about 1.5 hours, but a lot of that time was spent trying to get the old bulbs out. If I was to do it again it would probably take half that time.
DRL Kit:
Passenger side resistor and ground:
Driver side resistor:
LEDs installed:
#3
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
Those look wonderful!
Thanks for the wiring guide and pics!
Thanks for the wiring guide and pics!
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#8
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
These are the 6K version. I was expecting them to have a slight bluish tint, but if you look directly at them they are white. I would say they are easily visible in sunlight, I didn't get a chance to take any photos during the day but another member who has the same bulbs has some in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=885607&page=2.
#9
Team Owner
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
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Undying Dreams (05-07-2013)
#13
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
yea all my 5000k LEDs had like a yellow tint to the white where the 6000k are a pure white it seems. so i just sold them all my buddies have the same problem and are swapping them out. I'm also running morimoto 3five's and mine are obviously 5000k, LEDs arnt the same and people need to realize that, as well as differences in brands. all my LEDs are from vled and 6000k and they match, once u start mixing and matching brands ur screwed
#21
blah!
I thought that if you got a relay for the HIDs and DRL kit that you could somehow run a switch off the relay. But I'm not too good with electrical stuff to know how to do it without a guide.
I think it looks awesome when your DRLs are on with your HIDs.
I think it looks awesome when your DRLs are on with your HIDs.
#22
White LEDs actually use blue diodes with a phosphor coating that converts the blue into white, the color temperature is controlled by using more or less of the phosphor; this is why it varies so much from manufacturer to manufacturer. Typically cheap Chinese LEDs use less of the coating and have less stringent control so their LEDs are usually more blue in color and can vary from batch to batch.
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vietxquangstah (05-07-2013)
#23
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Only my opinion of course
#25
Intermediate
I have the old version of these in 5k and just received my new 10 LED ones. I am swapping them out the next nice day i get. Will post pics for the 5k crowd. I have Osram CBIs, 5k V3 triton swithbacks, and 5k morimoto HID fogs and everything matches perfectly.
#28
Advanced
Fuck. so i tried installing this kit today but i installed it wrong. After seeing yours and mine, i noticed that i dont have the inline resistors? my resistors both have a female and a male connect to them so how am i supposed to connect these now lol
#30
Intermediate
Did you get the VLEDs kit? Post a picture of what you have if not.
#31
Racer
Are you experiencing any flickering issues with your kit?
Not sure if VLED has resolved but my kit developed the flickering over the course of a few months. Something to keep an eye out for. I do miss the LED DRLs when they worked correctly.
Not sure if VLED has resolved but my kit developed the flickering over the course of a few months. Something to keep an eye out for. I do miss the LED DRLs when they worked correctly.
#33
Racer
Thanks, tried everything and it wasn't the ground. The entire bulb wasn't flickering... only a handful of LEDs on the bulb which looked like chunks were missing at times.
#34
Advanced
#35
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
^sorry but that harness isn't going to work, its not the same as req21's. the relay part is different and thats the main thing. the harness that works for the TL requires a positive input from one side, and a negative input from the other side, your harness has 1 input with both positive and negative.
the only harness that I know of works 100% is the ijdmtoy one. not sure if vleds offers anything similar.
the only harness that I know of works 100% is the ijdmtoy one. not sure if vleds offers anything similar.
#37
Senior Moderator
I have the VLED one as well and it seems to work half the time. I know it works when I start up the car in the morning but then when I get off work, only the passenger side is on. I haven't had time to troubleshoot but I was just under the impression it may be a bad ground/relay or loose connection.
George,
From a logical perspective, I'm trying to figure out why this wouldn't work. I know the iJDMtoy has positive one on end and negative on the passenger, but surely that's not completely necessary. I mean when you use halogen bulbs, there's no connection there. I have in line resistors on both passenger and drivers side, that should simulate the load and be all the computer wants to give power. The input should power the relay which then grabs power from the battery to the LEDs.
I've been really trying to wrap my head around why this wouldn't work. Feel free to discuss electrical experts.
George,
From a logical perspective, I'm trying to figure out why this wouldn't work. I know the iJDMtoy has positive one on end and negative on the passenger, but surely that's not completely necessary. I mean when you use halogen bulbs, there's no connection there. I have in line resistors on both passenger and drivers side, that should simulate the load and be all the computer wants to give power. The input should power the relay which then grabs power from the battery to the LEDs.
I've been really trying to wrap my head around why this wouldn't work. Feel free to discuss electrical experts.
#39
Intermediate
I'll take a look at my setup when I get a chance.
#40
Intermediate
Also for your resistor with both connections, did you try setting it up and just leaving the plug type one unconnected to anything? Just plug resistors into factory and the led bulbs into the harness. On the relay, driver side has two connections to the battery and on passenger one black wire you ground to the bolt that req21 shows. Don't see why it wouldn't work.