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Transmission Dilema Regarding Rebuild (Need Everyone's Opinions)

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Old 02-23-2012, 12:59 PM
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Transmission Dilema Regarding Rebuild (Need Everyone's Opinions)

So I had my transmission rebuilt in early summer of last year by Five Star Transmissions in Amarillo,TX. My '04 TL (5AT) is acting exactly like it did before the rebuild and that is very concerning. Hard shifts into 3rd and 4th gear and sometimes even a hard downshift (rare..but it happens). I called them and told them that the car didn't feel right and how it felt the same as before it was rebuilt. I asked if they did the 3/4th Pressure Switches as I found that was a known weak point in these transmissions and he said "yeah...I've done a few of these before and they are a weak point, but (looks up my receipt) looks like we didn't replace those". I said okay well if I take it to a transmission shop and have them look it over, are you guys going to cover the cost if it needs them b/c I don't want my transmission failing shortly after my 1yr warranty. He said "no, we won't cover that".

The issue is that this happened while I was traveling somewhere for school. This shop is about 4 to 4.5 hours away from me. He stated that if it needed any "large repairs" or a "full rebuild again" that it would have to come back to their shop. I asked about other simple things that might go wrong and he said I could have it checked out locally. Anyways, like I said...I'm having the same problems as I had before they rebuilt the transmission. I don't feel like it shifts correctly or smoothly at all and when I paid $2,000+ for this I should get a transmission that works well for a long time!

With that being said, what can I do? Do I call them and tell them that I'm taking it to a shop to be checked out and they can pay the bill if they find anything wrong or pay the bill even if they don't find anything? I'll be calling them shortly to find out if someone (say me) did install the 3/4th Pressure Switches and changed the ATF to Redline D4 or something...if that would void my warranty. When I asked what ATF they used when I picked it up, he said they used "their blend for a fresh rebuild". Whatever the hell that means.


So you guys...what do you think my options are and how do you think I should go about this??? Thanks again!
Old 02-23-2012, 04:25 PM
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Do we have a bunch of zombies on here or what?? No one?
Old 02-23-2012, 04:30 PM
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i would say make them pay for it thats why its called a warranty is there resposibilty to pay for it if they didnt do it when they did the rebuilt
Old 02-23-2012, 04:53 PM
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You can't fault them for not covering something if someone else has done something while it is under their warranty.

All you can really do it take it back to them. If the pressure switches should have been included in the rebuild, then have them do that. Even if the pressure switches were not part of the cost to rebuild, have them change them anyway noting that it was done some time after the rebuild.

I'm not sure if the pressure switches would cause any damage if they were already bad or go bad after the rebuild but if that was something you spec'd in the rebuild then you should have made absolutely sure it was done. Not having done that is probably going to cause you headaches if it indeed does fail within or shortly after the warranty expires.

Good Luck!
Old 02-23-2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ep3kid914
i would say make them pay for it thats why its called a warranty is there resposibilty to pay for it if they didnt do it when they did the rebuilt
Exactly. Not my fault they didn't fix the underlying problem.

Originally Posted by KN_TL
You can't fault them for not covering something if someone else has done something while it is under their warranty.

All you can really do it take it back to them. If the pressure switches should have been included in the rebuild, then have them do that. Even if the pressure switches were not part of the cost to rebuild, have them change them anyway noting that it was done some time after the rebuild.

I'm not sure if the pressure switches would cause any damage if they were already bad or go bad after the rebuild but if that was something you spec'd in the rebuild then you should have made absolutely sure it was done. Not having done that is probably going to cause you headaches if it indeed does fail within or shortly after the warranty expires.

Good Luck!
That's why I was calling them in the first place to see if they would cover the warranty work even if it needed a part that they didn't replace. If you paid someone to fix you water heater and they said they fixed it, but it still doesn't work correctly...are they off the hook? Wouldn't a terrible company try to get out of paying or doing the rest of the work?

It's not so easy to just take it back to them for something like the pressure switches. We are 350+ miles away from each other. I'm trying to be the nice guy and tell him that something is up and I think it may be something as cheap as the switches, but he can choose a transmission shop here around me for me to go to...so he knows I'm not screwing him/the business over. I never told them to do anything in specific b/c I was told that my transmission needed a full rebuild. If the customer had to specify each part that they needed, then the customer could just do it themselves ya know lol. Well..not really...but you know what I mean. I paid them to fix my transmission & they obviously haven't. I don't think it's my responsibility to pay for something while I'm still under warranty. Not at all my responsibility!

Sorry...needing to blow off some steam, but I hate companies that won't stand up for their work. Pathetic.

Pressure switches and ATF would total around $85 for switches and whatever for ATF...not that much, but it's the thought! And the fact that he won't call me back to let me know if it will void the warranty or not. My other thing is nowhere does it say that the work should be done in "x" radius and if outside of that radius then you pay for towing. I already paid to tow it there, which they were supposed to cover in the first place, but whatever.
Old 02-23-2012, 05:52 PM
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I'm not trying to say you're wrong but given the fact that it's been several months since it was done gives them ammo to deny it is their issue.

If it was the same when you first picked it up or shortly after then you should have taken it back then.

They do sound like people who aren't going to stand by their word. They probably know it'll cost you more in the long run to take them to court or get lawyers involved.

Out of curiosity, what was considered a rebuild to them (parts replaced) and what did it cost? Any particular reason why you chose a shop so far away?
Old 02-23-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
I'm not trying to say you're wrong but given the fact that it's been several months since it was done gives them ammo to deny it is their issue.

Yeah I wasn't trying to attack ya...just kinda came out that way I guess.


If it was the same when you first picked it up or shortly after then you should have taken it back then.

I picked it up after 3 days short of 6 weeks. I hadn't drove for 6 weeks so it just felt weird to be behind a steering wheel lol. Plus I was on the road for 11 hrs straight that morning and still had 4 hours left. I realized after I was about an hour away that my steering wheel was crooked. Probably about 45deg. off judging by the Acura emblem. I could tell it shifted the exact same after about 4-5 months.

They do sound like people who aren't going to stand by their word. They probably know it'll cost you more in the long run to take them to court or get lawyers involved.

Yeah probably.. I've got a few people in the family that are lawyers though so I'm sure I could scare them a little if needed lol.

Out of curiosity, what was considered a rebuild to them (parts replaced) and what did it cost? Any particular reason why you chose a shop so far away?

That's in the original post


Old 02-23-2012, 06:24 PM
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Forget about the principles. Replace the pressure switches and move on.
Old 02-23-2012, 07:15 PM
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And ATF? I don't want to do the whole ALL non-FM fluid quite yet as I'm still in warranty....just in case. So they can't say I put a fluid in that shouldnt go in. Would Redline D4 be the best or Amsoil Full-synthetic or what? I'm assuming most will say go D4 lol
Old 02-23-2012, 07:15 PM
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Sorry for missing some key points and asking them again.

If all you had to begin with was hard shifting and the rebuild didn't fix it then you have to assume it was the switches. That is if they actually did do the rebuild. Not sure how you are going to know that but since your steering was wacked I guess you can assume that they at least removed the tranny.

I agree with Spider, just replace the switches and hope that does it. I wouldn't bother going back especially if they let you drive it away with the wheel off center. Have you had the alignment checked and the wheel adjusted since then?
Old 02-23-2012, 07:19 PM
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No problem. Just didn't want to clutter the thread and type again. I hate threads with a bunch of repeated stuff lol. I really appreciate all the help guys! It looks like the switches are pretty easy to replace..maybe I'll just bite the bullet and replace em. See what happens..

And yeah..had an alignment done to correct the wheel when I got my DWS's put on recently
Old 02-23-2012, 07:47 PM
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my guess is that whoever was the service tech prolly didn't know about the pressure switches....so thats why he didn't change them....

As for the fluid issue...I would pin them down on what "Their blend is???"
From the sounds of it, that could be an issue right there, they might not have used the correct fluid and now the tranny is fragging itself...

I would take it back, yeah its a hassle, yeah they are prolly going to have to rebuild it...
The only thing to do if the warranty is still in effect is drop the car off and hold out the warranty and say its broken fix it or refund me and take it somewhere else....
Old 02-23-2012, 09:18 PM
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It seems like my 2-3 shift likes to go up until 2,500-2,800 RPM's before shifting. When I get those hard shifts it seems like its directly related to a higher shift RPM in that area.

RPM's drop off from about 2,800 to 2,000 when hard shifts. During normal shifts the only drop a few hundred it seems like. I've got a video of it doing a hard-ish shift..I'll upload it and I'll try to get another vid of a hard shift
Old 02-24-2012, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
And ATF? I don't want to do the whole ALL non-FM fluid quite yet as I'm still in warranty....just in case. So they can't say I put a fluid in that shouldnt go in. Would Redline D4 be the best or Amsoil Full-synthetic or what? I'm assuming most will say go D4 lol
Yeah, you'll be fine with D4.
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