So I took my TL-S in for inspection and it wouldn't pass emissions. No surprise, since I've been battling "limp mode" for a couple of years. My old garage (who recently shut down) I guess must have cleared the codes and passed it. (They were cool like that) My new mechanic won't do it. Well, unbeknownst to me, the car has been throwing codes like a pro quarterback. I'm screwed.

Here are the codes I have:

P2138 Acel Pedal Position Sensor
U0107 TC Module
P0498 Evap CVS Low Voltage
PO135 B! S1 Aer Fuel Heater
P0155 B2 S1 Air Fuel Heater
P0174 B2 Lean
P0171 B1 Lean

So, my question is, will limp mode throw all of these codes? I'm going to start with replacing the Accelerator Position Sensor this weekend.
Any suggestions as to what could possibly be going on? The estimate from the mechanic is well over $2,000. Thanks!

 

Limp mode is caused by the codes, not the other way around. Clearing codes just to pass emission works if there's one problem. With that many codes there's no way to cheat it anyways. Especially with circuit codes that are set right after turning the car on.

P2138 - most likely replace the sensor

U0107 - clear and see if it comes back.

P0498, P0135, and P0155, for evap canister vent solenoid, and heaters, are powered by the same circuit. Technically there should be two more heater codes if fuse or relay is bad, but let's start at the beginning.



Check the under-dash fuse #4 (15A) first, with the test light.

Of course it's possible that each of those valves/sensors is bad, especially since you've kept driving with check engine light on.

Without working oxygen sensors there's no point going after lean codes.

 

Thanks, as always, Peter...I wanted to comment about the check engine light and failure to fix one thing can easily lead to another, but you said it nicely...

If this has been going on for several years without any fix, $2000 to pay someone is cheap. Typical budget for a 3GTL of $100/MO would mean you're coming out ahead!
If it's an auto, change the trans fluid, too. Take care of your car and it will take care of you.

 

Thank you so much! You are a wealth of information.

 

A mechanic who clears lean codes to 'help pass emissions' doesn't sound like a good mechanic. Really should get the fuel pump checked. Or just keep driving it until it dies whatever.

 

$2000 ?!

Sounds like he's unloading the parts cannon.

 

Jeez! That sounds like a dentist I once went to who told me I had so many cavities I better start gargling with novocaine!
.

 

Hi again, I ordered the APS and I guess I should have ordered the entire assembly, instead of just the sensor? Here's a link to what I ordered.
Well, I can't get the rivets out and I'm wondering if I should return this and buy the entire assembly or does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the rivets out?

Thanks (again)!

 

Rivets can be drilled out. That's probably least destructive method of getting them off.
I don't know if that part will fit the car tho. Buying aftermarket parts, especially cheap ebay/amazon parts is just asking for trouble. I would trust used original part more than whatever this is.

 

I know in most cases it's "best" to buy OEM, but unless I've heard the 3rd-party parts are terrible, I usually try 3rd-party first to see if I can get away with it. Assume you just bought the sensor part of this assembly?


I bought the above precisely because I'd read that the OEM sensor couldn't be separated from the assembly without a Dremel or similar. Changing the whole assembly is one of the easiest repairs you can do, and even if I owned a Dremel, I'm certain I would have damaged or broken something along the way. Cleared my codes, got me out of limp mode, and has been fine for months since.

BTW, don't remember how many codes I had when this part crapped out, but there were at least one or two more than the P2138 and my VSA light came on. Just glad I was only 2-3 miles from home. Good luck!