Uinstalling PCD to Install HFC
Uinstalling PCD to Install HFC
Last time i did it i used my ramps in the back raised the front and supported with craftsman 4 ton jack stands, which i borrowed and then returned after the install
. Well anyways i have the 3 ton one myself, for some reason i dont know if they are safe enough when raised 6 notches up or pretty much level witht he rhino ramps. when i look at them, the arm doesnt look straight really. Im gonna leave the car on them tonight. and start working on it tomorrow.
Should i be concerend or can you guys recommend me some safety tips cause im gonnna be working alone on it. No warnings or help
Maybe i should just go and buy the 4 ton pro grade from craftsman...
. Well anyways i have the 3 ton one myself, for some reason i dont know if they are safe enough when raised 6 notches up or pretty much level witht he rhino ramps. when i look at them, the arm doesnt look straight really. Im gonna leave the car on them tonight. and start working on it tomorrow.Should i be concerend or can you guys recommend me some safety tips cause im gonnna be working alone on it. No warnings or help

Maybe i should just go and buy the 4 ton pro grade from craftsman...
That is pretty high up, can you stack some boards under the front tires? I mean, you might shit your pants if you are under the car and it collapses onto the boards, but at least you'll probably be alive.
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Dude...I just jacked up my car from the front jack point and put some jack stands under the sides. I had no problems and that was plenty of space to work with. if you're on ramps...the car ain't goin anywhere. Physics dictates it. You don't even need the jackstands with ramps.
well i am on ramps at the rear and jack stands under the front and the car is pretty much level which helps with equal pressure but still im sceptic as you never know what could go wrong.
Place as much stuff under the car (improvised supports) as you can that will support a falling vehicle. Not concrete blocks which will crumple under the hit. Things very rigid and tough such as wood, etc.
Place the improvised supports along the inward parts of the undercarriage, not along the perimeter (edges). If the vehicle was to fall, the vehicle will probably move approx 6-12" from it's current location (in an unknown direction).
The safest route would to be buy those 4-ton pro-grade stands from craftsman and to used the improvised supports (placed along the inward sections of the undercarriage).
Last edited by Inaccurate; Jun 28, 2011 at 11:56 PM.
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I've left my uncle's Jeep Grand Cherokee on 4 3 ton jack stands for 4 days and left the jacks putting little pressure on the front and rear jack points. It was fine. As long as you do everything correctly, nothing will happen. Almost all jacking accidents happen to lack of attention to detail or the use of low quality equipment.
^ Thanks for being a good sport with my cheap jab.
To all readers - One point I would like to clear-up. I am not an advocate of placing something under the wheel. Although placing something under the wheel is better than nothing, I propose a more secure method.
Quality jack stands are the primary support. So, I am discussing secondary supports (aka, improvised supports) in addition to the jack stands. Place secondary supports between the ground and the undercarriage. Use secondary supports that are wide (in relation to their height). The wide base is desired to resist toppling-over in the event that the vehicle is falling with a sideways motion (most likely scenario).
To all readers - One point I would like to clear-up. I am not an advocate of placing something under the wheel. Although placing something under the wheel is better than nothing, I propose a more secure method.
Quality jack stands are the primary support. So, I am discussing secondary supports (aka, improvised supports) in addition to the jack stands. Place secondary supports between the ground and the undercarriage. Use secondary supports that are wide (in relation to their height). The wide base is desired to resist toppling-over in the event that the vehicle is falling with a sideways motion (most likely scenario).
be safe lol. but anyways what my friend did when i installed my atop quads my friend jacked the car up from the front right tire and the back right tire lol so it was standing on one side and he went under and installed it for me. iono if thats a good idea to do by yourself but. thats what i did hahah
^ Thanks for being a good sport with my cheap jab.
To all readers - One point I would like to clear-up. I am not an advocate of placing something under the wheel. Although placing something under the wheel is better than nothing, I propose a more secure method.
Quality jack stands are the primary support. So, I am discussing secondary supports (aka, improvised supports) in addition to the jack stands. Place secondary supports between the ground and the undercarriage. Use secondary supports that are wide (in relation to their height). The wide base is desired to resist toppling-over in the event that the vehicle is falling with a sideways motion (most likely scenario).
To all readers - One point I would like to clear-up. I am not an advocate of placing something under the wheel. Although placing something under the wheel is better than nothing, I propose a more secure method.
Quality jack stands are the primary support. So, I am discussing secondary supports (aka, improvised supports) in addition to the jack stands. Place secondary supports between the ground and the undercarriage. Use secondary supports that are wide (in relation to their height). The wide base is desired to resist toppling-over in the event that the vehicle is falling with a sideways motion (most likely scenario).
Thanks man
The Pro 4-ton is the same set that I use. I recommend using four quality stands, one at each corner of the car.
Position the rear stands perches (this is the curved groove in the stand head) under the rear sway bar mounts (the u-shaped metal strap with rubber inside holding sway bar in place). The u-shaped metal strap is located (in general) in front of the rear mufflers along the under carriage. Lower the car while carefully positioning the u-shaped mount to be centered on top of the curved section on the jack stand (perch).
Position the front stands perches under the front aluminum subframe in front of the front tires.
I would place the 4-ton stands in the rear because the 4-ton stands probably have a wider base. The rear stands will be retracted higher to reach up there. Being higher, the wider base is important for lateral support to resist tip-over. Whereas the front stands are not retracted much and need less support from a wide base. Both 3 and 4 ton stands are more than enough to support either the front or the rear of the car (from a load capacity point of view).
The jack can be used as an additional secondary support. If you are using a hydraulic floor jack, leave the jack under the car (along the designated lifting point) with a small amount of load on the jack. Do this only after you have lowered the jack completely to verify that the stands are sound. I like to let the jack down a bit fast so that the car slams onto the stands to test the stands under the slight slam impact of the lowering car. This is how I always do it too.
As a reminder, remember to look around the house for something that can be used as a secondary support as we discussed. You want something very wide (for example, 2 or 3 feet diameter) to place as close to you as possible while you are under there.
The secondary support is there as a back-up plan. For example, what if someone drove into your driveway and bumped your car while you were under it. The quality stands will not protect you. The whole car would tip over on the four stands and fall on you. Whereas the wide piece of junk that you found in the back yard would had saved your life. This is just food for thought.
Last edited by Inaccurate; Jun 29, 2011 at 03:14 PM.
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