jonboy10

I had 20 percent window tint done on my 04 in December of last year. I paid $220 to have all four doors and the rear window done.

Initial impressions were great. But then the windows began to have those long vertical scratches that go the length of the window. They initially didnt annoy me too bad but now they are very visible.

So I called the tint guy today, and he asked what kind of car it was. I told him and he responded, "well there is your problem!"

This annoyed me because that means that he definitely knew that our cars were prone to scratching.

My real problem with all this is that he NEVER mentioned moleskin before i had the initial job done. Not once did he offer it. I asked him why I was never informed of it, and he said "most people dont want to pay another $80 to have it done on all four doors."

I would have paid.

I asked him what it would cost to re-do all four doors, and add the moleskin. He said $220.
I was shocked because thats what I initially paid.

I told him after he quoted me $220, that i feel like there should be a way to do this for a lot cheaper. My main reason was that i was NEVER informed that our cars were prone to scratching. I got the car in late November of that year, had it tinted in December, and joined A-Zine in January. I found out about moleskin a few months after, and after the scratching began.

He then said he could re-do all four doors for $160. Which sounded better, but still at little steep to me. Keep in mind that I am a college student with little income...

I decided to just have the rears re-done for now, because it is the rear doors that are scratched the worst. He said $80 would be fine. I made the appointment.

My real questions to you all are, do you think that this is reasonable? Are there any other suggestions? Should I cancel the appointment?

Thanks, and ill post a pic of the scratching in a tid-bit.

jonboy10

Pictures

Passenger Rear





Driver Rear

94eg!

To me it looks like he just didn't clean the factory felt along the inner door panel when installing the tint. I have an 05 that was tinted in late 06 and still looks glossy smooth inside. I even drive with all 4 of my windows down a LOT. I once mentioned mole-skin to my tint guy and he just laughed. He told me the door panels have a felt liner already and they should not scratch. He said the scratching is either from cheap tint or dirty window felt. I've watched him do many cars and he has a special scrubby stick that he pokes down into the door to clean the oem felt. He also cleans the crap out of the side channels with a rag. He also only uses dish-soap and water in a spray bottle to soak everything.

Now I don't know if this is true or not, but this what I was told. I've personally had about 6 cars done by this guy and never noticed scratching. My friends and neighbors have more than that and never reported scratching either.

ez12a

holy crap that looks terrible. Good luck.

I dont know if you've ever used Yelp, but try looking him up and other tint shops in the area. At least in SoCal there are a few major shops that everyone goes to.

SiriusCity

Unfortunately, it looks like moleskin is as much a crap shoot as getting the scratches. Alot of moleskin users have to deal with glue residue on their windows or having it fail by folding over itself.

94eg!

I wouldn't spend more money on that same brand of tint. That is for sure.

SiriusCity

Btw, what brand tint is it?

jonboy10

He must have not cleaned it. I thought about that, but i guess its a little late.
He said he uses Suntek
You're telling me!! It is terrible. Ill try yelp.

I have red mixed reviews on moleskin, however it seems like its almost necessary to never get scratching. Or just a really good clean as 94eg! said...

Like I said above, i just found out he is using Suntek.

^^^


So what do you guys think about Suntek tint? I just searched it and it seems to be name brand... What brand do you all recommend?

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

my tint guy laughed at me about the moleskin and said its a waste. i told him about reading the horrid scratched tint stories on the TL. he still said he wouldn't use it , but i insisted he put the moleskin on the front windows since i rarely open the windows except for the drivers side. he looked at my windows molding/gasket (i forget what that thing is called)...he said for a 6 yr old car, these things look brand new. he cleaned them and put them back in place in the back. he cleaned the fronts, placed moleskin on them and done. so far...no problems with glue or adhesive residue.

i think if you go without moleskin...you do risk scratching if you open your windows a lot (the actual act of opening and then getting all the crap and debris trapped leading to scratches). IF you keep the channel clean, you will minimze your scratch risk.

my guy only uses madico char-cool tint...he does do ceramic, but on very few cars. his tint solution of choice, baby shampoo and water during the application process.

jonboy10

Thanks for the reply. I feel like I could clean the windows out, but then there is a risk of them getting dirty again. Of course i dont drive through mud, but i do have to park outside a lot. So debris from trees and such can definitely get in there.

I was searching again and i found this on ebay-
Im about to buy it and install it myself on all four windows. And then just have the tint guy re-do the rear windows, because those are the worst.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Ant...ht_1484wt_1297


Has anyone bought this before?

94eg!

I wish I knew what brand my ting guy uses. Though I don't know if I would recommend it. Though I don't have scratches, my CRX that sits outside every day in the vegas sun has gone very blurry in at least 3 windows.

BTW: I don't think parking outside has much to do with it. Dirty side channels will not scratch. And dust sitting outside the rolled-up window will not contaminate the inner felt (which is where your scratching is coming from).

I don't know. Anything is possible.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

the debris and dirt and crap comes from opening/closing windows and driving with them open. that's the stuff that'll get stuck and scratch.

we have too much stuff in the air around here (pollen, leaves, sap...) to really open windows in my area (at least for me-sigh, i miss cali). plus i like my interior nice and clean without all the extra dust and pollen.

i've seen those moleskin kits. not sure how good they are but...something is better than nothing.

94eg!

Like I said, I drive around with my windows down all the time. I live in dusty ass las vegas. Maybe its because I don't usually roll them all the way down.

mn2trance

I had moleskin installed by my tint guy in my '05 and there were still some scratches on it. However, it wasn't quite as bad as what you had posted. My tint was Formula 1 Pinnacle with a lifetime warranty. Sadly, I never put that to use.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

eh, idk. maybe it is the tint. or the installer. or perhaps both.

it wasn't worth the hassle. i had mine put the moleskin on the fronts at least. maybe all the sand and dust in LV is really fine.

DC2many

How do you clean the insides of the windows? My passenger side is developing scratches

Friesen

Nice find. I think I will buy this. It will have me money and looks easy enough to install.

jonboy10

Im just going to give him the $80 to re-do the rears with moleskin. And maybe ask if he can add moleskin to the front windows too, without re-doing the tint.

Im just annoyed that he never said anything to me about it before the car was tinted.

Friesen

Do you have a clothes steamer? You can remove tint with it. I did and it is real easy. Maybe save you some money.

GatorPhinatics08TL

My question is why you paid so much for tints? I know nothing about tints, but I paid $89 a year ago and I have had 0 problems thus far. I would never pay over $100, and I have life time warranty. Again I dont know anything about tints or brands nor have I heard of moleskin but that is a lot to pay for tints.

jonboy10

That may not be a bad idea... I dont have one, but im sure there is someone i know who does.

Did it leave behind any sticky residue? And how long was the tint on before you removed it?

I thought it was a pretty good price. No one really quoted me for any less than that, maybe 10 dollars, but i wanted it done at this shop because i go there for audio as well.
Maybe you just got lucky?

Friesen

Location. My guess is that Miami (due to sun/heat) has more vehicles wanting/needing tint. Law of Demand. Also, I assume Miami has a ton of tint shops which creates price wars.

Friesen

It had been on there for about 4 years. As long as you heat it/steam it up enough, no residue is left. It should come off in big pieces. I did my coupe in about 1 hr.

jonboy10

Ill have to give that a shot. I think he said that its about 20 (i know i know, expensive) to remove tint. Ill try to do that between now and my appointment next week. Itll look like hell... so maybe ill do it the day before.

I wonder what a cop would think seeing 20 percent front, and nothing on the rears.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Get a new tint guy man. Any legit and proper tinter would've never did such a hack job. If I were you .. I would ditch this guy and just get it redone somewhere else that knows what they are doing.

I know money is tight, so I would go back to this guy and have him agree to remove the tint for free for his fuck up and as fair compensation. And then go somewhere that specializes in 3M tint and get it done properly. This way the other place doesn't charge you another $100 bux for removing tint. That's my advice.

memyselfandhigh

This tint guy you used is not a professional, if he was then he would have done his job like one. The $160 you said he want's can be spent at a real shop where the job can be done right. I guess he offered no warranty either since you'll have to repay. I would recommend going else where. Also a quick tip for those who live in place's that get cold and you have to use the defrost on the rear window. Warm your car up and let the cabin warm up also before putting on your defrost, this will prevent the tint from bubbling up over time on the defrost line...

jonboy10

I could try going that route. And i honestly think that that would be ideal. But I doubt he would remove it for free, because he seems to be so stingy about money. Ill call around later today though and get some estimates.

I might just leave the front windows how they are, try to have him remove the rear, and have someone else do the rear. And clean the front tracks out myself.

I should have asked what his warranty was before...

Tru3VoL

Man that sucks. I am getting my tints done next week and am having trouble even finding a shop who knows what moleskin is... My windows (07 type S) do have felt already on the inside, I know this because a tiny piece on the front driver side is exposed when the window is rolled up. Its barely visible and I cant reach it because its at the very front corner of the weather strip. I'm hoping just to have him fix the felt liner and make sure it is secure then I'm going 20% Formula 1 Pinnacle or 20% Llumar CTX all around. Good luck getting it fixed and I hope I don't end up in the same boat.

Tru3VoL

I will be paying around $200, looks like if I want ceramic that gonna be the going rate even after a little negotiation.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Guys ... remember most tinters can apply tint. The price difference comes down to the quality of tint the installer uses and also his warranty. Most places that charge more will have better warranty and also better quality tint.

I only use 3M and make sure you guys are aware that there are different lines of 3M so educate yourselves before getting quotes. 3M also has their shittly line to compete with price so don't just let the installer tell you he uses 3M. I had an extensive post in another thread ... if I can find it... I'll copy and paste it.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

I would raise hell. Thats unacceptable. I would tip him no more than 20 bux if he does it without throwing a big shit fit.

Also found the other thread. Swear the in forum searching is garbage. I find google works better sometimes to find these threads... anyways heres a link to that thread and also what I posted:

"However for people who don't know much don't let a place just quote you a price saying they use 3M tint because 3M makes many different lines from lower grade fx series to the highest grade which is Crystalline. The difference between the tints is not how it looks it's how much heat rejection you get and the associated warranty.

The 3M tint you all should be aiming for is in the following order:

1. 3M Crystalline (however doesn't come less than 40%)
2. 3M Color Stable (however no 15% tints)
3. 3M FX-HP (lower grade and a little less heat rejection)

Optimum would be to get 3M color stable on the sides and Crystalline tint on the front windshield. Remember there's 2 way to achieve heat rejection, 1. Dark tint 2. Quality Tint. The Crystalline 50% tint will reject just as much as some cars with 15% all around!! About 56%!!

All 3 of those tints are non metallic and will not interfere with the electronics in the car. The price will vary though depending on what you choose. If you tell me your interior color I can recommend the perfect setup for your taste. Ive perfected this to a science with the amount of tints I've done and redone. "

http://atl.acurazine.com/forums/show...php?p=13199341

Friesen

I will be using: Solar Guard Supreme Series Tint


Specs Here !
http://www.solargard.com/us/Auto/Supreme

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

What percentage tints are you using and how much are you paying if you dont mind me asking you? Solar guard is a good company use to have it on another vehicle.

Friesen

I am getting Supreme 28. He quoted $140 and im getting the $30 moleskin kit.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

You should look into the 3M FX Premium Tint in a 25 which is more or less the same as your Supreme 28 except 41% of Heat Rejection vs. 33% Heat Rejection the solar guard can only give. Price should be the same.

When it comes to Tints ... Heat Rejection is everything. Every 1% of Heat Rejection makes a Huge difference ... so from 33% to 41% you will definitely notice that difference. This is why 3M leads the market. Just a suggestion.

And here's a link so you can look for yourself:

http://3mcartints.co.nz/files/3MAuto...-FXPremium.pdf

chairguru22

The place that I got tint did a fantastic job (PA). They actually recommended NOT getting moleskin as any dirt or debris that's stuck in it will still scratch the tint. What they did was take an exacto knife and sliced off part of the factory window bumpers or whatever you want to call it. That is the actual piece that comes in contact with your window/tint and causes the scratching. I've had my tint for nearly 3 years now without any issues at all.

I would look into just trimming off the piece and save yourself the money and future headache.

Friesen

I talked to a 3M installer and her suggested 3M CS 35% Film, but the 35% looks too light. He quoted $229.99 and said he has never installed moleskin and has done a ton of Honda/Acura. Never had anyone come back, except for the '05+ Mustangs.

Might consider the 3M CS 20%

Pic on grey car:
http://www.starautoaccessories.com/windowtintcs20_4.jpg


Info:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...omotive_Films/


or,

Look into Solar Gard HP Sepreme Series in a 22 that Rejects 48% or 30 that Rejects 46%.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Color Stable is one of their best tints. That's what I have on my other car the CS 20 and its great. Only reason I recommended the FX-HP for you is for comparable pricing.

There are 3 ways for a tint film to reject heat. One is to use metal in the tint.. ... second is to make the tint darker and third is to use better particles in the tint, with this last option resulting in the most expensive film. Look into the 3M crystalline line, they can get you more heat rejection from their 50% tint than some companies with limo tint!!

So this is how I look at it. If I know I want 20's which are dark ... why pay a premium for a tint that reduces heat by using better particles when I can achieve that already naturally with the darkness of the film I'm chosing.. you get me?

However I tint my front windshield as well in all my cars. And for that I tint them about 50 to 55% (very light) and so if I used the same FX-HP my heat rejection wouldn't be that great since the primary way that tint (FX-HP) rejects heat is based on darkness. Hence I sprung for the Crystalline on my front windshield and have the same heat rejection with my 50% as my 15% on my side windows.

Just to give you a comparison on price. My entire car tinted with FX-HP would be $175 but The Front Windshield with Crystalline alone cost me $175 alone!

Don't let the installer sell you the CS just cuz they say its better. Half the time they don't even know the heat rejection qualities in the different tints they sell. They aren't lying when they say its better but in all honesty its not money well spent. Only reason Id want to use CS and Crystalline lines is if I wanted to use lighter tint shades and not sacrifice heat rejection OR if I got some sort of deal. Other than that no reason. Hope all that makes sense.

Friesen

Honestly, I think I am just going to go with Solar Gard Supreme 28 and get the DIY Moleskin kit. $170 spent and I like the color of the Supreme 28. I had it on my Pathfinder.

The closest 3M tint installer is 3hrs away. The Solar Gard guy is local and real nice.

Thanks for all the tint knowledge. I have learned a lot. Really!

Friesen

PS: Sorry OP for the thread jack !!!!!!!!!!!