Hey guys, I am getting ready to replace my front TLS brakes. I got the Duralast CMax pads and the only question I have is how do you guys push back the pistons after you take out the old pads. I read up the DIYs but not really clear about the pistons. Thanks.

 

If a piston compression tool is n/a, open the bleeder on the caliper side your working on and using the rotor as a leverage point, slide a screw driver between the old pad and rotor, then appdly pressure to the pad and the pistons will go in, close the bleeder. Install the new pad, then on to the other side and do the same. Also a good way to get the "old" fluid out of the caliper rather than sending it back into the system.

 

I use a clamping tool I bought about six years ago from Sears. It is perfect for the job. Somewhat resembles this;

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G11

 

this or a large C clamp will do the trick...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=528604_0_0_

 

C-clamps can damage the caliper as the backside was NOT designed to have that sort of force applied to it. The best thing to do is get the proper piston tool for the brakes.

 

if we wanted to do this the cheap way, a screwdriver would work right? i think i read that quite a few members have done it without any harm. and the bleeder valve does not NEED to be open to do this?

 

no, bleeders dont have to be open.

I did it with the old brake pad by leveraging against the disc. Make sure you push both pistons in on one side. If you push one chances are the other one will pop out, or the piston on the other side of the caliper will pop out. you can play with them pumping in and out (sounds wrong..) and eventually you'll get them both far enough in you can slide a new pad in.

Dont forget to watch your brake fluid levels in the master cyl as you push. IT WILL OVERFLOW if it's at max before you begin. I put a clean towel around the thing and drain some using a turkey baster.

 

Yeah using the old pad is the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way to do it. It's the only way I do it these days.

 

Ever try replacement of the pads by opening the bleeder?

You don't NEED to open the bleeder, but it makes the resistance on the piston(s) much less as they can be moved inwards much easier than trying to push the dirty fluid back into the system and you also won't need to "suck" any brake fluid out of the master cylinder to make room for returning fluid. Killing 2 birds with one stone so to speak as you're getting the contaminated fluid out of the caliper, not all, but a good part of the caliper reservoir is expelled.

Before anyone mentions air entering the system, no air will enter the caliper as there is no reverse motion of the pistons to draw the air in, similar to a gravity bleed.


C clamps will cause no problems, at least I have never seen a caliper damaged by one, but their use is virtually impossibile on a 4 piston caliper setup, but work well with the single piston design. I've even worked on vehicles that had the screw in rear pistons and people have bent a C clamp trying to push the piston inward, but even with this action, saw no damage to the caliper.

 

For the Brembo calipers the C-clamp will not work because there are pistons on both sides of the caliper. The clamping tool SouthernBoy mentioned looks like it might work...

If you open the bleeder valve you should be able to compress the piston with your hands, that is how I usually do it. I also take it as an opportunity to flush/bleed the system, so I have no problem actually removing the caliper itself and draining the fluid.

 

Correction: It will, I've done it. C-clamp + small block of wood = covers the entire surface area of the caliper and can easily compress the pistons.

Good luck!

 

I don't see how it would work since there is no opening on the front side of the Brembo caliper for the clamp to fit like on base calipers.

 

^i used a c-clamp on my brembo's as well.

 

http://www./howto/tl/brembobrakes/tl...hange_pads.php

After removing the brake pad, insert durable piece of metal or wood (large enough to cover the caliper but small enough to enter the opening....), place clamp in a direction where it compresses the caliper/metal or wood, insert brake pad, remove clamp, place back on rotor, verify fitment, screw all bolts back in, put wheel back on, take her for a test drive.

 

Buy This:
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25265-Disc...8670158&sr=8-8
Its less than ten Dollars and its the Right tool along with you Old Pad to push back the Piston to is original place. No need to mess with the Brake Fluid or anything else.

 

The link is broken, but I found the page you're referring to on c-speedracing.

I understand the concept, but with pistons on both side of the caliper how were you two able to get the C-clamp to clear the other side with limited room? Sorry I am not trying to debate. I tried the clamp at first and it wouldn't clear, but since I usually flush the system I drained the fluid and easily pushed the pistons back with my hands.

The C-clamp I am thinking of is the 6" clamp from the autozone link garrett posted.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=528604_0_0_

 

Meh, I just used the old pad...you can easily push it back without damaging it.

 

Looks as if you're removing the caliper assembly, but as we're speaking of the Brembo brakes, the caliper stays put and the pads are dropped in, so using a C Clamp and then place back on rotor?????????