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Hey guys! Back again with more issues lol. So I've got the 2007 TL with now 204k miles on it. When I got it last year @178k miles I replaced the clutch oil sensors and did a 1x3 flush (it was doing that thing where when it shift down from 4 to 3 or 3 to 2 it'd throw you forward it so was rough). Which made a YUGE difference. Yesterday I did the whole 3x3 flush. While it did make a difference (Smoother shift into D from P, down shifts are smoother, most up shifts are smoother, seems snappier too), it still flares from 2nd to 3rd gear. So, if I don't let off the gas, or have it change gears under 2k RPM or above 3.2K RPM then when it goes to shift from 2nd to 3rd the motor revs about 300-500 rpm before as it shifts. I believe it's called "Transmission flaring". I'll include a video if my description is too vague. There was also a bunch of black sticky goop on the trans plug magnet, so, say it ain't so boys but I'm thinking I"ll need a new trans before 300k miles, hopefully closer to 250k lol. Since that black shit is burnt clutch material, right? Also, about the timing chain and water pump: I don't know when the last owner did it, MID hasn't told me to do it yet... Keep waiting? Gonna pop the cover off before it gets too cold and take a look at it... Not sure I want to spend $4,000 on a rebuild and $800 on the timing chain/water pump if it's gonna be in the next 20k miles Other than that this car has required considerably less work that the '01 I put almost 100k miles on, which I and my friend have recently seen driving around town north of 255k miles (dumb shit trans guy I took it to mistook a bad CV shaft for a bad trans)...
Well, every time I hanged ATF in any car that has magnetic plug, including my TL, plug looked the same. Clutches are a wear item. Nothing to worry about that.
During shifting, does engine RPM drop to 300-500 or you mean that it increases rpm before engaging next gear by that much? Does this shift takes long amount of time even if using "manual" mode? Did you ever did pressure switches? (clutch oil sensors?)
It increases by 300 to 500 RPM before getting into the next gear. I'll go and try and film it real quick here. The manual mode is a slightly different story, if it's in manual mode it won't do it every time, maybe like 60% of the time. I did the clutch oil pressures sensors last year, got them from the Acura OEM website. I used Honda ATF DW-1 as well when I flushed everything. I went a half a quart light on the fluid because I wasn't sure the right amount was in there. Looks low on the dipstick but for whatever reason when I pull it there's fluid all over it so it's hard to check the level. Seems like the fluid levels change considerably between hot and cold so I was gonna run it for a few days, check it, then add half a quart to it if needed. It's been over and under on fluid since I've had it and I've noticed no difference in shift quality. Glad to hear the black goop is normal lmfao.
Ah okay, well based on the rate it's been getting worse I'm thinking it'll be around another 40k miles until it goes then. Am I right in assuming it will get gradually worse or will it just go one day with the shift quality remaining as is?? I should add that if I let off the gas when it switches it switches fine. I remember Scotty Kilmer had a show on slipping transmissions or something and had mentioned usually if you just drive it "right" it will last a while.
Your symptoms seem very mild and I would guess it will probably last a long time the way it is. I don't think it will just stop but it will most likely get progressively worse over time.
Hey guys! ... I replaced the clutch oil sensors and did a 1x3 flush (it was doing that thing where when it shift down from 4 to 3 or 3 to 2 it'd throw you forward it so was rough)... While it did make a difference (Smoother shift into D from P, down shifts are smoother, most up shifts are smoother, seems snappier too), it still flares from 2nd to 3rd gear. ...
Originally Posted by zoopzop
...I used Honda ATF DW-1 as well when I flushed everything. I went a half a quart light on the fluid because I wasn't sure the right amount was in there. Looks low on the dipstick but for whatever reason when I pull it there's fluid all over it so it's hard to check the level. Seems like the fluid levels change considerably between hot and cold ... Glad to hear the black goop is normal lmfao.
Originally Posted by newspeed
... I would guess ... it will most likely get progressively worse over time.
My experience is similar to a point: 2008 rdx 5AT, got used @208k km. Did the full maintenance, got new pressure switches, fresh DW1 3x1 and then same as you, big improvement, only to start to be rough at the gear change ~60km/h within few months, before the next oil change was due. New oil would immediately hide the hiccup, only to quickly come back. I kept replacing the ATF with fresh DW1 another two times 3x1, hiccup kept coming back, only at that gear change and no flaring- just the jerking. The black goo also was coming back, though less than first time.
Then part of preventive maintenance I had new engine mounts installed - not the transmission mount, just before I changed to Redline D6 a single 3x1. The hiccup was gone and stayed like that, now more than a year, two full oil changes. Just by chance the new oil was delayed to a few weeks after the mounts, so I can pinpoint the big improvement with the engine mounts, not the oil change. Have not changed fluid to compare the goo since.
However the oil has not deteriorated anymore like the DW1 was quickly doing, ymmv.
Underfilling may lead to moments of less oil available, not good. Slightly overfilling might just roll the car forward while idling on level road, prevent lack of oil ...
Thanks to dcmodels, info re similar 5AT, though not exact match:
In my case, RLd6 matches the environment better, and is much simpler rather than mix fluids. Other oils have similar reports of lasting improvements, like valvoline maxlife, thanks to jjrphs sharing his experiences:
*** DISCLAIMER: Due to changing and likely different driving patterns do not consider my experience typical, what fluid you use in your car is your business and your responsibility.