TL Type S Amsoil Oil Analysis
#1
TL Type S Amsoil Oil Analysis
I can't say I'm real impressed with Amsoil's choice of subcontractors for these analyses, especially as a dealer. My next sample I'll probably send off to Blackstone labs because they seem to be less vague with the results. Anyway here it is. This was using an OEM filter (I've since switched back to Purolator PureOne and will switch to an Amsoil filter for the next change) and Amsoil 100% synthetic 5w30 (ASL). 59k miles on the car, about 5500 miles between changes. I had to call the tech and he told me that I could probably put another few thousand on it between changes.
No idea why it's flagged as abnormal. I think they originally didn't have enough information from me, which isn't surprising because the sample registration process was confusing as shit.
Thoughts from those who know what they're looking at?
No idea why it's flagged as abnormal. I think they originally didn't have enough information from me, which isn't surprising because the sample registration process was confusing as shit.
Thoughts from those who know what they're looking at?
#4
Crap the report has my address and cell # at the top, I don't really want to upload that for the world to see haha! The only thing that concerns me is the iron is sort of high, but I don't know when the service tech took the oil (right after removing the plug or right at the end of the drain cycle) and what kind of effect that would have on it.
#5
There susposed to let a little drain out before grabbing the sample if I'm correct. I know at my last job we did oil analysis on all the hydraulic tanks and I helped everytime with the benz oil rep. We tried to pull a sample from the middle of the tank. We also flushed the super long oil sucker every sample.
#6
As the TBN is too low, here's an explanation:
Total Base number (TBN)
The sulphur residues which are a byproduct of the combustion process enter the oil by way of blow-by. They then combine with oxygen from the air, and moisture to produce acids which if left unchecked will etch metal components in the engine.
Consequently, when we buy new engine oil, it has a ‘base reserve’ built in to the additive package, which is designed to neutralize the acids as they are produced. As with all acid base reactions, the 'base reserve' is used up in the process of neutralizing these acids.
This Base reserve is called the TOTAL BASE NUMBER which is a measure of the level of BASE in the oil and is determined by measuring the amount of Potassium Hydroxide in mg taken to neutralize the base reserve in 1 gram of oil (mgKOH/gm).
In the average engine oil, the starting TBN is usually around 6 to 9, however if we are looking to extended drain interval oils, we need to increase the initial TBN so we don't allow the reserve to be depleted before the oil is drained. In some oils, a starting TBN 15 is not un-common and a depletion level should never get below TBN 3, which is a signal to change the oil.
To me it looks as if the oil needs to be changed sooner to maintain the TBN above 3. I see you only have 5500 miles on the oil though. At least the TBN isn't zero.
#7
??????????
As the TBN is too low, here's an explanation:
Total Base number (TBN)
The sulphur residues which are a byproduct of the combustion process enter the oil by way of blow-by. They then combine with oxygen from the air, and moisture to produce acids which if left unchecked will etch metal components in the engine.
Consequently, when we buy new engine oil, it has a ‘base reserve’ built in to the additive package, which is designed to neutralize the acids as they are produced. As with all acid base reactions, the 'base reserve' is used up in the process of neutralizing these acids.
This Base reserve is called the TOTAL BASE NUMBER which is a measure of the level of BASE in the oil and is determined by measuring the amount of Potassium Hydroxide in mg taken to neutralize the base reserve in 1 gram of oil (mgKOH/gm).
In the average engine oil, the starting TBN is usually around 6 to 9, however if we are looking to extended drain interval oils, we need to increase the initial TBN so we don't allow the reserve to be depleted before the oil is drained. In some oils, a starting TBN 15 is not un-common and a depletion level should never get below TBN 3, which is a signal to change the oil.
To me it looks as if the oil needs to be changed sooner to maintain the TBN above 3. I see you only have 5500 miles on the oil though. At least the TBN isn't zero.
As the TBN is too low, here's an explanation:
Total Base number (TBN)
The sulphur residues which are a byproduct of the combustion process enter the oil by way of blow-by. They then combine with oxygen from the air, and moisture to produce acids which if left unchecked will etch metal components in the engine.
Consequently, when we buy new engine oil, it has a ‘base reserve’ built in to the additive package, which is designed to neutralize the acids as they are produced. As with all acid base reactions, the 'base reserve' is used up in the process of neutralizing these acids.
This Base reserve is called the TOTAL BASE NUMBER which is a measure of the level of BASE in the oil and is determined by measuring the amount of Potassium Hydroxide in mg taken to neutralize the base reserve in 1 gram of oil (mgKOH/gm).
In the average engine oil, the starting TBN is usually around 6 to 9, however if we are looking to extended drain interval oils, we need to increase the initial TBN so we don't allow the reserve to be depleted before the oil is drained. In some oils, a starting TBN 15 is not un-common and a depletion level should never get below TBN 3, which is a signal to change the oil.
To me it looks as if the oil needs to be changed sooner to maintain the TBN above 3. I see you only have 5500 miles on the oil though. At least the TBN isn't zero.
I wonder how much of that is a product of the filter. I'm using a much better filter for this oil change and will be upgrading to an even better one the next time around.
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#10
there really is no benefit to the street driver in changing hi tech oils every 3000 or even 5500 miles
They should be designed to last about 8000 miles, since the car makers have made 7500 as the standard in change time..the oil last just past that...
Sure if you drive hard it can be done sooner for safety, but 3000 is for people still using a quickie change place with junk oil
I do mine at 6000-8000 with penz platinum on a K&N
They should be designed to last about 8000 miles, since the car makers have made 7500 as the standard in change time..the oil last just past that...
Sure if you drive hard it can be done sooner for safety, but 3000 is for people still using a quickie change place with junk oil
I do mine at 6000-8000 with penz platinum on a K&N
#11
there really is no benefit to the street driver in changing hi tech oils every 3000 or even 5500 miles
They should be designed to last about 8000 miles, since the car makers have made 7500 as the standard in change time..the oil last just past that...
Sure if you drive hard it can be done sooner for safety, but 3000 is for people still using a quickie change place with junk oil
I do mine at 6000-8000 with penz platinum on a K&N
They should be designed to last about 8000 miles, since the car makers have made 7500 as the standard in change time..the oil last just past that...
Sure if you drive hard it can be done sooner for safety, but 3000 is for people still using a quickie change place with junk oil
I do mine at 6000-8000 with penz platinum on a K&N
It's certainly hard to break away from the 3000 mile mindset oil changes. Over the last 5 or 6 years I upped it to 4500, and now on the TL I let the MID determine the change, although at times it's a painful experience to watch the miles grow. Last change was 7700 miles, and on the ''08 Kia Optima runaround car I'm doing it at 7000 miles.
Got to say though, that on our modified RX-7 Turbo, the changes come at 2500/3000 miles with Rotella 15-40. Just too much invested in the little rotary to take a chance.
#13
The 3000 mile myth was disproven by (I believe) Pennzoil's own study, although they didn't realize it. Using NYC taxis as an example to change your oil isn't the best idea.
Good info on the TBN, though.
Good info on the TBN, though.
#14
I follow the MID down to 10%, use a Purolator filter and synthetic (Q, M1 or Syntech) and have full confidence that the oil is not going to be the thing that kills my TL.
#15
I'm using the amsoil 0w-30 signature series that they rate for 35,000 miles.. I'm going to change it now and I put about 20,000 miles. And the reason I'm changing is because I Need to change the filter, and I just feel more comfortable if I just dump new oil at the same time. Its amazing how technology has advanced so much but people still hold on to the older values in oil thinking it hasn't advance at all.
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